Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Bright, crisp, and early. Sweet Diamond Bell delivers classic bell flavor in a faster, compact package—zero heat (0 SHU)—with clean sweetness at green stage and fuller, fruity notes as it ripens to scarlet. Bred for reliability in shorter seasons and cooler nights, it sets steadily where other bells stall.
Plants are tidy yet vigorous, typically 18–24 inches tall with a branching, upright habit that fits beds or containers. Dark foliage frames clusters of blocky, 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches wide with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit mature from glossy green to bright red, often earlier than standard bells, giving you a long picking window.
In the kitchen, Sweet Diamond is your weeknight workhorse: fresh for salads and snack trays, stuffed (walls hold their shape), and roasted or grilled for sandwiches and pastas. It blisters and peels cleanly for roasted-pepper strips and makes standout sheet-pan sides when quartered. Diced, it freezes well without turning watery.
Selected for dependable performance, Sweet Diamond Bell rewards steady moisture and full sun with uniform fruit set. Harvest green for yield and crunch or let clusters color for maximum sweetness and vitamins. A strong choice for gardeners seeking early bells with market-ready looks and flavor.
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How To Grow — Diamond Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Site and Light
Full sun, 6 to 8 hours daily
Gentle afternoon shade helps maintain skin quality during heat spikes and supports even coloring from ivory to red
Soil and Fertility
Loose, well drained loam rich in organic matter, pH 6.2 to 6.8
Work in finished compost before the season for steady nutrition
Keep nitrogen moderate during growth so plants flower and color on time
Spacing and Support
Space 18 to 24 inches between plants, 24 to 30 inches between rows
Use a compact cage or low ring stake. Blocky bells can weigh down laterals as they size and color
Watering and Mulch
Maintain even moisture from first bloom through harvest to prevent leathery skins and blossom end issues
Water deeply so the full root zone is moistened, then allow the top inch to dry slightly before the next irrigation
Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce evaporation
Feeding in Season
Begin light, regular feeding at first flowers with a balanced program that emphasizes potassium and calcium
Avoid heavy nitrogen once fruiting begins. Excess leaf growth can delay color change and dilute sweetness
Temperature and Season Management
Best performance with days 70 to 85°F and nights 60 to 70°F
Flower drop increases above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F. Provide 30 to 40 percent shade cloth during heat waves and use row cover in cool snaps
Black mulch or warmed beds support early-season vigor in cooler regions
Pruning, Airflow and Pollination
Lightly thin dense interior foliage to improve airflow. Do not hard prune
Remove damaged leaves promptly to reduce pest harborage
Flowers are self fertile. Planting small-flowered herbs like basil and alyssum nearby encourages pollinators and can improve set
Containers
Use a high quality potting mix with added perlite or bark for drainage and air space
Container size of 5 to 7 gallons works. Ten gallons improves pod size and uniformity
Check moisture often in hot weather and water until slight runoff. Feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Uneven coloring from ivory to red: Heat stress and dry spells slow pigment development. Keep moisture steady and add light afternoon shade during heat spikes
Blossom end problems: Typically linked to uneven watering or low calcium availability. Maintain consistent moisture and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen
Aphids, thrips, mites: Encourage beneficials with basil, coriander and alyssum. Spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours
Sunscald on light pods: Ivory stage can sunburn more readily. Preserve a modest leaf canopy and provide brief afternoon shade in extreme heat
Harvest and Postharvest
Pick at pale ivory for mild, crisp flavor or wait for full red for peak sweetness and thicker walls
Cut with snips and leave a short stem to protect fruiting nodes
Rest harvested pods in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration
Additional Tips - Diamond Bell Pepper (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Harvest at pale ivory for tender, mild, lightly grassy crunch in salads and sautés, or allow pods to blush through cream and gold to full red for richest sweetness and thicker walls for roasting and stuffing.
Clean cuts: Use fine-tip pruners to snip pods with a short stem. Annuum pedicels can tear if yanked, which stresses nodes and can slow further flowering.
Batch strategy: For uniform stuffed peppers or roasted-pepper batches, schedule one or two concentrated harvests at deep red. For fresh snacking, pick continuously as ivory pods size up and color in.
Shade cure: After picking, lay pods one layer deep in a shaded, breezy spot for 2 to 4 days to even color, finish sugars, and stabilize skins before refrigeration or dehydration.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: Ivory stage is crisp and mild with cucumber and sweet pea notes. Red stage is fuller, honeyed, and fruity with low bitterness and a gentle bell aroma.
Nutrient notes: Carotenoids and vitamin C rise significantly as pods turn red, which supports color, sweetness, and antioxidant value.
Kitchen sweetness control: Leave placental ribs intact when roasting for maximum sweetness and juiciness. For tighter texture in raw salads and salsas, deseed and remove ribs to reduce moisture bleed.
Handling
Mild and safe: Gloves are optional. If processing lots of pods for relishes or jams, light gloves help prevent skin dryness from pepper oils.
Clean transitions: Wash knives and boards with hot soapy water, then a splash of vinegar to cut oils before switching to fruit, cheese, or desserts.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Refrigerate unwashed in a paper-lined container with the lid slightly ajar to manage humidity. Quality holds 7 to 10 days at ivory, often a bit longer at red if skins are unblemished.
Roasting and peeling: Broil or pan-char until blistered, steam under a bowl 10 minutes, peel, then slice for antipasto, sandwiches, omelets, and grain bowls.
Grilling: Halve, oil lightly, grill cut side down until just tender, finish with lemon and olive oil for salads and mezze.
Quick pickles: Slice rings or strips, pack with garlic and mustard seed. Excellent for sandwiches, charcuterie, and pasta salads.
Relish and jam: Simmer fine-diced red pods with onion, a touch of vinegar, and sugar for a sweet pepper spread that pairs with cheese and grilled meats.
Dehydrating: Slice into rings or small strips and dry at 115 to 120°F, then jar whole. Grind just before use for a sweet pepper sprinkle that lifts eggs, soups, and roasted vegetables.
Freezing: Dice or slice, freeze flat on a sheet, then bag for easy handfuls. Great for weeknight sautés, frittatas, pizza, and soups.
Kitchen Use
Everyday uses: Fresh for salads, lunch boxes, and crudités. Stuff ivory pods with herbed ricotta or tuna salad for crisp appetizers.
Cooking: Sheet-pan roasts with onions and sausage, red pepper bisque, shakshuka, fajitas, pasta primavera, and Mediterranean grain salads.
Flavor pairings: Basil, parsley, oregano, thyme, lemon, balsamic, olive oil, garlic, mild cheeses, smoked paprika, chickpeas, poultry, and white fish.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Habit and support: Compact plants set blocky bells early. Use a low ring stake or small cage to keep clusters from bending laterals when loaded.
Sun and airflow: Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun with spacing that allows leaves to dry quickly after rain. Light tip pinching at 8 to 10 inches encourages branching and heavier set.
Set reliability: Flower set may drop in extremes above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F. Add 30 to 40 percent shade cloth during heat spikes, and avoid letting soil swing from dry to sopping.
Nutrient balance: Aim for moderate nitrogen and good potassium and calcium for thick walls and clean blossom-end quality. Excess nitrogen pushes foliage at the expense of fruiting.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5 to 7 gallons is a solid minimum. Larger volumes support steadier moisture, thicker walls, and more uniform pods.
Moisture: Keep even moisture with deep, regular watering. Erratic wet-dry cycles can toughen skins, invite blossom-end issues, and mute sweetness. Mulch to stabilize soil temperature.
Fertilizer rhythm: In containers, feed lightly every 10 to 14 days with a balanced or bloom-forward feed once fruit set begins. In beds, side-dress with compost and potassium-rich amendments midseason.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Interplant with basil, coriander, dill, and sweet alyssum to draw hoverflies and parasitic wasps that help manage aphids and thrips. Small flowers also encourage bee visitation for heavier set.
Soil partners: Onions and scallions fit well at the row edge without shading. Avoid close proximity to fennel, which can compete for space and beneficials.
Seed Saving
True-to-type selection: Choose from plants with uniform blocky bells that transition from ivory to clean red, with thick, sweet walls and low bitterness. Avoid off-type elongated shapes or pointed tips.
Isolation: Separate from other C. annuum peppers if purity is important. For small gardens, bag a few flower clusters with mesh or isolate plants by distance and barriers.
Dry and store: Ferment or wash seeds free of pulp, then air-dry 7 to 10 days until snappy. Bottle with a small desiccant and store cool and dark. Test annually with a simple 10 seed germination check.
Common Pests & Problems — Sweet ‘Diamond’ Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Blast colonies with water; follow with insecticidal soap or neem. Break up ant trails (they protect aphids). Plant nectar sources (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to support lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing in hot/dry spells)
Controls: Increase humidity (mulch, water paths), hose undersides, rotate horticultural oil and neem at 5–7 day intervals. In tunnels/greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites.
Whiteflies (adults flutter on disturbance; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem. Weed sanitation around beds.
Thrips (silvery scarring, twisted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards; remove spent flowers and nearby weedy hosts; spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on young leaves)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth rings; trap crops (radishes). Keep beds clean.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; clear plant debris; handpick at dusk where pressure is known.
Caterpillars (fruitworms/armyworms/loopers) (chewed leaves, holes in pods)
Controls: Scout daily; handpick; apply Bt kurstaki to small larvae. Manage tall grassy margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (stings/larvae within pods)
Controls: Time harvests before peak oviposition; remove and destroy infested fruit; baited traps per local extension timing.
Pepper weevil / fruit borers (warm regions) (premature fruit drop; internal tunneling)
Controls: Tight sanitation; frequent harvest; destroy culls; consult extension for pheromone trap timing.
Slugs & snails (seedlings and low-hanging fruit)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits, beer traps, copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown spots; defoliation)
Prevention: Clean/treated seed; rotate 3+ years from Solanaceae; avoid overhead watering; sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected leaves; copper products can protect new growth (follow labels and intervals).
Anthracnose (on ripening pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; wide spacing; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit promptly; consider protectant fungicides in warm, wet stretches.
Phytophthora blight / root rot (sudden wilt, dark crown lesions, fruit collapse in wet soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage, avoid low spots and overwatering.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; do not replant peppers in that bed the same season.
Powdery mildew (white coating, often late-season)
Prevention: Airflow, avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress spread.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no curative treatment.
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end)
Cause: Calcium transport failure from irregular moisture or root stress.
Fix: Keep moisture even; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (avoid heavy N).
Poor fruit set
Cause: High heat >95°F (35°C), cool nights <60°F (16°C), drought, excess nitrogen, low light.
Fix: Light afternoon shade during heat waves (30–40% cloth), steady irrigation, moderate fertility, good airflow.
Sunscald (heightened risk on pale fruit) (white/tan leathery patches)
Fix: Maintain a leafy canopy—avoid heavy leaf removal; use shade cloth in extreme heat; harvest promptly at ivory stage if canopy is thin.
Edema / water stress (blisters or corky patches on leaves/pods)
Fix: Regularize irrigation; avoid big wet–dry swings.
Cracking/splitting (after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; pick promptly as color advances.
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering and high nitrogen mute sweetness; aim for steady, moderate fertility and irrigation.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, checking leaf undersides and new growth.
Prefer drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space plants well; prune only problem foliage to keep a protective canopy (important for pale Diamond fruit).
Mulch once soil is warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is Diamond Bell?
Heatless—0 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Bred for sweetness and crisp texture.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Plan on 65–80 days from transplant for marketable ivory/pale-green fruit; 75–90 days for full mature color (often yellow to red, depending on strain and heat units). Harvesting some fruit at the pale stage encourages continued set.
Q: How long does germination take?
Typically 7–21 days at 80–85°F (27–29°C) with steady, even moisture in a fine seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Diamond need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained loam, pH 6.0–6.8. Keep the root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C). Avoid soggy media; mulch after soils warm to stabilize moisture.
Q: What spacing should I use?
Set plants 16–18 in (40–45 cm) apart in rows 24–30 in (60–75 cm). This spacing supports airflow around clusters of pale fruit (important to limit sunscald).
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Light airflow or bumblebee activity can boost set slightly.
Q: Can I grow Diamond in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10 gallon pots with excellent drainage and a high-quality, peat- or coir-based mix. A light cage or stake prevents lodging when plants are heavy with fruit.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 8–20 full-size bells per plant, more if you pick some at the ivory stage to keep the plant cycling.
Q: How should I harvest them?
Cut with clean pruners, leaving a short stem. Pick pale (ivory) for crisp, grassy-sweet flavor or wait for full color for maximum sugars and vitamin C. Frequent harvest promotes continued flowering.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate in a breathable bag 1–2 weeks. Great for quick pickles at the pale stage; at full color, roast, peel, and marinate, or dice and freeze in meal-size bags.
Q: Will cooking change the color or flavor?
Yes. Pale skins may mellow toward light gold/olive with heat; full-color fruit deepen in sweetness when roasted or sautéed.
Q: Is it perennial?
Tender perennial in frost-free zones; elsewhere, grow as an annual or overwinter pruned plants indoors at 60–70°F (16–21°C) under bright light.
Q: Why are my pale fruits sunscalding (white, leathery patches)?
Pale skins reflect less UV protection. Keep steady foliage, avoid heavy defoliation, provide 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat, and maintain even irrigation.
Q: Why are fruits not coloring fully?
Cool nights, heavy nitrogen, or shading can slow pigment development. Reduce N after first sets, thin inner leaves lightly for light penetration, and allow time in warm weather.
Q: Can Diamond cross with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum varieties. If saving seed true to type, separate varieties by distance or bag blossoms and hand-pollinate.
Q: Kitchen tips for Diamond’s two stages?
Use ivory-stage bells raw for crunch in salads and quick pickles. Save full-color fruit for roasting, stuffing, and marinated strips—thick walls peel cleanly after a quick char.
The ancestors of Diamond-type bells, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas, where Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica and the Caribbean domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into a spectrum of useful forms. Through patient seedkeeping—saving seed from plants with thicker flesh, gentle sweetness, and predictable ripening—communities shaped peppers that could be roasted on comals, stuffed with maize or beans, and dried for winter kitchens. Peppers moved along Indigenous trade routes by canoe and footpath; seed adapted to highland milpas and coastal gardens alike, embedding chiles in medicine, ceremony, and daily foodways.
When Iberian ships ferried pepper seed across the Atlantic in the sixteenth century, Capsicum met the wood-fired cuisines of the Mediterranean and Balkans—cultures already fluent in roasting, stuffing, oil-preserving, and vinegar-pickling. Market gardeners selected annuum lines that behaved as vegetables, not spices: broad-shouldered, thick-walled, and mild. Over generations, cooks folded these sweet peppers into peperonata, escalivada, piperade, ajvar, and lecsó, while seedkeepers refined blocky, 3–4-lobed fruit with smooth shoulders that held their shape in ovens and jars. The bell pepper became a culinary tool as much as a plant—designed by selection to meet the demands of roasting pans and packing lines.
In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, immigrant gardeners carried that pepper culture back to North America. On the truck farms that ringed northern cities—from New England to the Upper Midwest—growers faced cool nights and short seasons that could stall color. Public breeding programs, land-grant stations, and family seed houses responded with a decades-long push for earliness, uniform blockiness, thick walls, and dependable red ripening. These were practical, grower-led priorities: a bell that colored weeks sooner could fill crates before the first chill and command a better price; a bell with smooth shoulders and consistent lobing stacked cleanly and peeled quickly after roasting.
Out of this pragmatic tradition emerged the class of bells that gardeners now recognize under names like “Diamond”—a shorthand that suggested clarity, uniformity, and dependable quality. While not a single ancient heirloom, “Diamond”-type bells are the distillation of many seasons of selection:
Early maturity to beat cool autumn nights;
Compact, tidy plants that fit high tunnels and intensive spacing;
Thick, juicy walls that roast and peel cleanly;
Even sets under variable weather, reducing misshapen fruit.
Culturally, Diamond bells track the rise of small market farming and home gardens in the post-war period. As backyard plots and community gardens spread, growers wanted a bell that behaved like a professional line yet thrived in modest beds and containers. The Diamond-type fulfilled that role. In kitchens, it stood for reliability: green stage for crunch and volume; red stage for sweetness and nutrition. In immigrant households, it bridged traditions—stuffed like Balkan and Levantine peppers, roasted like Italian and Spanish bells, diced into stews like Mexican guisados—while keeping the sweetness and zero heat that welcomed every palate.
The color story of Diamond bells reflects deeper genetics rooted in Indigenous selection and modern refinement. Green harvest is simply an unripe stage; full red represents the carotenoid-rich endpoint (capsanthin/capsorubin) favored for sweetness and vitamin C. Growers selected lines where the transition to red was uniform and timely—a cultural decision as much as a horticultural one, tied to market timing, school schedules, and the rhythm of canning days. The plant architecture—short internodes, balanced branching—was likewise a cultural artifact, shaped by the needs of truck patches, CSA farms, and home gardeners who wanted abundant, manageable yields without trellising drama.
In today’s seedkeeping landscape, Diamond-type bells continue to earn their place because they solve everyday problems elegantly. They answer short seasons with color, pack out in uniform rows, and perform in both raised beds and patio pots. For farmers, they anchor reliable red-pepper shares; for home cooks, they deliver thick-walled pods that stuff, roast, and freeze beautifully. For seed savers, they offer a steady platform to localize—selecting the earliest red fruits, the smoothest shoulders, the plants that shrug off a cold snap or a heat wave—carrying the line forward as earlier generations did.
To grow a Diamond bell is to participate in a lineage that begins with Indigenous domestication, crosses oceans into Mediterranean roaster culture, and circles back through North American market gardens to the present backyard bed. It is a living emblem of practical seed stewardship: sweetness without heat, fruit built for the oven and the jar, and a plant tuned—over centuries—to the real lives of cooks and growers.
Seed Saving — Diamond Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Goal: Maintain the Diamond white bell identity—blocky 3–4-lobed fruit with ivory/white intermediate color and clean red finish, smooth shoulders, medium-thick walls, and mild sweetness. Preserve plants with sturdy peduncles and good sunscald tolerance for pale fruit.
1) Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Choose exemplars: Tag 8–12 vigorous plants producing uniform ivory fruit that finish red cleanly. Fruit should be blocky with 3–4 distinct lobes, smooth shoulders, and even pale color without green or purple blotching. Select plants that resist sunscald and ripen consistently.
Cull off-types: Exclude conical/elongated fruit, persistent yellow (not ivory) stages, muddy or patchy coloring, thick ribbing, collapsed lobes, weak peduncles, or fruit that fail to finish red. Remove plants with virus symptoms, recurrent BER, or interior browning.
Maintain breadth: Save seed from multiple mothers to retain ivory stage, clean red finish, and plant vigor.
2) Harvesting Seeds
Timing: Let fruit finish red on the plant (beyond the white stage). Hold 5–10 days past full red to mature embryos. If season turns cool, accept ivory fruit trending to blush only if seeds are fully filled and tan.
Collection: Clip with sanitized pruners; keep lots separate/labeled.
3) Cleaning Seeds
Quarter/slit; scrape seed/placenta into labeled sieve/bowl.
Rinse gently; or dry-rub + winnow if fruit are field-dry, followed by a quick rinse.
Remove placental tissue; discard flat/pale/specked seeds.
4) Drying Seeds
Single layer; 70–85°F (21–29°C); 7–14 days; stir daily; avoid >95°F.
Optional silica gel equalization 24–48 h.
Paper-towel test 10–20 seeds at 78–82°F; read 5–10 days; target ≥85%.
Optional priming as above.
Tips
Isolation: C. annuum—isolate 150–300 ft or bag/cage/hand-pollinate.
Pollinators: Tap bagged branches daily.
Records: Track ivory uniformity, sunscald tolerance, red finish timing, wall thickness, off-types (photos + ruler).
Selection cues: Favor plants with smooth ivory bells, minimal green cast, reliable red finish, and mild, sweet flavor.
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Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - Diamond Bell
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Bright, crisp, and early. Sweet Diamond Bell delivers classic bell flavor in a faster, compact package—zero heat (0 SHU)—with clean sweetness at green stage and fuller, fruity notes as it ripens to scarlet. Bred for reliability in shorter seasons and cooler nights, it sets steadily where other bells stall.
Plants are tidy yet vigorous, typically 18–24 inches tall with a branching, upright habit that fits beds or containers. Dark foliage frames clusters of blocky, 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches wide with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit mature from glossy green to bright red, often earlier than standard bells, giving you a long picking window.
In the kitchen, Sweet Diamond is your weeknight workhorse: fresh for salads and snack trays, stuffed (walls hold their shape), and roasted or grilled for sandwiches and pastas. It blisters and peels cleanly for roasted-pepper strips and makes standout sheet-pan sides when quartered. Diced, it freezes well without turning watery.
Selected for dependable performance, Sweet Diamond Bell rewards steady moisture and full sun with uniform fruit set. Harvest green for yield and crunch or let clusters color for maximum sweetness and vitamins. A strong choice for gardeners seeking early bells with market-ready looks and flavor.
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