Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Big Rainbow Beefsteak
Massive, gold-and-red marbled heirloom tomato prized for its fruity sweetness, rich color, and show-quality appearance.
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
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- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
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- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
Description
A true showpiece of the heirloom garden, the Big Rainbow Tomato dazzles with its golden-orange skin blushed by red and pink streaks that ripple through every slice. This large, bi-colored beefsteak variety delivers exceptional visual appeal and a flavor just as remarkable—sweet, mild, and fruity, with a hint of tropical acidity that balances beautifully in both fresh and cooked dishes.
Fruits are impressively large, often reaching 1–2 pounds, with dense, juicy flesh and few seeds. The coloration deepens as fruits ripen, creating marbled patterns unique to each tomato—no two look alike. Its meaty texture and low acidity make it perfect for fresh slicing, salads, sandwiches, or showcasing on charcuterie boards, where its vivid hues shine.
Big Rainbow is an indeterminate heirloom that continues producing throughout the season. Expect a steady harvest about 85–90 days from transplant, with excellent performance in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. While not bred for commercial uniformity, it rewards home and market gardeners with unmatched flavor and beauty.
Originally popularized in the Midwestern United States, Big Rainbow was cherished among family growers long before it appeared in seed catalogs. Today, it remains one of the most prized bi-color tomatoes—an heirloom that captures the artistry and abundance of traditional American gardens.
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1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during dry spells or when plants are heavily fruiting.
Water deeply at the base rather than overhead to avoid wet foliage and fungal spread.
Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal for steady moisture and efficient delivery.
Maintain consistent soil moisture—fluctuation causes cracking and blossom end rot.
Mulch with straw or shredded leaves once soil warms to lock in moisture and regulate temperature.
Tip: Reduce watering slightly once fruit begins to ripen. This concentrates sugars and improves flavor without stressing the plant.
Fertilizing
Before transplanting, work compost or aged manure into the top 8–10 inches of soil.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-10 or fish emulsion).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (e.g. 5-10-10 or tomato-specific blend).
Avoid overfeeding nitrogen—it produces lush foliage but delays fruiting.
Supplement calcium via compost, kelp meal, or liquid calcium sprays during early fruit development to prevent blossom end rot.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the root zone weed-free to minimize competition and pest hiding spots.
Once soil warms, apply 2–3 inches of mulch—straw, pine needles, or shredded bark—to conserve moisture and stabilize temperature.
Reapply mulch midseason as it decomposes.
When weeding near the base, loosen soil gently—roots of mature tomatoes extend widely and close to the surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Big Rainbow needs full sun (6–8+ hours daily) for full color and flavor development.
Ideal daytime temperatures are 75–90°F (24–32°C), with nighttime temps above 60°F (16°C).
During heat waves above 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect flowers and prevent fruit drop.
Provide good airflow between plants to deter humidity-related fungal issues.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to allow airflow and room for pruning.
Big Rainbow is an indeterminate grower, requiring strong staking, caging, or trellising to support heavy fruit loads.
Prune suckers (the shoots between main stem and branch) below the first flower cluster to improve airflow and direct energy to fruit production.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, marigolds, onions, carrots, garlic, and parsley help deter pests and improve pollination.
Avoid: Fennel, corn, and brassicas (cabbage family), which may attract or harbor pests.
Interplant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.
Container Growing
Possible but challenging due to size and vigor. Use a minimum 25–30 gallon container with heavy-duty staking.
Ensure excellent drainage and use high-quality organic potting mix blended with compost.
Water more frequently, as containers dry faster—daily checks during peak summer.
Feed lightly but consistently every two weeks with liquid fertilizer.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to retain soil warmth and protect young plants from cool nights.
In cooler regions, black plastic mulch can preheat soil in spring.
Toward season’s end, remove lower leaves and cover plants during early frosts to extend ripening.
Harvest mature but unripe fruits before frost and allow them to ripen indoors at 65–70°F.
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest when fruits display golden-orange skin with red to pink marbling, especially near the blossom end. Slight green at the shoulders is normal and fades as they ripen fully indoors.
Technique:
Use pruning shears or scissors to cut fruit cleanly from the vine, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Avoid twisting or pulling; heavy fruits can tear branches.
Frequency:
Check plants every 2–3 days during the peak season. Frequent picking encourages steady production and reduces fruit cracking after rain.
Maturity Signs:
Fruits are firm yet yield slightly under gentle pressure and release a sweet, tropical scent when ripe.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Mild, sweet, and lightly tangy with undertones of melon and citrus. The balance of sugar and low acidity makes it excellent for fresh eating and mild sauces.
Nutrition:
High in vitamin C, potassium, and carotenoids (beta-carotene and lycopene), though its lighter color means lower lycopene than red tomatoes. Provides antioxidants that support heart and skin health.
Flavor Tip:
Reduce watering slightly during ripening to concentrate sugars and enhance marbling color.
Handling
Handle gently—Big Rainbow’s thin skin bruises easily.
Do not refrigerate uncut fruits; store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) for best flavor.
Keep stems up when storing to avoid pressure marks on delicate shoulders.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage:
Ripe fruits keep 5–7 days at room temperature.
Canning & Sauces:
Excellent for golden-orange sauces, soups, and salsa blends—add lemon juice or vinegar for safe canning acidity.
Freezing:
Slice or quarter ripe fruits and freeze in single layers before transferring to bags.
Drying:
Dense flesh dries to a chewy, slightly sweet texture—ideal for blending into seasoning salts or sauces.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Slice thick for sandwiches, caprese salads, or summer platters.
Cooked:
Roast or grill to deepen sweetness and color.
Pairings:
Great with basil, mozzarella, olive oil, citrus, balsamic vinegar, onion, and sweet corn.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate vines reach 6–7 feet, producing continuously until frost.
Pruning:
Remove lower leaves early to improve airflow; selectively prune suckers below the first flower cluster to manage growth.
Soil Care:
Mulch well to prevent soil splash and maintain steady moisture.
Feeding:
Side-dress with compost midseason to sustain large fruit production.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 25–30 gallons with heavy-duty support.
Drainage:
Essential—add perlite or coarse sand to improve aeration.
Watering Rhythm:
Deep watering every few days; keep soil evenly moist to prevent splitting.
Heat Protection:
During heatwaves, shade container sides or topsoil to prevent root stress.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, marigolds, carrots, and onions deter pests and attract beneficial insects.
Trap Crops:
Nasturtium helps divert aphids, while dill attracts lacewings.
Pollination Tip:
Self-fertile, but increased bee activity ensures larger, more uniform fruit. Lightly shake or tap blossoms midday if pollinators are scarce.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose ripe, disease-free fruits showing clear bicolor pattern and ideal size.
Fermentation:
Scoop seeds and gel into a jar, add water, and ferment 2–3 days. Stir daily until a thin film forms.
Drying:
Rinse, then spread seeds on paper in a shaded, ventilated area for 7–10 days.
Storage:
Store in airtight jars with desiccant.
Viability: 4–6 years under cool, dark conditions.
Pests
Aphids:
Soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth, causing curling leaves and sticky residue.
Organic Solution: Wash off with a strong stream of water, introduce ladybugs or lacewings, or spray with insecticidal soap. Maintain airflow and avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which attracts them.
Tomato Hornworms:
Large green caterpillars capable of defoliating plants rapidly.
Organic Solution: Handpick in early morning or dust lightly with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Plant nearby trap crops such as dill or marigolds to lure them away.
Whiteflies:
Small flying pests that cause yellowing and leaf wilt.
Organic Solution: Use yellow sticky traps, neem oil spray, and reflective mulch to confuse them. Encourage natural predators such as predatory wasps.
Spider Mites:
Appear in hot, dry weather, leaving stippled leaves with fine webbing.
Organic Solution: Spray undersides of leaves with water daily, and apply neem or horticultural oil if populations build up. Maintain even moisture and mulch soil to prevent dry stress.
Cutworms & Armyworms:
Attack young stems and fruit at night.
Organic Solution: Place collars around seedlings, cultivate soil before planting to expose larvae, and sprinkle crushed eggshells or diatomaceous earth as a barrier.
Diseases & Physiological Disorders
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
Causes dark spots with concentric rings on lower leaves.
Prevention: Rotate crops every 3–4 years, prune lower leaves, and apply copper or sulfur fungicide at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.
Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans):
Rapidly spreads in humid, cool conditions, causing black lesions and fruit rot.
Prevention: Provide wide spacing for airflow, avoid evening watering, and remove affected plants immediately. Mulch to reduce soil splash.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Small gray spots with dark borders, leading to early leaf drop.
Prevention: Maintain clean garden beds, remove infected debris, and apply organic fungicide preventatively during humid stretches.
Blossom End Rot:
Black sunken patches on the blossom end of fruit due to calcium imbalance.
Solution: Keep moisture even, mulch deeply, and feed with calcium-rich compost or liquid kelp. Crushed eggshells are long-term soil builders but release calcium too slowly for current crops.
Fruit Cracking:
Large heirlooms like Big Rainbow are prone to radial cracking during irregular watering or after heavy rain.
Solution: Maintain steady moisture, harvest promptly during wet weather, and provide overhead protection if possible.
Sunscald:
White or pale yellow patches on fruit caused by sudden sun exposure after pruning.
Solution: Avoid over-pruning and use surrounding foliage to shade ripening fruit naturally.
Environmental Stress
Temperature Fluctuations:
Night temperatures below 55°F or above 90°F reduce fruit set.
Solution: Use row covers for cool nights and 30–40% shade cloth in extreme heat.
Nutrient Imbalance:
Overuse of nitrogen encourages leaves at the expense of fruit.
Solution: Shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer once flowering begins.
Q: What makes Big Rainbow Tomato unique?
Big Rainbow is a striking bi-colored heirloom beefsteak with glowing golden-orange skin and pink-red marbling inside. Each slice shows a rainbow pattern of colors, and the flavor is mild, sweet, and fruity with low acidity.
Q: Where did the Big Rainbow Tomato originate?
This heirloom gained popularity in the Midwestern United States, especially in Iowa and Indiana, where it was cherished by home gardeners long before entering seed catalogs in the late 20th century.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Big Rainbow typically matures in 85–90 days from transplant, making it a mid-to-late season variety. Expect steady harvests through late summer once fruiting begins.
Q: How large do the plants and fruits get?
Plants are indeterminate and can reach 6–7 feet tall with strong staking or trellising. Fruits commonly weigh 1–2 pounds, with some exceeding that under rich soil and consistent watering.
Q: What type of flavor does it have?
Big Rainbow offers a sweet, tropical, low-acid flavor—less tangy than red beefsteaks and exceptionally smooth. It’s perfect for those who enjoy mild, fruity tomatoes for slicing or fresh eating.
Q: Does it need staking or cages?
Yes. The vines are tall and bear heavy fruits that need sturdy stakes, cages, or trellis systems to prevent breakage. Support plants early in the season to avoid damaging roots later.
Q: Is it disease resistant?
Like most traditional heirlooms, Big Rainbow is not coded for VF (Verticillium/Fusarium) resistance, but it performs well in healthy, compost-rich soil with good airflow. Regular pruning and mulching reduce fungal pressure.
Q: Is it suitable for containers?
Not ideal. Big Rainbow’s indeterminate growth and large fruit size require large in-ground or raised-bed spacing. If grown in a container, use at least 25–30 gallons with strong vertical support.
Q: How should I water it?
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, deep and infrequent. Keep soil consistently moist, especially during fruit set, to prevent cracking or blossom end rot. Use mulch to regulate moisture.
Q: What type of soil and sunlight does it prefer?
Rich, well-drained loam with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, in full sun (6–8+ hours daily). Adding compost or aged manure improves yield and color development.
Q: How do I know when Big Rainbow is ripe?
Fruits turn from pale yellow to gold with red streaks, and the bottom blushes pink-orange. When gently pressed, ripe fruits yield slightly and emit a sweet, fruity aroma.
Q: What can I use Big Rainbow for in the kitchen?
Excellent for fresh slicing, salads, sandwiches, and caprese-style dishes. It’s also beautiful when layered with red or green heirlooms for presentation. The mild flavor suits light sauces and salsas.
Q: Can I save seeds from Big Rainbow?
Yes. Big Rainbow is open-pollinated, so seeds will grow true to type if isolated from other tomato varieties by 25–50 feet. Ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days before rinsing and drying.
Q: Why are my fruits cracking?
Cracking occurs when watering fluctuates or heavy rain follows a dry period. Maintain steady moisture and mulch heavily. Pick fruit as it ripens to prevent splits from worsening.
From Seed Indoors (Spring)
From Plant (Spring)
Fall Planting
Expected Harvest
Is this a good fit for your garden?
The story of the Big Rainbow Tomato begins, as all tomatoes do, in the Andean highlands of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated Solanum lycopersicum thousands of years ago. From the mountains of present-day Peru and Bolivia, cultivated tomatoes moved northward through long-standing Indigenous trade routes into Mesoamerica, where the Maya, Nahua, and other Native peoples refined them within the milpa system—an intricate agricultural balance of maize, beans, and squash that sustained civilizations for millennia.
In these early systems, tomatoes were more than food—they represented color, balance, and renewal, embodying the harmony between land and community. The genetic foundation for all modern varieties, including Big Rainbow, was carried forward through countless generations of Indigenous seedkeepers who selected fruits for resilience, flavor, and diversity of form.
After European contact, tomatoes traveled globally and returned to North America centuries later in an array of cultivated forms. In the United States, by the late 19th and early 20th centuries, tomato breeding and selection flourished among farmers and gardeners alike. Heirlooms such as Big Rainbow arose not from laboratory crosses but from hand-kept, community-level seed preservation—families saving and sharing what thrived best in their soils.
Big Rainbow is believed to have originated in the Midwestern United States, with early circulation in Indiana and Iowa, where its vivid gold-and-red fruit became a regional favorite among home gardeners. Though its exact lineage is uncertain, it likely descends from older bicolor beefsteaks maintained through local seed swaps and family gardens in the early 1900s.
By the 1980s, Big Rainbow appeared in small seed catalogs as part of a broader heirloom revival, valued for its striking marbled coloration and mild, fruity flavor. It quickly gained recognition among collectors and small growers as one of the finest bicolor tomatoes for home gardens and markets.
Today, Big Rainbow endures as a symbol of heirloom diversity and regional seed heritage, representing both Indigenous domestication and grassroots American seedkeeping traditions. Its name honors not just its colorful flesh but the enduring spectrum of care—from the original Indigenous farmers who first shaped the tomato, to the modern growers who continue its story through every saved seed.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
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