Pepper Seeds - Hot - Bhut Jolokia (Red Ghost)

Description

• Start indoors: 10–12 weeks before your last frost
  
• Sow depth: ¼ inch (6 mm) in sterile seed-starting mix
  
• Germination temp: 80–90°F (27–32°C) — use a heat mat
  
• Germination time: 10–35+ days (be patient; super hots are slow)
  
• Light for seedlings: 16 hours on / 8 hours off, lights 2–4 in (5–10 cm) above canopy
  
• Transplant spacing: 18–24 in (45–60 cm) between plants; 24–36 in (60–90 cm) between rows
  
• Transplant conditions: Nights ≥ 60°F (16°C); soil ≥ 65°F (18°C)
  
• Container minimum: 5 gal (19 L) — 7–10 gal (26–38 L) ideal for yield
  

Sowing Indoors

1. Fill & pre-moisten
   Use a fine, sterile seed-starting mix. Moisten so it’s evenly damp, not soggy.
   
2. Optional pre-soak (helps slow starters)
   Soak seeds 8–12 hours in room-temp water (you may add a tiny drop of unscented dish soap or 1–2% hydrogen peroxide to improve wetting and sanitation). Rinse before sowing.
   
3. Sow
   Make shallow dibbles and sow 1–2 seeds per cell or plug ¼ in (6 mm) deep. Cover lightly and firm.
   
4. Heat & humidity
   Place trays on a heat mat set to 85°F (29°C) (acceptable range 80–90°F / 27–32°C). Cover with a humidity dome to maintain 70–90% RH. Vent daily to refresh air and prevent damping-off.
   
5. Moisture management
   Keep consistently moist with a fine mist or bottom-water. Never let mix dry out; never let it stay waterlogged.
   
6. Light
   Light is not required until emergence. Once sprouts appear (often 10–35+ days), remove the dome and provide strong light: 16 hours on / 8 hours off. Keep LEDs or fluorescents 2–4 in (5–10 cm) above the leaves and raise as plants grow.
   
7. Airflow & temperature
   Provide gentle airflow to strengthen stems. Day temps 72–80°F (22–27°C), nights 65–72°F (18–22°C).
   
8. Feeding (go light)
   Begin feeding at 3–4 weeks with a half-strength, balanced, soluble fertilizer every 7–10 days. Too much nitrogen causes leafy plants with delayed fruiting.
   
9. Thin & up-pot
   Snip weaker seedlings at soil line. When plants have 3–4 true leaves or outgrow cells, transplant into 3–4 in (7.5–10 cm) pots using a high-quality, well-drained mix.
   

Hardening Off (7–10 days)

1. Start in bright shade outdoors for a few hours, then increase time and sun exposure daily.
   
2. Protect from wind, midday sun, and temps <55°F (13°C).
   
3. If cold threatens, bring plants in for the night and resume the next day. This step reduces transplant shock and sunscald.
   

Planting Outdoors (or in Tunnels)

1. Site & soil
   Full sun (8+ hours). Loose, fertile, well-drained soil, pH 6.0–6.8. Avoid beds that grew tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or potatoes last year.
   
2. Warm the ground
   A week before planting, lay dark mulch or landscape fabric to raise soil temperature and suppress weeds.
   
3. When to transplant
   After danger of frost and when nights hold ≥ 60°F (16°C) and soil is ≥ 65°F (18°C). Cold soils stunt super hots.
   
4. Spacing
   Set plants 18–24 in (45–60 cm) apart; space rows 24–36 in (60–90 cm) apart.
   
5. Planting
   Dig holes to fit root balls. Tease roots lightly if pot-bound. Plant at the same depth, firm soil, and create a shallow basin to hold water.
   
6. Water-in
   Drench each plant so water puddles in the basin, removing air pockets and ensuring root–soil contact. Mulch after soil warms to conserve moisture.
   
7. Staking (recommended)
   Tall super hots benefit from a stake or small cage to prevent wind breakage and to keep fruit off the soil.
   

Containers

• Size: Minimum 5 gal (19 L) per plant; 7–10 gal (26–38 L) is ideal for top yields.
  
• Mix: High-quality potting mix with excellent drainage (not garden soil).
  
• Water & feed: Containers dry faster—water deeply when the top inch is dry. Feed lightly but regularly (every 7–10 days) with a balanced or bloom-leaning soluble fertilizer once plants begin to bud.

Care After Planting

• Water: Keep evenly moist; allow the top 1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) to dry between waterings. Irregular moisture can cause blossom drop and misshapen fruit.
  
• Fertilizer: Moderate feeders. Too much nitrogen delays fruiting. Consider a calcium/magnesium supplement if your water is soft.
  
• Temperature: Flower set suffers below 60°F (16°C) and above 95°F (35°C). Provide shade cloth during extreme heat and row cover on cool nights.
  
• Pruning: Light tipping can encourage branching; avoid heavy pruning. Remove early buds on small transplants so plants establish first.
  
• Pests: Scout weekly for aphids, mites, and thrips. Manage early with physical removal or appropriate controls.
  

Troubleshooting (Quick Diagnostics)

• No germination after 3–4 weeks: Temp too low; medium dried out; old seed; try a gentle re-warm and keep consistent moisture.
  
• Leggy, weak seedlings: Insufficient light or lights too far; increase intensity and reduce heat without reducing root-zone warmth.
  
• Purple or dark foliage in seedlings: Cold stress or transient phosphorus lockout; warm the root zone.
  
• Blossom drop: Heat/cold stress, drought, or overfertilization with nitrogen; correct environment and watering.
  
• Sunscald on fruit: Provide better leaf cover or 30–40% shade cloth in extreme sun.
  

Site & Soil Prep

• Sun: Full sun (8+ hours) for best heat and yield
• Soil: Loose, fertile, and well-drained; target pH 6.0–6.8
• Amend: Mix in 2–3 in (5–7.5 cm) of finished compost plus a light application of a balanced organic fertilizer at planting; avoid heavy nitrogen up front (delays fruiting)
• Rotation: Do not follow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or potatoes the prior year
  

Watering (Consistency is Everything)

• Keep soil evenly moist—aim for ~1–1½ in (2.5–4 cm) water/week including rain
• Water deeply and less often to encourage strong roots; avoid waterlogging
• Container plants dry faster—check daily in hot weather and water when top 1 in (2.5 cm) is dry
• Mulch after soils warm to reduce evaporation and prevent swings that cause blossom drop
  

Feeding (Light but Regular)

• At transplant: Light, balanced feed mixed into the planting hole
• Vegetative stage: Modest nitrogen; over-feeding = lush leaves, late fruit
• Budding/fruiting: Shift toward K-forward nutrition (still balanced overall) every 10–14 days (containers: every 7–10 days at lower strength)
• Calcium/Magnesium: Supplement if your water is soft to reduce blossom-end rot–like symptoms
  

Temperature & Season Management

• Ideal: Days 75–90°F (24–32°C); nights 60–75°F (16–24°C)
• Stress thresholds: Flower set suffers <60°F (16°C) and >95°F (35°C)
• Heat waves: Use 30–40% shade cloth midday; water in the morning to reduce stress
• Cool snaps: Cover with row cover at night; keep root zone warm with dark mulch or fabric
  

Training, Pruning & Support

• Staking/Caging: Recommended—heavy fruit and winds can snap branches
• Pruning: Light tipping early can increase branching; avoid heavy pruning on mature plants
• Sanitation: Remove damaged leaves/branches to improve airflow and reduce disease pressure
  

Mulch & Weed Control

• Apply 2–3 in (5–7.5 cm) organic mulch once the soil is warm
• Suppresses weeds, evens soil moisture, and protects fruit from soil splash
  

Pollination

• Peppers are self-fertile; gentle airflow and pollinators improve set
• Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides during bloom; encourage beneficials
  

Pests & Diseases (IPM Quick Guide)

Scout weekly. Treat early and choose the least-disruptive option first.

• Aphids, thrips, spider mites, whiteflies: Blast with water; use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil; increase airflow and avoid plant stress
• Pepper weevil/fruit borers (region-dependent): Remove infested fruit; keep area clean; consider fine mesh exclusion
• Slugs/snails: Hand-pick; traps; keep mulch pulled back from stems
• Bacterial leaf spot, anthracnose: Rotate annually; water at soil level; remove infected tissue; sanitize tools
• Viruses: Do not smoke/handle tobacco around plants; wash hands; rogue symptomatic plants promptly
  

Common Physiological Issues

• Blossom drop: Heat/cold stress, drought, or high nitrogen—stabilize environment and moisture
• Sunscald on fruit: Provide better canopy or temporary shade in extreme sun
• “BER-like” spots: Irregular watering or low Ca/Mg—correct moisture and supplement if needed
• Leggy growth: Insufficient light or excess nitrogen—adjust both
  

Harvest & Handling (Super-Hot Safety)

• Harvest when fruit is fully colored and firm; flavor and heat peak at full maturity
• Wear gloves (and consider eye protection). Do not touch eyes/face.
• Use clean, sharp snips to avoid branch damage
• Post-harvest: Refrigerate unwashed fruit in breathable bag up to 1–2 weeks; for long-term, dry at low heat (110–125°F / 43–52°C) until brittle, or freeze whole fruit
  

Containers (Performance Tips)

• Volume: Minimum 5 gal (19 L); 7–10 gal (26–38 L) ideal
• Medium: High-quality potting mix; add perlite/pumice for drainage
• Fertility: Regular, dilute feed; flush with clear water monthly to avoid salt buildup
• Support: Stake/cage from the start to avoid disturbing roots later
  

Overwintering (Perennializing C. chinense)

In frost-free or protected conditions, super hots can live multiple years.

1. Before first frost, prune lightly (remove flowers/immature fruit)
   
2. Pot up if in ground; keep at ≥60°F (16°C) with bright light
   
3. Water sparingly in winter—just enough to prevent wilt
   
4. In spring, up-pot/refresh mix, resume feeding, and re-acclimate outdoors
   

Seed Saving — Super Hot Peppers (C. chinense)

Isolation & Purity

1. Isolation distance: For home seed use, keep different pepper varieties 50–150 ft (15–45 m) apart with windbreaks; for higher purity, 300+ ft (90+ m).
   
2. Physical controls: For maximum purity, bag a few branches before bloom or cage entire plants with insect netting; introduce pollinators inside cages if needed.
   
3. Species note: C. chinense readily crosses with other C. chinense and can occasionally cross with C. annuum; isolate accordingly.
   

Parent Selection

4. Select true-to-type, disease-free plants with excellent flavor, yield, pod shape, and heat profile.

5. Rogue off-types early (flowering through fruit set).

Harvest & Processing

6. Harvest fully ripe pods (deep final color).

7. Wet extraction (recommended):

• Split pods and scrape seeds into a jar with a little water
• Optional 12–24 hr fermentation loosens pulp; do not over-ferment (can reduce viability)
• Rinse in a fine sieve until seeds are clean and sink
  

1. Drying: Spread in a single layer on a non-stick surface; dry with steady airflow and shade at ≤95°F (35°C) until snaps, not bends (7–14 days depending on humidity).
   

Storage & Viability

9. Label with variety, species, and year.

10. Store cool, dark, and dry: ~40°F (4–5°C) with low humidity in airtight containers.

11. Viability: 3–5 years typical under good storage; test yearly with a 10-seed germination check (aim ≥75%).

Safety
12. Wear gloves when processing seeds from super hots; dust is potent. Clean tools and surfaces thoroughly.

Troubleshooting (Quick Reference)

• Stalled plants early season → Soil too cold; use dark mulch or fabric, delay feeding heavy N
• Flowers but no fruit → Temps outside ideal range; uneven moisture; excess N; improve pollination airflow
• Leaves cupping or bronzing → Mites or thrips; inspect undersides; treat promptly with soap/oil and increase humidity/airflow
• Bitter/off flavors → Drought stress or nutrient imbalance late; maintain even moisture and balanced feeding