Loading...
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Thessaloniki
Sun-ripened and bursting with flavor, Thessaloniki tomatoes deliver garden-fresh goodness for your salads and sauces all season long.
Alliance of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM59
No reviews
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Thessaloniki tomato seeds offer a vigorous indeterminate variety, known for its robust growth and prolific yield. These plants thrive in sunny gardens, reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet, and require staking or caging for optimal support. Expect a bountiful harvest approximately 70 to 80 days from transplanting, making them a reliable mid-season choice for tomato enthusiasts.
The fruits of the Thessaloniki tomato are medium to large, averaging 8 to 12 ounces each. Their smooth, round shape and vibrant red hue make them visually appealing, while their firm texture and balanced acidity provide a classic tomato flavor that is both sweet and tangy. This variety is renowned for its resistance to cracking, ensuring a consistently high-quality crop throughout the season.
In the kitchen, Thessaloniki tomatoes are versatile and ideal for a range of culinary applications. Their robust flavor shines in fresh salads, sandwiches, and salsas, while their meaty texture holds up well in sauces and preserves. Whether enjoyed raw or cooked, these tomatoes bring a delightful taste of the Mediterranean to your table.
$200 USD
$400
Unit price
/
Unavailable
Secure checkout
Details
Your payment is processed securely via trusted gateways. We do not store credit card details and we do not have access to your card information.
Couldn't load pickup availability
Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
30 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Stake
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
70-79 Days
(from transplant)
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Thessaloniki Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, increasing slightly during dry spells or peak fruit production.
Water deeply and consistently to develop a resilient root system and maintain fruit quality.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to ensure even soil moisture while minimizing contact with foliage.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, to reduce fungal disease risk.
Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch once the soil has warmed—straw, compost, or shredded leaves work best to conserve moisture and moderate temperature.
Tip: Consistent watering is key for Thessaloniki, as irregular moisture can cause cracking and affect the fruit’s smooth, rounded shape.
Fertilizing
Amend the soil before planting with 2–3 inches of compost or well-aged manure.
During early growth, feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to encourage steady fruit set and ripening.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract periodically to maintain plant vigor and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilization—excess nitrogen causes excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit.
Tip: A light side dressing of compost tea after the first major harvest encourages continued fruiting through late summer.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to minimize nutrient competition and discourage pests.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to retain soil moisture and stabilize temperature.
Weed gently around the base of plants to avoid damaging shallow feeder roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sunlight—6–8 hours daily ensures rich, balanced flavor and uniform red color.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (above 95°F or 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to prevent blossom drop and fruit stress.
Encourage good airflow through proper spacing and light pruning to reduce humidity and disease risk.
Tip: Thessaloniki performs exceptionally well in hot, sunny climates when given consistent watering and airflow.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate variety, Thessaloniki benefits from sturdy staking, trellising, or caging to support continuous growth and fruiting.
Train vines vertically and remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil-borne disease.
Use soft ties to secure vines and adjust them as plants thicken.
Tip: Thessaloniki produces generous mid-sized fruits—regular pruning helps balance vine vigor with fruit yield.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigold, garlic, chives, parsley, and carrots deter pests and enhance pollinator activity.
Avoid: Fennel, corn, and cabbage-family crops that may inhibit growth or draw pests.
Interplant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings.
Tip: Basil nearby improves both flavor and disease resistance, creating an ideal garden pairing.
Container Growing
Suitable for large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with heavy-duty support structures.
Use rich organic potting soil mixed with compost and perlite for improved drainage and aeration.
Check moisture daily—container plants dry more quickly than those in-ground.
Feed every 10–14 days with a liquid tomato fertilizer or compost tea.
Tip: Container-grown Thessalonikis tend to mature slightly earlier—harvest regularly to promote new flower clusters.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect young plants from cool nights.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler regions.
Toward season’s end, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before expected frost to channel energy into ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they will finish coloring indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Thessaloniki’s thick skin and firm texture make it ideal for late-season harvests and extended storage.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, increasing slightly during dry spells or peak fruit production.
Water deeply and consistently to develop a resilient root system and maintain fruit quality.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to ensure even soil moisture while minimizing contact with foliage.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, to reduce fungal disease risk.
Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch once the soil has warmed—straw, compost, or shredded leaves work best to conserve moisture and moderate temperature.
Tip: Consistent watering is key for Thessaloniki, as irregular moisture can cause cracking and affect the fruit’s smooth, rounded shape.
Fertilizing
Amend the soil before planting with 2–3 inches of compost or well-aged manure.
During early growth, feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to encourage steady fruit set and ripening.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract periodically to maintain plant vigor and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilization—excess nitrogen causes excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit.
Tip: A light side dressing of compost tea after the first major harvest encourages continued fruiting through late summer.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to minimize nutrient competition and discourage pests.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to retain soil moisture and stabilize temperature.
Weed gently around the base of plants to avoid damaging shallow feeder roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sunlight—6–8 hours daily ensures rich, balanced flavor and uniform red color.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (above 95°F or 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to prevent blossom drop and fruit stress.
Encourage good airflow through proper spacing and light pruning to reduce humidity and disease risk.
Tip: Thessaloniki performs exceptionally well in hot, sunny climates when given consistent watering and airflow.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate variety, Thessaloniki benefits from sturdy staking, trellising, or caging to support continuous growth and fruiting.
Train vines vertically and remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to prevent soil-borne disease.
Use soft ties to secure vines and adjust them as plants thicken.
Tip: Thessaloniki produces generous mid-sized fruits—regular pruning helps balance vine vigor with fruit yield.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigold, garlic, chives, parsley, and carrots deter pests and enhance pollinator activity.
Avoid: Fennel, corn, and cabbage-family crops that may inhibit growth or draw pests.
Interplant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings.
Tip: Basil nearby improves both flavor and disease resistance, creating an ideal garden pairing.
Container Growing
Suitable for large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with heavy-duty support structures.
Use rich organic potting soil mixed with compost and perlite for improved drainage and aeration.
Check moisture daily—container plants dry more quickly than those in-ground.
Feed every 10–14 days with a liquid tomato fertilizer or compost tea.
Tip: Container-grown Thessalonikis tend to mature slightly earlier—harvest regularly to promote new flower clusters.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect young plants from cool nights.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler regions.
Toward season’s end, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before expected frost to channel energy into ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they will finish coloring indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Thessaloniki’s thick skin and firm texture make it ideal for late-season harvests and extended storage.
Additional Tips — Thessaloniki Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting:
Harvest fruits when they reach full, deep red coloration and feel firm yet slightly pliable when gently squeezed near the stem. Thessaloniki produces medium-sized, round fruits with smooth, uniform skin — a characteristic of its historic Greek breeding for consistency and market quality.
Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to detach fruits, leaving a short stem stub attached to reduce stem tearing and entry points for disease. Harvest regularly once ripening begins, typically every two to three days, to encourage continued flowering and production throughout the season.
Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation, as surface moisture may reduce flavor intensity and increase cracking risk. For slightly underripe fruits, ripen indoors at room temperature in moderate light; avoid windowsills where excessive heat can cause uneven softening.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Thessaloniki offers a classic Mediterranean flavor — full-bodied, sweet yet balanced with a refreshing acidity and subtle earthy depth. The flesh is dense, smooth, and meaty with minimal seeds, making it ideal for both fresh and cooked applications.
This tomato excels in salads, sandwiches, and sauces alike. When eaten fresh, its flavor is bright and clean, while roasting or simmering brings out its rich, savory-sweet depth. Thessaloniki’s firm texture allows it to hold its shape during cooking, making it excellent for baked dishes, soups, and canning.
Its balanced flavor makes it a reliable all-purpose tomato — equally fitting for gourmet plating, bruschetta, or traditional Mediterranean sauces paired with olive oil, garlic, and herbs such as oregano and thyme.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruit at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a cool, ventilated space with moderate humidity. Avoid refrigeration unless the fruit is overripe, as cold storage reduces aromatic compounds and texture quality.
Arrange fruit in a single layer, stem-side down, on paper or cloth to prevent bruising. Thessaloniki’s firm skin resists cracking, making it slightly more durable than many heirlooms, but care should still be taken to avoid compression during storage or transport.
For short-term holding, use breathable containers or trays. Harvesting just before full ripeness extends shelf life without compromising sweetness — fruits will continue to color and develop flavor indoors over several days.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Thessaloniki requires consistent pruning and robust support. Provide strong cages, trellises, or stakes at least 6 feet tall, as vines are vigorous and fruit-laden.
Remove lower leaves once the plant is well established to increase airflow and prevent soil splash. Pinch out small suckers below the first flower cluster to direct growth toward fruiting stems, but maintain upper foliage to protect against sunscald.
Thessaloniki is naturally disease-tolerant compared to many heirlooms but benefits from regular maintenance pruning to enhance air circulation and reduce the risk of foliar diseases such as septoria or early blight.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to ensure strong growth and full flavor development. In regions of high summer heat (above 95°F / 35°C), offer partial afternoon shade to prevent fruit softening and maintain vibrant color.
Maintain even soil moisture through deep watering once or twice per week. Inconsistent watering can cause cracking, uneven ripening, or blossom-end rot. Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil has warmed to stabilize temperature, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the roots, keeping foliage dry and minimizing disease risk. Avoid overwatering late in the fruiting stage — moderate dryness near ripening can intensify flavor concentration.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from the healthiest, most productive plants producing uniform, medium-sized fruits with smooth skin and true Thessaloniki form. Allow fruits chosen for seed saving to ripen fully on the vine to ensure mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with a small amount of water and ferment for 2–3 days. Stir daily to oxygenate and break down the gelatinous seed coating. After fermentation, rinse thoroughly and spread on a non-stick surface or mesh screen to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, airy location.
Once completely dry, store seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry place. Properly cured Thessaloniki seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes. Maintain at least 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Thessaloniki thrives in gardens that emphasize biodiversity and soil vitality. Interplanting with nectar-rich species like calendula, borage, or sweet alyssum encourages beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings, which reduce pest populations naturally.
Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to break pest and disease cycles. Avoid close planting with other nightshade crops (potatoes, peppers, eggplants), as they share common pests and pathogens.
Add compost annually to sustain microbial life and improve soil structure. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing between plants for optimal airflow and reduced fungal pressure.
While tomatoes are self-pollinating, pollinators such as bumblebees enhance fruit set consistency and shape. Maintaining flowering plant diversity ensures healthy pollinator activity across the growing season, fostering ecosystem balance.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Thessaloniki’s balanced flavor and firm texture make it ideal for both fresh and cooked dishes. Pair with Mediterranean ingredients — olive oil, feta, oregano, cucumber, and onion — for classic Greek-style salads or sandwiches.
Roasted Thessaloniki tomatoes develop a sweet-savory depth perfect for pasta sauces, stews, and tarts. Combine with garlic, basil, and caramelized onions for a traditional slow-roasted tomato relish.
For presentation, slice crosswise to reveal its symmetrical interior and rich color. Mixing Thessaloniki with golden or striped tomatoes creates vivid contrast in heirloom platters, while its dense flesh makes it excellent for layering in lasagna, casseroles, and summer vegetable stacks.
Harvesting:
Harvest fruits when they reach full, deep red coloration and feel firm yet slightly pliable when gently squeezed near the stem. Thessaloniki produces medium-sized, round fruits with smooth, uniform skin — a characteristic of its historic Greek breeding for consistency and market quality.
Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to detach fruits, leaving a short stem stub attached to reduce stem tearing and entry points for disease. Harvest regularly once ripening begins, typically every two to three days, to encourage continued flowering and production throughout the season.
Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation, as surface moisture may reduce flavor intensity and increase cracking risk. For slightly underripe fruits, ripen indoors at room temperature in moderate light; avoid windowsills where excessive heat can cause uneven softening.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Thessaloniki offers a classic Mediterranean flavor — full-bodied, sweet yet balanced with a refreshing acidity and subtle earthy depth. The flesh is dense, smooth, and meaty with minimal seeds, making it ideal for both fresh and cooked applications.
This tomato excels in salads, sandwiches, and sauces alike. When eaten fresh, its flavor is bright and clean, while roasting or simmering brings out its rich, savory-sweet depth. Thessaloniki’s firm texture allows it to hold its shape during cooking, making it excellent for baked dishes, soups, and canning.
Its balanced flavor makes it a reliable all-purpose tomato — equally fitting for gourmet plating, bruschetta, or traditional Mediterranean sauces paired with olive oil, garlic, and herbs such as oregano and thyme.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruit at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a cool, ventilated space with moderate humidity. Avoid refrigeration unless the fruit is overripe, as cold storage reduces aromatic compounds and texture quality.
Arrange fruit in a single layer, stem-side down, on paper or cloth to prevent bruising. Thessaloniki’s firm skin resists cracking, making it slightly more durable than many heirlooms, but care should still be taken to avoid compression during storage or transport.
For short-term holding, use breathable containers or trays. Harvesting just before full ripeness extends shelf life without compromising sweetness — fruits will continue to color and develop flavor indoors over several days.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Thessaloniki requires consistent pruning and robust support. Provide strong cages, trellises, or stakes at least 6 feet tall, as vines are vigorous and fruit-laden.
Remove lower leaves once the plant is well established to increase airflow and prevent soil splash. Pinch out small suckers below the first flower cluster to direct growth toward fruiting stems, but maintain upper foliage to protect against sunscald.
Thessaloniki is naturally disease-tolerant compared to many heirlooms but benefits from regular maintenance pruning to enhance air circulation and reduce the risk of foliar diseases such as septoria or early blight.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to ensure strong growth and full flavor development. In regions of high summer heat (above 95°F / 35°C), offer partial afternoon shade to prevent fruit softening and maintain vibrant color.
Maintain even soil moisture through deep watering once or twice per week. Inconsistent watering can cause cracking, uneven ripening, or blossom-end rot. Mulch with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once soil has warmed to stabilize temperature, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the roots, keeping foliage dry and minimizing disease risk. Avoid overwatering late in the fruiting stage — moderate dryness near ripening can intensify flavor concentration.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from the healthiest, most productive plants producing uniform, medium-sized fruits with smooth skin and true Thessaloniki form. Allow fruits chosen for seed saving to ripen fully on the vine to ensure mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with a small amount of water and ferment for 2–3 days. Stir daily to oxygenate and break down the gelatinous seed coating. After fermentation, rinse thoroughly and spread on a non-stick surface or mesh screen to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, airy location.
Once completely dry, store seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry place. Properly cured Thessaloniki seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes. Maintain at least 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Thessaloniki thrives in gardens that emphasize biodiversity and soil vitality. Interplanting with nectar-rich species like calendula, borage, or sweet alyssum encourages beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings, which reduce pest populations naturally.
Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to break pest and disease cycles. Avoid close planting with other nightshade crops (potatoes, peppers, eggplants), as they share common pests and pathogens.
Add compost annually to sustain microbial life and improve soil structure. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing between plants for optimal airflow and reduced fungal pressure.
While tomatoes are self-pollinating, pollinators such as bumblebees enhance fruit set consistency and shape. Maintaining flowering plant diversity ensures healthy pollinator activity across the growing season, fostering ecosystem balance.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Thessaloniki’s balanced flavor and firm texture make it ideal for both fresh and cooked dishes. Pair with Mediterranean ingredients — olive oil, feta, oregano, cucumber, and onion — for classic Greek-style salads or sandwiches.
Roasted Thessaloniki tomatoes develop a sweet-savory depth perfect for pasta sauces, stews, and tarts. Combine with garlic, basil, and caramelized onions for a traditional slow-roasted tomato relish.
For presentation, slice crosswise to reveal its symmetrical interior and rich color. Mixing Thessaloniki with golden or striped tomatoes creates vivid contrast in heirloom platters, while its dense flesh makes it excellent for layering in lasagna, casseroles, and summer vegetable stacks.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Thessaloniki' (Solanum lycopersicum)Insects & MitesTomato Hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) (defoliation, large green caterpillars)Controls: Handpick caterpillars in early morning or evening. Introduce beneficial insects like parasitic wasps. Use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) as a biological control.Whiteflies (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) (yellowing leaves, honeydew/sooty mold)Controls: Use yellow sticky traps to monitor and reduce populations. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil bi-weekly. Encourage natural predators such as lady beetles and lacewings.DiseasesEarly Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark spots with concentric rings, yellowing leaves)Controls: Rotate crops annually. Apply copper-based fungicides at first sign of disease. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation.Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans) (water-soaked lesions, rapid plant collapse)Controls: Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Use resistant varieties and apply fungicides preventatively during wet weather.Physiological & Environmental IssuesBlossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, darkened sunken spots on fruit)Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization. Apply calcium sprays if necessary.Sunscald (excessive sun exposure, white patches on fruit)Controls: Provide shade during peak sun hours. Ensure adequate foliage cover by maintaining plant health.Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist- Inspect plants regularly for signs of pests and diseases.- Use crop rotation and companion planting to deter pests.- Maintain proper watering and fertilization practices.- Encourage beneficial insects by planting diverse flowering plants.- Apply organic or chemical controls as needed, following label instructions.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Thessaloniki Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Thessaloniki?
Thessaloniki is an indeterminate, open-pollinated heirloom tomato originating from Greece. It produces smooth, round, red fruits about 6–8 ounces each, celebrated for their balanced, old-fashioned tomato flavor and resistance to cracking and sunscald.
Q: How long does Thessaloniki take to mature?
Expect 70–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit. It’s a midseason variety known for steady, abundant yields through summer.
Q: How long does it take for Thessaloniki seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 6–10 days when kept between 75–90°F (24–32°C) with steady moisture and warmth.
Q: Does Thessaloniki need special soil conditions?
Yes — it thrives in rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Compost and organic fertilizer improve fruit set and flavor depth.
Q: What spacing do Thessaloniki tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 3–4 feet apart. Provide sturdy staking or caging, as the plants are tall and productive.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Thessaloniki tomatoes are self-pollinating, though airflow and pollinator activity help maximize yield.
Q: Can I grow Thessaloniki in containers?
Yes, with care. Use a container of at least 10–15 gallons with nutrient-rich soil and strong support, as the vines are vigorous.
Q: How tall do Thessaloniki plants get?
Plants can reach 5–6 feet tall when supported. Pruning improves airflow and helps focus energy on fruiting.
Q: Why are my Thessaloniki fruits cracking or splitting?
This variety is naturally resistant to cracking, but severe watering fluctuations can still cause splits. Keep soil moisture even and use mulch to regulate conditions.
Q: Why aren’t my fruits ripening evenly?
Cool nights or excess nitrogen can slow ripening. Ensure steady warmth and full sun for consistent coloration.
Q: How should I harvest Thessaloniki tomatoes?
Pick when fully red and slightly firm to the touch. Harvest regularly to encourage continued fruiting.
Q: How do I store Thessaloniki tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a single layer. Avoid refrigeration unless fruits are overripe.
Q: Are Thessaloniki tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their meaty texture and balanced acidity make them excellent for canning, sauces, and fresh slicing.
Q: Are Thessaloniki tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Thessaloniki is a Greek heirloom introduced to the U.S. by the USDA in the 1950s, valued for its reliability and robust flavor.
Q: Why are my tomatoes smaller than expected?
Stress from drought or overcrowding can reduce fruit size. Maintain steady watering and proper spacing to improve yields.
Q: Can I save seeds from Thessaloniki?
Yes — it’s open-pollinated. Choose healthy, ripe fruits, ferment seeds for 2–3 days in water, rinse clean, and dry thoroughly before storing.
Q: What type of tomato is Thessaloniki?
Thessaloniki is an indeterminate, open-pollinated heirloom tomato originating from Greece. It produces smooth, round, red fruits about 6–8 ounces each, celebrated for their balanced, old-fashioned tomato flavor and resistance to cracking and sunscald.
Q: How long does Thessaloniki take to mature?
Expect 70–80 days from transplant to first ripe fruit. It’s a midseason variety known for steady, abundant yields through summer.
Q: How long does it take for Thessaloniki seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 6–10 days when kept between 75–90°F (24–32°C) with steady moisture and warmth.
Q: Does Thessaloniki need special soil conditions?
Yes — it thrives in rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Compost and organic fertilizer improve fruit set and flavor depth.
Q: What spacing do Thessaloniki tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 3–4 feet apart. Provide sturdy staking or caging, as the plants are tall and productive.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Thessaloniki tomatoes are self-pollinating, though airflow and pollinator activity help maximize yield.
Q: Can I grow Thessaloniki in containers?
Yes, with care. Use a container of at least 10–15 gallons with nutrient-rich soil and strong support, as the vines are vigorous.
Q: How tall do Thessaloniki plants get?
Plants can reach 5–6 feet tall when supported. Pruning improves airflow and helps focus energy on fruiting.
Q: Why are my Thessaloniki fruits cracking or splitting?
This variety is naturally resistant to cracking, but severe watering fluctuations can still cause splits. Keep soil moisture even and use mulch to regulate conditions.
Q: Why aren’t my fruits ripening evenly?
Cool nights or excess nitrogen can slow ripening. Ensure steady warmth and full sun for consistent coloration.
Q: How should I harvest Thessaloniki tomatoes?
Pick when fully red and slightly firm to the touch. Harvest regularly to encourage continued fruiting.
Q: How do I store Thessaloniki tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a single layer. Avoid refrigeration unless fruits are overripe.
Q: Are Thessaloniki tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their meaty texture and balanced acidity make them excellent for canning, sauces, and fresh slicing.
Q: Are Thessaloniki tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Thessaloniki is a Greek heirloom introduced to the U.S. by the USDA in the 1950s, valued for its reliability and robust flavor.
Q: Why are my tomatoes smaller than expected?
Stress from drought or overcrowding can reduce fruit size. Maintain steady watering and proper spacing to improve yields.
Q: Can I save seeds from Thessaloniki?
Yes — it’s open-pollinated. Choose healthy, ripe fruits, ferment seeds for 2–3 days in water, rinse clean, and dry thoroughly before storing.
📍
ZIP
— Change
🚚
●
Checking local suitability…
🎉
Free shipping on $25+ orders.
🌱
Average Last Frost
—
❄️
Average First Frost
—
From Seed Indoors (Spring)
Start: —
From Plant (Spring)
Transplant: —
Fall Planting
Start/Direct sow: —
Transplant: —
Expected Harvest
Window: —
Is this a good fit for your garden?
●
Answer the checklist to see your fit
History & Culture — Thessaloniki Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Thessaloniki Tomato traces its heritage to Greece, where it was developed by the Agricultural University of Thessaloniki in the 1950s. Bred for productivity, disease resistance, and exceptional flavor under Mediterranean conditions, it soon became beloved by local farmers and gardeners for its balanced sweetness and old-world richness. Named for the historic port city of Thessaloniki — a crossroads of trade and culture for millennia — this tomato reflects a region where agriculture and exchange have long shaped human life.
Though its creation was scientific, its roots remain cultural. Greek growers continued the ancient tradition of seed stewardship, adapting and selecting varieties suited to their soils and climates — a continuation of the same process that began thousands of years earlier in Indigenous American fields. The Thessaloniki thus stands as both a modern cultivar and a reflection of ancient agricultural continuity across civilizations.
In today’s gardens, the Thessaloniki Tomato thrives as a dependable heirloom, merging resilience with taste. Each red globe honors the legacy of Indigenous domestication carried across oceans and reborn in Mediterranean earth, a reminder that the story of the tomato — like the seed itself — belongs to all who keep it alive.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Thessaloniki Tomato traces its heritage to Greece, where it was developed by the Agricultural University of Thessaloniki in the 1950s. Bred for productivity, disease resistance, and exceptional flavor under Mediterranean conditions, it soon became beloved by local farmers and gardeners for its balanced sweetness and old-world richness. Named for the historic port city of Thessaloniki — a crossroads of trade and culture for millennia — this tomato reflects a region where agriculture and exchange have long shaped human life.
Though its creation was scientific, its roots remain cultural. Greek growers continued the ancient tradition of seed stewardship, adapting and selecting varieties suited to their soils and climates — a continuation of the same process that began thousands of years earlier in Indigenous American fields. The Thessaloniki thus stands as both a modern cultivar and a reflection of ancient agricultural continuity across civilizations.
In today’s gardens, the Thessaloniki Tomato thrives as a dependable heirloom, merging resilience with taste. Each red globe honors the legacy of Indigenous domestication carried across oceans and reborn in Mediterranean earth, a reminder that the story of the tomato — like the seed itself — belongs to all who keep it alive.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
Payment methods
Your payment information is processed securely. We do not store credit card details nor have access to your credit card information.
Join Our Newsletter for Exclusive Savings!
Sign up for our newsletter to get a 30% discount code sent straight to your inbox. If it doesn’t appear right away, please check your inbox settings, and if you still need help, we’re here to assist!
