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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Purple Bumble Bee Cherry
Sweet, streaked cherries in magenta and gold that dazzle both eye and palate.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TP10
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Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato is an indeterminate artisan variety celebrated for its striking marbled color and gourmet-quality flavor. Maturing in about 70–75 days, it produces abundant clusters of 1–1.5 inch round fruits with deep purplish-red skin streaked in golden hues—creating a beautiful, iridescent sheen that stands out in the garden and at market displays.
Fruits have a sweet, fruity flavor balanced by a subtle tang, with firm yet juicy flesh that holds exceptionally well after picking. Their size and consistent shape make them perfect for salads, roasting, and snacking straight off the vine. The color deepens with sun exposure, and the fruit resists cracking even under variable moisture conditions.
Plants are vigorous and long-bearing, often reaching 6–8 feet in height with proper trellising. They perform best in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil, with steady watering and organic feeding to maintain rich fruit color and flavor.
Bred by Artisan Seeds, the Purple Bumble Bee Cherry blends modern reliability with heirloom aesthetics—an exquisite tomato that offers both high yield and high artistry for growers who value beauty as much as taste.
$200 USD
$570
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Cage
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme
Maturity
70-79 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting during hot or dry periods to maintain steady moisture.
Water deeply and infrequently to promote strong roots and uniform fruit size.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent watering at soil level while keeping foliage dry to prevent disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once the soil warms to stabilize moisture and soil temperature.
Tip: Purple Bumble Bee develops its best flavor and color contrast under consistent moisture—dry swings can dull the striping and flavor intensity.
Fertilizing
Incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil before planting.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) during vegetative growth.
When flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to support abundant fruit set and deepen sweetness.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract every few weeks to prevent blossom end rot and strengthen plant tissues.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen leads to lush foliage and smaller fruit clusters.
Tip: For enhanced sweetness and richer purple coloration, ease off fertilizer slightly once fruiting is in full swing.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and pest attraction.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
When weeding, loosen soil gently—roots grow close to the surface and can be easily disturbed.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sun exposure—at least 6–8 hours daily—for strong color development and rich flavor.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (above 95°F or 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit scald.
Ensure proper airflow between plants to prevent fungal disease and humidity buildup.
Tip: Full sunlight deepens the purple-and-gold striping that defines this variety—shade can cause colors to fade.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate variety, Purple Bumble Bee requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises for continuous vertical growth.
Train vines upward to improve air circulation and harvesting ease.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and blight risk.
Tip: Pruning lightly helps concentrate the plant’s energy on producing uniform clusters of colorful fruit.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigolds, chives, onions, garlic, parsley, and carrots deter pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel, corn, and cabbage-family crops that can inhibit growth or attract competing pests.
Interplant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to attract beneficial insects such as lacewings and hoverflies.
Tip: Basil improves growth and helps deter aphids, making it an ideal companion for Bumble Bee tomatoes.
Container Growing
Excellent for large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with strong cage or trellis support.
Use rich organic potting soil blended with compost and perlite for proper drainage and aeration.
Check moisture daily in warm weather—container soil dries quickly.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or liquid tomato fertilizer to maintain nutrient balance.
Tip: Container plants often show stronger color contrast because of warmer root zones—just keep watering consistent.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cloches early in the season to warm soil and protect seedlings.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler climates.
As frost approaches, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before the first frost to focus energy on ripening fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Purple Bumble Bee fruits store exceptionally well off the vine—perfect for extended late-season enjoyment.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting during hot or dry periods to maintain steady moisture.
Water deeply and infrequently to promote strong roots and uniform fruit size.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent watering at soil level while keeping foliage dry to prevent disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once the soil warms to stabilize moisture and soil temperature.
Tip: Purple Bumble Bee develops its best flavor and color contrast under consistent moisture—dry swings can dull the striping and flavor intensity.
Fertilizing
Incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil before planting.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) during vegetative growth.
When flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (5-10-10) to support abundant fruit set and deepen sweetness.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract every few weeks to prevent blossom end rot and strengthen plant tissues.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen leads to lush foliage and smaller fruit clusters.
Tip: For enhanced sweetness and richer purple coloration, ease off fertilizer slightly once fruiting is in full swing.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and pest attraction.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
When weeding, loosen soil gently—roots grow close to the surface and can be easily disturbed.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sun exposure—at least 6–8 hours daily—for strong color development and rich flavor.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (above 95°F or 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit scald.
Ensure proper airflow between plants to prevent fungal disease and humidity buildup.
Tip: Full sunlight deepens the purple-and-gold striping that defines this variety—shade can cause colors to fade.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate variety, Purple Bumble Bee requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises for continuous vertical growth.
Train vines upward to improve air circulation and harvesting ease.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and blight risk.
Tip: Pruning lightly helps concentrate the plant’s energy on producing uniform clusters of colorful fruit.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, marigolds, chives, onions, garlic, parsley, and carrots deter pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel, corn, and cabbage-family crops that can inhibit growth or attract competing pests.
Interplant with flowering herbs like dill or coriander to attract beneficial insects such as lacewings and hoverflies.
Tip: Basil improves growth and helps deter aphids, making it an ideal companion for Bumble Bee tomatoes.
Container Growing
Excellent for large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with strong cage or trellis support.
Use rich organic potting soil blended with compost and perlite for proper drainage and aeration.
Check moisture daily in warm weather—container soil dries quickly.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or liquid tomato fertilizer to maintain nutrient balance.
Tip: Container plants often show stronger color contrast because of warmer root zones—just keep watering consistent.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cloches early in the season to warm soil and protect seedlings.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler climates.
As frost approaches, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before the first frost to focus energy on ripening fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Purple Bumble Bee fruits store exceptionally well off the vine—perfect for extended late-season enjoyment.
Additional Tips — Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach their signature coloration — a deep rose-purple base brushed with metallic green striping. Fruits should feel firm yet slightly yielding to the touch, with full color extending evenly across the skin. Each cherry averages 1–1.5 inches in diameter and weighs about 1 ounce.
Use pruning shears or scissors to harvest clusters, leaving a short stem attached to prevent tearing. Avoid hand-pulling, as the skin can tear when fully ripe.
Pick every two to three days once ripening begins to maintain continuous production. This indeterminate variety fruits steadily through the season, often in trusses of six to eight. Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation to prevent cracking and reduced flavor intensity. Slightly underripe fruits will finish ripening at room temperature within a few days.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Purple Bumble Bee offers a complex, balanced flavor — sweet yet tangy, with undertones of plum and a touch of earthy richness. The flavor profile sits between tropical fruit brightness and the deeper savoriness of darker heirlooms.
Excellent for fresh eating, salads, and farmers’ market displays, where its striking coloration draws immediate attention. The juicy, firm flesh resists splitting and holds well after picking, making it ideal for mixed cherry assortments, fresh snacks, and garnishes.
Roasting intensifies its sweetness while deepening the natural umami notes, making it suitable for sauces, roasted vegetable medleys, and slow-cooked dishes that benefit from concentrated tomato character.
Handling & Storage:
Store freshly harvested fruit at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a single layer, stem-side down, in a ventilated, shaded area. Avoid refrigeration, which mutes its nuanced sweetness and alters texture.
Keep fruits dry and well-aerated; use breathable baskets or paper-lined trays rather than sealed plastic containers. For short-term storage, slightly underripe fruits can be harvested and ripened indoors over 2–4 days.
Purple Bumble Bee’s firm skin and dense flesh make it one of the best cherry types for post-harvest handling — ideal for market transport, salad bars, or culinary plating without loss of texture.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Purple Bumble Bee benefits from consistent pruning and strong vertical support. Use tall cages, trellises, or string-training systems to support heavy clusters and maintain airflow.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to prevent soil splash and disease exposure. Lightly prune suckers below the first flower cluster to direct energy into fruit production.
Avoid aggressive pruning; retain sufficient leaf cover to prevent sunscald and support steady ripening. Maintain pruning every 10–14 days to ensure balanced vine structure and easier harvesting.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to enhance color and flavor intensity. The unique striping pattern develops best under strong light with consistent warmth.
Maintain even soil moisture through deep watering once or twice per week; inconsistent watering can cause cracking or irregular color development. Apply organic mulch after the soil warms to stabilize temperature, reduce evaporation, and prevent weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for even root-zone hydration and minimal leaf wetness. This variety performs best in fertile, well-drained soils rich in compost and organic matter.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from healthy plants producing uniform, true-to-type fruits with clear purple and green striping. Allow chosen fruit to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with water, ferment for 2–3 days to dissolve the seed coat, then rinse thoroughly. Spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh screen to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, ventilated area.
Store in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry environment. Properly cured Purple Bumble Bee seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomato varieties. For purity, maintain 25–50 feet of isolation or use pollination mesh.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Purple Bumble Bee thrives in gardens emphasizing pollinator health and soil biodiversity. Its extended bloom period and high nectar yield attract native bees, bumblebees, and hoverflies, improving overall fruit set.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly flowers such as calendula, borage, and sweet alyssum to sustain beneficial insect populations. Rotate tomato crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to reduce soil-borne disease accumulation.
Avoid planting near potatoes, peppers, or eggplants, which share common pathogens. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing for airflow and humidity control.
Annual compost incorporation enhances soil structure and biological activity. Though self-pollinating, bee vibration improves seed fill and fruit uniformity, especially in clustered trusses.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Purple Bumble Bee’s dazzling stripes and complex sweetness make it a favorite for gourmet and market use. Slice or halve for vibrant salads, where its contrasting interior color and juicy texture shine.
Pair with creamy cheeses, fresh basil, or balsamic reduction to highlight its bright acidity. When roasted or blistered, it adds depth and color to pasta, pizza, or grain bowls.
For elegant presentation, mix with gold, red, and green cherry varieties to create a multi-hued medley. The fruit retains color after light cooking, making it ideal for plating, skewers, and decorative garnishes.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach their signature coloration — a deep rose-purple base brushed with metallic green striping. Fruits should feel firm yet slightly yielding to the touch, with full color extending evenly across the skin. Each cherry averages 1–1.5 inches in diameter and weighs about 1 ounce.
Use pruning shears or scissors to harvest clusters, leaving a short stem attached to prevent tearing. Avoid hand-pulling, as the skin can tear when fully ripe.
Pick every two to three days once ripening begins to maintain continuous production. This indeterminate variety fruits steadily through the season, often in trusses of six to eight. Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation to prevent cracking and reduced flavor intensity. Slightly underripe fruits will finish ripening at room temperature within a few days.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Purple Bumble Bee offers a complex, balanced flavor — sweet yet tangy, with undertones of plum and a touch of earthy richness. The flavor profile sits between tropical fruit brightness and the deeper savoriness of darker heirlooms.
Excellent for fresh eating, salads, and farmers’ market displays, where its striking coloration draws immediate attention. The juicy, firm flesh resists splitting and holds well after picking, making it ideal for mixed cherry assortments, fresh snacks, and garnishes.
Roasting intensifies its sweetness while deepening the natural umami notes, making it suitable for sauces, roasted vegetable medleys, and slow-cooked dishes that benefit from concentrated tomato character.
Handling & Storage:
Store freshly harvested fruit at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a single layer, stem-side down, in a ventilated, shaded area. Avoid refrigeration, which mutes its nuanced sweetness and alters texture.
Keep fruits dry and well-aerated; use breathable baskets or paper-lined trays rather than sealed plastic containers. For short-term storage, slightly underripe fruits can be harvested and ripened indoors over 2–4 days.
Purple Bumble Bee’s firm skin and dense flesh make it one of the best cherry types for post-harvest handling — ideal for market transport, salad bars, or culinary plating without loss of texture.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate variety, Purple Bumble Bee benefits from consistent pruning and strong vertical support. Use tall cages, trellises, or string-training systems to support heavy clusters and maintain airflow.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to prevent soil splash and disease exposure. Lightly prune suckers below the first flower cluster to direct energy into fruit production.
Avoid aggressive pruning; retain sufficient leaf cover to prevent sunscald and support steady ripening. Maintain pruning every 10–14 days to ensure balanced vine structure and easier harvesting.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily to enhance color and flavor intensity. The unique striping pattern develops best under strong light with consistent warmth.
Maintain even soil moisture through deep watering once or twice per week; inconsistent watering can cause cracking or irregular color development. Apply organic mulch after the soil warms to stabilize temperature, reduce evaporation, and prevent weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for even root-zone hydration and minimal leaf wetness. This variety performs best in fertile, well-drained soils rich in compost and organic matter.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from healthy plants producing uniform, true-to-type fruits with clear purple and green striping. Allow chosen fruit to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with water, ferment for 2–3 days to dissolve the seed coat, then rinse thoroughly. Spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh screen to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, ventilated area.
Store in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry environment. Properly cured Purple Bumble Bee seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomato varieties. For purity, maintain 25–50 feet of isolation or use pollination mesh.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Purple Bumble Bee thrives in gardens emphasizing pollinator health and soil biodiversity. Its extended bloom period and high nectar yield attract native bees, bumblebees, and hoverflies, improving overall fruit set.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly flowers such as calendula, borage, and sweet alyssum to sustain beneficial insect populations. Rotate tomato crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to reduce soil-borne disease accumulation.
Avoid planting near potatoes, peppers, or eggplants, which share common pathogens. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing for airflow and humidity control.
Annual compost incorporation enhances soil structure and biological activity. Though self-pollinating, bee vibration improves seed fill and fruit uniformity, especially in clustered trusses.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Purple Bumble Bee’s dazzling stripes and complex sweetness make it a favorite for gourmet and market use. Slice or halve for vibrant salads, where its contrasting interior color and juicy texture shine.
Pair with creamy cheeses, fresh basil, or balsamic reduction to highlight its bright acidity. When roasted or blistered, it adds depth and color to pasta, pizza, or grain bowls.
For elegant presentation, mix with gold, red, and green cherry varieties to create a multi-hued medley. The fruit retains color after light cooking, making it ideal for plating, skewers, and decorative garnishes.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Purple Bumble Bee' Cherry (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large caterpillars, defoliation and fruit scarring)
Controls: Handpick hornworms in early morning or evening when they are most visible. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to naturally suppress populations. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) in the late afternoon, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep surrounding weeds under control to reduce host habitat for hornworm moths.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and stunted growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps to monitor infestations. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5–7 days, ensuring coverage on the underside of leaves. Encourage natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting dill, yarrow, or coriander nearby. Avoid overfertilization with nitrogen, which can stimulate soft, aphid-prone growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Install yellow sticky traps near plants to catch adult whiteflies. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap every 5–7 days until infestations decline. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps as biological control. Maintain airflow by pruning lower leaves and keeping the garden free of weeds.
Spider Mites (speckled leaves, bronzing, and fine webbing)
Controls: Increase humidity and mist foliage during hot, dry periods. Hose down leaves to knock mites off plants. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations are controlled. Avoid plant stress through consistent watering.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark, concentric spots on lower leaves and stems)
Controls: Rotate crops every year to prevent soilborne buildup. Avoid planting tomatoes near potatoes or peppers. Apply copper-based fungicides at the first appearance of leaf lesions. Prune for airflow and remove affected foliage promptly. Mulch to prevent soil splash during watering or rainfall.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small grayish spots leading to premature defoliation)
Controls: Mulch heavily, prune lower leaves, and apply copper fungicide as a preventive during humid weather. Remove infected leaves immediately and dispose of them away from the garden area. Avoid overhead watering and water plants at the soil level instead.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing and wilting from the base upward)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to suppress fungal spores. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain good drainage and consistent watering to reduce stress. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken patches on fruit bottoms)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and avoid erratic watering. Apply lime or calcium amendments if soil testing indicates deficiency. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers that can reduce calcium uptake.
Cracking (irregular watering or sudden rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Keep soil moisture consistent using mulch and regular irrigation. Avoid allowing soil to dry out completely between waterings. Harvest fruit promptly during periods of heavy rainfall to minimize cracking.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches on fruit from overexposure)
Controls: Retain enough foliage to shade fruits naturally. Avoid over-pruning, and use shade cloth during intense heat waves. Keep plants hydrated and maintain overall vigor to minimize sun stress.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and signs of fungal disease.
Rotate crops annually and avoid planting tomatoes in the same soil for multiple seasons.
Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash and retain even moisture.
Water at soil level to keep leaves dry and reduce disease spread.
Prune selectively for airflow while retaining upper canopy cover for shading fruit.
Encourage beneficial insects with diverse companion plantings.
Sanitize tools, cages, and trellises after each use to prevent pathogen transmission.
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large caterpillars, defoliation and fruit scarring)
Controls: Handpick hornworms in early morning or evening when they are most visible. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to naturally suppress populations. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) in the late afternoon, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep surrounding weeds under control to reduce host habitat for hornworm moths.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and stunted growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps to monitor infestations. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5–7 days, ensuring coverage on the underside of leaves. Encourage natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting dill, yarrow, or coriander nearby. Avoid overfertilization with nitrogen, which can stimulate soft, aphid-prone growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Install yellow sticky traps near plants to catch adult whiteflies. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap every 5–7 days until infestations decline. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps as biological control. Maintain airflow by pruning lower leaves and keeping the garden free of weeds.
Spider Mites (speckled leaves, bronzing, and fine webbing)
Controls: Increase humidity and mist foliage during hot, dry periods. Hose down leaves to knock mites off plants. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations are controlled. Avoid plant stress through consistent watering.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark, concentric spots on lower leaves and stems)
Controls: Rotate crops every year to prevent soilborne buildup. Avoid planting tomatoes near potatoes or peppers. Apply copper-based fungicides at the first appearance of leaf lesions. Prune for airflow and remove affected foliage promptly. Mulch to prevent soil splash during watering or rainfall.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small grayish spots leading to premature defoliation)
Controls: Mulch heavily, prune lower leaves, and apply copper fungicide as a preventive during humid weather. Remove infected leaves immediately and dispose of them away from the garden area. Avoid overhead watering and water plants at the soil level instead.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing and wilting from the base upward)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to suppress fungal spores. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain good drainage and consistent watering to reduce stress. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken patches on fruit bottoms)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and avoid erratic watering. Apply lime or calcium amendments if soil testing indicates deficiency. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers that can reduce calcium uptake.
Cracking (irregular watering or sudden rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Keep soil moisture consistent using mulch and regular irrigation. Avoid allowing soil to dry out completely between waterings. Harvest fruit promptly during periods of heavy rainfall to minimize cracking.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches on fruit from overexposure)
Controls: Retain enough foliage to shade fruits naturally. Avoid over-pruning, and use shade cloth during intense heat waves. Keep plants hydrated and maintain overall vigor to minimize sun stress.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and signs of fungal disease.
Rotate crops annually and avoid planting tomatoes in the same soil for multiple seasons.
Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash and retain even moisture.
Water at soil level to keep leaves dry and reduce disease spread.
Prune selectively for airflow while retaining upper canopy cover for shading fruit.
Encourage beneficial insects with diverse companion plantings.
Sanitize tools, cages, and trellises after each use to prevent pathogen transmission.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Purple Bumble Bee?
Purple Bumble Bee is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato celebrated for its striking beauty and complex, balanced flavor. The fruits are round, about 1–1.5 inches in diameter, and feature deep red skin marbled with iridescent green striping. This artisan tomato is part of the Bumble Bee series bred for exceptional color, crack resistance, and sweetness.
Q: How long does Purple Bumble Bee take to mature?
Expect 70–75 days from transplant to the first ripe fruits. Once fruiting begins, it continues producing abundantly until frost.
Q: How long does it take for Purple Bumble Bee seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 6–10 days at 75–90°F (24–32°C). Consistent warmth and humidity ensure strong, even sprouting.
Q: Does Purple Bumble Bee need special soil conditions?
It thrives in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Consistent watering and compost additions enhance both yield and fruit color intensity.
Q: What spacing do Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows spaced 36–48 inches apart. These vigorous vines perform best with staking, trellising, or caging to support their heavy clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Purple Bumble Bee is self-pollinating, though airflow and pollinator visits improve fruit set and size uniformity.
Q: Can I grow Purple Bumble Bee in containers?
Yes — use at least a 10–15 gallon container with high-quality potting soil and sturdy support. Keep soil moist but not soggy for consistent sweetness and yield.
Q: How tall do Purple Bumble Bee plants get?
Plants can reach 6–7 feet tall when fully supported. Pruning side shoots helps maintain shape and directs energy toward fruiting.
Q: Why are my Purple Bumble Bee fruits cracking?
Cracking is often caused by irregular watering or heavy rain after dry spells. Mulching and steady moisture help prevent this.
Q: How should I harvest Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are fully colored — deep red with green marbling — and slightly soft to the touch. Regular picking encourages continual production.
Q: How do I store Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a shallow, single layer. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe to preserve full flavor.
Q: Are Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Though primarily a snacking and salad tomato, they roast beautifully and maintain their vivid color in salsas and cooked dishes.
Q: Are Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes heirloom?
Purple Bumble Bee is a modern open-pollinated artisan variety derived from heirloom breeding stock, offering the same depth of flavor with improved resilience.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit may result from heat stress, poor pollination, or nutrient deficiency. Maintain balanced feeding and water evenly during flowering.
Q: Can I save seeds from Purple Bumble Bee?
Yes — as an open-pollinated variety, its seeds will come true to type. Select ripe fruits, ferment seeds 2–3 days in water, rinse thoroughly, and dry well before storing.
Q: What type of tomato is Purple Bumble Bee?
Purple Bumble Bee is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato celebrated for its striking beauty and complex, balanced flavor. The fruits are round, about 1–1.5 inches in diameter, and feature deep red skin marbled with iridescent green striping. This artisan tomato is part of the Bumble Bee series bred for exceptional color, crack resistance, and sweetness.
Q: How long does Purple Bumble Bee take to mature?
Expect 70–75 days from transplant to the first ripe fruits. Once fruiting begins, it continues producing abundantly until frost.
Q: How long does it take for Purple Bumble Bee seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 6–10 days at 75–90°F (24–32°C). Consistent warmth and humidity ensure strong, even sprouting.
Q: Does Purple Bumble Bee need special soil conditions?
It thrives in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Consistent watering and compost additions enhance both yield and fruit color intensity.
Q: What spacing do Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows spaced 36–48 inches apart. These vigorous vines perform best with staking, trellising, or caging to support their heavy clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Purple Bumble Bee is self-pollinating, though airflow and pollinator visits improve fruit set and size uniformity.
Q: Can I grow Purple Bumble Bee in containers?
Yes — use at least a 10–15 gallon container with high-quality potting soil and sturdy support. Keep soil moist but not soggy for consistent sweetness and yield.
Q: How tall do Purple Bumble Bee plants get?
Plants can reach 6–7 feet tall when fully supported. Pruning side shoots helps maintain shape and directs energy toward fruiting.
Q: Why are my Purple Bumble Bee fruits cracking?
Cracking is often caused by irregular watering or heavy rain after dry spells. Mulching and steady moisture help prevent this.
Q: How should I harvest Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are fully colored — deep red with green marbling — and slightly soft to the touch. Regular picking encourages continual production.
Q: How do I store Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a shallow, single layer. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe to preserve full flavor.
Q: Are Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Though primarily a snacking and salad tomato, they roast beautifully and maintain their vivid color in salsas and cooked dishes.
Q: Are Purple Bumble Bee tomatoes heirloom?
Purple Bumble Bee is a modern open-pollinated artisan variety derived from heirloom breeding stock, offering the same depth of flavor with improved resilience.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit may result from heat stress, poor pollination, or nutrient deficiency. Maintain balanced feeding and water evenly during flowering.
Q: Can I save seeds from Purple Bumble Bee?
Yes — as an open-pollinated variety, its seeds will come true to type. Select ripe fruits, ferment seeds 2–3 days in water, rinse thoroughly, and dry well before storing.
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History & Culture — Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Purple Bumble Bee Tomato is a modern artisan cherry variety from the Artisan Seeds breeding project, developed through open-pollinated selection for flavor, beauty, and resilience. Its deep magenta skin streaked with metallic green and gold reflects a contemporary revival of traditional breeding values — diversity, flavor, and adaptability. Created by breeder Fred Hempel in California, the Purple Bumble Bee embodies the spirit of small-scale, flavor-driven seedkeeping that bridges ancient agricultural wisdom and modern horticultural innovation.
Though new in name, its essence is ancient. The vibrant striping and balanced sweetness that define this variety are the result of millennia of human partnership with the tomato — a continuation of the Indigenous legacy of selecting plants for taste, color, and abundance.
In today’s gardens, the Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato stands as a living example of continuity through creativity. Each dazzling fruit connects the oldest traditions of the Americas with the artistry of today’s independent growers — proof that the story of the tomato continues to evolve through hands that still honor the seed.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Purple Bumble Bee Tomato is a modern artisan cherry variety from the Artisan Seeds breeding project, developed through open-pollinated selection for flavor, beauty, and resilience. Its deep magenta skin streaked with metallic green and gold reflects a contemporary revival of traditional breeding values — diversity, flavor, and adaptability. Created by breeder Fred Hempel in California, the Purple Bumble Bee embodies the spirit of small-scale, flavor-driven seedkeeping that bridges ancient agricultural wisdom and modern horticultural innovation.
Though new in name, its essence is ancient. The vibrant striping and balanced sweetness that define this variety are the result of millennia of human partnership with the tomato — a continuation of the Indigenous legacy of selecting plants for taste, color, and abundance.
In today’s gardens, the Purple Bumble Bee Cherry Tomato stands as a living example of continuity through creativity. Each dazzling fruit connects the oldest traditions of the Americas with the artistry of today’s independent growers — proof that the story of the tomato continues to evolve through hands that still honor the seed.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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