Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Satin-dark and sweet. Purple Beauty Bell is a true bell pepper bred for rich, glossy deep purple skins and zero heat (0 SHU), delivering classic bell crunch with a mild, garden-fresh sweetness. The color reads almost black in cool light, then glows eggplant-violet in the sun—striking on the plant and on the plate. At full physiological ripeness the fruit can finish to crimson red, but most growers harvest in the purple stage for maximum visual pop and crisp texture.
Plants are naturally compact and tidy, about 18–24 inches tall with a bushy habit that sets heavily even in containers and raised beds. Dark green foliage frames clusters of blocky, 3–4-lobed bells, typically 3–4 inches across with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit mature from green to glossy purple as anthocyanins build in sun-exposed areas; shaded sides may show green—normal for this type and part of its bicolor charm.
On the palate, Purple Beauty offers clean, sweet bell flavor without bitterness. It shines fresh in salads and crudités, where the color holds beautifully, and stays crisp in lunch boxes and snack packs. In the kitchen it roasts, grills, and sautés like a classic bell; the purple exterior softens toward olive or mahogany with heat while the flesh sweetens. Try it stuffed, sliced into fajitas, or quick-pickled for jewel-toned rings.
Selected for reliable production in a range of climates, Purple Beauty Bell rewards gardeners with uniform fruit, tidy plants, and a long picking window. For the deepest purple, grow in full sun with even moisture and steady nutrition; rotate fruit on the plant when harvesting to encourage balanced coloring on the next set. Whether you’re filling market baskets or brightening weeknight meals, this compact bell brings standout color and dependable sweetness—no heat required.
Add content in product metafield custom.planting_care_information.
How To Grow — Purple Beauty Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Site and Light
Full sun, 6 to 8 hours daily.
Strong light helps the purple anthocyanin color hold. Gentle afternoon shade preserves color during extreme heat.
Soil and Fertility
Loose, well drained loam rich in organic matter. Target pH 6.2 to 6.8.
Before the season begins, incorporate finished compost into the bed.
Avoid heavy, fresh nitrogen once plants are growing. Excess leaf growth delays bloom and can mute color.
Spacing and Support
After plants are established in the bed, maintain 18 to 24 inches between plants and 24 to 30 inches between rows.
Use a compact cage or low ring stake. Fruit clusters can bend laterals even on sturdy plants.
Watering and Mulch
Keep moisture even from bloom through harvest. Inconsistent watering toughens skins and invites blossom-end problems.
Deeply water as needed so the entire root zone is moistened, then let the top inch dry slightly before the next irrigation.
Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce swings that affect sweetness and color.
Feeding in Season
Once flowering begins, feed lightly at regular intervals with a balanced fertilizer that supplies potassium and calcium.
Do not overdo nitrogen during fruiting. Focus on potassium for wall thickness and calcium for clean blossom ends.
Temperature and Season Management
Best performance with days 70 to 85°F and nights 60 to 70°F.
Flower drop is common above 95°F or when nights fall below 55°F. Use 30 to 40 percent shade cloth during heat spikes. Row cover helps during cool snaps.
Black mulch or warmed beds help early growth in cool regions.
Pruning, Airflow and Pollination
Lightly thin dense interior leaves to improve airflow. Do not hard prune.
Remove damaged foliage promptly.
Flowers are self fertile. Small blooms from nearby herbs, such as basil and alyssum, increase pollinator activity and can improve set.
Containers
Use a high quality potting mix with added perlite or bark for drainage.
Container plants dry faster, so check moisture frequently in hot weather. Water until slight runoff.
Feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins. A 5 to 7 gallon container works, 10 gallons improves yield and pod size.
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Blossom drop due to heat or drought. Provide temporary shade and keep moisture steady.
Blossom-end problems often link to uneven moisture or low calcium availability. Maintain even watering and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen.
Aphids, thrips, mites can be managed by encouraging beneficials with basil, coriander and alyssum. Spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours.
Sunscald and color fade on purple pods during extreme heat. Light afternoon shade maintains color and texture.
Harvest and Postharvest
Pick at deep glossy purple for crisp texture and raw uses, or at full red for peak sweetness and thicker walls.
Cut with snips and leave a short stem to protect fruiting nodes.
Rest harvests in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration.
Additional Tips - Purple Beauty Bell Pepper (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Harvest when deep glossy purple for crisp, mild flavor with a hint of fruitiness, or allow pods to mature fully to red for the sweetest taste and thicker walls. Early green stage offers grassy crunch, though less common for kitchen use.
Clean cuts: Snip pods with fine-tip pruners to leave a short stem intact. Pulling can damage pedicels and reduce flower nodes.
Batch strategy: For vibrant color mixes, harvest clusters of purple alongside green or red bells. For continuous use, take pods gradually as they color—plants will continue to set more fruit if picked steadily.
Shade cure: Rest harvested pods in a shaded, airy place 2 to 3 days to deepen purple pigment and stabilize sugars before refrigeration.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: At purple, crisp and mild with light fruity and earthy undertones. Fully red stage develops honeyed sweetness and thicker walls.
Nutrient notes: Purple pigment reflects anthocyanins, a class of antioxidants. As pods ripen to red, vitamin C and carotenoids increase, boosting both nutrition and flavor depth.
Kitchen color control: Use purple stage raw to preserve color—cooking tends to dull anthocyanins toward brown. For cooked dishes, let pods ripen red for better color stability and sweetness.
Handling
Mild and safe: Gloves not necessary, though hands should be washed before touching eyes.
Clean transitions: Wash knives and boards with hot soapy water followed by vinegar to prevent aroma transfer before cutting fruit or cheese.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Store unwashed in a paper-lined container in the fridge. Purple pods hold for 7 to 10 days. Red peppers, though sweeter, soften faster and should be eaten within a week.
Roasting and peeling: Blister skins under broiler or flame, steam under cover, then peel. Purple skin will darken, so roasted red is more appealing for presentation.
Pickling: Preserve purple rings in light vinegar brine with onion and garlic. Expect color shift to olive-green but flavor remains bright.
Dehydrating: Slice into rings, dry at 115 to 120°F. Purple skins will darken, but ground flakes add sweet, earthy undertones.
Freezing: Dice or slice, freeze flat on trays, then bag. Ideal for stir-fries, fajitas, and soups.
Kitchen Use
Everyday uses: Slice purple pods raw for salads, slaws, sandwiches, or crudités to showcase unique color.
Cooking: Stuff whole with grains, cheese, or beans. Roast red stage for soups, pasta sauces, and antipasto.
Habit and support: Compact plants with blocky pods. Provide a low cage or stake to keep branches upright under fruit load.
Sun and airflow: 6 to 8 hours of sun needed. Anthocyanin (purple pigment) deepens most strongly with full sun, but extreme heat may fade color.
Temperature: Pollination may stall in extremes >95°F or <55°F at night. Shade cloth can ease stress in heat waves.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5 to 7 gallons for good yield. 10+ gallons improves pod size and uniformity.
Moisture: Keep evenly moist with regular deep watering. Fluctuations can toughen skins and reduce sweetness. Mulch to regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizer rhythm: Provide balanced nutrition early, then shift to potassium- and calcium-rich feeding during fruit set.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Interplant with basil, coriander, dill, and sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies and wasps for pest control. Flowers also invite pollinators for heavier fruit set.
Soil allies: Onions and scallions are good companions. Avoid fennel nearby as it competes for beneficial insect traffic.
Seed Saving
True-to-type selection: Choose pods with classic blocky shape, rich purple at intermediate maturity, and red when fully ripe. Avoid off-types with pointed ends or thin walls.
Isolation: Separate from other C. annuum if purity matters. Bagging blossoms or spacing plants 150 feet apart helps maintain color genetics.
Dry and store: Wash or ferment seeds free of pulp, then air-dry 7 to 10 days until crisp. Store with desiccant in a cool, dark place. Test annually with a 10-seed germination trial.
Common Pests & Problems — Sweet ‘Purple Beauty’ Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curl, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Knock back colonies with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap or neem. Disrupt ant trails (they protect aphids). Plant nectar strips (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to attract lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing in hot/dry spells)
Controls: Raise humidity (mulch, dampen paths), hose leaf undersides, rotate horticultural oil and neem every 5–7 days if pressure persists. In tunnels/greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites early.
Whiteflies (adults flutter when disturbed; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem sprays; maintain weed sanitation around beds.
Thrips (silvery scarring, buckled new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards; remove spent blooms/weedy hosts; apply spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds nearby during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on young leaves)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth rings at stems; trap crops (radish). Keep borders tidy.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; remove plant debris; handpick at dusk where pressure exists.
Caterpillars (fruitworms, armyworms, loopers) (chewed leaves, holes in pods)
Controls: Scout daily; handpick; apply Bt kurstaki to small larvae. Manage grassy margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (oviposition stings, larvae inside pods)
Controls: Timed harvests to beat peak fly activity; promptly remove/destroy infested fruit; baited traps per local extension timing.
Slugs & snails (seedlings, low fruit damaged)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits; beer traps; copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown lesions; defoliation)
Prevention: Certified/treated seed; rotate 3+ years away from Solanaceae; avoid overhead irrigation; sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected foliage; copper products can protect new growth (follow label intervals).
Anthracnose (ripe pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses—watch purple→red ripening fruit closely)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; generous spacing; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit immediately; consider protectant fungicides during warm, wet periods.
Phytophthora blight/root rot (sudden wilt, dark crown lesions, fruit collapse in wet soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage; avoid low spots and over-irrigation.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; do not replant peppers in that bed that season.
Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves, often late season)
Prevention: Airflow; avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no curative treatment.
Color shift with cooking/sun (anthocyanin skins dark purple → olive or brown when heated or sun-stressed)
Note: This is normal chemistry, not disease.
Fix: For plate color, serve raw or add near end of cooking; consider afternoon shade in extreme heat.
Sunscald (white/tan leathery patches on exposed purple fruit—dark fruit heats faster)
Fix: Maintain a healthy canopy; avoid heavy defoliation; use 30–40% shade cloth during heat waves.
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end)
Cause: Calcium delivery failure from irregular moisture/root stress.
Fix: Keep moisture even; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (skip heavy N).
Poor fruit set
Cause: High heat >95°F (35°C), nights <60°F (16°C), drought, excess nitrogen, low light.
Fix: Light afternoon shade during heat spikes; steady irrigation; moderate fertility; good airflow.
Cracking/splitting (after rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; harvest promptly as color advances (purple → red interior).
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering/high N mute sweetness. Aim for steady, moderate fertility and irrigation.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, focusing on leaf undersides and new growth.
Prefer drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space generously; remove only problem leaves to keep a protective canopy over dark fruit.
Mulch once soils warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased/infested fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is Purple Beauty?
Heatless—0 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Bred for sweet flavor and striking purple skin.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Typically 65–80 days from transplant to marketable deep purple stage; 75–90 days to full internal red maturity (flesh turns red under the skin as seeds reach full ripeness).
Q: How long does germination take?
Usually 7–21 days at 80–85°F (27–29°C) with steady, even moisture in a fine seed-starting mix.
Q: Does it need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained loam, pH 6.0–6.8. Keep the root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C). Mulch after soils warm to steady moisture and protect shallow roots.
Q: What spacing should I use?
Set plants 16–18 in (40–45 cm) apart in rows 24–30 in (60–75 cm) to ensure airflow and reduce disease on dense canopies.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Gentle airflow and pollinator visits can marginally improve set.
Q: Can I grow Purple Beauty in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10 gallon pots with excellent drainage and a high-quality potting mix. A small cage or stake helps when plants carry clusters.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 8–20 bells per plant over the season with regular picking and good fertility.
Q: How should I harvest them?
Cut with clean pruners, leaving a short stem. Harvest at glossy purple for crisp texture and mild sweetness, or allow to transition to red for maximum sugars and vitamin C.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate in a breathable bag for 1–2 weeks. Great raw for color contrast, or roast/peel once they’ve blushed toward red. Dice and freeze for soups and sautés.
Q: Will cooking change the color?
Yes. The purple skin (anthocyanins) often mutes to olive with heat. For vivid presentation, use raw or add near the end of cooking; for deepest flavor, roast to red stage first.
Q: Is it perennial?
Short-lived perennial in frost-free zones; otherwise grow as an annual or overwinter indoors after pruning by one-third (bright light, 60–70°F / 16–21°C).
Q: Why are my purple fruits getting sunscald (pale, leathery patches)?
Dark skins can absorb heat. Maintain a healthy canopy, avoid heavy defoliation, water evenly, and consider 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat.
Q: Why aren’t my fruits turning purple?
Anthocyanin development depends on light and temperature. Ensure full sun, avoid excessive nitrogen (which creates lush shade), and give time—cool nights often deepen color.
Q: Can Purple Beauty cross with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum types. If saving seed true to type, separate plantings or bag blossoms and hand-pollinate.
Q: Kitchen tips for Purple Beauty?
Use raw in salads, salsa fresca, and snack trays to showcase the color. For cooking, let pods finish red first, then roast and peel for sweet, vivid strips that keep better color and flavor.
The ancestors of Purple Beauty, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas, where Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica and the Caribbean domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into an extraordinary range of landraces. In milpas and home gardens, seed was kept from plants that met cultural and culinary needs: thicker flesh for roasting on comals, mild flavor for stuffing with maize and beans, and reliable visual cues of ripeness. Peppers were entwined with medicine and ceremony as much as with daily foodways, and seeds moved along river routes, footpaths, and coastal canoes—adapting to altitude, rainfall, and soil as they traveled from community to community. Out of this long stewardship emerged the broad-shouldered, mild fruits that set the trajectory toward what would become bell peppers.
When Iberian ships carried pepper seed across the Atlantic in the sixteenth century, Capsicum entered the fire-and-vinegar kitchens of the Mediterranean and Balkans. Market gardeners near ports and river valleys selected annuum lines that behaved as vegetables rather than spices: blocky bodies, low heat, and thick, juicy walls that could blister, peel, and hold their shape in jars and earthenware pots. Cooks folded them into peperonata, escalivada, piperade, ajvar, and lecsó, reinforcing selection for 3–4 lobes, smooth shoulders, and dependable sweetness at full color. That Old World refinement never severed the plant from its American origins; rather, it extended the Indigenous project of shaping peppers to fit specific kitchens, seasons, and tastes.
The “purple” in Purple Beauty is a later chapter—an intentional exploration of pigment that rides on centuries of earlier work. While red, yellow, and orange bells express carotenoids favored for sweetness and canning, purple bells show anthocyanins on the sunlit skin, laid down where light and cool nights intersect. Early seedkeepers noticed violet blushes on otherwise green fruit; enthusiasts and breeders began saving from plants where the color was richer, more even, and stable under garden conditions. By the late twentieth century, small seed firms popularized stable lines that were lavender to deep eggplant purple at the green stage, yet matured ultimately to red beneath the skin. This was more than a novelty—an education in plant pigments you can eat: raw salads hold the purple, heat turns it olive as anthocyanins fade, and full physiological ripeness still trends red inside.
Immigrant seedkeepers in North America—Italian, Hungarian, Polish, Jewish, Greek, and many others—brought bell culture back to the hemisphere of the pepper’s birth, selecting for earliness and color under northern skies. Purple bells fit naturally into that work. Compact plants with short internodes suited high tunnels and city lots; the striking skin drew customers to farm stands and CSA tables; and the mild, 0 SHU flesh welcomed children and heat-shy eaters to the pepper family. Community gardens adopted Purple Beauty as a teaching tool: a living lesson in domestication (Indigenous), refinement (Mediterranean and Balkan), and pigment biology (anthocyanins vs. carotenoids). Teachers could slice a fruit and show students the red interior developing beneath a purple skin—ripeness layered and visible.
Culturally, Purple Beauty straddles the ornamental and the culinary without sacrificing either. In markets, it anchors displays—dark pods against basil, tomatoes, and corn. In home kitchens it shines raw: salads, slaws, mezze plates, and lunch boxes where the color reads true. When roasted or sautéed, it hands the baton to its carotenoid cousins—reds, yellows, and oranges that keep their hues in heat—reminding cooks that color in peppers is both cuisine and chemistry. Gardeners saving seed continue the cultural work: selecting plants that color richly on the sun side without sunscald, ripen evenly to red when left, and retain thick, juicy walls despite the pigment novelty. Over seasons, a local line emerges—earlier in cool valleys, more sunfast on high, bright sites—exactly how peppers have always become place-specific.
In the modern seed commons, Purple Beauty participates in a wider reclamation: honoring Indigenous origins while embracing the many cultures that shaped the bell. Its presence in a bed is a visible thread through time—Mesoamerican domestication, Mediterranean roast culture, immigrant truck farms, community seed swaps—braided into a single plant. To grow it is to practice that history with your hands: soil, water, light, and the simple act of saving seed from the plants that do best where you are. The purple skin is eye-catching; the deeper story is how people and peppers have grown one another, across oceans and centuries, into food that feeds body, memory, and community.
Saving seeds from Purple Beauty Bell Peppers (Capsicum annuum):
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving:
Choose healthy plants with vigorous growth and abundant peppers.
Avoid plants showing signs of disease or poor growth.
2. Harvesting Seeds:
Timing: Allow the peppers to mature fully on the plant until they turn purple and wrinkled.
Collection: Harvest the ripe peppers and cut them open to remove the seeds.
3. Cleaning Seeds:
Separation: Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pepper flesh.
Inspection: Ensure seeds are clean and free from mold or pests.
4. Drying Seeds:
Place the seeds on a paper towel or screen in a well-ventilated, dry area. Allow them to dry completely for one to two weeks.
5. Storing Seeds:
Containers: Store seeds in labeled paper envelopes or airtight containers.
Storage Conditions: Keep in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Viability: Use seeds within two to three years for best results.
6. Testing Seed Viability:
Test by placing seeds on a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in a warm place and check for germination.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving:
Isolation: Maintain distance between different pepper varieties to prevent cross-pollination.
Pollinators: Encourage pollinators for better seed production.
Record Keeping: Keep detailed records of the process.
Uses and Benefits:
Purple Beauty Bell Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is known for its sweet, crisp fruits and vibrant purple color. It is often used in salads, stir-fries, and as a fresh snack.
Peppers provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supporting overall health. Purple Beauty Bell Peppers are versatile in culinary applications, adding color and flavor to dishes.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - Purple Beauty Bell
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Satin-dark and sweet. Purple Beauty Bell is a true bell pepper bred for rich, glossy deep purple skins and zero heat (0 SHU), delivering classic bell crunch with a mild, garden-fresh sweetness. The color reads almost black in cool light, then glows eggplant-violet in the sun—striking on the plant and on the plate. At full physiological ripeness the fruit can finish to crimson red, but most growers harvest in the purple stage for maximum visual pop and crisp texture.
Plants are naturally compact and tidy, about 18–24 inches tall with a bushy habit that sets heavily even in containers and raised beds. Dark green foliage frames clusters of blocky, 3–4-lobed bells, typically 3–4 inches across with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit mature from green to glossy purple as anthocyanins build in sun-exposed areas; shaded sides may show green—normal for this type and part of its bicolor charm.
On the palate, Purple Beauty offers clean, sweet bell flavor without bitterness. It shines fresh in salads and crudités, where the color holds beautifully, and stays crisp in lunch boxes and snack packs. In the kitchen it roasts, grills, and sautés like a classic bell; the purple exterior softens toward olive or mahogany with heat while the flesh sweetens. Try it stuffed, sliced into fajitas, or quick-pickled for jewel-toned rings.
Selected for reliable production in a range of climates, Purple Beauty Bell rewards gardeners with uniform fruit, tidy plants, and a long picking window. For the deepest purple, grow in full sun with even moisture and steady nutrition; rotate fruit on the plant when harvesting to encourage balanced coloring on the next set. Whether you’re filling market baskets or brightening weeknight meals, this compact bell brings standout color and dependable sweetness—no heat required.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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