Loading...
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Chocolate Pear Cherry
Deep brown pear-shaped cherries with rich, earthy sweetness.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM39
No reviews
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato is a unique heirloom variety celebrated for its deep mahogany-brown hue and rich, complex flavor. This indeterminate plant matures in 85–90 days, producing small, pear-shaped fruits about 1.5 inches long, each bursting with earthy sweetness and a hint of smokiness.
These tomatoes are prized for their balanced, savory-sweet profile, making them ideal for fresh snacking, colorful salads, and gourmet platters. Their dark coloration deepens as they ripen, creating stunning contrast when mixed with red, yellow, and orange cherry types.
Plants are high-yielding and vigorous, thriving in full sun and nutrient-rich, well-drained soil. Consistent watering and sturdy staking ensure long-lasting productivity throughout the season. With origins tied to dedicated seed preservation, the Chocolate Pear Cherry brings both visual intrigue and unforgettable flavor to any garden or market display.
$200 USD
$400
Unit price
/
Unavailable
Secure checkout
Details
Your payment is processed securely via trusted gateways. We do not store credit card details and we do not have access to your card information.
Couldn't load pickup availability
Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Cage
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during dry or fruit-heavy periods.
Water deeply and evenly to promote strong root systems and prevent splitting in these small, pear-shaped fruits.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to maintain consistent soil moisture and prevent fungal issues.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, to reduce humidity and disease risk.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) once soil warms to conserve moisture and regulate temperature.
Tip: Steady watering enhances the dark chocolate-brown pigment and balanced sweetness characteristic of this variety.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, transition to a lower-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to boost fruit production and improve flavor concentration.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to prevent blossom end rot and improve fruit firmness.
Avoid excessive nitrogen, which promotes leafy growth over fruit set.
Tip: A slow, steady nutrient supply produces the best color contrast and rich, smoky flavor typical of dark-fruited cherries.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and provide airflow at the soil surface.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to retain moisture, reduce weeds, and foster beneficial microbial activity.
Weed carefully around the root zone to avoid damaging fine surface roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to intensify the brown-red color and boost sugar accumulation.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In temperatures exceeding 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect flowers and reduce fruit stress.
Maintain good airflow between plants to reduce humidity and fungal pressure.
Tip: High light exposure increases anthocyanin and carotenoid levels, deepening the rich chocolate hue.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As a productive indeterminate cherry type, Chocolate Pear requires strong staking, caging, or trellising.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly for better airflow and fruit access.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and disease.
Tip: Sturdy vertical training systems improve yield and make harvesting easier without damaging delicate fruit skins.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial insects: Interplant with small-flowered herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitoid wasps that feed on aphids and thrips.
Encourage pollination: Include continuous-blooming plants like calendula, cosmos, or native asters nearby to sustain pollinators throughout the season.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens every 2–3 years to prevent buildup of soilborne diseases. Avoid following with peppers, eggplants, or potatoes.
Soil ecology: Maintain mulch or groundcovers between rows to promote soil biodiversity and moisture regulation.
Tip: Ecological diversity and soil rotation are supported by field research as effective long-term pest suppression methods.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with a sturdy cage or trellis.
Use high-quality organic potting soil enriched with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily—container plants dry quickly during peak heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer for sustained fruiting.
Tip: Mulching containers prevents rapid evaporation and maintains root-zone stability for consistent color and sweetness.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect seedlings and retain warmth.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler areas.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before frost to channel energy into ripening fruits.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Chocolate Pear continues to deepen in color and flavor post-harvest—store at room temperature for best taste.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during dry or fruit-heavy periods.
Water deeply and evenly to promote strong root systems and prevent splitting in these small, pear-shaped fruits.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to maintain consistent soil moisture and prevent fungal issues.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, to reduce humidity and disease risk.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) once soil warms to conserve moisture and regulate temperature.
Tip: Steady watering enhances the dark chocolate-brown pigment and balanced sweetness characteristic of this variety.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, transition to a lower-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to boost fruit production and improve flavor concentration.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to prevent blossom end rot and improve fruit firmness.
Avoid excessive nitrogen, which promotes leafy growth over fruit set.
Tip: A slow, steady nutrient supply produces the best color contrast and rich, smoky flavor typical of dark-fruited cherries.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and provide airflow at the soil surface.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to retain moisture, reduce weeds, and foster beneficial microbial activity.
Weed carefully around the root zone to avoid damaging fine surface roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to intensify the brown-red color and boost sugar accumulation.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In temperatures exceeding 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect flowers and reduce fruit stress.
Maintain good airflow between plants to reduce humidity and fungal pressure.
Tip: High light exposure increases anthocyanin and carotenoid levels, deepening the rich chocolate hue.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As a productive indeterminate cherry type, Chocolate Pear requires strong staking, caging, or trellising.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly for better airflow and fruit access.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and disease.
Tip: Sturdy vertical training systems improve yield and make harvesting easier without damaging delicate fruit skins.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial insects: Interplant with small-flowered herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitoid wasps that feed on aphids and thrips.
Encourage pollination: Include continuous-blooming plants like calendula, cosmos, or native asters nearby to sustain pollinators throughout the season.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens every 2–3 years to prevent buildup of soilborne diseases. Avoid following with peppers, eggplants, or potatoes.
Soil ecology: Maintain mulch or groundcovers between rows to promote soil biodiversity and moisture regulation.
Tip: Ecological diversity and soil rotation are supported by field research as effective long-term pest suppression methods.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with a sturdy cage or trellis.
Use high-quality organic potting soil enriched with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily—container plants dry quickly during peak heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer for sustained fruiting.
Tip: Mulching containers prevents rapid evaporation and maintains root-zone stability for consistent color and sweetness.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect seedlings and retain warmth.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler areas.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before frost to channel energy into ripening fruits.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Chocolate Pear continues to deepen in color and flavor post-harvest—store at room temperature for best taste.
Additional Tips — Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits mature to their signature deep mahogany-brown color, often with dusky red undertones and a subtle green shoulder near the stem. Each pear-shaped fruit weighs about 1 oz (28 g), hanging in generous clusters that ripen gradually.
Use scissors or small pruning shears to snip whole trusses rather than individual fruits, leaving a short stem attached to prevent splitting.
Pick every two to three days during peak ripening; frequent harvesting encourages continued bloom and fruit set. Avoid gathering immediately after rainfall or heavy watering, as high moisture can dull flavor and thin the skins. Slightly underripe fruits will continue coloring indoors at room temperature.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Chocolate Pear Cherry is admired for its complex, layered flavor—rich umami depth balanced by smooth sweetness and a hint of smokiness. The flesh is juicy yet dense, with a mellow acidity that distinguishes it from brighter red cherries.
Excellent for snacking and fresh salads, these fruits add sophistication to charcuterie boards and artisan dishes. When roasted or grilled, their sugars caramelize into dark, wine-like tones perfect for sauces or compotes.
Their chocolate hue pairs beautifully with golden or red cherry varieties, creating striking contrast in tomato medleys. For chefs and gardeners alike, this variety captures the earthy sweetness that defines modern “black” tomatoes.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruit at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a cool, ventilated space out of direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate—cold storage mutes flavor and alters texture.
Arrange in single layers on cloth- or paper-lined trays to avoid bruising and crushing. Under proper conditions, fruits hold peak quality for 5–7 days.
For transport or display, harvest trusses when most fruits have developed full color but remain firm; they’ll ripen evenly postharvest while retaining their visual luster.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate cherry, Chocolate Pear Cherry benefits from trellising or tall cages (6–8 ft). Tie vines regularly with soft twine or fabric strips to support heavy fruit clusters and prevent branch breakage.
Remove lower leaves after the plant is established to prevent soil splash and early blight. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to direct growth toward fruiting stems.
Moderate pruning promotes airflow and helps maintain fruit sweetness by balancing leaf cover with sun exposure.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for best flavor and color development. In extremely hot regions, light afternoon shade prevents softening and sunscald.
Water deeply once or twice per week, keeping soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Inconsistent watering can cause fruit cracking or dilute sweetness.
Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves after the soil warms to regulate temperature and retain moisture. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep foliage dry and disease-free.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from the healthiest, most uniform plants producing abundant pear-shaped fruit with dark coloration and rich flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine for mature seed formation.
Scoop out pulp and seeds into a small jar with water and ferment for two to three days, stirring daily to dissolve the gelatinous coating. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for seven to ten days in shade with good airflow.
Store dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Chocolate Pear Cherry seeds remain viable for four to six years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Chocolate Pear Cherry thrives in organically rich, well-drained loam with steady fertility. The open flowers attract bumblebees and native bees that pollinate efficiently through vibration, ensuring heavy fruiting.
Interplant with nectar-rich herbs such as basil, dill, or alyssum to attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Rotate crops every two to three years with legumes or greens to maintain soil health and break pest cycles.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which can host similar pathogens. Maintain 24–30 in (60–75 cm) spacing for ventilation and sunlight access.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Chocolate Pear Cherry’s smoky sweetness and elegant color elevate any dish. Combine with bright yellow or orange cherry tomatoes for visual contrast. Serve halved with olive oil, basil, and sea salt for a simple but decadent salad.
Their earthy notes complement roasted meats, mushrooms, and aged cheeses; they also shine when lightly blistered and tossed with pasta or grains.
In markets or displays, present them on the vine to highlight their mahogany tones—proof that beauty and complexity thrive together in the garden.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits mature to their signature deep mahogany-brown color, often with dusky red undertones and a subtle green shoulder near the stem. Each pear-shaped fruit weighs about 1 oz (28 g), hanging in generous clusters that ripen gradually.
Use scissors or small pruning shears to snip whole trusses rather than individual fruits, leaving a short stem attached to prevent splitting.
Pick every two to three days during peak ripening; frequent harvesting encourages continued bloom and fruit set. Avoid gathering immediately after rainfall or heavy watering, as high moisture can dull flavor and thin the skins. Slightly underripe fruits will continue coloring indoors at room temperature.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Chocolate Pear Cherry is admired for its complex, layered flavor—rich umami depth balanced by smooth sweetness and a hint of smokiness. The flesh is juicy yet dense, with a mellow acidity that distinguishes it from brighter red cherries.
Excellent for snacking and fresh salads, these fruits add sophistication to charcuterie boards and artisan dishes. When roasted or grilled, their sugars caramelize into dark, wine-like tones perfect for sauces or compotes.
Their chocolate hue pairs beautifully with golden or red cherry varieties, creating striking contrast in tomato medleys. For chefs and gardeners alike, this variety captures the earthy sweetness that defines modern “black” tomatoes.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruit at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a cool, ventilated space out of direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate—cold storage mutes flavor and alters texture.
Arrange in single layers on cloth- or paper-lined trays to avoid bruising and crushing. Under proper conditions, fruits hold peak quality for 5–7 days.
For transport or display, harvest trusses when most fruits have developed full color but remain firm; they’ll ripen evenly postharvest while retaining their visual luster.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate cherry, Chocolate Pear Cherry benefits from trellising or tall cages (6–8 ft). Tie vines regularly with soft twine or fabric strips to support heavy fruit clusters and prevent branch breakage.
Remove lower leaves after the plant is established to prevent soil splash and early blight. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to direct growth toward fruiting stems.
Moderate pruning promotes airflow and helps maintain fruit sweetness by balancing leaf cover with sun exposure.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for best flavor and color development. In extremely hot regions, light afternoon shade prevents softening and sunscald.
Water deeply once or twice per week, keeping soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Inconsistent watering can cause fruit cracking or dilute sweetness.
Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves after the soil warms to regulate temperature and retain moisture. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep foliage dry and disease-free.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from the healthiest, most uniform plants producing abundant pear-shaped fruit with dark coloration and rich flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine for mature seed formation.
Scoop out pulp and seeds into a small jar with water and ferment for two to three days, stirring daily to dissolve the gelatinous coating. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for seven to ten days in shade with good airflow.
Store dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Chocolate Pear Cherry seeds remain viable for four to six years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Chocolate Pear Cherry thrives in organically rich, well-drained loam with steady fertility. The open flowers attract bumblebees and native bees that pollinate efficiently through vibration, ensuring heavy fruiting.
Interplant with nectar-rich herbs such as basil, dill, or alyssum to attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Rotate crops every two to three years with legumes or greens to maintain soil health and break pest cycles.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which can host similar pathogens. Maintain 24–30 in (60–75 cm) spacing for ventilation and sunlight access.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Chocolate Pear Cherry’s smoky sweetness and elegant color elevate any dish. Combine with bright yellow or orange cherry tomatoes for visual contrast. Serve halved with olive oil, basil, and sea salt for a simple but decadent salad.
Their earthy notes complement roasted meats, mushrooms, and aged cheeses; they also shine when lightly blistered and tossed with pasta or grains.
In markets or displays, present them on the vine to highlight their mahogany tones—proof that beauty and complexity thrive together in the garden.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Chocolate Pear' Cherry (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, extensive defoliation and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants during early morning and evening hours when hornworms are most active. Handpick and destroy any caterpillars found. Encourage beneficial parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) for biological control. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) in the late afternoon, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep weeds and wild nightshades trimmed to reduce hornworm moth breeding.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and reduced vigor)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days, focusing on the undersides of leaves. Attract natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting dill, yarrow, and fennel nearby. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers that encourage aphid-prone new growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, sticky honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Place yellow sticky traps around plants to capture adults. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during infestations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps to provide long-term control. Remove lower leaves and maintain garden sanitation to prevent buildup.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed leaves)
Controls: Maintain high humidity and consistent soil moisture. Hose plants regularly to remove mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations decline. Avoid heat stress and dry, dusty conditions that favor outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric leaf spots, yellowing, and lower leaf drop)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years and avoid planting near peppers or potatoes. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid weather. Water at soil level and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and lower leaf death)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Choose resistant varieties where possible. Maintain proper drainage and avoid waterlogged soil. Remove infected plants promptly and disinfect garden tools.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (small grayish leaf lesions, premature defoliation)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively in humid weather. Prune lower leaves to improve airflow and remove infected leaves immediately. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken patches on fruit ends)
Controls: Keep watering consistent to maintain even soil moisture. Test and amend soil calcium levels with lime or gypsum if necessary. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that hinder calcium uptake.
Cracking (irregular watering or heavy rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and mulch to regulate conditions. Harvest fruit promptly during wet weather to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white, leathery patches caused by direct sun exposure)
Controls: Maintain healthy leaf canopy to shade fruit naturally. Avoid excessive pruning. Provide 20–30% shade during periods of extreme sunlight.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and early fungal spots.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch to stabilize soil moisture and prevent splash.
Water deeply at soil level, keeping foliage dry.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while preserving canopy shade for fruit.
Encourage beneficial insects through diverse companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage promptly and sanitize tools and cages after use.
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, extensive defoliation and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants during early morning and evening hours when hornworms are most active. Handpick and destroy any caterpillars found. Encourage beneficial parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) for biological control. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) in the late afternoon, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep weeds and wild nightshades trimmed to reduce hornworm moth breeding.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and reduced vigor)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days, focusing on the undersides of leaves. Attract natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting dill, yarrow, and fennel nearby. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers that encourage aphid-prone new growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, sticky honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Place yellow sticky traps around plants to capture adults. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during infestations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps to provide long-term control. Remove lower leaves and maintain garden sanitation to prevent buildup.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed leaves)
Controls: Maintain high humidity and consistent soil moisture. Hose plants regularly to remove mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations decline. Avoid heat stress and dry, dusty conditions that favor outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric leaf spots, yellowing, and lower leaf drop)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years and avoid planting near peppers or potatoes. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid weather. Water at soil level and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and lower leaf death)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Choose resistant varieties where possible. Maintain proper drainage and avoid waterlogged soil. Remove infected plants promptly and disinfect garden tools.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (small grayish leaf lesions, premature defoliation)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively in humid weather. Prune lower leaves to improve airflow and remove infected leaves immediately. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken patches on fruit ends)
Controls: Keep watering consistent to maintain even soil moisture. Test and amend soil calcium levels with lime or gypsum if necessary. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that hinder calcium uptake.
Cracking (irregular watering or heavy rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and mulch to regulate conditions. Harvest fruit promptly during wet weather to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white, leathery patches caused by direct sun exposure)
Controls: Maintain healthy leaf canopy to shade fruit naturally. Avoid excessive pruning. Provide 20–30% shade during periods of extreme sunlight.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and early fungal spots.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch to stabilize soil moisture and prevent splash.
Water deeply at soil level, keeping foliage dry.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while preserving canopy shade for fruit.
Encourage beneficial insects through diverse companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage promptly and sanitize tools and cages after use.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Chocolate Pear Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Chocolate Pear?
Chocolate Pear is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry-type tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its rich, smoky flavor and deep mahogany coloration. The pear-shaped fruits average 1–2 inches long and grow in heavy clusters, ripening to a blend of dark red and brown with subtle green undertones. It’s prized for its balanced sweetness and earthy, complex flavor — often compared to black heirlooms like Cherokee Purple or Black Krim but in miniature form.
Q: How long does Chocolate Pear take to mature?
Expect 70–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit, with steady production continuing throughout the season until frost.
Q: How long does it take for Chocolate Pear seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 5–10 days when kept at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained soil or seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Chocolate Pear need special soil conditions?
Yes. This variety performs best in loamy, fertile soil with good drainage and a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Consistent watering enhances sweetness and prevents splitting.
Q: What spacing do Chocolate Pear tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows spaced 36–48 inches apart. Indeterminate vines benefit from vertical staking, trellising, or caging to support their abundant fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating. However, pollinators or gentle shaking of blossoms can improve fruit set and yield consistency.
Q: Can I grow Chocolate Pear in containers?
Absolutely. Use a 5–10 gallon pot with rich soil and adequate drainage. Provide vertical support and consistent watering, as containers dry faster in heat.
Q: How tall do Chocolate Pear plants get?
Plants typically reach 5–7 feet in height with proper staking. Regular pruning helps maintain airflow and prevent disease.
Q: Why are my Chocolate Pear tomatoes splitting?
Cracking or splitting occurs when watering is inconsistent or after heavy rainfall. Maintain steady soil moisture and use mulch to help regulate water levels.
Q: How should I harvest Chocolate Pear tomatoes?
Pick when fruits are evenly colored with a glossy, chocolate-red hue and a slight softness when squeezed. Regular harvesting encourages continuous production.
Q: How do I store Chocolate Pear tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at room temperature (55–70 °F / 13–21 °C) in a single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe, as cold temperatures can dull their flavor.
Q: Are Chocolate Pear tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their unique flavor profile makes them excellent for both fresh and cooked uses. They roast beautifully, intensifying into a caramelized sweetness, and add rich depth to sauces, salsas, and salads.
Q: Are Chocolate Pear tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Chocolate Pear is a modern heirloom-type variety developed from traditional dark tomato lines. Though not ancient, it embodies the flavor, vigor, and diversity of older heirlooms, representing a fusion of color and taste that modern breeders refined from historic stock.
Q: Why are my Chocolate Pear tomatoes smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit may result from high heat (>95 °F), low pollination, or drought stress. Ensure regular watering, balanced fertilization, and some shade during peak summer heat.
Q: Can I save seeds from Chocolate Pear?
Yes — it’s open-pollinated and breeds true to type. Select fully ripe fruits, ferment the seeds for 2–3 days in water, rinse thoroughly, and dry before storing.
Q: What type of tomato is Chocolate Pear?
Chocolate Pear is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry-type tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its rich, smoky flavor and deep mahogany coloration. The pear-shaped fruits average 1–2 inches long and grow in heavy clusters, ripening to a blend of dark red and brown with subtle green undertones. It’s prized for its balanced sweetness and earthy, complex flavor — often compared to black heirlooms like Cherokee Purple or Black Krim but in miniature form.
Q: How long does Chocolate Pear take to mature?
Expect 70–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit, with steady production continuing throughout the season until frost.
Q: How long does it take for Chocolate Pear seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 5–10 days when kept at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained soil or seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Chocolate Pear need special soil conditions?
Yes. This variety performs best in loamy, fertile soil with good drainage and a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Consistent watering enhances sweetness and prevents splitting.
Q: What spacing do Chocolate Pear tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows spaced 36–48 inches apart. Indeterminate vines benefit from vertical staking, trellising, or caging to support their abundant fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating. However, pollinators or gentle shaking of blossoms can improve fruit set and yield consistency.
Q: Can I grow Chocolate Pear in containers?
Absolutely. Use a 5–10 gallon pot with rich soil and adequate drainage. Provide vertical support and consistent watering, as containers dry faster in heat.
Q: How tall do Chocolate Pear plants get?
Plants typically reach 5–7 feet in height with proper staking. Regular pruning helps maintain airflow and prevent disease.
Q: Why are my Chocolate Pear tomatoes splitting?
Cracking or splitting occurs when watering is inconsistent or after heavy rainfall. Maintain steady soil moisture and use mulch to help regulate water levels.
Q: How should I harvest Chocolate Pear tomatoes?
Pick when fruits are evenly colored with a glossy, chocolate-red hue and a slight softness when squeezed. Regular harvesting encourages continuous production.
Q: How do I store Chocolate Pear tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at room temperature (55–70 °F / 13–21 °C) in a single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe, as cold temperatures can dull their flavor.
Q: Are Chocolate Pear tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their unique flavor profile makes them excellent for both fresh and cooked uses. They roast beautifully, intensifying into a caramelized sweetness, and add rich depth to sauces, salsas, and salads.
Q: Are Chocolate Pear tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Chocolate Pear is a modern heirloom-type variety developed from traditional dark tomato lines. Though not ancient, it embodies the flavor, vigor, and diversity of older heirlooms, representing a fusion of color and taste that modern breeders refined from historic stock.
Q: Why are my Chocolate Pear tomatoes smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit may result from high heat (>95 °F), low pollination, or drought stress. Ensure regular watering, balanced fertilization, and some shade during peak summer heat.
Q: Can I save seeds from Chocolate Pear?
Yes — it’s open-pollinated and breeds true to type. Select fully ripe fruits, ferment the seeds for 2–3 days in water, rinse thoroughly, and dry before storing.
📍
ZIP
— Change
🚚
●
Checking local suitability…
🎉
Free shipping on $25+ orders.
🌱
Average Last Frost
—
❄️
Average First Frost
—
From Seed Indoors (Spring)
Start: —
From Plant (Spring)
Transplant: —
Fall Planting
Start/Direct sow: —
Transplant: —
Expected Harvest
Window: —
Is this a good fit for your garden?
●
Answer the checklist to see your fit
History & Culture — Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato is a modern open-pollinated variety prized for its rich mahogany color, pear-shaped form, and smooth, balanced flavor. It was developed through careful selection from naturally pigmented cherry lines, emphasizing taste and beauty over uniformity. Its deep coloration reflects natural anthocyanin and lycopene interactions — compounds also present in wild Solanum species native to the Andes, where the tomato’s story began.
This variety exemplifies the living continuum of seed stewardship — blending modern creative breeding with ancient agricultural wisdom. While contemporary in development, the Chocolate Pear’s complexity of color and taste mirrors the ancient diversity once celebrated in Indigenous fields, where tomatoes of many hues and shapes thrived together.
In today’s gardens, the Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato embodies both innovation and remembrance. Each dusky fruit carries the warmth of the sun, the richness of the soil, and the unbroken lineage of human care that began thousands of years ago among the first farmers of the Americas.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato is a modern open-pollinated variety prized for its rich mahogany color, pear-shaped form, and smooth, balanced flavor. It was developed through careful selection from naturally pigmented cherry lines, emphasizing taste and beauty over uniformity. Its deep coloration reflects natural anthocyanin and lycopene interactions — compounds also present in wild Solanum species native to the Andes, where the tomato’s story began.
This variety exemplifies the living continuum of seed stewardship — blending modern creative breeding with ancient agricultural wisdom. While contemporary in development, the Chocolate Pear’s complexity of color and taste mirrors the ancient diversity once celebrated in Indigenous fields, where tomatoes of many hues and shapes thrived together.
In today’s gardens, the Chocolate Pear Cherry Tomato embodies both innovation and remembrance. Each dusky fruit carries the warmth of the sun, the richness of the soil, and the unbroken lineage of human care that began thousands of years ago among the first farmers of the Americas.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
Payment methods
Your payment information is processed securely. We do not store credit card details nor have access to your credit card information.
Join Our Newsletter for Exclusive Savings!
Sign up for our newsletter to get a 30% discount code sent straight to your inbox. If it doesn’t appear right away, please check your inbox settings, and if you still need help, we’re here to assist!
