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Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
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not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
A truly distinctive heirloom, Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) produces clusters of slender, banana-shaped fruits with a smooth, bright yellow skin and meaty, low-acid flesh. Each fruit averages 3–4 inches long and ripens from pale ivory to golden yellow, often with faint striping near the stem. Developed for productivity and ornamental charm, it offers both high yields and excellent visual appeal in the garden or market display.
Fruits are firm, mildly sweet, and ideal for sauces, salads, roasting, or canning, holding their shape beautifully when cooked. The low acidity and delicate flavor make it a favorite among gardeners who prefer mild tomatoes for lighter dishes or colorful mixed salsas.
Plants are determinate but heavy-setting, typically reaching 2–3 feet tall with bushy growth that thrives in containers, raised beds, or open garden rows. Maturity occurs in about 75–80 days from transplant, with long, continuous fruiting through midsummer. The variety’s natural tolerance to cracking and disease makes it one of the easiest yellow tomatoes to grow.
First introduced as part of an open-pollinated selection from tomato breeder Tom Wagner, Banana Legs was derived from an early cross of Roma-type paste tomatoes and decorative yellow cultivars. Today, it remains prized for its eye-catching color, reliable yield, and mild, golden sweetness that brightens both garden and kitchen alike.
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and soil drainage. Consistent watering is crucial for Banana Legs—irregular moisture can cause fruit cracking or blossom end rot.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water deeply at soil level while keeping foliage dry. This reduces fungal diseases and improves fruit quality.
Mulch with 2–3 inches of straw, compost, or shredded leaves to stabilize moisture and temperature.
Avoid light, frequent watering, which encourages shallow roots and uneven fruit development.
Fertilizing
Before planting, work in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 inches of soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early growth using a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or 5-5-5).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to promote fruit production and strengthen skins.
Supplement with seaweed extract or compost tea midseason for improved nutrient uptake and fruit flavor.
Avoid heavy nitrogen after transplanting—it encourages lush leaves but delays ripening.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep rows weed-free to reduce pest pressure and nutrient competition.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch once soil warms to retain moisture and prevent soil splash.
Organic mulches (straw, shredded leaves, compost) are preferred. Black plastic mulch may be used early in the season to warm soil but should be replaced with organic mulch once temperatures rise.
Sun & Heat Management
Banana Legs requires 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Ideal air temperatures are 70–85°F (21–29°C) during the day and above 60°F (16°C) at night.
During extended heat waves (above 95°F / 35°C), provide 30–40% shade cloth to prevent flower drop.
Ensure proper spacing for airflow—compact plants still need circulation to reduce fungal risks.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 18–24 inches apart in rows 24–36 inches apart.
Although determinate, Banana Legs benefits from staking or short cages to support heavy clusters.
Install supports at planting time to avoid root disturbance later.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, marigold, onion, garlic, and carrot — they deter aphids and nematodes and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Potatoes and fennel, which compete for nutrients or harbor similar pests.
Tip: Interplant with dill, borage, or coriander to attract bees and improve pollination for uniform fruiting.
Container Growing
Perfect for containers of 10–15 gallons or larger.
Use a high-quality potting mix blended with compost and perlite for drainage.
Container-grown plants dry faster—check moisture daily and water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.
Fertilize every 2–3 weeks with a diluted organic liquid fertilizer.
Shade pot sides during midsummer to prevent overheating.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cold frames to start earlier in spring and extend harvest into late summer.
In cooler climates, black plastic mulch can help warm soil in early spring.
In mild zones, Banana Legs can continue setting fruit until the first frost with light protection.
Additional Tips – Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest when fruits turn rich golden-yellow with faint green undertones near the stem. Fully ripe fruits feel firm yet yield slightly to pressure. Avoid waiting for softness—Banana Legs retains the best flavor and texture when picked just before fully ripe.
Technique:
Use pruning shears or scissors to clip fruits cleanly from the vine, leaving a small stem attached. Avoid twisting or pulling; the fruit clusters can tear easily under weight.
Frequency:
Check plants every 2–3 days during peak production. Regular harvesting encourages continued fruit set and prevents overburdening the compact vines.
Maturity Signs:
Even golden color, firm but not hard texture, and subtle citrus-like aroma.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Mild, sweet, and lightly tangy, with low acidity and meaty texture. The flavor is delicate rather than sharp, ideal for fresh or cooked dishes.
Nutritional Value:
High in vitamin A, C, and potassium, with lower acidity than red tomatoes—suitable for those sensitive to sharp tomato flavor.
Contains carotenoids such as beta-carotene and lutein, responsible for its yellow color and antioxidant value.
Flavor Tip:
Slight moisture stress near ripening enhances sweetness. Avoid over-fertilizing or overwatering, which dilutes flavor and firmness.
Handling & Post-Harvest Care
Handle gently to avoid bruising; Banana Legs’ thin skin can mark easily.
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight.
Do not refrigerate unless fully ripe—cold temperatures dull flavor and texture.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage:
Fruits keep 5–7 days at room temperature when harvested slightly firm.
Canning & Sauces:
Excellent for golden tomato sauces, soups, and salsas. Its low water content allows quick cooking and reduced foaming during processing. Add lemon juice or citric acid for safe canning acidity.
Roasting & Freezing:
Halve or quarter fruits, drizzle with olive oil, and roast until caramelized. Freeze roasted pieces for winter soups and sauces.
Pickling:
Firm, unripe fruits can be pickled whole or sliced for decorative jars.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Slice for salads, antipasto platters, or garnish for contrast with red and purple varieties.
Cooked:
Roast, bake, or simmer into sauce—flesh holds its shape beautifully.
Pairings:
Excellent with basil, thyme, olive oil, garlic, onion, white balsamic, goat cheese, and seafood.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Compact determinate plants (24–36 inches tall) that benefit from light staking to support heavy clusters.
Pruning:
Minimal pruning required—remove only lower leaves for airflow and to prevent soil splash.
Soil Care:
Mulch deeply to retain moisture and regulate temperature. Reapply compost midseason to sustain yields.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 10–15 gallons with well-drained mix enriched by compost or worm castings.
Drainage:
Essential—yellow-fruited tomatoes are sensitive to waterlogging.
Watering Rhythm:
Deeply water when top inch of soil feels dry. Maintain consistent moisture to avoid blossom end rot or cracking.
Heat Protection:
Shade containers during extreme heat (>95°F / 35°C) to prevent root stress.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, marigolds, carrots, onions, and parsley help repel pests and attract pollinators.
Trap Crops:
Nasturtium or radish can divert aphids and flea beetles.
Pollination Tip:
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but bee activity improves fruit size and uniform ripening. Gently tap clusters midday to assist pollination if grown in sheltered areas.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose fully ripe, disease-free fruits that best represent the desired shape and color.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with water.
Ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily until a thin film forms.
Rinse thoroughly, removing floating debris.
Dry 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Storage:
Keep seeds in airtight jars with desiccant in a cool, dark place.
Viability: 4–6 years under proper storage conditions.
Common Pests & Problems – Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insect Pests
Aphids:
Often cluster on tender new growth and undersides of leaves, leaving sticky residue and causing leaf curl.
Control: Use insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a sharp spray of water every few days. Introduce ladybugs or lacewings to maintain balance.
Whiteflies:
Small flying pests that thrive in warm, still air. They weaken plants and spread viral diseases.
Control: Deploy yellow sticky traps and spray horticultural oil on leaf undersides weekly. Increase airflow with light pruning.
Tomato Hornworms:
Large green caterpillars that devour leaves and fruit stems.
Control: Handpick daily at dawn or dusk. Encourage beneficial wasps (Cotesia congregata) and birds for natural suppression.
Spider Mites:
Tiny red or yellow mites cause stippling on leaves in hot, dry weather.
Control: Keep foliage humid with early-morning misting, and apply sulfur or neem. Avoid moisture stress.
Cutworms:
These soil-dwelling larvae can chew through young transplants at soil level.
Control: Protect stems with collars made from paper cups or cardboard and remove weeds near planting zones.
Diseases & Fungal Issues
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
Dark target-like spots appear on lower leaves during humid conditions.
Prevention: Mulch early to prevent soil splash, prune lower leaves, and spray with copper fungicide or compost tea weekly in wet seasons.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Tiny dark specks with yellow halos cause leaf drop.
Control: Remove infected foliage immediately and apply biological fungicides (Bacillus subtilis). Maintain 24" spacing for airflow.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilt:
Soilborne pathogens that cause yellowing and wilting from the bottom up.
Prevention: Rotate crops for 3–4 years, sterilize tools, and avoid planting in beds previously used for peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Anthracnose:
Sunken, circular lesions appear on ripe fruit in rainy weather.
Control: Harvest promptly and apply seaweed foliar spray or calcium-rich compost tea for prevention.
Bacterial Spot & Speck:
Small dark lesions on fruit and foliage in humid climates.
Control: Use disease-free seed, practice crop rotation, and apply copper-based fungicides preventively if the disease is present in your area.
Cracking:
Banana Legs resists cracking better than most, but irregular watering after dry spells can still cause splits.
Solution: Maintain consistent soil moisture with deep watering and 2–3 inches of mulch.
Environmental Stress & Nutrient Issues
Blossom End Rot:
Caused by irregular watering or calcium deficiency.
Prevention: Add calcium (gypsum, bone meal) before planting. Maintain even moisture and avoid heavy nitrogen. Crushed eggshells release calcium slowly, so apply them early in the season.
Sunscald:
Yellow fruits are prone to pale, leathery patches from direct sunlight after heavy pruning.
Tip: Retain moderate foliage to shade fruit clusters.
Nutrient Imbalance:
Excess nitrogen promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit set. Use a balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer once flowering begins.
Organic Prevention Measures
Rotate tomato family crops every 3–4 years.
Mulch early to prevent soil splash and conserve moisture.
Apply beneficial microbes (mycorrhizae, Trichoderma) at planting to suppress soil pathogens.
Avoid overhead watering; use drip irrigation for dry foliage.
Interplant with basil, marigold, or garlic to repel pests naturally.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What makes Banana Legs different from other yellow tomatoes?
Banana Legs is known for its distinct shape and texture—fruits are slender, 3–4 inches long, and resemble miniature yellow bananas. Its flesh is firm, meaty, and low in acid, making it excellent for sauces, roasting, and salsas without overpowering sweetness or tang.
Q: Is Banana Legs an heirloom or hybrid?
It’s an open-pollinated heirloom bred from early Roma-type selections by independent tomato breeder Tom Wagner in the late 20th century. It’s considered a modern heirloom with stable, true-to-type seed.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Plants typically mature in 75–80 days from transplanting. Because it’s a determinate variety, most of the fruit ripens over a few weeks, making it ideal for preserving or market harvests.
Q: How large do the plants and fruits get?
Plants grow about 24–36 inches tall with a bushy, compact habit. Fruits are 3–4 inches long and 1 inch wide, weighing roughly 3–4 ounces each.
Q: Does Banana Legs need staking or cages?
Yes. Although determinate, the heavy fruit load can cause stems to bend or snap. Use short stakes, tomato cages, or garden netting for support during peak fruiting.
Q: What kind of flavor does it have?
It has a mild, sweet flavor with low acidity and very little tang—ideal for those who prefer gentle tomato flavor or who find red varieties too sharp.
Q: Is it good for canning or fresh use?
Both. The firm flesh makes it perfect for sauces, salsas, and roasting, while its color adds brightness to fresh salads and antipasto trays. Its low moisture content helps it cook down quickly for thick pastes or preserves.
Q: How can I tell when Banana Legs is ripe?
Fruits ripen from pale ivory to deep golden yellow, sometimes showing faint striping near the stem. They should feel firm but yield slightly under gentle pressure. Avoid waiting for full softness, as overripe fruits lose texture.
Q: How often should I water?
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, depending on weather and soil. Deep, consistent watering prevents cracking and blossom end rot. Avoid overhead watering—use drip lines or soaker hoses.
Q: Does it perform well in containers?
Yes, Banana Legs thrives in containers of 10+ gallons. Use rich, well-draining potting mix with compost and ensure daily watering in hot weather.
Q: Is it disease resistant?
While not labeled VF (Verticillium/Fusarium) resistant, it’s naturally tolerant of most common tomato problems, including cracking, mild drought, and leaf spot when grown with proper airflow and soil health.
Q: Can I save seeds from Banana Legs?
Yes. It’s an open-pollinated variety, so saved seed will grow true-to-type if isolated from other tomato varieties by 25–50 feet. Ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days before drying.
Q: Why are my fruits pale instead of golden?
Color deepens as the fruit fully ripens in full sun. Pale or streaked fruit may indicate low light, excess nitrogen, or cooler temperatures slowing pigment formation.
Q: How many tomatoes does one plant produce?
Under good conditions, each plant can yield 80–120 fruits per season, thanks to its clustered flowering habit and compact, determinate structure.
History & Culture – Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
The story of the Banana Legs Tomato begins, as all tomatoes do, in the Andean highlands of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Through generations of careful selection and trade, these early tomatoes spread north into Mesoamerica, where the Maya and Nahua refined them within the milpa system—the symbiotic cultivation of maize, beans, and squash that shaped much of the hemisphere’s sustainable food production.
After European contact, tomatoes were carried around the world, later returning to North America transformed through centuries of local adaptation. By the 20th century, tomato breeding in the United States had expanded into a balance of commercial innovation and heirloom preservation, often driven by independent seed savers and small breeders outside the corporate sphere.
Banana Legs emerged from this movement. It was developed by Tom Wagner, an independent plant breeder from Washington State, renowned for creating colorful, open-pollinated varieties like Green Zebra. Wagner’s work focused on expanding tomato diversity through public-domain breeding—encouraging gardeners to participate in ongoing selection and adaptation rather than relying on patented hybrids.
Derived from crosses between Roma-type paste tomatoes and decorative yellow varieties, Banana Legs was selected for its unusual elongated shape, bright yellow color, and mild, low-acid flavor. The result was a compact, determinate plant with exceptional productivity and a fruit unlike anything seen in traditional paste tomatoes.
Today, Banana Legs is recognized worldwide as a modern heirloom, blending traditional open-pollinated values with mid-century breeding creativity. Its firm texture and decorative appeal have made it a favorite for both home gardeners and small-scale market growers seeking distinctive, high-yielding fruit.
Though it originated from contemporary breeding rather than old family preservation, Banana Legs still carries the same seedkeeping spirit that shaped all heirlooms—innovation grounded in stewardship, and flavor shaped by the hands of growers who save and replant year after year.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Banana Legs Cherry
$200 USD
$369
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
A truly distinctive heirloom, Banana Legs Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) produces clusters of slender, banana-shaped fruits with a smooth, bright yellow skin and meaty, low-acid flesh. Each fruit averages 3–4 inches long and ripens from pale ivory to golden yellow, often with faint striping near the stem. Developed for productivity and ornamental charm, it offers both high yields and excellent visual appeal in the garden or market display.
Fruits are firm, mildly sweet, and ideal for sauces, salads, roasting, or canning, holding their shape beautifully when cooked. The low acidity and delicate flavor make it a favorite among gardeners who prefer mild tomatoes for lighter dishes or colorful mixed salsas.
Plants are determinate but heavy-setting, typically reaching 2–3 feet tall with bushy growth that thrives in containers, raised beds, or open garden rows. Maturity occurs in about 75–80 days from transplant, with long, continuous fruiting through midsummer. The variety’s natural tolerance to cracking and disease makes it one of the easiest yellow tomatoes to grow.
First introduced as part of an open-pollinated selection from tomato breeder Tom Wagner, Banana Legs was derived from an early cross of Roma-type paste tomatoes and decorative yellow cultivars. Today, it remains prized for its eye-catching color, reliable yield, and mild, golden sweetness that brightens both garden and kitchen alike.
