Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The heirloom that turned gardeners into flavor chasers. Cherokee Purple Tomato bears large, dusky rose-purple fruits with deep crimson flesh and a smoky, sweet, full-bodied flavor that lingers on the tongue. Fruits average 10–12 oz, slightly flattened, and beautifully marbled, with soft shoulders that darken under the sun.
Plants are indeterminate and vigorous, stretching 4–6 feet tall with consistent mid-to-late season yields. Each vine produces heavy clusters of richly colored fruits that shine in salads, sandwiches, and fresh slices—where that signature tangy-sweet balance truly stands out.
First introduced to gardeners in 1991 by Craig LeHoullier from seed shared by J.D. Green of Tennessee, this variety was claimed to have Cherokee origins, though genetic studies hint at Eastern European lineage, possibly from Ukraine. The story remains part legend, part heritage—but the flavor, unmistakable. Cherokee Purple has since become one of the most celebrated heirlooms of all time, a garden essential wherever rich, true tomato taste is prized.
There duds they didn’t come up not one seed guess when they come from China i should have known better
Hi Stacy. That's so wild that you got duds. We do routine germination test throughout the year. And good news, we finished testing the remainder of this lot last week and they all had above and their germination rate was 85%, 6 months after your purchase. The additional good news is we do warranty our seeds a year from your original purchase date. So feel free to contact us so we can help figure out what went wrong, and proceed with next steps.
Additionally. Our small home here in Windsor North Carolina isn't located in China. Not only that, we're Native American to boot.
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Cherokee Purple Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during fruit-heavy or hot periods.
Water deeply and consistently to prevent cracking and uneven ripening, which can occur in this thin-skinned heirloom.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone while keeping foliage dry.
Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening, to minimize fungal spread.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once the soil warms to conserve moisture and maintain even soil temperature.
Tip: Steady watering preserves Cherokee Purple’s signature deep color and rich, smoky flavor—fluctuating moisture leads to splitting and blotchy ripening.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil for a slow-release nutrient foundation.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early vegetative growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, transition to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to encourage strong fruiting and better flavor.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to prevent blossom end rot and strengthen fruit tissue.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen delays ripening and reduces the fruit’s classic flavor depth.
Tip: Moderate feeding promotes the balanced sweetness and acidity for which Cherokee Purple is prized.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the area around plants weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and pest harboring.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, compost, or leaf mold) to retain moisture and stabilize temperature.
Weed gently to avoid disturbing shallow roots near the soil surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for full pigment development.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During extended heat above 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce sunscald.
Maintain wide spacing for ventilation to minimize humidity and prevent fungal diseases like early blight or septoria leaf spot.
Tip: Cherokee Purple’s dark pigmentation deepens most under consistent light and mild heat, but protection from sunburn improves fruit quality.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 30–36 inches apart with 36–48 inches between rows.
As a vigorous indeterminate heirloom, Cherokee Purple requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises.
Train vines vertically and prune moderately to promote airflow and easier harvest.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to prevent soil splash and disease spread.
Tip: Use wide trellising or reinforced cages—fruits can exceed 1 lb each, and heavy clusters strain stems.
Promote beneficial insects: Interplant with small-flowered herbs like dill, coriander, and sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitoid wasps that control aphids and whiteflies.
Encourage pollinators: Include flowering plants such as calendula, cosmos, and native asters nearby to sustain bees throughout the growing season.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes or grains for at least 2–3 years to reduce soilborne diseases. Avoid planting after other nightshades (peppers, eggplants, or potatoes).
Soil health: Maintain mulch or cover crops to support beneficial microbes and improve soil structure.
Tip: Modern integrated pest management research supports biodiversity and rotation as the best long-term pest suppression methods.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 25–30 gallons) with strong trellis or cage support.
Use high-quality organic potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for aeration.
Check moisture daily—Cherokee Purple’s large fruits are sensitive to water stress.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer.
Tip: Mulching the container surface keeps soil evenly moist and reduces cracking, especially in high heat.
Season Extension
Use row covers or tunnels early in the season to retain warmth and protect seedlings from cool nights.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler regions.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before frost to redirect energy into ripening mature fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they’ll continue to ripen indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Cherokee Purple develops its full sweetness even when ripened off the vine—store in indirect light for best results.
Harvesting
Harvest fruits when they reach their signature dusky rose-purple color with green-tinted shoulders. The skin should feel slightly tender but not soft. Because the skin is thinner than most modern hybrids, handle carefully to prevent bruising.
For peak flavor, allow fruit to ripen fully on the vine—Cherokee Purple’s sweetness and depth intensify during the final ripening days. If frost or heavy rain is expected, pick fruits at the early blush stage and ripen indoors at room temperature out of direct sunlight.
Flavor & Culinary Notes
Cherokee Purple offers one of the richest and most complex flavors among heirlooms—balanced sweetness, acidity, and a subtle smoky finish. It’s exceptional in fresh slices, caprese salads, BLTs, and any dish where tomato flavor is the centerpiece.
Pair it with fresh basil, mozzarella, olive oil, and sea salt to showcase its depth. Light roasting or slow drying enhances the sweetness for sauces and spreads.
Handling & Storage
Store ripe tomatoes at room temperature; refrigeration dulls their flavor and texture. For longer keeping, store slightly underripe fruit stem-side down on a cool countertop. Avoid stacking to prevent bruising.
Freeze diced tomatoes or puree for later use in sauces. Dehydrating slices also preserves their sweet, concentrated flavor.
Growing & Maintenance
Support: Use tall cages or trellises; fruits are heavy and vines vigorous.
Pruning: Light pruning of lower leaves improves air circulation and reduces fungal disease.
Feeding: Side-dress with compost or a low-nitrogen fertilizer every 3–4 weeks during fruiting.
Watering: Deep, steady watering keeps skins smooth and prevents cracking. Irregular watering can cause splitting or blossom-end rot.
Seed Saving
Select the best fruits from healthy, disease-free plants at full maturity. Scoop seeds into a jar, cover with water, and allow to ferment for 2–3 days to remove the gel coating. Rinse and dry seeds thoroughly on a nonstick surface for 7–10 days before storing in airtight containers. Properly dried seeds remain viable for 4–6 years when stored in a cool, dark place.
Container Tips
Grow in containers 10 gallons or larger with premium, well-draining potting mix. Water daily in summer heat and add slow-release fertilizer midseason. Rotate container placement occasionally for even sun exposure.
Common Pairings in the Garden
Grow alongside basil, marigold, garlic, or parsley to deter pests and attract pollinators. Avoid planting near potatoes, corn, or fennel.
Extended Season Care
Mulch deeply and use row covers or plastic tunnels in early spring and late fall to extend production. In cooler climates, black plastic mulch helps warm the soil and speed fruit ripening.
Common Pests & Problems — Cherokee Purple Tomato
Insect Pests
Tomato Hornworms:
Large green caterpillars that strip foliage and chew developing fruit. Handpick in early morning or evening. Encourage beneficial predators like paper wasps and parasitic braconid wasps.
Aphids:
Tiny sap-sucking insects that cluster on new growth, causing curling leaves and sticky honeydew residue. Control with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or a strong spray of water to dislodge colonies.
Whiteflies:
Small, flying insects on leaf undersides. They spread fungal pathogens and weaken plants. Use yellow sticky traps and maintain good airflow between plants.
Flea Beetles:
Create small shot holes in leaves of young plants, stunting early growth. Protect seedlings with row covers until well established, and mulch to reduce overwintering adults.
Cutworms:
Nocturnal larvae that sever stems at soil level. Use cardboard collars around young transplants and maintain weed-free beds.
Fungal & Bacterial Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani):
Dark, concentric leaf spots that start near the base of the plant. Prune lower leaves and mulch to prevent soil splash. Rotate crops annually and avoid overhead watering.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Small gray lesions with dark margins that move upward through the canopy. Remove infected leaves promptly and improve air circulation.
Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans):
Irregular brown patches on leaves and fruit, often in humid or rainy weather. Destroy infected plants immediately and avoid planting tomatoes or potatoes in the same location next year.
Bacterial Wilt:
Sudden wilting and yellowing despite adequate water. Prevent by using clean tools and avoiding soil compaction.
Blossom-End Rot:
Black, leathery spots at fruit bottoms due to calcium imbalance and inconsistent watering. Maintain steady moisture and even soil calcium with crushed eggshells or garden lime.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Cracking and Splitting:
Rapid water uptake after dry spells causes fruit skin to split. Maintain consistent moisture and mulch to regulate soil hydration.
Sunscald:
White, papery patches on exposed fruit. Avoid excessive leaf pruning and ensure partial shading in extreme heat.
Poor Fruit Set:
Often due to high daytime temperatures (above 90°F) or cold nights (below 55°F). Provide light shade during extreme heat and ensure proper pollination by gently shaking flowers.
Integrated Management Tips
Rotate tomato plantings every 3–4 years to prevent soil-borne diseases.
Space plants 24–36 inches apart for airflow and reduced humidity.
Mulch deeply to suppress soil splash and weed pressure.
Water at the base early in the day to dry foliage before evening.
Inspect weekly for pest or disease signs and remove affected leaves promptly.
Q: What makes Cherokee Purple tomatoes unique?
A: Cherokee Purple is renowned for its dusky rose-purple skin, deep red interior, and rich, complex flavor—often described as sweet, smoky, and wine-like. This heirloom variety stands out for both its taste and striking presentation on the plate.
Q: Are Cherokee Purple tomatoes heirloom or hybrid?
A: They are a true heirloom tomato—open-pollinated and stabilized over many generations. The strain became widely available after seed saver Craig LeHoullier introduced it in the early 1990s.
Q: How large do Cherokee Purple tomatoes get?
A: Fruits typically weigh 10–16 ounces, with some exceeding a full pound. They are large, meaty slicers perfect for sandwiches, salads, and caprese platters.
Q: What is the growth habit of Cherokee Purple?
A: This variety is indeterminate, meaning it continues to grow and produce fruit until frost. Provide sturdy staking or caging to support the heavy, sprawling vines.
Q: How long does it take Cherokee Purple tomatoes to mature?
A: Expect maturity in 75–90 days from transplant, depending on soil fertility, watering, and local climate.
Q: Why are my Cherokee Purple tomatoes cracking?
A: Cracking often results from irregular watering—especially after dry periods followed by heavy rain. Maintain steady moisture and mulch to prevent fluctuations.
Q: Why isn’t my Cherokee Purple tomato very purple?
A: The “purple” in Cherokee Purple is actually a dusky pinkish-red with green shoulders, not a deep violet color. The hue depends on sunlight exposure, temperature, and soil nutrients—cooler weather and less direct sun can make fruits appear more red than purple. Full sun and slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–6.8) bring out the richest color tones.
Q: Do Cherokee Purple tomatoes need pruning?
A: Light pruning is recommended. Remove suckers below the first flower cluster to improve airflow, reduce disease risk, and focus energy on fruit development.
Q: What’s the best spacing for Cherokee Purple tomato plants?
A: Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to promote air circulation and make trellising easier.
Q: How should I water Cherokee Purple tomatoes?
A: Water deeply once or twice per week—about 1 to 1½ inches total. Avoid overhead watering; instead, direct water at the base to reduce fungal problems.
Q: Are Cherokee Purple tomatoes disease-resistant?
A: They’re moderately resilient but not bred for disease resistance. Use crop rotation, mulch, and pruning to prevent early blight, Septoria leaf spot, and other common tomato diseases.
Q: When should I harvest Cherokee Purple tomatoes?
A: Harvest when fruits reach their muted rose-purple color with faint green shoulders and feel slightly soft to the touch. That’s when flavor peaks—rich, sweet, and smoky.
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Cherokee Purple Tomato Standard
$200 USD
$350
Unit price /
Unavailable
History & Culture — Cherokee Purple Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Cherokee Purple Tomato is one of the most iconic heirlooms in modern gardening, valued for its rich flavor and unique appearance. The variety entered the seed-saving community in 1991, when tomato grower Craig LeHoullier received seeds from J.D. Green of Tennessee, who claimed they had been passed down from the Cherokee people. While the story adds romantic depth to its name, genetic research suggests that Cherokee Purple shares closer ancestry with Eastern European (particularly Ukrainian) tomato lines introduced into the American South during the 20th century.
Regardless of its precise lineage, the variety’s enduring popularity speaks to its outstanding taste and adaptability. Its deep, dusky coloration—a mix of pink, purple, and red tones—reflects the pigments of anthocyanins and lycopene, both indicators of rich, flavorful fruit. The balance of sweetness, tang, and subtle earthiness has made Cherokee Purple a benchmark for heirloom flavor.
Since its introduction to the public, Cherokee Purple has become a staple in gardens across North America. It represents the intersection of heritage, myth, and flavor—a living symbol of the cultural and genetic blending that defines many beloved heirlooms.
To grow Cherokee Purple is to join a lineage of gardeners, seedkeepers, and farmers who value authenticity and taste over uniformity. Its story continues not only in its debated origins but in the hands of those who preserve it for future harvests—one dusky fruit at a time.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Cherokee Purple Tomato Standard
$200 USD
$350
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
The heirloom that turned gardeners into flavor chasers. Cherokee Purple Tomato bears large, dusky rose-purple fruits with deep crimson flesh and a smoky, sweet, full-bodied flavor that lingers on the tongue. Fruits average 10–12 oz, slightly flattened, and beautifully marbled, with soft shoulders that darken under the sun.
Plants are indeterminate and vigorous, stretching 4–6 feet tall with consistent mid-to-late season yields. Each vine produces heavy clusters of richly colored fruits that shine in salads, sandwiches, and fresh slices—where that signature tangy-sweet balance truly stands out.
First introduced to gardeners in 1991 by Craig LeHoullier from seed shared by J.D. Green of Tennessee, this variety was claimed to have Cherokee origins, though genetic studies hint at Eastern European lineage, possibly from Ukraine. The story remains part legend, part heritage—but the flavor, unmistakable. Cherokee Purple has since become one of the most celebrated heirlooms of all time, a garden essential wherever rich, true tomato taste is prized.
