Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
A beloved Southern heirloom with a loyal following, Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is celebrated for its sweet, complex flavor and striking emerald-green flesh. Originating from Ruby Arnold of Greenville, Tennessee, this variety has been passed down for generations and remains one of the most famous green-when-ripe beefsteaks in American gardens.
Fruits are large and slightly flattened, averaging 10–16 ounces, though some exceed one pound under rich growing conditions. The skin ripens to a greenish-yellow hue with amber blushes, while the flesh remains vivid green and marbled with gold. The flavor is exceptionally rich—sweet, tropical, and slightly spicy, often described as one of the best-tasting heirlooms ever bred.
Plants are indeterminate, vigorous, and productive, continuing to bear fruit throughout the season. Maturity occurs around 80–85 days from transplant, making it a mid-to-late season variety. Despite its delicate texture, the fruit resists cracking better than many green heirlooms and performs well in warm climates with steady moisture.
Perfect for fresh slicing, caprese salads, or artisan market displays, Aunt Ruby’s German Green delivers unforgettable color and flavor contrast. Its vibrant flesh and balanced sweetness elevate both home gardens and farmstand offerings, embodying the enduring spirit of Appalachian seedkeeping and flavor preservation.
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and soil type. Deep, consistent watering supports strong roots and reduces cracking in these large fruits.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water at the base and avoid wetting foliage, which can trigger blight.
Mulch heavily with 2–3 inches of straw, leaf mold, or compost once the soil warms to stabilize moisture and soil temperature.
During ripening, slightly reduce watering to intensify sweetness—but never allow plants to wilt, as stress causes uneven ripening and blossom end rot.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 inches of soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth using a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) or organic equivalent.
Once flowers appear, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to promote healthy fruiting and reduce excess leaf growth.
Supplement mid-season with seaweed extract or compost tea to sustain vigor through continuous fruiting.
Avoid over-fertilization—it produces lush foliage but fewer, softer fruits.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting areas weed-free to reduce nutrient competition and improve air circulation.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch after the soil warms to regulate moisture and minimize disease spread from soil splash.
Use organic mulch materials (straw, shredded leaves, or compost). Plastic mulch may be used early to heat spring soil, then replaced with organic matter by midsummer.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sun daily. The plants tolerate heat but benefit from light afternoon shade during extended hot spells (above 95°F / 35°C).
Use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms during extreme heat.
Ensure airflow between plants to lower humidity and reduce fungal risk.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
Support with sturdy stakes, cages, or trellises installed at planting time—this variety produces heavy clusters that can easily bend or break unsupported vines.
Tie vines loosely with soft twine or fabric ties to allow stem movement without injury.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, marigold, onion, garlic, carrots, and parsley—these help deter aphids, nematodes, and whiteflies.
Avoid: Fennel and potatoes, which attract pests and compete for soil nutrients.
Tip: Interplant with pollinator-friendly herbs like dill, coriander, and borage to attract bees and improve fruit set naturally.
Container Growing
Aunt Ruby’s can thrive in large containers of 20+ gallons with rich, compost-enriched potting mix.
Ensure excellent drainage and water daily during hot weather—containers dry faster than ground soil.
Feed with diluted compost tea or seaweed extract every two weeks, as nutrients leach quickly from pots.
Shade container sides during the hottest months to prevent root overheating.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels to start earlier in spring and extend harvests into late autumn.
In cooler climates, black plastic mulch can warm the soil in spring.
In mild zones, plants may continue producing well into early frost if protected from night chills.
Additional Tips – Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest when fruits turn from solid green to a slightly yellow-green hue with light amber blush near the blossom end. The fruit should yield gently to pressure and develop a translucent tone rather than opaque green. Overripe fruits become soft and lose flavor complexity.
Technique:
Use pruning shears or scissors to clip fruit cleanly from the vine, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling, which can tear the vine and damage nearby fruit.
Frequency:
Check every 2–3 days once ripening begins. Regular harvesting prevents overripening and encourages continued flowering.
Maturity Signs:
Slight color shift to yellow-green or amber blush, slight give to touch, and a warm, fragrant aroma. The interior should appear juicy and marbled with gold when cut.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Sweet, tropical, and full-bodied with notes reminiscent of melon and lime. Among green-when-ripe varieties, Aunt Ruby’s is considered one of the richest and most complex in flavor.
Excellent for fresh slicing, salads, or topping sandwiches with its striking color and flavor balance.
Nutritional Value:
High in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene, though the green flesh also contains chlorophyll-derived antioxidants unique to green tomatoes.
Flavor Tip:
Slight moisture reduction during ripening enhances sweetness. Avoid excessive nitrogen or overwatering—both dilute flavor and texture.
Handling & Post-Harvest Care
Handle gently to prevent bruising and cracking. Green tomatoes bruise easily due to thinner skin and juicier interiors.
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight.
Do not refrigerate unless fully ripe—cold conditions dull both color and flavor.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Use:
Best consumed within 3–5 days after harvest. The unique color and texture make it ideal for visual appeal in fresh dishes.
Canning:
While not commonly canned alone due to color, it can be mixed with red or yellow varieties for multi-color relishes or chutneys. Always add acid (lemon juice or citric acid) per canning guidelines.
Freezing:
Slice, core, or dice and freeze on trays before bagging for use in soups or salsas. Texture softens after thawing but flavor holds well.
Pickling & Relish:
Unripe or firm fruit can be sliced and pickled, a Southern-style use that highlights its tangy, mild sweetness.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Perfect for salads, sandwiches, salsas, or as a colorful garnish.
Cooked:
Adds brightness to roasted vegetable blends and sauces without overwhelming acidity.
Pairings:
Pairs well with mozzarella, basil, avocado, red onion, olive oil, sea salt, and lemon. Also excellent with grilled fish or chicken.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate vines reach 6–7 feet. Provide robust staking or trellising.
Pruning:
Remove lower leaves up to the first flower cluster to reduce soil splash. Lightly prune upper suckers for airflow, but retain some foliage for shade—green fruit is prone to sunscald.
Soil Care:
Mulch heavily to maintain moisture. Add compost tea or seaweed extract midseason for disease resistance and vigor.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 20 gallons for strong growth.
Drainage:
Essential—green beefsteaks are highly sensitive to root stress.
Watering Rhythm:
Deeply water when the top inch of soil dries. Avoid alternating drought and flooding; this variety cracks easily under sudden moisture change.
Heat Protection:
Shade container sides during extreme heat to protect root systems.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, marigold, garlic, onion, and carrots for pest control.
Trap Crops:
Nasturtium or radish can help divert flea beetles and aphids.
Pollination Tip:
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but bees improve fruit uniformity. Gently shake or tap flower clusters midday for better pollination indoors or in calm weather.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose true-to-type, healthy fruits from disease-free plants. Avoid saving seed from early or cracked fruits.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with water.
Allow to ferment 2–3 days, stirring daily until a thin film forms.
Rinse thoroughly and separate viable seeds (those that sink).
Spread to dry for 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Storage:
Store in airtight jars with desiccant packs in a cool, dark place.
Viability:
4–6 years under proper storage conditions.
Common Pests & Problems – Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insect Pests
Tomato Hornworm:
Large green caterpillars that strip foliage and chew through fruit. Handpick in early morning or dusk when visible. Encourage beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) and birds to naturally suppress populations. Companion plant basil or marigolds to deter egg-laying.
Aphids:
Small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and leaf undersides. Their feeding causes leaf curling and stunted shoots. Spray with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or a firm stream of water every few days until populations drop. Introduce ladybugs or lacewings for ongoing control.
Whiteflies:
Common in warm, humid areas. They cause yellowing and leaf drop. Use yellow sticky traps, improve airflow, and apply horticultural oil to leaf undersides weekly for control. Avoid nitrogen overuse, which increases susceptibility.
Spider Mites:
These tiny pests thrive in hot, dry conditions, causing stippled, pale leaves. Increase humidity by lightly misting foliage early in the morning, apply neem or sulfur dust, and maintain consistent moisture.
Cutworms:
These soil-dwelling larvae chew young stems at the base. Protect transplants with paper collars or rings of diatomaceous earth, and remove nearby weeds or mulch layers that hide larvae.
Diseases & Fungal Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
A common issue in humid regions. Look for dark, target-like spots on lower leaves. Prune infected leaves immediately and dispose of them—don’t compost. Apply copper-based fungicide or compost tea preventively and rotate crops yearly.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Tiny brown-black specks appear on lower leaves in wet conditions. Remove infected foliage and mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply biofungicides (Bacillus subtilis) for organic management.
Fusarium Wilt and Verticillium Wilt:
Soilborne pathogens that cause wilting, yellowing, and one-sided plant decline. Aunt Ruby’s German Green has no genetic resistance, so rely on prevention—rotate crops for 3–4 years, sterilize tools, and maintain rich, microbe-active soil. Avoid planting near peppers, eggplant, or potatoes.
Anthracnose (Fruit Rot):
Causes small, sunken spots on ripe fruit, often after rain. Harvest promptly, avoid fruit-to-soil contact, and apply calcium-rich compost or seaweed foliar sprays for prevention.
Cracking & Splitting:
Because Aunt Ruby’s produces large, juicy fruits, irregular watering or heavy rainfall can cause cracking. Use consistent irrigation and 2–3 inches of mulch to maintain even soil moisture. Pick fruits as they begin to blush yellow to avoid over-ripening cracks.
Blossom End Rot:
Results from calcium uptake issues, often linked to inconsistent watering. Apply calcium supplements or bone meal before planting and maintain steady moisture throughout the season. Crushed eggshells add calcium but release it slowly—use them early for long-term benefit.
Environmental & Physiological Stress
Heat Stress:
While tolerant of warm climates, Aunt Ruby’s may experience flower drop during extended heat above 95°F (35°C). Provide light shade cloth (30–40%) and maintain even watering to encourage fruit set.
Sunscald:
The light-green fruit color can show pale patches when exposed to direct sun after heavy pruning. Avoid removing too much foliage; allow partial canopy shade to protect developing fruit.
Pollination Problems:
Green-when-ripe varieties often have thicker petals, which can reduce pollination under humidity extremes. Gently tap flower clusters midday or encourage bees with nearby blooms like borage and dill.
Organic Preventive Measures
Rotate Solanaceae crops every 3–4 years.
Apply compost or microbial inoculants (mycorrhizae, Trichoderma) at planting.
Keep leaves dry with drip irrigation or soaker hoses.
Mulch early to regulate soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Feed moderately—avoid excess nitrogen to prevent lush foliage and weak fruit skins.
Maintain biodiversity: interplant basil, marigold, or garlic for natural pest deterrence.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What makes Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato unique?
This heirloom produces large, green-when-ripe beefsteak fruits with exceptional sweetness and tropical undertones. It offers the classic old-fashioned tomato richness but with vivid emerald-green flesh and amber blushing when fully ripe—a distinct visual and flavor experience compared to red or pink slicers.
Q: Where did this variety originate?
It was first grown and shared by Ruby Arnold of Greenville, Tennessee, whose family had preserved the seed through generations. Her name—“Aunt Ruby”—became attached to the tomato when she began sharing it locally in the mid-20th century.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically mature in 80–85 days from transplanting. The variety is mid-to-late season, producing steadily once plants begin fruiting and continuing until frost.
Q: How do I know when green tomatoes are ripe?
Ripe fruits turn yellow-green with a soft amber blush at the base, and the flesh slightly yields to pressure. The interior becomes translucent green with a warm, golden tint. Overripe fruits will begin to soften and show more pronounced yellowing.
Q: How large do the plants and fruits get?
Plants are indeterminate, often reaching 6–7 feet tall with proper support. Fruits average 10–16 ounces, with some exceeding a pound under ideal fertility and moisture.
Q: Does it need staking or cages?
Yes. Aunt Ruby’s produces heavy fruit clusters that can snap untrained vines. Use strong stakes, cages, or trellis systems early in the season to prevent lodging or stem breakage.
Q: Is it disease resistant?
Like many heirlooms, it has no formal disease resistance (no VF coding) but performs well in balanced organic soils with good drainage and airflow. Prevent fungal pressure with crop rotation, mulching, and consistent moisture.
Q: Does it crack easily?
It’s less prone to cracking than some green-when-ripe types but still benefits from consistent watering and mulching. Avoid sudden soakings after dry periods to prevent radial splits.
Q: What soil and sunlight conditions does it prefer?
Grow in rich, loamy, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.8, in full sun (6–8 hours daily). Incorporate compost or aged manure before planting and maintain deep mulch once soil warms.
Q: Can it grow in containers?
Yes—use a 20-gallon or larger container with sturdy vertical support. Container-grown plants may require daily watering during peak summer heat.
Q: How often should I water?
Provide about 1–1½ inches per week. Deep, infrequent watering encourages strong roots and helps prevent fruit cracking or blossom end rot.
Q: Is it good for canning or just fresh eating?
It excels as a fresh slicer, though it can be used in sauces, salsas, and relishes for color contrast. For canning, mix with red or pink tomatoes to maintain acidity and visual appeal.
Q: Why aren’t my fruits ripening evenly?
Green-when-ripe tomatoes ripen differently—look for subtle color shifts from deep green to yellow-green with a translucent tone, not red. Temperature extremes above 90°F (32°C) can delay ripening; harvest slightly early and finish indoors if needed.
Q: Can I save seeds from Aunt Ruby’s German Green?
Yes. It’s an open-pollinated heirloom. Save seed from the best, true-to-type fruits. Ferment seeds 2–3 days in water, rinse, and dry for 7–10 days. Store airtight in a cool, dark space for 4–6 years of viability.
Q: Is this tomato suitable for hot or humid regions?
Yes. While bred in Tennessee’s humid climate, it performs best with steady moisture, airflow, and moderate afternoon shade in very hot regions. Heat tolerance is moderate, and fruit quality remains excellent under typical Southern conditions.
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Aunt Ruby's German Green Beefsteak
$200 USD
$300
Unit price /
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History & Culture – Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
The tomato’s lineage begins in the Andean highlands of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Through careful cultivation and trade, the fruit traveled northward into Mesoamerica, where the Maya, Nahua, and other Indigenous farmers refined it into the early Solanum lycopersicum varieties recognizable today. These tomatoes became integral to the milpa system—the traditional triad of maize, beans, and squash—forming one of the most enduring models of ecological agriculture in human history.
Centuries later, European contact spread the tomato across continents and back again to North America through settler networks. By the mid-1800s, American home gardeners and small farmers had developed hundreds of regional selections, often guided by family lineages rather than institutional breeding.
Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato emerges from this living tradition of family stewardship. The variety was preserved and shared by Ruby Arnold of Greenville, Tennessee, who maintained the line for decades before sharing it more widely in the late 20th century. The “German” in its name reflects her family’s Appalachian German-American heritage, part of a cultural mosaic that valued seed preservation, flavor, and adaptability over uniformity.
Unlike modern hybrids, Aunt Ruby’s was never engineered for shipping or shelf life—it was grown for flavor, generosity, and kitchen use. Its unusual green-when-ripe fruit made it stand out among red and pink tomatoes, offering home gardeners something distinct yet deeply traditional.
This heirloom reflects the heart of Southern Appalachian seed culture—plants selected for taste, resilience, and visual beauty. Its endurance speaks not only to its exceptional flavor but also to the generations of seedkeepers who valued it enough to replant, save, and share each year.
Today, Aunt Ruby’s German Green remains one of the most recognized green beefsteak heirlooms in the world. It represents both the flavor depth of old Appalachian gardens and the global journey of a crop first shaped by Indigenous innovation and later refined through local family stewardship.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Aunt Ruby's German Green Beefsteak
$200 USD
$300
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
A beloved Southern heirloom with a loyal following, Aunt Ruby’s German Green Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is celebrated for its sweet, complex flavor and striking emerald-green flesh. Originating from Ruby Arnold of Greenville, Tennessee, this variety has been passed down for generations and remains one of the most famous green-when-ripe beefsteaks in American gardens.
Fruits are large and slightly flattened, averaging 10–16 ounces, though some exceed one pound under rich growing conditions. The skin ripens to a greenish-yellow hue with amber blushes, while the flesh remains vivid green and marbled with gold. The flavor is exceptionally rich—sweet, tropical, and slightly spicy, often described as one of the best-tasting heirlooms ever bred.
Plants are indeterminate, vigorous, and productive, continuing to bear fruit throughout the season. Maturity occurs around 80–85 days from transplant, making it a mid-to-late season variety. Despite its delicate texture, the fruit resists cracking better than many green heirlooms and performs well in warm climates with steady moisture.
Perfect for fresh slicing, caprese salads, or artisan market displays, Aunt Ruby’s German Green delivers unforgettable color and flavor contrast. Its vibrant flesh and balanced sweetness elevate both home gardens and farmstand offerings, embodying the enduring spirit of Appalachian seedkeeping and flavor preservation.
