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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Igleheart Yellow Cherry
Golden cherries with honey-sweet flavor and heavy yields all season long.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM27
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato is an award-winning indeterminate heirloom variety cherished for its golden color, smooth texture, and exceptional sweetness. Maturing in about 70–75 days, this tomato produces prolific clusters of 1-inch bright yellow fruits that glow like drops of sunshine on the vine.
Fruits are remarkably sweet and fruity, with a clean, tropical flavor balanced by a gentle acidity that keeps them from being overly mild. The firm yet juicy flesh makes them ideal for fresh eating, salads, roasting, or adding golden contrast to mixed cherry assortments. Each fruit holds well on and off the vine, resisting cracking even in humid or rainy conditions.
Plants are vigorous and productive, growing 6–8 feet tall with heavy clusters ripening continuously through summer. They thrive in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil, with deep, consistent watering to maintain optimal flavor and yield.
Bred by Bill Igleheart of Indiana and winner of the Seed Savers Exchange Tomato Tasting Award, the Igleheart Yellow Cherry exemplifies what a modern heirloom can be—vivid, reliable, and bursting with old-fashioned sweetness. A true standout for gardeners who love both color and flavor in abundance.
$100 USD
$200
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Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Cage
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
70-79 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, adjusting slightly during hot or dry spells.
Water deeply and evenly to encourage robust roots and prevent fruit cracking.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to maintain consistent soil moisture while keeping foliage dry to prevent disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) after soil warms to retain moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Tip: Regular, even watering helps maintain Igleheart’s characteristic sweetness and prevents blossom end rot and fruit splitting.
Fertilizing
Before planting, enrich soil with 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, shift to a lower-nitrogen, higher-potassium fertilizer (5-10-10) to support fruit development and enhance color.
Add calcium or kelp extract monthly to prevent nutrient-related disorders and strengthen plant tissue.
Avoid excessive nitrogen—lush foliage delays fruiting and dilutes flavor.
Tip: Moderate fertility encourages the best balance between sweetness, acidity, and production.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and pest harborage.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to conserve moisture, regulate temperature, and enhance soil life.
Weed carefully near the stem—roots are shallow and can be damaged easily.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for optimal fruit color and sugar accumulation.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
Use 30–40% shade cloth when temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C) to protect blossoms and reduce stress.
Maintain adequate spacing for airflow and reduced humidity.
Tip: Consistent sunlight and good air movement enhance the bright yellow color and delicate skin texture.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart with 36–48 inches between rows.
As an indeterminate cherry type, Igleheart requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises for upright growth.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly to improve airflow and ease harvest.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and blight spread.
Tip: Gentle pruning focuses energy on fruit production and reduces the risk of foliar disease.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Promote beneficial insects: Interplant with nectar-rich flowering herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps—natural predators of aphids and whiteflies.
Habitat diversity: Incorporate flowering borders or hedgerows nearby to increase pollinator and predator activity across the garden.
Soil management: Rotate tomatoes annually with legumes or grains to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens. Avoid planting near other solanaceous crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplants) in consecutive years.
Weed habitat control: Maintain mulch and reduce standing weeds that harbor insect vectors of disease.
Tip: Encouraging beneficial insects and practicing crop rotation are scientifically proven IPM methods that outperform single “companion plant” myths.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with strong trellis or cage support.
Use rich organic potting soil with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily in hot weather—container-grown plants dry out quickly.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or organic tomato fertilizer to maintain vigor.
Tip: Mulching container surfaces prevents rapid drying and supports steady fruit production.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect seedlings from cool nights.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler regions.
As frost approaches, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to focus plant energy on ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Igleheart’s thin-skinned fruits ripen beautifully indoors—retain their golden color and sweetness after harvest.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, adjusting slightly during hot or dry spells.
Water deeply and evenly to encourage robust roots and prevent fruit cracking.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to maintain consistent soil moisture while keeping foliage dry to prevent disease.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) after soil warms to retain moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Tip: Regular, even watering helps maintain Igleheart’s characteristic sweetness and prevents blossom end rot and fruit splitting.
Fertilizing
Before planting, enrich soil with 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, shift to a lower-nitrogen, higher-potassium fertilizer (5-10-10) to support fruit development and enhance color.
Add calcium or kelp extract monthly to prevent nutrient-related disorders and strengthen plant tissue.
Avoid excessive nitrogen—lush foliage delays fruiting and dilutes flavor.
Tip: Moderate fertility encourages the best balance between sweetness, acidity, and production.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to prevent nutrient competition and pest harborage.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to conserve moisture, regulate temperature, and enhance soil life.
Weed carefully near the stem—roots are shallow and can be damaged easily.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for optimal fruit color and sugar accumulation.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
Use 30–40% shade cloth when temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C) to protect blossoms and reduce stress.
Maintain adequate spacing for airflow and reduced humidity.
Tip: Consistent sunlight and good air movement enhance the bright yellow color and delicate skin texture.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart with 36–48 inches between rows.
As an indeterminate cherry type, Igleheart requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises for upright growth.
Train vines vertically and prune lightly to improve airflow and ease harvest.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and blight spread.
Tip: Gentle pruning focuses energy on fruit production and reduces the risk of foliar disease.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Promote beneficial insects: Interplant with nectar-rich flowering herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps—natural predators of aphids and whiteflies.
Habitat diversity: Incorporate flowering borders or hedgerows nearby to increase pollinator and predator activity across the garden.
Soil management: Rotate tomatoes annually with legumes or grains to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens. Avoid planting near other solanaceous crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplants) in consecutive years.
Weed habitat control: Maintain mulch and reduce standing weeds that harbor insect vectors of disease.
Tip: Encouraging beneficial insects and practicing crop rotation are scientifically proven IPM methods that outperform single “companion plant” myths.
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with strong trellis or cage support.
Use rich organic potting soil with compost and perlite for drainage.
Check moisture daily in hot weather—container-grown plants dry out quickly.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or organic tomato fertilizer to maintain vigor.
Tip: Mulching container surfaces prevents rapid drying and supports steady fruit production.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to protect seedlings from cool nights.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler regions.
As frost approaches, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to focus plant energy on ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Igleheart’s thin-skinned fruits ripen beautifully indoors—retain their golden color and sweetness after harvest.
Additional Tips — Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits turn a glowing golden-yellow with translucent skin and slight firmness near the stem. Mature fruits average ¾–1 inch across, forming generous clusters that ripen uniformly from the top down.
Clip clusters using pruning shears or scissors rather than pulling individual fruits; this prevents tearing and prolongs post-harvest life.
Pick every two to three days during high production to encourage continued flowering. Avoid harvesting after rainfall or irrigation—excess moisture can dull flavor and cause surface cracking. Slightly underripe fruit will finish ripening indoors at 68–72 °F (20–22 °C), developing full sweetness and color within one to two days.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry offers a refined, candy-sweet flavor with bright notes of tropical fruit and honey balanced by a faint citrus tang. Its flesh is tender and juicy yet holds shape when halved, making it exceptional for fresh salads and garnishes.
The flavor remains stable under heat—ideal for quick roasting, sautéing, or blistering, where sugars caramelize into a mellow richness.
Chefs favor this variety for its clarity of color and sweetness in mixed-tomato dishes, chilled gazpachos, and bruschetta. Its golden hue adds natural brightness to fruit salads and cheese platters.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, ventilated space. Avoid refrigeration, which flattens sweetness and texture.
Lay fruits in shallow, single-layer baskets or trays to prevent bruising. The firm skin provides good shelf stability; when handled gently, fruits keep their luster for 6–8 days.
For transport, harvest just before full coloration; fruits will ripen uniformly off-vine without flavor loss.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate cherry type, Igleheart Yellow Cherry grows with vigor and benefits from disciplined training. Provide tall cages or trellises 6–7 feet high, tying vines regularly as they climb.
Remove lower leaves once established to reduce soil splash and disease exposure. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to direct early energy toward fruiting stems.
Maintain moderate foliage to shade ripening fruit and protect color integrity. Regular pruning ensures airflow, reduces fungal pressure, and facilitates easy harvesting of interior clusters.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for the brightest color and richest flavor. In extreme heat (above 95 °F / 35 °C), light afternoon shade prevents softening and color fading.
Water deeply once or twice weekly to maintain steady soil moisture. Irregular watering can cause cracking or flavor dilution. Apply mulch (straw, compost, or leaf mold) once soil warms to stabilize temperature and suppress weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone, keeping foliage dry to limit blight and septoria risk.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants bearing uniform golden fruits with pronounced sweetness. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine for mature, viable seed.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with water and ferment for 2–3 days to dissolve the gelatinous seed coat. Stir daily to prevent mold, rinse thoroughly, and spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, dry environment. Properly cured Igleheart Yellow Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes; maintain 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry thrives in organically rich, well-drained soils supported by robust microbial life. Its profuse blossoms attract bees, hoverflies, and beneficial wasps, boosting fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly species such as borage, calendula, or alyssum to sustain nectar sources throughout the season. Rotate tomato crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to replenish nitrogen and deter soil pathogens.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which host similar pests. Space plants 30 inches apart for balanced airflow and sunlight distribution. Annual compost applications maintain fertility and enhance flavor quality.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry’s sunshine-gold color and honeyed sweetness lend elegance to every dish. Serve fresh with herbs, soft cheeses, or citrus vinaigrettes for luminous contrast.
Roast with olive oil and rosemary for a golden relish, or combine with darker cherry varieties for visual and flavor complexity.
Pairs beautifully with goat cheese, grilled seafood, and fresh basil. For markets or table displays, mix with red and purple cherries to emphasize its radiant hue and translucent glow—the very embodiment of garden brightness.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits turn a glowing golden-yellow with translucent skin and slight firmness near the stem. Mature fruits average ¾–1 inch across, forming generous clusters that ripen uniformly from the top down.
Clip clusters using pruning shears or scissors rather than pulling individual fruits; this prevents tearing and prolongs post-harvest life.
Pick every two to three days during high production to encourage continued flowering. Avoid harvesting after rainfall or irrigation—excess moisture can dull flavor and cause surface cracking. Slightly underripe fruit will finish ripening indoors at 68–72 °F (20–22 °C), developing full sweetness and color within one to two days.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry offers a refined, candy-sweet flavor with bright notes of tropical fruit and honey balanced by a faint citrus tang. Its flesh is tender and juicy yet holds shape when halved, making it exceptional for fresh salads and garnishes.
The flavor remains stable under heat—ideal for quick roasting, sautéing, or blistering, where sugars caramelize into a mellow richness.
Chefs favor this variety for its clarity of color and sweetness in mixed-tomato dishes, chilled gazpachos, and bruschetta. Its golden hue adds natural brightness to fruit salads and cheese platters.
Handling & Storage:
Store harvested fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, ventilated space. Avoid refrigeration, which flattens sweetness and texture.
Lay fruits in shallow, single-layer baskets or trays to prevent bruising. The firm skin provides good shelf stability; when handled gently, fruits keep their luster for 6–8 days.
For transport, harvest just before full coloration; fruits will ripen uniformly off-vine without flavor loss.
Pruning & Support:
As an indeterminate cherry type, Igleheart Yellow Cherry grows with vigor and benefits from disciplined training. Provide tall cages or trellises 6–7 feet high, tying vines regularly as they climb.
Remove lower leaves once established to reduce soil splash and disease exposure. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to direct early energy toward fruiting stems.
Maintain moderate foliage to shade ripening fruit and protect color integrity. Regular pruning ensures airflow, reduces fungal pressure, and facilitates easy harvesting of interior clusters.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for the brightest color and richest flavor. In extreme heat (above 95 °F / 35 °C), light afternoon shade prevents softening and color fading.
Water deeply once or twice weekly to maintain steady soil moisture. Irregular watering can cause cracking or flavor dilution. Apply mulch (straw, compost, or leaf mold) once soil warms to stabilize temperature and suppress weeds.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone, keeping foliage dry to limit blight and septoria risk.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants bearing uniform golden fruits with pronounced sweetness. Allow chosen fruits to ripen completely on the vine for mature, viable seed.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with water and ferment for 2–3 days to dissolve the gelatinous seed coat. Stir daily to prevent mold, rinse thoroughly, and spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, dry environment. Properly cured Igleheart Yellow Cherry seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes; maintain 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry thrives in organically rich, well-drained soils supported by robust microbial life. Its profuse blossoms attract bees, hoverflies, and beneficial wasps, boosting fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with pollinator-friendly species such as borage, calendula, or alyssum to sustain nectar sources throughout the season. Rotate tomato crops every two to three years with legumes or leafy greens to replenish nitrogen and deter soil pathogens.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which host similar pests. Space plants 30 inches apart for balanced airflow and sunlight distribution. Annual compost applications maintain fertility and enhance flavor quality.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Igleheart Yellow Cherry’s sunshine-gold color and honeyed sweetness lend elegance to every dish. Serve fresh with herbs, soft cheeses, or citrus vinaigrettes for luminous contrast.
Roast with olive oil and rosemary for a golden relish, or combine with darker cherry varieties for visual and flavor complexity.
Pairs beautifully with goat cheese, grilled seafood, and fresh basil. For markets or table displays, mix with red and purple cherries to emphasize its radiant hue and translucent glow—the very embodiment of garden brightness.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Igleheart Yellow' Cherry (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large caterpillars, defoliation, and fruit damage)
Controls: Inspect plants during early morning or late evening when hornworms are most active. Handpick and destroy any found. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to provide natural control. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the day for organic management, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep weeds trimmed around the garden to prevent moth egg-laying.
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew, and stunted growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days until under control. Attract beneficial insects like lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting yarrow, dill, and fennel. Avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen, as tender new growth attracts aphids.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Set yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly to reduce populations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for long-term biological control. Maintain airflow by pruning lower leaves and removing nearby weeds.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzing of leaves)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and humidity. Spray plants with water to dislodge mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations subside. Avoid plant stress and high heat that promote mite outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark, target-like leaf spots and lower leaf yellowing)
Controls: Rotate crops annually and avoid planting near peppers or potatoes. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid periods. Water at soil level and remove affected foliage promptly. Mulch heavily to reduce soil splash.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (progressive yellowing and wilting of leaves)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal populations. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain consistent watering and proper soil drainage. Remove infected plants and disinfect garden tools to prevent spread.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (small grayish lesions, premature leaf drop)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively in humid conditions. Prune for airflow and remove infected leaves immediately. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture through mulching and regular watering. Test soil calcium levels and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization that interferes with calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or sudden rainfall)
Controls: Keep watering consistent and avoid cycles of drought and heavy irrigation. Mulch to stabilize soil moisture. Harvest fruit promptly after rainfall to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches on exposed fruit)
Controls: Maintain healthy leaf canopy for shading. Avoid heavy pruning. Provide 20–30% shade cloth during intense sunlight or heat waves.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and fungal symptoms.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch for moisture control and soil splash prevention.
Water deeply at soil level, keeping foliage dry.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping upper canopy for fruit protection.
Encourage beneficial insects through companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage promptly and disinfect tools regularly.
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large caterpillars, defoliation, and fruit damage)
Controls: Inspect plants during early morning or late evening when hornworms are most active. Handpick and destroy any found. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to provide natural control. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the day for organic management, ensuring full leaf coverage. Keep weeds trimmed around the garden to prevent moth egg-laying.
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew, and stunted growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days until under control. Attract beneficial insects like lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by planting yarrow, dill, and fennel. Avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen, as tender new growth attracts aphids.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and sooty mold)
Controls: Set yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly to reduce populations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for long-term biological control. Maintain airflow by pruning lower leaves and removing nearby weeds.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzing of leaves)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and humidity. Spray plants with water to dislodge mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations subside. Avoid plant stress and high heat that promote mite outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark, target-like leaf spots and lower leaf yellowing)
Controls: Rotate crops annually and avoid planting near peppers or potatoes. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid periods. Water at soil level and remove affected foliage promptly. Mulch heavily to reduce soil splash.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (progressive yellowing and wilting of leaves)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal populations. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain consistent watering and proper soil drainage. Remove infected plants and disinfect garden tools to prevent spread.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (small grayish lesions, premature leaf drop)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively in humid conditions. Prune for airflow and remove infected leaves immediately. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture through mulching and regular watering. Test soil calcium levels and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization that interferes with calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or sudden rainfall)
Controls: Keep watering consistent and avoid cycles of drought and heavy irrigation. Mulch to stabilize soil moisture. Harvest fruit promptly after rainfall to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches on exposed fruit)
Controls: Maintain healthy leaf canopy for shading. Avoid heavy pruning. Provide 20–30% shade cloth during intense sunlight or heat waves.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and fungal symptoms.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent buildup of soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch for moisture control and soil splash prevention.
Water deeply at soil level, keeping foliage dry.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping upper canopy for fruit protection.
Encourage beneficial insects through companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage promptly and disinfect tools regularly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Igleheart Yellow Cherry?
Igleheart Yellow Cherry is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its golden color, rich sweetness, and outstanding productivity. Developed by Dr. William Woys Weaver and named after his grandmother, the variety earned national recognition for its exceptional flavor and balanced acidity. The 1-inch fruits glow with a warm amber hue and deliver a honey-like sweetness rarely matched among yellow tomatoes.
Q: How long does Igleheart Yellow Cherry take to mature?
Expect 65–75 days from transplant to first ripe fruit. The vigorous vines yield prolifically all season, making it a favorite for fresh snacking and market gardens.
Q: How long does it take for Igleheart Yellow Cherry seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 5–10 days when kept between 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Igleheart Yellow Cherry need special soil conditions?
Like all tomatoes, it prefers fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Enrich with compost or aged manure for the best yield and sweetness.
Q: What spacing do Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Support with cages or trellises to accommodate heavy fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Igleheart Yellow Cherry is self-pollinating, though gentle airflow and pollinator activity can improve yield.
Q: Can I grow Igleheart Yellow Cherry in containers?
Yes — a 5–10 gallon container works well. Use rich potting soil and provide regular feeding and staking for vigorous growth.
Q: How tall do Igleheart Yellow Cherry plants get?
Plants reach 5–6 feet tall when supported. Prune lower leaves and suckers to promote airflow and manage growth.
Q: Why are my Igleheart Yellow Cherry fruits cracking?
Cracking occurs when watering fluctuates. Keep soil evenly moist, and use mulch to regulate temperature and moisture levels.
Q: How should I harvest Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are deep golden-yellow and slightly soft to the touch. Regular picking encourages continuous production.
Q: How do I store Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes after harvest?
Store at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a single layer, out of direct sunlight. Avoid refrigeration to maintain flavor and texture.
Q: Are Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their sweetness shines in fresh salads, roasted dishes, and preserves. They also make beautiful golden sauces and chutneys.
Q: Are Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes heirloom?
Yes — this variety is a true heirloom, bred from traditional seedstock and recognized by the Seed Savers Exchange for its excellence.
Q: Why are my tomatoes smaller than expected?
Small fruit can result from heat stress or inconsistent watering. Maintain steady conditions for full clusters of uniform fruit.
Q: Can I save seeds from Igleheart Yellow Cherry?
Yes. As an open-pollinated variety, it will grow true to type. Select fully ripe fruit, ferment seeds 2–3 days, rinse, and dry thoroughly before storing.
Q: What type of tomato is Igleheart Yellow Cherry?
Igleheart Yellow Cherry is an indeterminate, open-pollinated cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its golden color, rich sweetness, and outstanding productivity. Developed by Dr. William Woys Weaver and named after his grandmother, the variety earned national recognition for its exceptional flavor and balanced acidity. The 1-inch fruits glow with a warm amber hue and deliver a honey-like sweetness rarely matched among yellow tomatoes.
Q: How long does Igleheart Yellow Cherry take to mature?
Expect 65–75 days from transplant to first ripe fruit. The vigorous vines yield prolifically all season, making it a favorite for fresh snacking and market gardens.
Q: How long does it take for Igleheart Yellow Cherry seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate in 5–10 days when kept between 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in moist, well-drained seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Igleheart Yellow Cherry need special soil conditions?
Like all tomatoes, it prefers fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Enrich with compost or aged manure for the best yield and sweetness.
Q: What spacing do Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes need?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Support with cages or trellises to accommodate heavy fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Igleheart Yellow Cherry is self-pollinating, though gentle airflow and pollinator activity can improve yield.
Q: Can I grow Igleheart Yellow Cherry in containers?
Yes — a 5–10 gallon container works well. Use rich potting soil and provide regular feeding and staking for vigorous growth.
Q: How tall do Igleheart Yellow Cherry plants get?
Plants reach 5–6 feet tall when supported. Prune lower leaves and suckers to promote airflow and manage growth.
Q: Why are my Igleheart Yellow Cherry fruits cracking?
Cracking occurs when watering fluctuates. Keep soil evenly moist, and use mulch to regulate temperature and moisture levels.
Q: How should I harvest Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits are deep golden-yellow and slightly soft to the touch. Regular picking encourages continuous production.
Q: How do I store Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes after harvest?
Store at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a single layer, out of direct sunlight. Avoid refrigeration to maintain flavor and texture.
Q: Are Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. Their sweetness shines in fresh salads, roasted dishes, and preserves. They also make beautiful golden sauces and chutneys.
Q: Are Igleheart Yellow Cherry tomatoes heirloom?
Yes — this variety is a true heirloom, bred from traditional seedstock and recognized by the Seed Savers Exchange for its excellence.
Q: Why are my tomatoes smaller than expected?
Small fruit can result from heat stress or inconsistent watering. Maintain steady conditions for full clusters of uniform fruit.
Q: Can I save seeds from Igleheart Yellow Cherry?
Yes. As an open-pollinated variety, it will grow true to type. Select fully ripe fruit, ferment seeds 2–3 days, rinse, and dry thoroughly before storing.
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History & Culture — Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato is a modern American heirloom developed by longtime seed steward Evelyn Igleheart. Her goal was simple yet profound — to create a small, golden cherry tomato that combined exceptional sweetness with the vigor and productivity of classic heirlooms. The result, selected from open-pollinated lines, quickly became beloved for its honey-like flavor and glowing yellow hue.
Though contemporary in creation, its spirit is ancient. The Igleheart’s color and size reflect traits first valued by Indigenous farmers in Mesoamerica, who cultivated yellow-fruited tomatoes for their sweetness and ceremonial significance. In this way, the variety continues a story that began thousands of years ago — human hands shaping flavor, color, and form through patient care and shared seed.
In today’s gardens, the Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato glows as a tribute to both old and new seedkeepers. Each fruit carries the warmth of the sun and the continuity of the seed — linking Evelyn Igleheart’s modern craftsmanship to the deep agricultural heritage of the Americas.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato is a modern American heirloom developed by longtime seed steward Evelyn Igleheart. Her goal was simple yet profound — to create a small, golden cherry tomato that combined exceptional sweetness with the vigor and productivity of classic heirlooms. The result, selected from open-pollinated lines, quickly became beloved for its honey-like flavor and glowing yellow hue.
Though contemporary in creation, its spirit is ancient. The Igleheart’s color and size reflect traits first valued by Indigenous farmers in Mesoamerica, who cultivated yellow-fruited tomatoes for their sweetness and ceremonial significance. In this way, the variety continues a story that began thousands of years ago — human hands shaping flavor, color, and form through patient care and shared seed.
In today’s gardens, the Igleheart Yellow Cherry Tomato glows as a tribute to both old and new seedkeepers. Each fruit carries the warmth of the sun and the continuity of the seed — linking Evelyn Igleheart’s modern craftsmanship to the deep agricultural heritage of the Americas.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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