Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Reliable, blocky, and sweet. Classic Red Bell is the archetype of a garden bell pepper—thick-walled, juicy, and zero heat (0 SHU)—bred for uniform blocky fruit and dependable sets. Picked green it’s crisp and grassy-sweet; allowed to finish red it develops full bell sweetness with a hint of berry and tomato.
Plants are compact yet vigorous, typically 18–24 inches tall with a tidy, branching habit that performs in beds or large containers. Dark foliage shelters clusters of 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches across, with smooth shoulders and heavy walls that hold their shape when stuffed. Fruit ripen from glossy green to deep red at full maturity; coloring is even on well-lit plants.
In the kitchen, this is your do-everything bell: fresh for salads and snack trays, stuffed with grains or cheese, roasted or grilled for sandwiches and pizzas, and diced for freezing without turning watery. The thick walls blister and peel cleanly for roasted-pepper strips or jars of marinated peppers; red stage gives the sweetest flavor and most vitamin C.
Selected for wide adaptability, Classic Red Bell rewards steady care with long harvests and uniform fruit. Give full sun, even moisture, and balanced feeding for continuous sets; harvest green for maximum yield or let clusters color for peak sweetness and plate appeal. A staple for home gardens and market growers alike—simple, productive, and delicious.
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How To Grow — Classic Red Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Site and Light
Full sun, 6 to 8 hours daily for best color and sweetness
In very hot regions, provide gentle afternoon shade to prevent sunscald and keep skins tender
Soil and Fertility
Loose, well drained loam with high organic matter, pH 6.2 to 6.8
Work in finished compost before the season for steady nutrition
Keep nitrogen moderate during growth so plants flower and color on time
Spacing and Support
Space 18 to 24 inches between plants, 24 to 30 inches between rows
Use a compact cage or low ring stake. Blocky fruit can weigh down laterals as pods size and ripen
Watering and Mulch
Maintain even moisture from first bloom through harvest to prevent leathery skins and blossom end issues
Water deeply so the full root zone is moistened, then allow the top inch to dry slightly before the next irrigation
Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce evaporation
Feeding in Season
Begin light, regular feeding at first flowers with a balanced program that emphasizes potassium and calcium
Avoid heavy nitrogen once fruiting begins. Excess foliage delays bloom and can dilute sweetness
Temperature and Season Management
Best performance with days 70 to 85°F and nights 60 to 70°F
Blossom shed increases above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F
During heat waves use 30 to 40 percent shade cloth and keep moisture steady. In cool snaps, a light row cover protects set and speeds coloring
Black mulch or warmed beds help early vigor in cooler regions
Pruning, Airflow and Pollination
Lightly thin dense interior foliage to improve airflow. Do not hard prune
Remove damaged or diseased leaves promptly
Flowers are self fertile. Interplant small flowering herbs like basil and alyssum to invite pollinators and improve set
Containers
High quality potting mix with added perlite or bark for drainage and air space
Container size of 7 gallons is a strong minimum for full size bells. Larger volumes improve wall thickness and uniform ripening
Check moisture often in hot weather and water until slight runoff. Feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Blossom end problems often trace to uneven moisture or low calcium availability. Keep watering consistent and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen
Sunscald on exposed fruit at canopy edges during heat spikes. Preserve a modest leaf canopy and add brief afternoon shade if needed
Aphids, thrips, mites can be discouraged by nearby blooms that attract hoverflies and parasitic wasps. Spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours
Uneven ripening can follow drought or heat stress. Keep moisture even and avoid overloading plants with late flushes by harvesting promptly
Harvest and Postharvest
Pick at glossy green for firm texture and classic stuffed pepper use, or at full red for peak sweetness and thicker walls
Cut with snips and leave a short stem to protect fruiting nodes
Rest harvested pods in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration
Additional Tips — Classic Red Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Harvest at glossy green for mild grassy crunch and thick walls perfect for stuffing, or allow pods to mature to deep red for peak sweetness and fruity richness. Green is preferred for firmer texture, while red delivers fuller sugars and nutritional value.
Clean cuts: Use fine-tip pruners to clip pods with a short stem intact. Pulling can stress the pedicel and reduce future flower set.
Batch strategy: For large batches of roasted peppers or stuffed recipes, schedule one or two concentrated harvests at red. For daily salads and sandwiches, take pods gradually as they color to encourage continuous set.
Shade cure: After picking, rest pods in a shaded airy place 2 to 3 days to stabilize sugars and deepen color before refrigeration or roasting.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: At green stage, crisp and slightly grassy with light bitterness. At red stage, honey-sweet, fruity, and juicy with minimal bitterness.
Nutrient notes: Red fruit concentrate vitamin C, beta-carotene, and other carotenoids, increasing both sweetness and antioxidant value compared to green.
Kitchen flavor control: Leave ribs and seeds intact when roasting to maximize sweetness and juice. Remove them for tighter texture in fresh dishes or when dicing into salads.
Handling
Safe and mild: Gloves not necessary. Wash hands after handling before touching eyes to prevent minor irritation.
Clean transitions: Rinse knives and boards with hot soapy water, then vinegar rinse to remove oils before cutting fruit or cheese.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Store unwashed in a paper-lined container with lid slightly ajar. Green pods hold 7–10 days; red pods soften more quickly, best used within a week.
Roasting and peeling: Broil or grill until skins blister, then steam under a bowl 10 minutes, peel, and marinate with olive oil, garlic, and parsley.
Pickling: Slice into rings, brine with garlic, mustard seed, and sugar for bright-tasting preserves.
Relishes and jam: Simmer fine-diced red peppers with onion, vinegar, and sugar for a spread that pairs with cheese and meats.
Dehydrating: Slice into strips, dry at 115–120°F, and store whole. Grind into powder for a sweet pepper seasoning.
Freezing: Slice, freeze flat on trays, then bag. Excellent for soups, pasta, stir-fries, and omelets.
Kitchen Use
Classic uses: Raw for salads, sandwiches, wraps, and vegetable trays. Stuffed whole with rice, grains, cheese, or meats.
Cooking: Red pepper soups, shakshuka, roasted pepper sauces, pasta primavera, pizzas, and fajitas.
Flavor pairings: Basil, oregano, parsley, thyme, lemon, balsamic, olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, feta, sausage, chicken, and white fish.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Habit and support: Stocky plants with blocky fruit. Support with cages or stakes to prevent branches from sagging under fruit weight.
Sun and airflow: Provide 6–8 hours of sun with generous spacing for airflow. Light tip-pinching at 8–10 inches encourages branching and heavier fruiting.
Set reliability: Flower set can drop at extremes over 95°F or under 55°F. Shade cloth and consistent watering improve retention in heat spells.
Nutrient balance: Balanced nutrition is key—moderate nitrogen, with potassium and calcium emphasized at fruit set, ensures thick walls and clean tips.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5–7 gallons minimum; larger pots improve pod size and sweetness.
Moisture: Keep evenly moist with deep regular watering. Erratic cycles toughen skins and reduce sweetness. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizer rhythm: Feed every 10–14 days in containers once flowering begins. In-ground plants benefit from midseason compost side-dress and potassium supplementation.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Plant with basil, coriander, dill, and alyssum to attract hoverflies, parasitic wasps, and bees for pest control and pollination.
Row partners: Onions and scallions fit well nearby. Avoid fennel, which competes for space and pollinators.
Seed Saving
True-to-type pods: Select blocky, uniform red bells with thick, sweet walls and consistent shape. Avoid pointed or oddly shaped off-types.
Isolation: Separate from other C. annuum by at least 150 feet or bag flower clusters for purity.
Dry and store: Ferment or wash seeds, then air-dry 7–10 days until brittle. Store in airtight containers with desiccant in a cool, dark place. Test germination yearly with a 10-seed trial.
Common Pests & Problems — ‘Classic Red Bell’ (Capsicum annuum)
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Blast colonies with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap or neem at 5–7 day intervals. Break ant trails (they protect aphids). Plant nectar strips (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to boost lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing in hot/dry spells—dense bell canopies hide outbreaks)
Controls: Raise humidity (mulch, dampen paths); thoroughly hose leaf undersides; rotate horticultural oil and neem. Under cover, release Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites early.
Whiteflies (adults flutter on disturbance; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem; keep weeds down around beds.
Thrips (silvery scarring, twisted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards; remove spent blooms/weedy hosts; spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on tender spring foliage)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth rings; radish trap crops. Maintain tidy borders.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; clear plant debris; hand-pick at dusk where pressure exists.
Caterpillars (fruitworms/armyworms/loopers) (chewed leaves, entry holes in pods—larvae hide inside thick bells)
Controls: Scout daily; hand-pick; apply Bt kurstaki to small larvae. Mow/grub grassy margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (oviposition stings; larvae inside pods)
Controls: Harvest frequently to outrun peak fly activity; promptly remove/destroy infested fruit; use baited traps per local extension timing.
Pepper weevil / fruit borers (warm regions/greenhouses) (premature fruit drop; internal tunneling)
Controls: Tight sanitation; destroy culls; frequent harvest; consult extension for pheromone trap timing and thresholds.
Slugs & snails (seedlings, low fruit)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits; beer traps; copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown lesions; defoliation, blemished bells)
Prevention: Certified/treated seed; rotate 3+ years away from Solanaceae; avoid overhead irrigation; sanitize stakes/tools.
Management: Remove infected foliage; copper products can protect new growth (follow labels/PHIs).
Anthracnose (ripe pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses—watch as green → red)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; wide spacing; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit immediately; consider protectant fungicides during warm, wet runs.
Phytophthora blight / root rot (sudden wilt after rain; dark crown lesions; fruit collapse in saturated soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage; avoid low spots/over-irrigation.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; avoid replanting peppers in that site the same season.
Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves late season/under cover)
Prevention: Airflow; moderate nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no curative treatment in-plant.
Mosaic viruses (CMV/TSWV/TEV) (mottling, puckering, stunting; distorted fruit)
Prevention: Control thrips/aphids; rogue symptomatic plants; sanitize hands/tools; avoid handling tobacco before field work.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end—common on blocky bells)
Cause: Calcium delivery failure from irregular moisture/root stress.
Fix: Keep moisture even; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (skip heavy N).
Poor fruit set / misshapen lobes
Cause: Heat >95°F (35°C), cool nights <60°F (16°C), drought, excess N, low light.
Fix: Provide 30–40% shade cloth during heat spikes; steady irrigation; moderate fertility; ensure airflow and pollinator access.
Sunscald (white/tan leathery patches on exposed sides of large bells)
Fix: Maintain a leafy canopy; avoid heavy defoliation; harvest promptly as color advances; deploy temporary shade in extreme heat.
Edema / water stress (blisters/corky patches on leaves/pods)
Fix: Regularize irrigation; avoid abrupt wet–dry swings.
Cracking/splitting (after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; pick at full green or early blush if storms loom.
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering and high N mute sweetness; steady, moderate fertility/irrigation improve sugars and bell flavor.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, especially inside the dense canopy.
Prefer drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space plants well; prune only problem foliage to preserve a protective leaf cover over fruit.
Mulch after soils warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased/infested fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is the Classic Red Bell?
0 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). It’s a true sweet bell—no heat.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
About 70–80 days from transplant to full-size green, and 85–95 days to deep red in typical summer conditions. Cooler nights can add a week or two.
Q: How long does germination take?
Usually 7–14 days at 80–88°F (27–31°C) on a heat mat. Allow up to 21 days for slower lots; keep the medium evenly moist (not soggy).
Q: What soil and pH does it prefer?
Fertile, well-drained soil with pH 6.2–6.8. Maintain a warm root zone (70–85°F / 21–29°C) and avoid waterlogging.
Q: What spacing should I use?
16–20 in (40–50 cm) between plants; 24–30 in (60–75 cm) between rows. Good airflow reduces leaf disease and sunscald.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Light airflow or a gentle shake helps fruit set.
Q: Can I grow Classic Red Bell in containers?
Yes. Use a 5–10 gal (19–38 L) pot with excellent drainage. A small cage or stake prevents branches from bending under fruit load.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 8–20+ full-size bells per plant in a long, warm season—more with steady moisture, feeding, and full sun.
Q: When and how should I harvest?
Snip with pruners to avoid tearing stems. Harvest green for maximum yield and crunch, or wait for uniform red for peak sweetness and nutrition.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate fresh peppers unwashed in a perforated bag (up to a week). Roast and peel for jars, freeze diced (no blanching needed), or quick-pickle rings for sandwiches and salads.
Q: Will cooking change the flavor?
Yes—heat concentrates sugars. Roasting/grilling brings out sweetness; sautéing keeps texture crisp if done quickly.
Q: Is it perennial?
A tender perennial in frost-free zones. In cold climates, grow as an annual or overwinter indoors (bright light, 60–70°F / 16–21°C) after pruning by one-third.
Q: Why is my plant flowering but not setting fruit?
Common causes: hot days >95°F (35°C), cool nights <60°F (16°C), drought, or excess nitrogen. Provide light shade during heat waves, steady irrigation, and moderate feeding.
Q: My fruits have black, sunken spots on the blossom end—what is it?
Blossom end rot (BER) from inconsistent moisture and disrupted calcium uptake. Fix by regular watering, mulching, and balanced fertilization—avoid root damage.
Q: How do I prevent sunscald on red fruit?
Maintain a healthy leaf canopy; don’t over-thin. Use 20–30% shade cloth during extreme heat and keep watering consistent.
Q: Can it cross with other peppers if I’m saving seed?
Yes, with other C. annuum types (bells, jalapeños, cayennes). Isolate by distance, timing, or bags to keep seed true.
Q: Any tips for maximizing sweetness and color?
Full sun, even moisture, balanced feeding (avoid heavy N late), and reflective mulch or good light exposure help pods finish to a rich, uniform red.
The ancestors of the Classic Red Bell, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas. Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica and the Caribbean domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into a remarkable spectrum of landraces through centuries of careful seedkeeping. In milpas and home gardens, they selected for thicker flesh that could be roasted on comals, mild flavor suitable for stuffing with maize and beans, and clear visual cues of ripeness. Seeds traveled along canoe routes and footpaths, adapting to highland terraces and coastal lowlands; peppers were food, medicine, and symbol. From this long Indigenous stewardship emerged broad-shouldered, low-heat fruits—ancestral forms of the modern bell—that behaved not as spice but as substantial vegetable.
When Iberian ships carried pepper seed across the Atlantic in the sixteenth century, Capsicum entered the fire-and-vinegar kitchens of the Mediterranean and Balkans. Market gardeners stabilized blocky, thick-walled, mild annuum ideal for roasting, peeling, oil-preserving, and pickling. Cooks folded them into peperonata, escalivada, piperade, ajvar, and lecsó, reinforcing selection for 3–4 lobes, smooth shoulders, and sweetness at full color. What we now recognize as the “bell” was thus a continuity of Indigenous domestication refined by Old World technique—designed for ovens, jars, and market crates rather than mortars and spice mills.
The red endpoint became culturally decisive. Full ripeness concentrates carotenoids (capsanthin/capsorubin), signaling peak sweetness and vitamin C. Southern European canneries and household pantries prized fully red bells for roasting and preserving; market stalls gleamed with crimson fruits in late summer. Immigrant gardeners later carried this color preference back to North America, where cool nights and short seasons created new pressures: plants needed to set fruit under 50s°F nights, color reliably before frost, and still carry thick, meaty walls that peel cleanly after a quick char.
From the late nineteenth century through the mid–twentieth, a distinctly North American bell culture crystallized. Truck farms around cities and land-grant experiment stations refined lines for uniform blockiness, earliness, strong pedicels, and smooth shoulders that packed without bruising. Seed houses popularized names that promised reliability—“Wonder,” “World,” “Perfection,” “Beauty.” Among them, a family of “California Wonder” types set a standard for blocky form and consistent red finish; from that lineage and its contemporaries, the generic market category of “classic red bell” emerged in catalogs and produce halls alike: a bell that does everything a bell should do, with no surprises.
Culturally, the Classic Red Bell became the democratic pepper—the one everyone recognized and most kitchens wanted. In immigrant neighborhoods it bridged traditions: roasted, skinned, and marinated like in Italy and Spain; sautéed with onions for Eastern European stews; diced into guisados and sofritos in Mexican, Puerto Rican, and Dominican kitchens; layered raw into American picnic salads and lunchbox strips. Church basements and Grange halls centered community canning days around crates of red bells; jars of roasted strips joined tomatoes and pickles on cellar shelves. In diners and delis, the red bell’s sweetness, 0 SHU, and dependable crunch made it the default fresh pepper on sandwiches and omelets.
Behind that everyday ubiquity lies a continuing act of seed stewardship. Growers and small seed firms kept selecting for traits that make a red bell “classic” in practice rather than name:
Earliness & uniform color: blush to full red without green shoulders or patchy ripening.
Thick, juicy walls that blister and peel cleanly for roasted strips and jars.
Smooth, square shoulders & consistent lobing for pack-out and even roasting.
Compact, sturdy plants that hold clusters without lodging and resist sunscald on exposed fruit.
Cool-night fruit set in northern latitudes; heat tolerance where summers sizzle.
As high tunnels spread across small farms, the Classic Red Bell adapted again. Tunnel culture rewarded short internodes, balanced branching, and concentrated early sets, giving growers red color weeks before field crops—an economic and culinary win. CSA members learned to expect waves of red bells from midsummer to frost; chefs built menus around sheet pans of blistered peppers; home cooks froze diced red bells for winter soups, preserving the sweetness that once only pickling could hold.
The classic red also became a teaching pepper—a living syllabus of pepper history. In school gardens, it anchors lessons that arc from Indigenous domestication to Mediterranean roasting culture to modern market farming. Slice one open and you can read its past: thick walls shaped by cooks and seedkeepers; a blocky body made for ovens and boxes; seeds that, if saved thoughtfully, will lean toward your climate. Gardeners who save seed from the earliest fully red, best-formed fruits keep the line moving toward their place—cool valleys, lake breezes, urban rooftops—exactly how bells have always become local.
Today, the Classic Red Bell endures because it answers ordinary needs beautifully. It is the pepper that just works: raw, it’s crisp and sweet; roasted, it peels like a dream; stuffed, it holds shape; canned, it keeps color and flavor. To grow it is to join a centuries-long conversation between people and peppers—Indigenous seedkeepers who made a vegetable of a wild chile, Old World cooks who refined form and use, and contemporary growers who tune it to tunnels, markets, and weeknight kitchens. Every red bell in the basket is a small, bright archive of that exchange—simple in the hand, profound in the story it carries.
Seed Saving — Classic Red Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Goal: Maintain a blocky, square red bell identity—3–4 well-formed lobes, thick walls (≥5–7 mm), green → full bright red progression, juicy sweetness, and sturdy, productive plants (California Wonder–type profile).
1) Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Choose exemplars: Tag 8–12 vigorous, disease-free plants with upright frames and strong peduncles. Select fruit that are uniformly blocky with four clean lobes preferred, smooth shoulders, and thick walls. Plants should color evenly to bright red without green shoulders and with low BER incidence.
Cull off-types: Remove plants with pointed/conical fruit, elongated shapes, thin walls, misshapen lobes, persistent green shoulders, dull brick/muddy red finish, late/uneven ripening, weak peduncles, or bitter/grassy flavor at maturity. Discard plants with virus mosaics or recurrent sunscald cracking.
Maintain breadth: Save seed from multiple mother plants to preserve blocky shape, wall thickness, sweetness, and vigor.
2) Harvesting Seeds
Timing: Allow bells to reach full bright red on the plant; hold 5–10 days past full color to maximize seed maturity. In late season, accept red-turning fruit only if seeds are fully filled and tan.
Collection: Clip with sanitized pruners. Keep each mother’s lot separate and labeled.
3) Cleaning Seeds
Quarter/slit; scrape seed/placenta into labeled sieve/bowl.
Rinse gently until threads release and water clears; or dry-rub + winnow first if fruit are field-dry.
Remove pith; cull flat/pale/specked seeds or any with off odors.
4) Drying Seeds
Single layer; 70–85°F (21–29°C); 7–14 days; stir daily; avoid >95°F.
Optional moisture equalization with silica gel 24–48 h.
5) Storing Seeds
Envelope → airtight jar/foil pouch + silica gel; cool/dark/dry (fridge 35–45°F).
Viability 3–5 years refrigerated; 5–8+ ultradry & frozen. Warm to room temp before opening.
6) Testing Seed Viability
Paper-towel test 10–20 seeds at 78–82°F; read 5–10 days.
Target ≥85% germination. Optional 0.5–1% H₂O₂ or kelp soak 30–60 min for older seed.
Tips
Isolation: C. annuum—isolate 150–300 ft from other annuum peppers (esp. hot types) or bag/cage/hand-pollinate.
Pollinators: Encourage beneficials; tap bagged blooms daily.
Records: Track plant IDs, lobe count, wall thickness, time to red, BER incidence, and off-types (photos + ruler).
Selection cues: Favor square, thick-walled bells that color evenly, taste sweet at red, resist sunscald, and hold firmness at full maturity.
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Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - Classic Red Bell
$200 USD
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Reliable, blocky, and sweet. Classic Red Bell is the archetype of a garden bell pepper—thick-walled, juicy, and zero heat (0 SHU)—bred for uniform blocky fruit and dependable sets. Picked green it’s crisp and grassy-sweet; allowed to finish red it develops full bell sweetness with a hint of berry and tomato.
Plants are compact yet vigorous, typically 18–24 inches tall with a tidy, branching habit that performs in beds or large containers. Dark foliage shelters clusters of 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches across, with smooth shoulders and heavy walls that hold their shape when stuffed. Fruit ripen from glossy green to deep red at full maturity; coloring is even on well-lit plants.
In the kitchen, this is your do-everything bell: fresh for salads and snack trays, stuffed with grains or cheese, roasted or grilled for sandwiches and pizzas, and diced for freezing without turning watery. The thick walls blister and peel cleanly for roasted-pepper strips or jars of marinated peppers; red stage gives the sweetest flavor and most vitamin C.
Selected for wide adaptability, Classic Red Bell rewards steady care with long harvests and uniform fruit. Give full sun, even moisture, and balanced feeding for continuous sets; harvest green for maximum yield or let clusters color for peak sweetness and plate appeal. A staple for home gardens and market growers alike—simple, productive, and delicious.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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