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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Black Cherry
Unleash a burst of rich, smoky sweetness with Black Cherry Tomatoes—perfect for vibrant salads and gourmet dishes.
Alliance of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM66
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Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Discover the unique allure of Black Cherry tomatoes, an indeterminate variety that promises a lush and continuous harvest. These organic seeds yield vigorous plants that can reach heights of up to 6 feet, producing an abundant crop of small, round fruits. As they mature, the tomatoes transition from a deep green to a rich, dark purple, almost black hue, offering a striking addition to your garden and kitchen.
Typically ready for harvest in about 65-75 days, Black Cherry tomatoes are celebrated for their complex flavor profile. Each bite reveals a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, making them an exceptional choice for fresh salads, gourmet garnishes, or simple snacking. Their uniform shape and size, approximately one inch in diameter, ensure ease of use in various culinary applications.
Ideal for both novice and experienced gardeners, these tomatoes thrive in well-drained soil with plenty of sunlight. Their robust growth habit and resistance to common diseases make them a reliable choice for organic cultivation. Embrace the opportunity to grow these delightful tomatoes, and enjoy their unparalleled taste and visual appeal throughout the growing season.
$200 USD
$495
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Cage
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
70-79 Days
(from transplant)
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Black Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during dry or high-fruit-load periods.
Use deep, infrequent watering to encourage strong root systems and reduce fruit splitting.
Best method: drip irrigation or soaker hoses—they deliver steady moisture directly at soil level, minimizing fungal disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once soil warms to stabilize temperature and moisture.
Tip: Consistent soil moisture is vital for crack-free fruit and to prevent blossom end rot.
Fertilizing
Before planting, work 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer during vegetative growth (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to support fruiting and flavor.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract to maintain plant vigor and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilizing—lush foliage and poor fruit set are common with excessive nitrogen.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent competition and harboring of pests.
Use organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
When weeding, loosen soil gently around the base; tomato roots grow close to the surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Black Cherry tomatoes thrive in full sun—a minimum of 6–8 hours daily ensures proper fruit color and sweetness.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During extreme heat above 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit cracking.
Ensure adequate airflow between plants to prevent humidity buildup and fungal growth.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
Being indeterminate, Black Cherry requires sturdy staking, trellising, or caging.
Train vines upward for better airflow, cleaner fruit, and easier harvest.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and early blight.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigold, onion, carrot, parsley, and garlic help deter pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and cabbage-family crops that can inhibit growth.
Plant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to invite beneficial insects and improve pollination rates.
Container Growing
Excellent for container gardens with minimum 15-gallon pots and heavy-duty staking.
Use high-quality organic potting soil blended with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily in summer—container-grown plants dry out faster.
Feed lightly but regularly with compost tea or liquid tomato fertilizer every 10–14 days.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cloches early in the season to retain heat and protect from cool nights.
In cooler regions, preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting.
At season’s end, remove new flowers about 4 weeks before frost to redirect energy to ripening fruit.
Unripe fruit can finish coloring indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C) away from direct sun.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during dry or high-fruit-load periods.
Use deep, infrequent watering to encourage strong root systems and reduce fruit splitting.
Best method: drip irrigation or soaker hoses—they deliver steady moisture directly at soil level, minimizing fungal disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once soil warms to stabilize temperature and moisture.
Tip: Consistent soil moisture is vital for crack-free fruit and to prevent blossom end rot.
Fertilizing
Before planting, work 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer during vegetative growth (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to support fruiting and flavor.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract to maintain plant vigor and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilizing—lush foliage and poor fruit set are common with excessive nitrogen.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent competition and harboring of pests.
Use organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
When weeding, loosen soil gently around the base; tomato roots grow close to the surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Black Cherry tomatoes thrive in full sun—a minimum of 6–8 hours daily ensures proper fruit color and sweetness.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During extreme heat above 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit cracking.
Ensure adequate airflow between plants to prevent humidity buildup and fungal growth.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
Being indeterminate, Black Cherry requires sturdy staking, trellising, or caging.
Train vines upward for better airflow, cleaner fruit, and easier harvest.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and early blight.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigold, onion, carrot, parsley, and garlic help deter pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and cabbage-family crops that can inhibit growth.
Plant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to invite beneficial insects and improve pollination rates.
Container Growing
Excellent for container gardens with minimum 15-gallon pots and heavy-duty staking.
Use high-quality organic potting soil blended with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily in summer—container-grown plants dry out faster.
Feed lightly but regularly with compost tea or liquid tomato fertilizer every 10–14 days.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cloches early in the season to retain heat and protect from cool nights.
In cooler regions, preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting.
At season’s end, remove new flowers about 4 weeks before frost to redirect energy to ripening fruit.
Unripe fruit can finish coloring indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C) away from direct sun.
Additional Tips — Black Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach their mature dusky maroon to deep purple-brown color, often with greenish shoulders that remain even at peak ripeness. The skin should feel taut and glossy, and fruits will release easily from the truss with a gentle twist.
Fruits average 1 inch in diameter and grow in generous clusters of 8–12. Use pruning shears or snip whole trusses when clusters ripen together, leaving a bit of stem attached to extend freshness and prevent tearing.
Harvest every few days during peak season; consistent picking encourages new blooms and extended production. Avoid harvesting after heavy rain or irrigation, as cherry tomatoes are prone to splitting under rapid moisture fluctuations.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Black Cherry tomatoes are prized for their complex, wine-like sweetness and earthy richness—combining the bold, smoky undertones of larger black heirlooms with the concentrated sweetness typical of cherry types.
Their flavor deepens with ripeness, offering notes of plum, molasses, and sun-warmed earth balanced by bright acidity. Perfect for snacking, salads, and fresh platters, they elevate simple dishes with striking color and a sophisticated, savory-sweet profile.
When roasted, the sugars caramelize, producing an extraordinary umami intensity ideal for pasta, flatbreads, and roasted vegetable medleys. They also hold their shape well in sautéed or blistered preparations, maintaining both texture and depth.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a well-ventilated, shaded space. Avoid refrigeration, as it mutes flavor and alters texture.
Lay fruits in a single layer on paper-lined trays to prevent bruising and spoilage. Under proper handling, Black Cherry tomatoes retain their flavor and firmness for 5–7 days.
For market display or short storage, harvest slightly underripe (80–90% colored) to prevent cracking during transport; they will finish ripening evenly off the vine.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Black Cherry requires trellising or caging to support its vigorous, sprawling vines and heavy trusses. Provide tall supports—at least 6–7 feet—and secure vines gently with soft twine.
Remove lower leaves once the plant is established to prevent soil splash and fungal spread. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to channel energy toward productive growth.
Moderate pruning helps improve airflow and reduce disease risk, though maintaining sufficient foliage will shield fruits from excessive sun exposure.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sun daily for balanced sweetness and color development. In hot regions, light afternoon shade preserves skin integrity and prevents sunscald.
Water deeply and consistently once or twice weekly, keeping soil evenly moist to prevent splitting. Inconsistent watering can lead to cracked skins and uneven ripening.
Apply organic mulch—such as straw, compost, or shredded leaves—once soil has warmed to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain soil temperature. Use drip irrigation to deliver water at the root zone while keeping foliage dry.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants producing uniform, richly colored fruit with balanced flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen fully on the vine for optimal seed maturity.
Scoop out seeds and pulp into a small jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to break down the gelatinous seed coat. Rinse thoroughly, then spread thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shaded airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry place. Properly cured Black Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Black Cherry thrives in rich, well-drained soil amended with compost or aged manure. It performs best at a pH of 6.0–6.8. Its bright yellow blossoms attract native bumblebees and hoverflies, improving fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly herbs like basil, thyme, or calendula to draw beneficial insects and repel aphids and whiteflies. Rotate crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to maintain soil fertility and reduce disease pressure.
Avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, which share common pests and fungal pathogens. Provide 30 inches of spacing between plants for optimal airflow and sunlight exposure.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Black Cherry’s rich, dusky hue and layered flavor make it a showpiece among cherry tomatoes. Use fresh in salads, where its deep tones contrast beautifully with golden or red varieties. Pair with burrata, basil, and balsamic glaze for an elegant color and flavor balance.
Roast slowly with olive oil, rosemary, and garlic to concentrate sweetness—ideal for topping bruschetta or folding into pasta sauces.
In market displays, its jewel-like clusters of burgundy fruit catch the eye amid lighter varieties, signaling depth, flavor, and heirloom authenticity—a small tomato with grand culinary presence.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach their mature dusky maroon to deep purple-brown color, often with greenish shoulders that remain even at peak ripeness. The skin should feel taut and glossy, and fruits will release easily from the truss with a gentle twist.
Fruits average 1 inch in diameter and grow in generous clusters of 8–12. Use pruning shears or snip whole trusses when clusters ripen together, leaving a bit of stem attached to extend freshness and prevent tearing.
Harvest every few days during peak season; consistent picking encourages new blooms and extended production. Avoid harvesting after heavy rain or irrigation, as cherry tomatoes are prone to splitting under rapid moisture fluctuations.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Black Cherry tomatoes are prized for their complex, wine-like sweetness and earthy richness—combining the bold, smoky undertones of larger black heirlooms with the concentrated sweetness typical of cherry types.
Their flavor deepens with ripeness, offering notes of plum, molasses, and sun-warmed earth balanced by bright acidity. Perfect for snacking, salads, and fresh platters, they elevate simple dishes with striking color and a sophisticated, savory-sweet profile.
When roasted, the sugars caramelize, producing an extraordinary umami intensity ideal for pasta, flatbreads, and roasted vegetable medleys. They also hold their shape well in sautéed or blistered preparations, maintaining both texture and depth.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a well-ventilated, shaded space. Avoid refrigeration, as it mutes flavor and alters texture.
Lay fruits in a single layer on paper-lined trays to prevent bruising and spoilage. Under proper handling, Black Cherry tomatoes retain their flavor and firmness for 5–7 days.
For market display or short storage, harvest slightly underripe (80–90% colored) to prevent cracking during transport; they will finish ripening evenly off the vine.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Black Cherry requires trellising or caging to support its vigorous, sprawling vines and heavy trusses. Provide tall supports—at least 6–7 feet—and secure vines gently with soft twine.
Remove lower leaves once the plant is established to prevent soil splash and fungal spread. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to channel energy toward productive growth.
Moderate pruning helps improve airflow and reduce disease risk, though maintaining sufficient foliage will shield fruits from excessive sun exposure.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sun daily for balanced sweetness and color development. In hot regions, light afternoon shade preserves skin integrity and prevents sunscald.
Water deeply and consistently once or twice weekly, keeping soil evenly moist to prevent splitting. Inconsistent watering can lead to cracked skins and uneven ripening.
Apply organic mulch—such as straw, compost, or shredded leaves—once soil has warmed to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain soil temperature. Use drip irrigation to deliver water at the root zone while keeping foliage dry.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants producing uniform, richly colored fruit with balanced flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen fully on the vine for optimal seed maturity.
Scoop out seeds and pulp into a small jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to break down the gelatinous seed coat. Rinse thoroughly, then spread thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shaded airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry place. Properly cured Black Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Black Cherry thrives in rich, well-drained soil amended with compost or aged manure. It performs best at a pH of 6.0–6.8. Its bright yellow blossoms attract native bumblebees and hoverflies, improving fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly herbs like basil, thyme, or calendula to draw beneficial insects and repel aphids and whiteflies. Rotate crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to maintain soil fertility and reduce disease pressure.
Avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, which share common pests and fungal pathogens. Provide 30 inches of spacing between plants for optimal airflow and sunlight exposure.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Black Cherry’s rich, dusky hue and layered flavor make it a showpiece among cherry tomatoes. Use fresh in salads, where its deep tones contrast beautifully with golden or red varieties. Pair with burrata, basil, and balsamic glaze for an elegant color and flavor balance.
Roast slowly with olive oil, rosemary, and garlic to concentrate sweetness—ideal for topping bruschetta or folding into pasta sauces.
In market displays, its jewel-like clusters of burgundy fruit catch the eye amid lighter varieties, signaling depth, flavor, and heirloom authenticity—a small tomato with grand culinary presence.
Common Pests & Problems – Black Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Fungal & Bacterial Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani): Common in humid or rainy stretches. Leaves show concentric brown rings, starting from the base upward. Remove affected foliage, mulch to prevent soil splash, and apply copper or biological fungicides such as Bacillus subtilis at first signs.
Septoria Leaf Spot: Small dark lesions on lower leaves that spread upward. Improve airflow with wide spacing and prune lower branches early. Avoid wetting foliage and rotate crops annually.
Powdery Mildew: Pale, dusty coating on leaves under high humidity. Increase airflow, water at soil level, and use sulfur dust or neem oil sprays when detected.
Bacterial Speck or Spot: Tiny dark pinholes on leaves and fruit, usually following cool, wet periods. Sanitize tools, avoid overhead watering, and remove infected debris at season’s end.
Physiological & Nutrient Disorders
Blossom End Rot: Dark, sunken patches on fruit bottoms from inconsistent watering or calcium imbalance. Maintain steady moisture and feed with calcium-rich compost or organic tomato fertilizers. Crushed eggshells decompose too slowly to correct immediate deficiency—use faster-release sources like bone meal or calcium nitrate instead.
Cracking/Splitting: Occurs when dry soil is followed by sudden heavy rain or overwatering. Mulch heavily and water deeply, maintaining consistent soil moisture.
Sunscald: Pale or leathery spots on fruit exposed after leaf loss. Avoid excessive pruning and provide partial shade during extreme heat.
Insect Pests
Aphids: Found on new growth; they excrete sticky honeydew that attracts ants. Use strong water sprays or insecticidal soap, and plant companions like basil or marigolds to deter them.
Tomato Hornworm: Large green caterpillars that can defoliate plants overnight. Handpick and destroy, or encourage natural predators like parasitic wasps (Trichogramma).
Whiteflies: Common in sheltered areas and greenhouses. Use yellow sticky traps, introduce beneficial insects such as Encarsia formosa, and spray neem oil weekly if infestation persists.
Spider Mites: Thrive in dry, hot weather. Misting undersides of leaves and applying horticultural oils or predator mites helps control populations.
Flea Beetles: Tiny holes in young leaves. Protect seedlings with row covers until established and interplant with radish or nasturtium as trap crops.
General Cultural Prevention
Rotate tomato crops every 3–4 years, avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, and maintain at least 2 feet of spacing for airflow. Mulch deeply, water early in the day, and keep hands and tools clean between plants to limit disease spread.
Fungal & Bacterial Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani): Common in humid or rainy stretches. Leaves show concentric brown rings, starting from the base upward. Remove affected foliage, mulch to prevent soil splash, and apply copper or biological fungicides such as Bacillus subtilis at first signs.
Septoria Leaf Spot: Small dark lesions on lower leaves that spread upward. Improve airflow with wide spacing and prune lower branches early. Avoid wetting foliage and rotate crops annually.
Powdery Mildew: Pale, dusty coating on leaves under high humidity. Increase airflow, water at soil level, and use sulfur dust or neem oil sprays when detected.
Bacterial Speck or Spot: Tiny dark pinholes on leaves and fruit, usually following cool, wet periods. Sanitize tools, avoid overhead watering, and remove infected debris at season’s end.
Physiological & Nutrient Disorders
Blossom End Rot: Dark, sunken patches on fruit bottoms from inconsistent watering or calcium imbalance. Maintain steady moisture and feed with calcium-rich compost or organic tomato fertilizers. Crushed eggshells decompose too slowly to correct immediate deficiency—use faster-release sources like bone meal or calcium nitrate instead.
Cracking/Splitting: Occurs when dry soil is followed by sudden heavy rain or overwatering. Mulch heavily and water deeply, maintaining consistent soil moisture.
Sunscald: Pale or leathery spots on fruit exposed after leaf loss. Avoid excessive pruning and provide partial shade during extreme heat.
Insect Pests
Aphids: Found on new growth; they excrete sticky honeydew that attracts ants. Use strong water sprays or insecticidal soap, and plant companions like basil or marigolds to deter them.
Tomato Hornworm: Large green caterpillars that can defoliate plants overnight. Handpick and destroy, or encourage natural predators like parasitic wasps (Trichogramma).
Whiteflies: Common in sheltered areas and greenhouses. Use yellow sticky traps, introduce beneficial insects such as Encarsia formosa, and spray neem oil weekly if infestation persists.
Spider Mites: Thrive in dry, hot weather. Misting undersides of leaves and applying horticultural oils or predator mites helps control populations.
Flea Beetles: Tiny holes in young leaves. Protect seedlings with row covers until established and interplant with radish or nasturtium as trap crops.
General Cultural Prevention
Rotate tomato crops every 3–4 years, avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, and maintain at least 2 feet of spacing for airflow. Mulch deeply, water early in the day, and keep hands and tools clean between plants to limit disease spread.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Black Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: Are Black Cherry tomatoes truly black?
A: Not entirely black, but a deep mahogany-purple with smoky undertones. The color deepens with sunlight and warmth, reflecting its high anthocyanin and lycopene levels.
Q: How tall do Black Cherry tomato plants grow?
A: Plants are indeterminate, often reaching 6–8 feet in ideal conditions. Provide sturdy staking or a tall cage to support heavy clusters throughout the season.
Q: How long until harvest?
A: Expect first ripe fruit in about 65–75 days from transplanting. Plants continue producing steadily until frost.
Q: Why are my fruits splitting?
A: Rapid watering after dry periods causes fruit to swell faster than the skin can stretch. Maintain even soil moisture and use 2–3 inches of organic mulch to buffer swings.
Q: My Black Cherry plants have curled leaves—is that normal?
A: Mild leaf curl is a physiological response to heat or uneven moisture, not disease. It typically resolves as temperatures stabilize. However, tightly rolled leaves with discoloration may signal aphid activity or virus presence—inspect closely.
Q: Do Black Cherry tomatoes cross-pollinate easily with other varieties?
A: Tomatoes are largely self-pollinating, but occasional cross-pollination can occur. To save pure seed, isolate plants by 25–50 feet or bag flowers before pollination.
Q: Are they good for containers?
A: Yes, if you use at least a 10–15 gallon pot with a deep root zone and strong support. Consistent watering is critical, as container soil dries quickly.
Q: What do they taste like?
A: Rich, complex, and sweet with wine-like undertones—often described as the most flavorful of the cherry types. Excellent for snacking, salads, roasting, and gourmet markets.
Q: Are Black Cherry tomatoes resistant to disease?
A: While not bred for resistance, they show good tolerance to heat, humidity, and cracking. Prevent disease with healthy soil, clean pruning, and consistent moisture management.
Q: How can I improve fruit set during high heat?
A: Flowers can drop when daytime temperatures exceed 90°F or nighttime temps stay above 75°F. Provide shade cloth during extreme heat and ensure steady watering to reduce stress.
Q: Are Black Cherry tomatoes truly black?
A: Not entirely black, but a deep mahogany-purple with smoky undertones. The color deepens with sunlight and warmth, reflecting its high anthocyanin and lycopene levels.
Q: How tall do Black Cherry tomato plants grow?
A: Plants are indeterminate, often reaching 6–8 feet in ideal conditions. Provide sturdy staking or a tall cage to support heavy clusters throughout the season.
Q: How long until harvest?
A: Expect first ripe fruit in about 65–75 days from transplanting. Plants continue producing steadily until frost.
Q: Why are my fruits splitting?
A: Rapid watering after dry periods causes fruit to swell faster than the skin can stretch. Maintain even soil moisture and use 2–3 inches of organic mulch to buffer swings.
Q: My Black Cherry plants have curled leaves—is that normal?
A: Mild leaf curl is a physiological response to heat or uneven moisture, not disease. It typically resolves as temperatures stabilize. However, tightly rolled leaves with discoloration may signal aphid activity or virus presence—inspect closely.
Q: Do Black Cherry tomatoes cross-pollinate easily with other varieties?
A: Tomatoes are largely self-pollinating, but occasional cross-pollination can occur. To save pure seed, isolate plants by 25–50 feet or bag flowers before pollination.
Q: Are they good for containers?
A: Yes, if you use at least a 10–15 gallon pot with a deep root zone and strong support. Consistent watering is critical, as container soil dries quickly.
Q: What do they taste like?
A: Rich, complex, and sweet with wine-like undertones—often described as the most flavorful of the cherry types. Excellent for snacking, salads, roasting, and gourmet markets.
Q: Are Black Cherry tomatoes resistant to disease?
A: While not bred for resistance, they show good tolerance to heat, humidity, and cracking. Prevent disease with healthy soil, clean pruning, and consistent moisture management.
Q: How can I improve fruit set during high heat?
A: Flowers can drop when daytime temperatures exceed 90°F or nighttime temps stay above 75°F. Provide shade cloth during extreme heat and ensure steady watering to reduce stress.
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History & Culture — Black Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Black Cherry Tomato is a modern open-pollinated variety bred to capture the complex, smoky flavor of heirloom “black” tomatoes in a small, bite-sized form. Developed in the early 2000s by renowned tomato breeder Vince Sapp of Tomato Growers Supply Company, it quickly became a favorite among chefs, market growers, and home gardeners for its rich taste, high yield, and striking mahogany-purple fruits.
While its development is recent, its genetics carry the full breadth of tomato history — from wild Solanum pimpinellifolium ancestors of coastal Peru to the dark-fruited heirlooms of Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean. The variety exemplifies how contemporary breeders, working with open-pollinated seed, continue the same tradition of natural selection and flavor refinement practiced by Indigenous farmers thousands of years ago.
In today’s gardens, the Black Cherry Tomato embodies both innovation and continuity. Each glossy, sweet-savored fruit unites the wild origins of the tomato with the artistry of modern seedkeeping — proof that the legacy of the Americas’ original seed scientists still flourishes in every garden row.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Black Cherry Tomato is a modern open-pollinated variety bred to capture the complex, smoky flavor of heirloom “black” tomatoes in a small, bite-sized form. Developed in the early 2000s by renowned tomato breeder Vince Sapp of Tomato Growers Supply Company, it quickly became a favorite among chefs, market growers, and home gardeners for its rich taste, high yield, and striking mahogany-purple fruits.
While its development is recent, its genetics carry the full breadth of tomato history — from wild Solanum pimpinellifolium ancestors of coastal Peru to the dark-fruited heirlooms of Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean. The variety exemplifies how contemporary breeders, working with open-pollinated seed, continue the same tradition of natural selection and flavor refinement practiced by Indigenous farmers thousands of years ago.
In today’s gardens, the Black Cherry Tomato embodies both innovation and continuity. Each glossy, sweet-savored fruit unites the wild origins of the tomato with the artistry of modern seedkeeping — proof that the legacy of the Americas’ original seed scientists still flourishes in every garden row.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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