Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The indigo marvel that made gardeners rethink what a tomato could look like. Dancing with Smurfs dazzles with small, glossy fruits that blush from deep midnight blue to crimson red beneath the calyx, each one a burst of color and flavor chemistry at work. The pigments that give them their inky hue—anthocyanins—are the same antioxidants found in blueberries, lending both beauty and nutritional punch to the harvest.
The plants are vigorous yet compact, branching freely and topping out around 3–4 feet tall, ideal for garden beds or large containers. Clusters of 1-inch cherry tomatoes cascade along each stem, ripening in waves from midsummer until frost. Their skin is firm, resisting cracking, yet thin enough to pop easily between your teeth.
On the tongue, Dancing with Smurfs strikes a balance—sweet and tangy, with hints of plum and berry. It’s the kind of tomato that looks bred for show but performs like a workhorse, rewarding steady care with basket after basket of richly pigmented fruit.
Developed through breeding programs inspired by wild South American tomato species, this variety honors ancient Andean genetics while embracing modern vigor. The result is a tomato both ancestral and new, where science and tradition meet in a living piece of art.
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Dancing With Smurfs Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water weekly, increasing slightly during dry spells or heavy fruiting.
Water deeply and evenly to encourage strong roots and reduce splitting, which can occur with anthocyanin-rich skins.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to maintain consistent soil moisture and avoid wetting the foliage.
Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening, as it can promote foliar disease.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once soil warms to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Tip: Anthocyanin-rich varieties like Dancing With Smurfs require steady soil moisture for even pigmentation and firm skins—irregular watering causes patchy color and cracking.
Fertilizing
Before planting, mix 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the soil to build fertility and improve texture.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to promote fruiting and deepen color.
Supplement monthly with calcium or kelp extract to strengthen stems and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen leads to excessive vine growth and reduced anthocyanin expression.
Tip: Moderate, consistent feeding enhances both yield and the deep purple-blue pigments unique to this variety.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to minimize pest refuge and competition.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to stabilize soil moisture, suppress weeds, and encourage beneficial soil microorganisms.
Weed carefully around the base to protect shallow feeder roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sunlight—6–8 hours daily for optimal anthocyanin expression.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (above 95°F / 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and prevent stress-related cracking.
Ensure good airflow between plants to reduce humidity and prevent fungal issues like powdery mildew and early blight.
Tip: Ultraviolet exposure enhances the purple pigmentation on the shoulders—consistent sun is key to color intensity.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart with 36–48 inches between rows.
As an indeterminate cherry type, Dancing With Smurfs requires sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises to support vigorous vertical growth.
Train vines upward for improved airflow and easier harvesting.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and early blight transmission.
Tip: Vertical training and selective pruning improve fruit quality and sunlight penetration for uniform color development.
Encourage beneficial insects: Interplant with nectar-rich herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps that prey on aphids, thrips, and whiteflies.
Pollinator attraction: Include flowering plants like calendula, cosmos, or native asters nearby to sustain bee populations for better fruit set.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes or cereals for at least 2–3 years to reduce soilborne pathogens. Avoid following with other nightshades (peppers, potatoes, or eggplants).
Soil biodiversity: Maintain mulch or cover crops to support beneficial nematodes and microbial life.
Tip: Research confirms that biodiversity and crop rotation reduce pest and disease occurrence more effectively than traditional “companion planting.”
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 15–20 gallons) with tall cage or trellis support.
Use high-quality organic potting soil enriched with compost and perlite for drainage and aeration.
Monitor soil moisture daily—container-grown plants dry out faster in warm weather.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or liquid tomato fertilizer for sustained productivity.
Tip: Mulching container surfaces maintains even soil moisture and enhances anthocyanin pigment formation.
Season Extension
Use row covers or tunnels early in the season to protect seedlings and maintain warmth.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler climates.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to channel energy into ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Fruits will continue to develop their purple pigment after harvest if exposed to indirect light—store at room temperature for best results.
Additional Tips — Dancing with Smurfs Tomato
Harvesting:
Pick fruits when the base turns deep red beneath the indigo shoulders—this stage gives the richest balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma.
Use pruners or snip gently to avoid tearing stems; cherry clusters can be harvested whole for easier handling.
Frequent picking encourages continuous production.
Tip: For market display or kitchen use, let tomatoes sit at room temperature for 2–3 days after harvest to deepen color and sweetness. Avoid refrigeration until fully ripe.
Flavor & Nutrition:
The striking blue pigment comes from anthocyanins, antioxidants known for supporting cellular and cardiovascular health.
Fruits deliver a balanced flavor profile—sweet, tangy, and slightly smoky, with subtle berry-like undertones unique to anthocyanin tomatoes.
Color intensifies most in full sunlight, so fruit ripened on the vine has the deepest hue and richest taste.
Handling:
The fruits are firm and resist cracking but bruise if overfilled in baskets.
Handle gently to preserve the thin skin and glossy appearance.
Wipe with a damp cloth rather than washing if storing short-term to reduce spoilage.
Storage & Preservation:
Room temperature: Store ripe fruit at 60–70°F for up to a week.
Refrigeration: Use only for fully ripe tomatoes; allow to return to room temp before eating to restore flavor.
Freezing: Core and freeze whole or halved for sauces and soups.
Drying: Slice and dehydrate at 120°F for chewy, smoky-sweet chips or grind for seasoning powder.
Canning: Combine with red paste tomatoes to add color and antioxidants to sauces.
Kitchen Use:
Perfect for fresh snacking, salads, and charcuterie boards.
Add sliced fruits to caprese salads or roast for visual flair and caramelized sweetness.
Pairs beautifully with basil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, and fresh mozzarella.
For sauces, blend with red or orange tomatoes to balance acidity and sweetness while retaining color depth.
Growing & Pruning Tips:
Keep lower stems pruned for airflow and disease prevention.
Pinch side shoots lightly but do not over-prune; compact indeterminate growth ensures steady fruiting.
Mulch with straw or compost to stabilize moisture and prevent soil splash.
Feed with compost tea or fish emulsion every 2–3 weeks for sustained vigor.
Containers & Watering:
Use 5–10 gallon pots with high-quality potting mix and drainage holes.
Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry—avoid shallow daily watering.
Shade container sides during peak summer heat to prevent root stress.
Companion Planting & Pollinators:
Interplant with basil, marigold, oregano, or alyssum to attract bees and deter pests.
Avoid planting near fennel or potatoes, which compete for nutrients or harbor disease.
Good airflow and diverse pollinators improve fruit set and color uniformity.
Seed Saving:
Choose fruits that show full pigmentation and balanced flavor—dark shoulders with red bases.
Ferment seeds 3–4 days in water, rinse, then dry 7–10 days on a breathable surface.
Store in airtight jars with desiccant in a cool, dark place.
Test annually by germinating 10 seeds; viable seed should maintain 80%+ germination for 4–6 years.
Common Pests & Problems — Dancing with Smurfs Tomato
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Blast with water or apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage lady beetles and lacewings for biological control.
Whiteflies (clouds when disturbed; honeydew on leaves)
Controls: Yellow sticky traps, early morning vacuuming, insecticidal soap, or neem oil.
Spider Mites (fine stippling, webbing in heat/drought)
Controls: Increase humidity, rinse undersides of leaves, apply horticultural oil, and release predatory mites if available.
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars that strip leaves)
Controls: Handpick at dusk; use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) on small larvae; invite parasitic wasps for natural suppression.
Flea Beetles (shot-hole leaf damage on young plants)
Controls: Row cover until flowering, trap crops, and sprinkle diatomaceous earth around stems.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: Collars around stems, keep soil debris-free, and handpick pests in the evening.
Thrips (silvery scarring, distorted new growth, virus carriers)
Controls: Blue or yellow sticky cards, remove weeds and spent blooms, apply spinosad or insecticidal soap.
Diseases
Early Blight (brown concentric spots on lower leaves)
Prevention: Crop rotation (3+ years), mulch to prevent soil splash, avoid overhead watering.
Management: Remove affected leaves; copper or biofungicides can suppress spread.
Late Blight (grayish-black lesions on leaves and fruit in cool, wet weather)
Prevention: Ensure spacing and airflow; water early in the day.
Management: Remove and destroy infected plants immediately; rotate crops.
Powdery Mildew (white powdery growth on leaves, usually late-season)
Prevention: Airflow and full sun exposure; avoid nitrogen overuse.
Management: Remove worst leaves; sulfur or potassium bicarbonate sprays may help.
Bacterial Spot & Speck (small, dark lesions on leaves and fruit)
Prevention: Start with clean seed, avoid overhead watering, and sanitize tools.
Management: Copper sprays can reduce spread; remove infected foliage.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilts (yellowing and wilting, one side first)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae for 3+ years; solarize soil if possible; remove infected plants.
Anthracnose (sunken fruit lesions, especially on ripe tomatoes)
Prevention: Mulch to reduce splash, water at soil level, pick fruit promptly.
Management: Remove and destroy affected fruit; apply organic protectants.
Blossom End Rot (dry, sunken black end on fruit)
Cause: Irregular watering or calcium transport failure.
Fix: Maintain consistent soil moisture; mulch to moderate swings; avoid root disturbance.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Sunscald (white or yellow patches on fruit exposed to sudden sun)
Fix: Maintain leaf cover; avoid heavy pruning during high heat.
Cracking (splitting after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep watering consistent; harvest promptly.
Poor Fruit Set
Cause: Heat >95°F, nights <55°F, or nitrogen excess.
Fix: Provide steady moisture, moderate feeding, and afternoon shade during heat spikes.
Monitoring & Prevention (Quick Checklist)
Inspect weekly, especially undersides of leaves and new growth.
Water at soil level—use drip or soaker hoses to prevent splash.
Space plants 18–24" apart for airflow.
Mulch after soil warms to retain moisture and prevent soil-borne disease.
Rotate crops 3–4 years away from tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes.
Sanitize tools and remove diseased material immediately—do not compost unless fully decomposed.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: What makes Dancing with Smurfs unique among cherry tomatoes?
Its rich indigo-blue pigment, caused by anthocyanins—the same antioxidants in blueberries—sets it apart. Beneath the deep blue shoulders, the fruit ripens to red, offering a beautiful gradient and nutrient-dense flavor experience.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Expect maturity in 75–80 days from transplant to ripe fruit, depending on climate and care.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds typically germinate in 7–14 days when kept at 75–90°F (24–32°C) with steady moisture and warmth. Cooler temperatures can delay or reduce germination.
Q: Does Dancing with Smurfs need special soil or conditions?
No special soil, but it thrives in well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.0–6.8) with consistent moisture. Avoid heavy clay or waterlogged sites.
Q: How much sunlight does it need?
Provide full sun (6–8 hours minimum) for best pigmentation and yield. The anthocyanins deepen most in bright light.
Q: How large does the plant grow?
Compact indeterminate, typically 3–4 feet tall with steady branching. It’s ideal for garden beds, raised beds, and large containers.
Q: How far apart should I plant them?
Plant 18–24 inches apart in rows spaced 24–36 inches apart to allow good airflow and easy picking.
Q: Does it need staking or caging?
Yes, use stakes or tomato cages to support fruit-heavy clusters and prevent lodging.
Q: Are the fruits sweet or acidic?
Balanced—mildly sweet with gentle acidity and berry-like undertones, a complex flavor uncommon in novelty-colored tomatoes.
Q: How many fruits per plant can I expect?
Each plant can yield hundreds of cherry tomatoes throughout the growing season when well-fed and watered consistently.
Q: Can I grow them in containers?
Yes, choose a 5–10 gallon pot with rich potting mix and excellent drainage. Water regularly and stake for support.
Q: Can I save seeds?
Absolutely. Allow ripe fruit to soften fully, then ferment pulp for 3–4 days in water, rinse, and dry seeds 7–10 days before storing cool and dark.
Q: Why are my tomatoes cracking?
Cracking happens after irregular watering or heavy rain. Keep moisture consistent and mulch to stabilize soil conditions.
Q: Are they resistant to heat and drought?
Moderately. The plants handle heat and short dry spells well but prefer consistent watering for steady fruiting and color development.
Q: Are these tomatoes GMO?
No—Dancing with Smurfs is open-pollinated and non-GMO.
Q: Are the blue pigments edible?
Yes. The blue color comes from natural anthocyanins, which are antioxidants beneficial to human health.
History & Culture — Dancing With Smurfs Cherry Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Dancing With Smurfs Tomato is a striking modern open-pollinated variety known for its deep indigo skin, a product of anthocyanin pigments inherited from wild tomato ancestors native to the Andes. Bred by independent breeder Tom Wagner, it was named for its whimsical, midnight-blue fruits that darken in sunlight — a visual and genetic nod to both playfulness and ancient resilience.
These pigments, once common in wild Solanum species, were reintroduced into cultivated tomatoes through natural breeding, restoring traits that had been lost through centuries of commercial selection. In this way, Dancing With Smurfs represents a reunion between modern seed art and ancient biodiversity — proof that the genetic gifts of Indigenous farmers still guide the evolution of food today.
In today’s gardens, the Dancing With Smurfs Cherry Tomato glows like twilight among the vines. Each fruit tells a story of renewal — of Indigenous wisdom rediscovered, of modern creativity, and of the unbroken thread of seedkeeping that connects the earliest gardens of the Americas to those who still cherish and grow their legacy.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Dancing With Smurfs Cherry
$200 USD
$425
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
The indigo marvel that made gardeners rethink what a tomato could look like. Dancing with Smurfs dazzles with small, glossy fruits that blush from deep midnight blue to crimson red beneath the calyx, each one a burst of color and flavor chemistry at work. The pigments that give them their inky hue—anthocyanins—are the same antioxidants found in blueberries, lending both beauty and nutritional punch to the harvest.
The plants are vigorous yet compact, branching freely and topping out around 3–4 feet tall, ideal for garden beds or large containers. Clusters of 1-inch cherry tomatoes cascade along each stem, ripening in waves from midsummer until frost. Their skin is firm, resisting cracking, yet thin enough to pop easily between your teeth.
On the tongue, Dancing with Smurfs strikes a balance—sweet and tangy, with hints of plum and berry. It’s the kind of tomato that looks bred for show but performs like a workhorse, rewarding steady care with basket after basket of richly pigmented fruit.
Developed through breeding programs inspired by wild South American tomato species, this variety honors ancient Andean genetics while embracing modern vigor. The result is a tomato both ancestral and new, where science and tradition meet in a living piece of art.
