Loading...
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Arkansas Traveler Slicing
Southern heirloom bred for flavor and heat tolerance; dependable performance under high temperatures and humidity.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM42
No reviews
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Developed by the University of Arkansas and released in 1968, the Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a classic Southern heirloom bred to endure high heat and humidity without sacrificing flavor. Its reputation for dependability, resilience, and rich taste has made it a staple among gardeners across the Southeast and beyond.
Fruits are 6–8 ounces, round to slightly oblate, with smooth rose-pink skin and firm, juicy flesh. Flavor is well-balanced—mild yet complex, with a gentle sweetness and low acidity that make it equally suited for fresh slicing and light cooking. Unlike many modern hybrids, Arkansas Traveler maintains crack resistance and consistent fruiting even under stress, thriving where summer temperatures climb and rainfall fluctuates.
Plants are indeterminate, vigorous, and productive over a long season, typically reaching 5–6 feet tall. Fruits ripen in about 80–85 days from transplant and continue setting through heat waves that often stop other varieties.
Ideal for fresh eating, sandwiches, and salads, yet versatile enough for canning or roasting, this variety offers both reliability and old-fashioned tomato flavor. For growers in warm or humid climates, the Arkansas Traveler remains one of the most trusted open-pollinated slicers ever bred in America—smooth, hardy, and flavorful from first harvest to frost.
$200 USD
$493
Unit price
/
Unavailable
Secure checkout
Details
Your payment is processed securely via trusted gateways. We do not store credit card details and we do not have access to your card information.
Couldn't load pickup availability
Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
30 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Stake
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
In-ground bed, Raised bed, Containers, High Tunnel, Community garden, Vertical
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, depending on rainfall and temperature. Deep, infrequent watering develops stronger roots and improves drought resilience.
Water at soil level with drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep foliage dry and reduce fungal risk.
During high heat, water early in the morning to prevent stress and blossom drop.
Avoid sudden heavy watering after drought periods — it can cause fruit cracking or blossom end rot.
Maintain 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizing
Before transplanting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the bed.
Feed every 2–3 weeks using a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) or organic equivalent until flowering begins.
When blooms appear, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to encourage fruiting.
Top-dress mid-season with compost or kelp meal to sustain vigor through long harvests.
Avoid over-fertilization with nitrogen — this promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the planting area weed-free, especially early in the season when young plants establish.
Weeds compete for nutrients and harbor pests like aphids and flea beetles.
Once soil warms, apply mulch 2–3 inches thick to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and prevent soil splash — a common vector for fungal spores.
Organic mulches such as straw, compost, or leaf mold work best; black plastic mulch may be used early to warm spring soil.
Sun & Heat Management
Arkansas Traveler is highly heat-tolerant, but sustained temperatures above 95°F (35°C) can still slow fruit set.
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for best yield and flavor.
During extreme heat, use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and maintain pollination.
Ensure open spacing between plants for good airflow, which helps prevent mildew and leaf spot.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to promote airflow and easy maintenance.
Support indeterminate vines with sturdy stakes, cages, or a trellis system to prevent lodging and disease from soil contact.
Tie plants loosely using soft twine or cloth to avoid stem damage as they grow.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, parsley, onions, carrots, marigolds, and garlic — they deter nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies.
Avoid: Fennel and potatoes, which can stunt growth or spread disease.
Tip: Interplant with flowering herbs (dill, cilantro, or borage) to attract bees and parasitic wasps for natural pest balance.
Container Growing
Arkansas Traveler performs well in large containers (15–20 gallons) with good drainage.
Use a high-quality, compost-enriched potting mix.
Container soil dries faster — check moisture daily during hot weather.
Feed lightly every two weeks with liquid seaweed or compost tea, as nutrients leach quickly from pots.
Shade the container sides during peak summer to keep roots below 85°F (29°C).
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels to start plants earlier in spring or extend fruiting into fall.
In cooler climates, black plastic mulch can pre-warm soil for early growth.
In frost-free regions, late plantings can continue producing well into early winter.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, depending on rainfall and temperature. Deep, infrequent watering develops stronger roots and improves drought resilience.
Water at soil level with drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep foliage dry and reduce fungal risk.
During high heat, water early in the morning to prevent stress and blossom drop.
Avoid sudden heavy watering after drought periods — it can cause fruit cracking or blossom end rot.
Maintain 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizing
Before transplanting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the bed.
Feed every 2–3 weeks using a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) or organic equivalent until flowering begins.
When blooms appear, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to encourage fruiting.
Top-dress mid-season with compost or kelp meal to sustain vigor through long harvests.
Avoid over-fertilization with nitrogen — this promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the planting area weed-free, especially early in the season when young plants establish.
Weeds compete for nutrients and harbor pests like aphids and flea beetles.
Once soil warms, apply mulch 2–3 inches thick to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and prevent soil splash — a common vector for fungal spores.
Organic mulches such as straw, compost, or leaf mold work best; black plastic mulch may be used early to warm spring soil.
Sun & Heat Management
Arkansas Traveler is highly heat-tolerant, but sustained temperatures above 95°F (35°C) can still slow fruit set.
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for best yield and flavor.
During extreme heat, use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and maintain pollination.
Ensure open spacing between plants for good airflow, which helps prevent mildew and leaf spot.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to promote airflow and easy maintenance.
Support indeterminate vines with sturdy stakes, cages, or a trellis system to prevent lodging and disease from soil contact.
Tie plants loosely using soft twine or cloth to avoid stem damage as they grow.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, parsley, onions, carrots, marigolds, and garlic — they deter nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies.
Avoid: Fennel and potatoes, which can stunt growth or spread disease.
Tip: Interplant with flowering herbs (dill, cilantro, or borage) to attract bees and parasitic wasps for natural pest balance.
Container Growing
Arkansas Traveler performs well in large containers (15–20 gallons) with good drainage.
Use a high-quality, compost-enriched potting mix.
Container soil dries faster — check moisture daily during hot weather.
Feed lightly every two weeks with liquid seaweed or compost tea, as nutrients leach quickly from pots.
Shade the container sides during peak summer to keep roots below 85°F (29°C).
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels to start plants earlier in spring or extend fruiting into fall.
In cooler climates, black plastic mulch can pre-warm soil for early growth.
In frost-free regions, late plantings can continue producing well into early winter.
Additional Tips – Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest fruits when they reach a uniform rose-pink color and yield slightly to gentle pressure. Arkansas Traveler develops full sweetness and flavor when allowed to ripen on the vine but can be picked slightly early and finished indoors to avoid splitting during wet spells.
Technique:
Cut fruits cleanly from the vine using pruning shears or scissors, leaving a small stem attached. Avoid pulling fruit, which can tear branches or bruise the shoulders.
Frequency:
Harvest every 2–3 days during peak production. Regular picking encourages new flowering and continuous fruit set.
Maturity Signs:
Even pink coloring, slight softness at the blossom end, and a mild tomato aroma. Shoulders may remain slightly lighter — a normal trait of the variety.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Balanced and mild with subtle sweetness and low acidity. Excellent for sandwiches, salads, and fresh table use. Unlike modern hybrids, the flesh retains old-fashioned density and juiciness without being watery.
Nutritional Value:
Rich in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene, a natural antioxidant associated with cardiovascular and skin health.
Flavor Tip:
Consistent watering and moderate fertility enhance sweetness. Avoid overwatering near ripening — mild moisture stress deepens color and improves flavor concentration.
Handling & Post-Harvest Care
Handle gently to prevent bruising and cracking. Avoid stacking fruit more than two layers deep in harvest baskets.
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight.
Do not refrigerate until fully ripe, as cold storage dulls flavor and texture.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Use:
Best within 3–5 days after harvest. Store stem-side up to reduce bruising.
Freezing:
Core and quarter ripe tomatoes. Freeze on trays before transferring to bags for sauces, soups, and stews.
Canning:
Suitable for light canning or stewed tomatoes. Add lemon juice or citric acid per safe-canning guidelines.
Roasting:
Slice or halve, drizzle with oil, and roast at 375°F (190°C) until lightly caramelized for freezer storage or blending into sauces.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Ideal for sandwiches, salads, and tomato-based salsas where a mild, sweet flavor is desired.
Cooked:
Excellent for roasting, grilling, and blending into rustic soups and stews.
Pairings:
Pairs beautifully with basil, parsley, garlic, onion, mozzarella, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate vines reach 5–6 feet and require sturdy support.
Pruning:
Remove the bottom 6–8 inches of leaves after establishment to reduce soil splash and disease pressure.
Limit pruning above this level to suckers below the first flower cluster; retain some foliage to shade fruit and prevent sunscald.
Soil Care:
Keep mulch in place throughout the season. Add compost midseason to maintain nutrient levels and soil life.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 15–20 gallons with deep, well-drained soil.
Drainage:
Essential — excess moisture promotes root rot and nutrient loss.
Watering Rhythm:
Water deeply when the top inch of soil dries. Avoid shallow, frequent watering, which weakens roots and encourages cracking.
Heat Protection:
Shade container sides during extreme heat to prevent root overheating.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, parsley, marigold, garlic, onions, and carrots attract pollinators and repel pests.
Trap Crops:
Radish and nasturtium can divert flea beetles and aphids.
Pollination Tip:
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but bee activity increases fruit size and set rate. Gently shake or tap flowering branches at midday during calm weather to release pollen.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose seed from fully ripe, true-to-type fruits on healthy, productive plants. Avoid saving from early or diseased fruit.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds and pulp into a glass jar with water.
Allow to ferment 2–3 days, stirring daily.
When a thin film forms, rinse thoroughly and strain viable seeds (which sink).
Spread to dry on paper or mesh for 7–10 days in a shaded, airy place.
Storage:
Once completely dry, store in airtight containers with desiccant packs in a cool, dark space.
Viability:
Seeds remain viable for 4–6 years when stored properly.
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest fruits when they reach a uniform rose-pink color and yield slightly to gentle pressure. Arkansas Traveler develops full sweetness and flavor when allowed to ripen on the vine but can be picked slightly early and finished indoors to avoid splitting during wet spells.
Technique:
Cut fruits cleanly from the vine using pruning shears or scissors, leaving a small stem attached. Avoid pulling fruit, which can tear branches or bruise the shoulders.
Frequency:
Harvest every 2–3 days during peak production. Regular picking encourages new flowering and continuous fruit set.
Maturity Signs:
Even pink coloring, slight softness at the blossom end, and a mild tomato aroma. Shoulders may remain slightly lighter — a normal trait of the variety.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Balanced and mild with subtle sweetness and low acidity. Excellent for sandwiches, salads, and fresh table use. Unlike modern hybrids, the flesh retains old-fashioned density and juiciness without being watery.
Nutritional Value:
Rich in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene, a natural antioxidant associated with cardiovascular and skin health.
Flavor Tip:
Consistent watering and moderate fertility enhance sweetness. Avoid overwatering near ripening — mild moisture stress deepens color and improves flavor concentration.
Handling & Post-Harvest Care
Handle gently to prevent bruising and cracking. Avoid stacking fruit more than two layers deep in harvest baskets.
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight.
Do not refrigerate until fully ripe, as cold storage dulls flavor and texture.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Use:
Best within 3–5 days after harvest. Store stem-side up to reduce bruising.
Freezing:
Core and quarter ripe tomatoes. Freeze on trays before transferring to bags for sauces, soups, and stews.
Canning:
Suitable for light canning or stewed tomatoes. Add lemon juice or citric acid per safe-canning guidelines.
Roasting:
Slice or halve, drizzle with oil, and roast at 375°F (190°C) until lightly caramelized for freezer storage or blending into sauces.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Ideal for sandwiches, salads, and tomato-based salsas where a mild, sweet flavor is desired.
Cooked:
Excellent for roasting, grilling, and blending into rustic soups and stews.
Pairings:
Pairs beautifully with basil, parsley, garlic, onion, mozzarella, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate vines reach 5–6 feet and require sturdy support.
Pruning:
Remove the bottom 6–8 inches of leaves after establishment to reduce soil splash and disease pressure.
Limit pruning above this level to suckers below the first flower cluster; retain some foliage to shade fruit and prevent sunscald.
Soil Care:
Keep mulch in place throughout the season. Add compost midseason to maintain nutrient levels and soil life.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 15–20 gallons with deep, well-drained soil.
Drainage:
Essential — excess moisture promotes root rot and nutrient loss.
Watering Rhythm:
Water deeply when the top inch of soil dries. Avoid shallow, frequent watering, which weakens roots and encourages cracking.
Heat Protection:
Shade container sides during extreme heat to prevent root overheating.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, parsley, marigold, garlic, onions, and carrots attract pollinators and repel pests.
Trap Crops:
Radish and nasturtium can divert flea beetles and aphids.
Pollination Tip:
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but bee activity increases fruit size and set rate. Gently shake or tap flowering branches at midday during calm weather to release pollen.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose seed from fully ripe, true-to-type fruits on healthy, productive plants. Avoid saving from early or diseased fruit.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds and pulp into a glass jar with water.
Allow to ferment 2–3 days, stirring daily.
When a thin film forms, rinse thoroughly and strain viable seeds (which sink).
Spread to dry on paper or mesh for 7–10 days in a shaded, airy place.
Storage:
Once completely dry, store in airtight containers with desiccant packs in a cool, dark space.
Viability:
Seeds remain viable for 4–6 years when stored properly.
Common Pests & Problems – Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insect Pests
Tomato Hornworm:
Large green caterpillars that rapidly defoliate plants and feed on fruit. Handpick at dusk or dawn when most active. Encourage beneficial predators such as parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) and birds. Companion planting with basil or marigold helps deter egg-laying.
Aphids:
Tiny green or black insects clustering on leaf undersides and new growth. Cause curling leaves and honeydew buildup. Control with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or strong water sprays every 2–3 days. Interplant onions or garlic to discourage them naturally.
Whiteflies:
Common in greenhouses or humid gardens, causing yellowing and sticky residue. Use yellow sticky traps, increase airflow, and apply horticultural oil under leaves weekly until populations decline.
Spider Mites:
Microscopic sap-suckers that thrive in hot, dry weather, leaving stippled yellowing foliage. Maintain even soil moisture, mist leaves lightly during heat waves, and apply neem or sulfur dust if needed.
Cutworms:
Chew young transplants at soil level. Protect stems with cardboard collars or diatomaceous earth barriers. Keep beds free of weeds and debris to reduce habitat.
Diseases & Fungal Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
Brown concentric leaf spots appearing from the base upward. Rotate crops, avoid overhead watering, and prune lower foliage. Treat with copper fungicide or compost tea foliar spray at first sign. Maintain at least 24–36 inches spacing for airflow.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Tiny dark lesions that spread rapidly in humidity. Remove infected leaves immediately and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Weekly spraying with biofungicides (Bacillus subtilis) helps maintain control organically.
Fusarium Wilt (F) and Verticillium Wilt (V):
Soilborne diseases causing yellowing and wilt on one side of the plant. The Arkansas Traveler shows moderate tolerance, but practice strict crop rotation (3–4 years) and avoid planting after peppers, eggplant, or potatoes. Add mycorrhizal inoculants at planting to strengthen root health.
Anthracnose (Fruit Rot):
Circular sunken lesions on ripe fruit, especially after rain. Harvest promptly and avoid letting fruit contact the soil. Apply calcium-rich compost and ensure good drainage.
Cracking:
Caused by irregular watering or sudden rain after drought. Mulch deeply and maintain steady moisture. Harvest just as fruits blush to minimize splits.
Blossom End Rot:
Dark, sunken spots at fruit ends from calcium deficiency or erratic watering. Apply liquid calcium (cal-mag) or top-dress with crushed eggshells or bone meal early in the season. Keep moisture consistent; calcium uptake depends more on watering than soil supply.
Environmental Stress & Physiological Problems
Heat Stress:
While bred for heat tolerance, sustained temperatures above 95°F (35°C) can reduce fruit set. Provide 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat and water early in the morning to maintain turgor.
Humidity & Fungal Spread:
Dense canopies can trap moisture. Prune suckers selectively to promote airflow but avoid heavy defoliation. Mulching with straw or shredded leaves reduces splash transmission of soilborne spores.
Pollination Failure:
High heat or low humidity can cause blossoms to drop. Encourage bee activity and gently tap flowers midday to assist pollen release.
Organic Preventive Measures
Rotate crops annually, avoiding Solanaceae family sites for 3–4 years.
Mulch heavily to maintain soil health and humidity balance.
Use compost tea or seaweed extract every 2–3 weeks for disease resistance.
Maintain balanced feeding — excessive nitrogen increases disease risk.
Introduce beneficial insects (ladybugs, lacewings) to maintain pest balance naturally.
Insect Pests
Tomato Hornworm:
Large green caterpillars that rapidly defoliate plants and feed on fruit. Handpick at dusk or dawn when most active. Encourage beneficial predators such as parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) and birds. Companion planting with basil or marigold helps deter egg-laying.
Aphids:
Tiny green or black insects clustering on leaf undersides and new growth. Cause curling leaves and honeydew buildup. Control with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or strong water sprays every 2–3 days. Interplant onions or garlic to discourage them naturally.
Whiteflies:
Common in greenhouses or humid gardens, causing yellowing and sticky residue. Use yellow sticky traps, increase airflow, and apply horticultural oil under leaves weekly until populations decline.
Spider Mites:
Microscopic sap-suckers that thrive in hot, dry weather, leaving stippled yellowing foliage. Maintain even soil moisture, mist leaves lightly during heat waves, and apply neem or sulfur dust if needed.
Cutworms:
Chew young transplants at soil level. Protect stems with cardboard collars or diatomaceous earth barriers. Keep beds free of weeds and debris to reduce habitat.
Diseases & Fungal Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
Brown concentric leaf spots appearing from the base upward. Rotate crops, avoid overhead watering, and prune lower foliage. Treat with copper fungicide or compost tea foliar spray at first sign. Maintain at least 24–36 inches spacing for airflow.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Tiny dark lesions that spread rapidly in humidity. Remove infected leaves immediately and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Weekly spraying with biofungicides (Bacillus subtilis) helps maintain control organically.
Fusarium Wilt (F) and Verticillium Wilt (V):
Soilborne diseases causing yellowing and wilt on one side of the plant. The Arkansas Traveler shows moderate tolerance, but practice strict crop rotation (3–4 years) and avoid planting after peppers, eggplant, or potatoes. Add mycorrhizal inoculants at planting to strengthen root health.
Anthracnose (Fruit Rot):
Circular sunken lesions on ripe fruit, especially after rain. Harvest promptly and avoid letting fruit contact the soil. Apply calcium-rich compost and ensure good drainage.
Cracking:
Caused by irregular watering or sudden rain after drought. Mulch deeply and maintain steady moisture. Harvest just as fruits blush to minimize splits.
Blossom End Rot:
Dark, sunken spots at fruit ends from calcium deficiency or erratic watering. Apply liquid calcium (cal-mag) or top-dress with crushed eggshells or bone meal early in the season. Keep moisture consistent; calcium uptake depends more on watering than soil supply.
Environmental Stress & Physiological Problems
Heat Stress:
While bred for heat tolerance, sustained temperatures above 95°F (35°C) can reduce fruit set. Provide 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat and water early in the morning to maintain turgor.
Humidity & Fungal Spread:
Dense canopies can trap moisture. Prune suckers selectively to promote airflow but avoid heavy defoliation. Mulching with straw or shredded leaves reduces splash transmission of soilborne spores.
Pollination Failure:
High heat or low humidity can cause blossoms to drop. Encourage bee activity and gently tap flowers midday to assist pollen release.
Organic Preventive Measures
Rotate crops annually, avoiding Solanaceae family sites for 3–4 years.
Mulch heavily to maintain soil health and humidity balance.
Use compost tea or seaweed extract every 2–3 weeks for disease resistance.
Maintain balanced feeding — excessive nitrogen increases disease risk.
Introduce beneficial insects (ladybugs, lacewings) to maintain pest balance naturally.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What makes the Arkansas Traveler tomato special?
Arkansas Traveler is an heirloom slicing tomato known for its heat and humidity tolerance, crack resistance, and balanced flavor. It was bred at the University of Arkansas in 1968 and remains one of the most dependable open-pollinated tomatoes for the American South and similar climates.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically ripen in 80–85 days from transplanting. Once mature, plants continue producing steadily through the summer, even when other tomatoes slow down in the heat.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when soil or tray temperatures are kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C). Cooler conditions will delay or reduce germination rates.
Q: How big do the plants and fruits get?
Plants are indeterminate, reaching 5–6 feet tall with proper staking. Fruits average 6–8 ounces, round to slightly oblate, with smooth rose-pink skin and firm, juicy interiors.
Q: Is Arkansas Traveler resistant to cracking?
Yes — it was specifically bred for crack resistance under hot, humid, or drought-stressed conditions. Regular, even watering further minimizes splitting.
Q: What type of tomato is it — determinate or indeterminate?
It is indeterminate, meaning it continues growing and producing fruit throughout the season until frost.
Q: Does it need staking or support?
Yes. Provide sturdy cages, stakes, or a trellis system at planting. Fruits are medium-sized but numerous, and vines become heavy during peak production.
Q: What soil conditions does it prefer?
Arkansas Traveler thrives in rich, well-drained loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Incorporate compost or aged manure before planting and mulch well to maintain soil moisture.
Q: Can I grow it in containers?
Yes — choose a 15–20 gallon container with proper drainage and a tomato cage or trellis. Container-grown plants may require daily watering during hot spells.
Q: How often should I water?
Provide about 1–1½ inches per week, depending on weather. Deep, consistent watering encourages strong root systems and helps prevent cracking and blossom end rot.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, though pollinator visits and light airflow improve fruit size and yield.
Q: Is Arkansas Traveler a good canning tomato?
Yes — while primarily a slicer, its balanced flavor and firm texture make it suitable for light canning, roasting, or sauce-making.
Q: Is it disease resistant?
It shows natural tolerance to heat-related stress and common fungal pressures but not the hybrid-level resistance found in VF lines. Prevent issues with crop rotation, pruning for airflow, and compost-based soil care.
Q: Why are my blossoms dropping without fruit forming?
This occurs when temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C) or dip below 55°F (13°C). Provide afternoon shade, maintain moisture, and encourage bees or gently shake blooms for pollination.
Q: How can I enhance flavor and productivity?
Slight water reduction during ripening intensifies sweetness. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers—too much encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit set.
Q: What other varieties does Arkansas Traveler pair well with in the garden?
Excellent companions include basil, marigold, onions, garlic, and carrots. Avoid planting near fennel or potatoes, which can increase pest and disease pressure.
Q: What makes the Arkansas Traveler tomato special?
Arkansas Traveler is an heirloom slicing tomato known for its heat and humidity tolerance, crack resistance, and balanced flavor. It was bred at the University of Arkansas in 1968 and remains one of the most dependable open-pollinated tomatoes for the American South and similar climates.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically ripen in 80–85 days from transplanting. Once mature, plants continue producing steadily through the summer, even when other tomatoes slow down in the heat.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when soil or tray temperatures are kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C). Cooler conditions will delay or reduce germination rates.
Q: How big do the plants and fruits get?
Plants are indeterminate, reaching 5–6 feet tall with proper staking. Fruits average 6–8 ounces, round to slightly oblate, with smooth rose-pink skin and firm, juicy interiors.
Q: Is Arkansas Traveler resistant to cracking?
Yes — it was specifically bred for crack resistance under hot, humid, or drought-stressed conditions. Regular, even watering further minimizes splitting.
Q: What type of tomato is it — determinate or indeterminate?
It is indeterminate, meaning it continues growing and producing fruit throughout the season until frost.
Q: Does it need staking or support?
Yes. Provide sturdy cages, stakes, or a trellis system at planting. Fruits are medium-sized but numerous, and vines become heavy during peak production.
Q: What soil conditions does it prefer?
Arkansas Traveler thrives in rich, well-drained loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Incorporate compost or aged manure before planting and mulch well to maintain soil moisture.
Q: Can I grow it in containers?
Yes — choose a 15–20 gallon container with proper drainage and a tomato cage or trellis. Container-grown plants may require daily watering during hot spells.
Q: How often should I water?
Provide about 1–1½ inches per week, depending on weather. Deep, consistent watering encourages strong root systems and helps prevent cracking and blossom end rot.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Tomatoes are self-pollinating, though pollinator visits and light airflow improve fruit size and yield.
Q: Is Arkansas Traveler a good canning tomato?
Yes — while primarily a slicer, its balanced flavor and firm texture make it suitable for light canning, roasting, or sauce-making.
Q: Is it disease resistant?
It shows natural tolerance to heat-related stress and common fungal pressures but not the hybrid-level resistance found in VF lines. Prevent issues with crop rotation, pruning for airflow, and compost-based soil care.
Q: Why are my blossoms dropping without fruit forming?
This occurs when temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C) or dip below 55°F (13°C). Provide afternoon shade, maintain moisture, and encourage bees or gently shake blooms for pollination.
Q: How can I enhance flavor and productivity?
Slight water reduction during ripening intensifies sweetness. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers—too much encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit set.
Q: What other varieties does Arkansas Traveler pair well with in the garden?
Excellent companions include basil, marigold, onions, garlic, and carrots. Avoid planting near fennel or potatoes, which can increase pest and disease pressure.
📍
ZIP
— Change
🚚
●
Checking local suitability…
🎉
Free shipping on $25+ orders.
🌱
Average Last Frost
—
❄️
Average First Frost
—
From Seed Indoors (Spring)
Start: —
From Plant (Spring)
Transplant: —
Fall Planting
Start/Direct sow: —
Transplant: —
Expected Harvest
Window: —
Is this a good fit for your garden?
●
Answer the checklist to see your fit
History & Culture – Arkansas Traveler Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
The cultivated tomato traces its ancestry to the Andean region of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Through careful selection for fruit size, texture, and color, these early farmers transformed a small wild berry into a major food plant. Over centuries, the crop traveled north into Mesoamerica, where the Maya, Nahua, and other Indigenous agriculturalists incorporated it into the milpa system — the triad of maize, beans, and squash that defined sustainable food production and ecological balance across the Americas.
Following European contact, tomatoes were carried across the Atlantic, then reintroduced to North America generations later through colonial and settler farming networks. By the 19th century, the tomato had become a standard homestead crop throughout the United States, adapted to local climates and culinary traditions.
The Arkansas Traveler Tomato descends from this long legacy of seedkeeping and adaptation. The name refers both to a 19th-century folk song and story associated with Arkansas and to the hardy, good-natured reputation of its namesake variety. It was officially released in 1968 by the University of Arkansas after several years of regional trials aimed at developing a tomato suited for the state’s high heat, humidity, and drought fluctuations.
While the university selection provided uniformity and disease tolerance, the genetic foundation came from Southern heirloom tomatoes already thriving in the region — varieties passed down through farm families who preserved open-pollinated strains despite the rise of commercial hybrids. Arkansas Traveler thus represents a refinement of regional heirloom genetics, maintaining flavor and resilience rather than replacing them.
In the decades since, it has remained a preferred cultivar for Southern and Midwestern gardeners seeking balanced flavor, crack resistance, and consistent yields under weather extremes. Its adaptability and mild, sweet flavor have made it one of the most widely grown pink tomatoes in the United States.
Today, Arkansas Traveler endures as both a Southern heritage variety and a living reflection of the Indigenous agricultural ingenuity that first shaped the modern tomato — a seed line continuing the relationship between plant, climate, and careful human stewardship across generations.
The cultivated tomato traces its ancestry to the Andean region of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Through careful selection for fruit size, texture, and color, these early farmers transformed a small wild berry into a major food plant. Over centuries, the crop traveled north into Mesoamerica, where the Maya, Nahua, and other Indigenous agriculturalists incorporated it into the milpa system — the triad of maize, beans, and squash that defined sustainable food production and ecological balance across the Americas.
Following European contact, tomatoes were carried across the Atlantic, then reintroduced to North America generations later through colonial and settler farming networks. By the 19th century, the tomato had become a standard homestead crop throughout the United States, adapted to local climates and culinary traditions.
The Arkansas Traveler Tomato descends from this long legacy of seedkeeping and adaptation. The name refers both to a 19th-century folk song and story associated with Arkansas and to the hardy, good-natured reputation of its namesake variety. It was officially released in 1968 by the University of Arkansas after several years of regional trials aimed at developing a tomato suited for the state’s high heat, humidity, and drought fluctuations.
While the university selection provided uniformity and disease tolerance, the genetic foundation came from Southern heirloom tomatoes already thriving in the region — varieties passed down through farm families who preserved open-pollinated strains despite the rise of commercial hybrids. Arkansas Traveler thus represents a refinement of regional heirloom genetics, maintaining flavor and resilience rather than replacing them.
In the decades since, it has remained a preferred cultivar for Southern and Midwestern gardeners seeking balanced flavor, crack resistance, and consistent yields under weather extremes. Its adaptability and mild, sweet flavor have made it one of the most widely grown pink tomatoes in the United States.
Today, Arkansas Traveler endures as both a Southern heritage variety and a living reflection of the Indigenous agricultural ingenuity that first shaped the modern tomato — a seed line continuing the relationship between plant, climate, and careful human stewardship across generations.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
Payment methods
Your payment information is processed securely. We do not store credit card details nor have access to your credit card information.
Join Our Newsletter for Exclusive Savings!
Sign up for our newsletter to get a 30% discount code sent straight to your inbox. If it doesn’t appear right away, please check your inbox settings, and if you still need help, we’re here to assist!
