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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Chadwick Cherry
Tomato lovers rejoice—Chadwick Cherry bursts with vine-ripened sweetness, perfect for sun-kissed salads and garden-fresh snacking.
Alliance of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM56
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Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Discover the vibrant charm of Chadwick Cherry Tomato Seeds, an indeterminate variety renowned for its vigorous growth and prolific yield. These organic seeds promise a cascade of small, round fruits that ripen to a brilliant red, offering a visual delight in your garden. Typically reaching a height of 6 to 8 feet, these plants thrive with support, producing clusters of succulent tomatoes throughout the growing season.
With a maturity period of approximately 70 days, Chadwick Cherry tomatoes are celebrated for their sweet, tangy flavor, making them a versatile favorite in the kitchen. Their bite-sized nature is perfect for fresh salads, garnishes, or simply as a snack straight from the vine. The fruits are firm yet juicy, ensuring a delightful burst of taste with every bite.
Ideal for both novice and seasoned gardeners, these seeds offer a rewarding cultivation experience. Whether grown in garden beds or containers, Chadwick Cherry tomatoes are resilient and productive, ensuring a bountiful harvest. Relish the ease of growing organic produce with these robust seeds, and enjoy the fresh, homegrown flavor that defines this classic tomato variety.
$200 USD
$325
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Cage
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
70-79 Days
(from transplant)
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Chadwick Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, increasing slightly during hot or fruit-heavy periods.
Water deeply and evenly to promote strong roots and reduce splitting, especially during peak production.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent moisture while keeping foliage dry to minimize fungal diseases.
Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil has warmed to regulate temperature and moisture.
Tip: Consistent watering supports Chadwick’s continuous flowering and ensures sweet, crack-resistant fruit.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil to enhance nutrient balance and microbial activity.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to support fruiting and flavor development.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to maintain cell strength and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid excessive nitrogen—it produces heavy vine growth and delays fruit ripening.
Tip: Moderate fertility promotes steady yields and intensifies the rich, tangy-sweet flavor Chadwick is known for.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the growing area weed-free to reduce nutrient competition and pest hiding places.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, compost, or shredded bark) to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Weed gently near roots to avoid damaging shallow feeder systems.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal sweetness and steady production.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During extreme heat (>95°F / 35°C), provide 30–40% shade cloth to protect flowers and reduce sunscald.
Ensure good airflow between plants to reduce humidity and prevent fungal diseases like septoria or blight.
Tip: Full sun enhances Chadwick’s sugar accumulation, while moderate heat protection keeps fruit skins smooth and crack-free.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As a vigorous indeterminate variety, Chadwick Cherry requires sturdy cages, trellises, or stakes for support.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly to improve airflow and accessibility.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and reduce disease risk.
Tip: Consistent pruning keeps the canopy airy and extends the harvest season by preventing disease buildup.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial predators: Interplant with small-flowered herbs like dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitoid wasps that control aphids and whiteflies.
Enhance pollination: Include flowering plants such as calendula, cosmos, or native asters to support pollinator activity through the season.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens every 2–3 years to minimize soilborne diseases. Avoid replanting after other nightshades (peppers, potatoes, or eggplants).
Soil management: Maintain mulch or cover crops between plantings to boost beneficial soil microbe populations.
Tip: Research confirms diverse ecological plantings and rotation cycles yield better pest control and higher productivity than isolated monocultures.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with sturdy cage or trellis support.
Use high-quality organic potting soil enriched with compost and perlite for drainage and aeration.
Monitor moisture daily—Chadwick’s vigorous growth demands steady hydration.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer to maintain fertility.
Tip: Mulching container surfaces keeps soil moisture stable and supports consistent fruiting during hot months.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect young transplants and retain heat.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before planting in cooler regions.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to direct energy toward ripening existing fruits.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Chadwick Cherry continues ripening well after harvest—keep in indirect light for best post-harvest sweetness.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, increasing slightly during hot or fruit-heavy periods.
Water deeply and evenly to promote strong roots and reduce splitting, especially during peak production.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent moisture while keeping foliage dry to minimize fungal diseases.
Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil has warmed to regulate temperature and moisture.
Tip: Consistent watering supports Chadwick’s continuous flowering and ensures sweet, crack-resistant fruit.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil to enhance nutrient balance and microbial activity.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to support fruiting and flavor development.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to maintain cell strength and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid excessive nitrogen—it produces heavy vine growth and delays fruit ripening.
Tip: Moderate fertility promotes steady yields and intensifies the rich, tangy-sweet flavor Chadwick is known for.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the growing area weed-free to reduce nutrient competition and pest hiding places.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, compost, or shredded bark) to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Weed gently near roots to avoid damaging shallow feeder systems.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal sweetness and steady production.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During extreme heat (>95°F / 35°C), provide 30–40% shade cloth to protect flowers and reduce sunscald.
Ensure good airflow between plants to reduce humidity and prevent fungal diseases like septoria or blight.
Tip: Full sun enhances Chadwick’s sugar accumulation, while moderate heat protection keeps fruit skins smooth and crack-free.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As a vigorous indeterminate variety, Chadwick Cherry requires sturdy cages, trellises, or stakes for support.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly to improve airflow and accessibility.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and reduce disease risk.
Tip: Consistent pruning keeps the canopy airy and extends the harvest season by preventing disease buildup.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial predators: Interplant with small-flowered herbs like dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitoid wasps that control aphids and whiteflies.
Enhance pollination: Include flowering plants such as calendula, cosmos, or native asters to support pollinator activity through the season.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens every 2–3 years to minimize soilborne diseases. Avoid replanting after other nightshades (peppers, potatoes, or eggplants).
Soil management: Maintain mulch or cover crops between plantings to boost beneficial soil microbe populations.
Tip: Research confirms diverse ecological plantings and rotation cycles yield better pest control and higher productivity than isolated monocultures.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with sturdy cage or trellis support.
Use high-quality organic potting soil enriched with compost and perlite for drainage and aeration.
Monitor moisture daily—Chadwick’s vigorous growth demands steady hydration.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer to maintain fertility.
Tip: Mulching container surfaces keeps soil moisture stable and supports consistent fruiting during hot months.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect young transplants and retain heat.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before planting in cooler regions.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to direct energy toward ripening existing fruits.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Chadwick Cherry continues ripening well after harvest—keep in indirect light for best post-harvest sweetness.
Additional Tips — Chadwick Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits turn a deep, glossy red and detach easily from the truss with a gentle twist or light snip. Each fruit averages 1 inch in diameter, forming abundant clusters of 8–12.
Use small pruning shears or scissors to harvest entire clusters to prevent skin tearing and preserve the natural bloom. Pick every two to three days during peak ripening—regular harvesting stimulates continuous flowering and fruit set.
Avoid collecting fruit immediately after rain or irrigation, as excess surface moisture can reduce sweetness and promote cracking. Slightly underripe fruits will finish coloring at room temperature while retaining full flavor.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Chadwick Cherry is prized for its bright, balanced flavor—sweet yet tangy, with the old-fashioned depth characteristic of early organic selections. Its flesh is juicy but firm, giving a satisfying bite and a clean finish.
Ideal for fresh eating, salads, and appetizers, it holds its shape well when tossed or marinated. When roasted or sun-dried, the sugars intensify into a concentrated sweetness, producing a flavor reminiscent of classic Italian cherry types.
Its perfect balance of sugar and acidity also makes it excellent for light sauces, salsas, and artisan bruschetta—proof of its enduring reputation among heirloom growers and chefs alike.
Handling & Storage:
Store freshly picked fruit at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Refrigeration should be avoided, as it diminishes aroma and texture.
Lay fruits in a single layer on soft cloth or paper-lined trays to prevent bruising. Under these conditions, Chadwick Cherry keeps its peak quality for 5–7 days.
For markets or transport, harvest when 80–90 % colored and firm; the fruit will finish ripening evenly without losing luster or sweetness.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate vine, Chadwick Cherry requires strong support for best productivity and fruit quality. Provide trellises or tall cages (6–8 ft) and tie vines regularly with soft twine to prevent splitting under cluster weight.
Remove the lower leaves once established to reduce soil splash and disease risk. Pinch small suckers below the first flower cluster to promote manageable growth and early yield.
Moderate pruning encourages airflow and balanced canopy cover, preventing sunscald while maintaining fruit sweetness.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal sugar production and flavor concentration. In hot climates, light afternoon shade preserves fruit firmness.
Water deeply once or twice per week, maintaining steady soil moisture. Irregular watering may cause cracking or inconsistent ripening.
Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil warms to retain moisture and regulate temperature. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the roots while keeping foliage dry.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from robust, disease-free plants producing uniform red fruit with balanced flavor and high yield. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine to ensure mature seed formation.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to dissolve the gelatinous coating. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Chadwick Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. As an open-pollinated variety, it will remain true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomatoes.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Thriving in rich, well-drained loam with ample organic matter, Chadwick Cherry performs best in biologically active soil. Its abundant, open flowers attract bumblebees and native pollinators that ensure consistent fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with beneficial herbs such as basil, dill, and alyssum to draw pollinators and predatory insects while deterring aphids and whiteflies. Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or greens to maintain soil fertility and prevent pathogen buildup.
Provide 24–30 inches spacing between plants for healthy airflow and balanced light exposure. Avoid close proximity to potatoes or peppers, which share similar pest pressures.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Chadwick Cherry’s classic red color and vibrant flavor make it indispensable in any garden kitchen. Serve halved with olive oil, sea salt, and basil for timeless simplicity, or roast with garlic and herbs for a caramelized burst of sweetness.
Pairs beautifully with creamy cheeses, citrus vinaigrettes, and grilled vegetables. Its bright acidity balances rich dishes such as pasta or roasted meats.
In market displays, its glossy red clusters draw the eye—an emblem of heirloom abundance and timeless taste, honoring the early organic movement that made Chadwick Cherry a garden legend.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits turn a deep, glossy red and detach easily from the truss with a gentle twist or light snip. Each fruit averages 1 inch in diameter, forming abundant clusters of 8–12.
Use small pruning shears or scissors to harvest entire clusters to prevent skin tearing and preserve the natural bloom. Pick every two to three days during peak ripening—regular harvesting stimulates continuous flowering and fruit set.
Avoid collecting fruit immediately after rain or irrigation, as excess surface moisture can reduce sweetness and promote cracking. Slightly underripe fruits will finish coloring at room temperature while retaining full flavor.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Chadwick Cherry is prized for its bright, balanced flavor—sweet yet tangy, with the old-fashioned depth characteristic of early organic selections. Its flesh is juicy but firm, giving a satisfying bite and a clean finish.
Ideal for fresh eating, salads, and appetizers, it holds its shape well when tossed or marinated. When roasted or sun-dried, the sugars intensify into a concentrated sweetness, producing a flavor reminiscent of classic Italian cherry types.
Its perfect balance of sugar and acidity also makes it excellent for light sauces, salsas, and artisan bruschetta—proof of its enduring reputation among heirloom growers and chefs alike.
Handling & Storage:
Store freshly picked fruit at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Refrigeration should be avoided, as it diminishes aroma and texture.
Lay fruits in a single layer on soft cloth or paper-lined trays to prevent bruising. Under these conditions, Chadwick Cherry keeps its peak quality for 5–7 days.
For markets or transport, harvest when 80–90 % colored and firm; the fruit will finish ripening evenly without losing luster or sweetness.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate vine, Chadwick Cherry requires strong support for best productivity and fruit quality. Provide trellises or tall cages (6–8 ft) and tie vines regularly with soft twine to prevent splitting under cluster weight.
Remove the lower leaves once established to reduce soil splash and disease risk. Pinch small suckers below the first flower cluster to promote manageable growth and early yield.
Moderate pruning encourages airflow and balanced canopy cover, preventing sunscald while maintaining fruit sweetness.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal sugar production and flavor concentration. In hot climates, light afternoon shade preserves fruit firmness.
Water deeply once or twice per week, maintaining steady soil moisture. Irregular watering may cause cracking or inconsistent ripening.
Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil warms to retain moisture and regulate temperature. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the roots while keeping foliage dry.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from robust, disease-free plants producing uniform red fruit with balanced flavor and high yield. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine to ensure mature seed formation.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to dissolve the gelatinous coating. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Chadwick Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. As an open-pollinated variety, it will remain true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomatoes.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Thriving in rich, well-drained loam with ample organic matter, Chadwick Cherry performs best in biologically active soil. Its abundant, open flowers attract bumblebees and native pollinators that ensure consistent fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with beneficial herbs such as basil, dill, and alyssum to draw pollinators and predatory insects while deterring aphids and whiteflies. Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or greens to maintain soil fertility and prevent pathogen buildup.
Provide 24–30 inches spacing between plants for healthy airflow and balanced light exposure. Avoid close proximity to potatoes or peppers, which share similar pest pressures.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Chadwick Cherry’s classic red color and vibrant flavor make it indispensable in any garden kitchen. Serve halved with olive oil, sea salt, and basil for timeless simplicity, or roast with garlic and herbs for a caramelized burst of sweetness.
Pairs beautifully with creamy cheeses, citrus vinaigrettes, and grilled vegetables. Its bright acidity balances rich dishes such as pasta or roasted meats.
In market displays, its glossy red clusters draw the eye—an emblem of heirloom abundance and timeless taste, honoring the early organic movement that made Chadwick Cherry a garden legend.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Chadwick Cherry' (Solanum lycopersicum)Insects & MitesTomato Hornworms (large caterpillars, defoliation)Controls: Handpick caterpillars in early morning or evening. Encourage natural predators like parasitic wasps by planting companion plants such as dill and fennel. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) as a biological control.Aphids (distorted growth, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)Controls: Use a strong water spray to dislodge aphids. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5–7 days. Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Maintain plant health to reduce susceptibility.Whiteflies (yellowing leaves, reduced vigor)Controls: Use yellow sticky traps to monitor and reduce populations. Introduce Encarsia formosa, a parasitic wasp, for biological control. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil as needed.DiseasesEarly Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark spots on leaves, concentric rings)Controls: Rotate crops and avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot more than once every three years. Remove and destroy infected plant debris. Apply copper-based fungicides as a preventative measure.Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans) (water-soaked lesions, rapid plant collapse)Controls: Use resistant varieties and ensure good air circulation by spacing plants appropriately. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Apply fungicides containing chlorothalonil or copper.Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (wilting, yellowing leaves)Controls: Plant resistant varieties and practice crop rotation. Avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity. Remove and destroy affected plants to prevent spread.Physiological & Environmental IssuesBlossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken spots on fruit)Controls: Ensure consistent watering and maintain even soil moisture. Test soil and amend with lime if calcium is deficient. Mulch to retain soil moisture and reduce fluctuations.Sunscald (white patches on fruit, tissue collapse)Controls: Provide shade during the hottest part of the day using shade cloth or row covers. Ensure adequate leaf cover to protect fruit. Avoid excessive pruning.Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist- Regularly inspect plants for signs of pests and diseases.- Maintain proper spacing to ensure good air circulation.- Use mulch to retain soil moisture and prevent weeds.- Rotate crops and avoid planting tomatoes in the same spot annually.- Encourage beneficial insects by planting companion plants.- Apply preventative fungicides in areas prone to blight.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Chadwick Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Q: What type of tomato is Chadwick Cherry?
Chadwick Cherry is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme) renowned for its classic, full-bodied heirloom flavor and vigorous growth. The bright red, 1–1.5 inch fruits grow in large clusters and deliver a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. It was originally selected and popularized by legendary horticulturist Alan Chadwick in the 1960s, whose biodynamic gardening methods helped shape the organic farming movement.
Q: How long does Chadwick Cherry take to mature?
Expect 75–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit under warm, consistent growing conditions.
Q: How long does it take for Chadwick Cherry seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days when kept between 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained seed-starting soil.
Q: Does Chadwick Cherry need special soil conditions?
It thrives in rich, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Adding compost or aged manure improves fertility and fruit flavor. Consistent watering ensures even ripening and prevents cracking.
Q: What spacing do Chadwick Cherry tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The indeterminate vines grow tall and sprawling, requiring cages, trellises, or staking for support.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, though wind and pollinator activity improve fruit set and yield.
Q: Can I grow Chadwick Cherry in containers?
Yes. Use a 7–10 gallon container with rich, well-draining potting soil and strong support. Container-grown plants may need daily watering in hot weather.
Q: How tall do Chadwick Cherry plants get?
Plants can reach 6–8 feet tall with proper support. Pruning excess foliage helps improve air circulation and ease of harvest.
Q: Why are my Chadwick Cherry tomatoes cracking?
Cracking happens when watering is inconsistent. Keep moisture levels steady, especially during fruit development, and mulch to retain soil moisture.
Q: How should I harvest Chadwick Cherry tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are fully red and firm, with a slight give when pressed. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.
Q: How do I store Chadwick Cherry tomatoes after harvest?
Store at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shallow single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration, which diminishes sweetness and flavor.
Q: Are Chadwick Cherry tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. While perfect for fresh eating, they also roast beautifully and add robust flavor to sauces, salads, and pasta dishes. Their high sugar content makes them ideal for drying or slow-roasting into sweet, chewy morsels.
Q: Are Chadwick Cherry tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Chadwick Cherry is a beloved heirloom developed in the 1960s by Alan Chadwick at the University of California, Santa Cruz. It became foundational in the organic gardening movement and remains a staple among traditional growers and seedkeepers.
Q: Why are my Chadwick Cherry fruits smaller than expected?
High temperatures, drought, or excessive nitrogen can limit fruit size. Maintain even watering, avoid over-fertilizing, and ensure full sunlight exposure.
Q: Can I save seeds from Chadwick Cherry?
Yes. Being open-pollinated, it breeds true to type. Select healthy, ripe fruits, ferment the seeds for 2–3 days, rinse thoroughly, and dry before storing in a cool, dry place.
Q: What type of tomato is Chadwick Cherry?
Chadwick Cherry is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme) renowned for its classic, full-bodied heirloom flavor and vigorous growth. The bright red, 1–1.5 inch fruits grow in large clusters and deliver a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. It was originally selected and popularized by legendary horticulturist Alan Chadwick in the 1960s, whose biodynamic gardening methods helped shape the organic farming movement.
Q: How long does Chadwick Cherry take to mature?
Expect 75–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit under warm, consistent growing conditions.
Q: How long does it take for Chadwick Cherry seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days when kept between 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained seed-starting soil.
Q: Does Chadwick Cherry need special soil conditions?
It thrives in rich, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Adding compost or aged manure improves fertility and fruit flavor. Consistent watering ensures even ripening and prevents cracking.
Q: What spacing do Chadwick Cherry tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The indeterminate vines grow tall and sprawling, requiring cages, trellises, or staking for support.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, though wind and pollinator activity improve fruit set and yield.
Q: Can I grow Chadwick Cherry in containers?
Yes. Use a 7–10 gallon container with rich, well-draining potting soil and strong support. Container-grown plants may need daily watering in hot weather.
Q: How tall do Chadwick Cherry plants get?
Plants can reach 6–8 feet tall with proper support. Pruning excess foliage helps improve air circulation and ease of harvest.
Q: Why are my Chadwick Cherry tomatoes cracking?
Cracking happens when watering is inconsistent. Keep moisture levels steady, especially during fruit development, and mulch to retain soil moisture.
Q: How should I harvest Chadwick Cherry tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are fully red and firm, with a slight give when pressed. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.
Q: How do I store Chadwick Cherry tomatoes after harvest?
Store at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shallow single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration, which diminishes sweetness and flavor.
Q: Are Chadwick Cherry tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. While perfect for fresh eating, they also roast beautifully and add robust flavor to sauces, salads, and pasta dishes. Their high sugar content makes them ideal for drying or slow-roasting into sweet, chewy morsels.
Q: Are Chadwick Cherry tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Chadwick Cherry is a beloved heirloom developed in the 1960s by Alan Chadwick at the University of California, Santa Cruz. It became foundational in the organic gardening movement and remains a staple among traditional growers and seedkeepers.
Q: Why are my Chadwick Cherry fruits smaller than expected?
High temperatures, drought, or excessive nitrogen can limit fruit size. Maintain even watering, avoid over-fertilizing, and ensure full sunlight exposure.
Q: Can I save seeds from Chadwick Cherry?
Yes. Being open-pollinated, it breeds true to type. Select healthy, ripe fruits, ferment the seeds for 2–3 days, rinse thoroughly, and dry before storing in a cool, dry place.
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History & Culture — Chadwick Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Chadwick Cherry Tomato, also known as Camp Joy Cherry, was bred and popularized in the 1960s by Alan Chadwick, a British horticulturist and pioneer of the organic and biodynamic gardening movement in California. Working at UC Santa Cruz’s Student Garden Project, Chadwick selected this variety for flavor, vigor, and resilience — traits that made it a cornerstone of the early organic farming renaissance in America.
While its modern development took place in the 20th century, the Chadwick Cherry’s heritage stretches back to the original wild Solanum pimpinellifolium species cultivated by Indigenous farmers in South America. Its high productivity, sweetness, and adaptability are living echoes of that ancient biodiversity.
In today’s gardens, the Chadwick Cherry Tomato carries forward a dual legacy — the ancestral seed wisdom of Indigenous growers and the modern organic movement’s return to natural cultivation. Each vibrant cluster of fruit reminds us that true progress in agriculture often comes from remembering where the seed began.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Chadwick Cherry Tomato, also known as Camp Joy Cherry, was bred and popularized in the 1960s by Alan Chadwick, a British horticulturist and pioneer of the organic and biodynamic gardening movement in California. Working at UC Santa Cruz’s Student Garden Project, Chadwick selected this variety for flavor, vigor, and resilience — traits that made it a cornerstone of the early organic farming renaissance in America.
While its modern development took place in the 20th century, the Chadwick Cherry’s heritage stretches back to the original wild Solanum pimpinellifolium species cultivated by Indigenous farmers in South America. Its high productivity, sweetness, and adaptability are living echoes of that ancient biodiversity.
In today’s gardens, the Chadwick Cherry Tomato carries forward a dual legacy — the ancestral seed wisdom of Indigenous growers and the modern organic movement’s return to natural cultivation. Each vibrant cluster of fruit reminds us that true progress in agriculture often comes from remembering where the seed began.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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