Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Pastel charm with classic crunch. Lilac Bell ripens through a unique lavender-lilac stage before maturing red—zero heat (0 SHU)—bringing garden sweetness and show-stopping color to salads and market baskets. Harvest at lilac for crisp, mild sweetness, or wait for full red to deepen the flavor.
Plants are compact and productive, typically 18–24 inches tall with a tidy, branching habit for beds or containers. Glossy foliage frames blocky, 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches across, with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit move from green to pale lavender (anthocyanins on sun-facing sides) and finally rich red; bicolor blushes are common and desirable.
In the kitchen, Lilac Bell shines fresh—its pastel flesh stays crisp in salads, snack trays, and slaws. It roasts and grills like any bell (the lilac exterior softens toward olive/mahogany with heat), and stuffed halves hold their shape beautifully. Dice and freeze red-stage fruit for sauces and soups; quick-pickle rings preserve the unusual color for eye-catching jars.
Selected for reliable set and ornamental appeal, Lilac Bell rewards steady moisture and full sun with long, colorful harvests. Provide balanced feeding, avoid heavy defoliation (to limit sunscald on pale skins), and harvest frequently to keep plants pushing new blossoms. A crowd-pleaser that blends flavor and flair—without the heat.
Their intergrity and care show through their products and seeds. They care about the people and are for the people. Not only is their shipping fast, the seeds germination are fast too. Quality heirloom seeds with a top notch company ♥️
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How To Grow — Lilac Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Site and Light
Full sun, 6 to 8 hours daily
Anthocyanin pigments that create the lilac color hold best with strong light, but in very hot climates provide gentle afternoon shade to prevent fade and sunscald
Soil and Fertility
Loose, well drained loam rich in organic matter, pH 6.2 to 6.8
Work in finished compost before the season for steady nutrition
Avoid heavy nitrogen once plants are established since excess leaf growth delays bloom and can mute color
Spacing and Support
Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, with 24 to 30 inches between rows
Use a compact cage or low ring stake to keep branches upright under fruit load
Watering and Mulch
Maintain even moisture from first bloom through harvest to prevent leathery skins and blossom end problems
Water deeply to moisten the full root zone, then allow the top inch to dry slightly before the next irrigation
Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce evaporation
Feeding in Season
Begin light, regular feeding once flowers appear, focusing on potassium and calcium to support wall strength and clean blossom ends
Keep nitrogen moderate during fruiting. A balanced feed every 2 to 3 weeks in beds is usually sufficient
Temperature and Season Management
Best performance with days 70 to 85°F and nights 60 to 70°F
Blossom shed is common above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F
During heat waves, provide 30 to 40 percent shade cloth and maintain steady moisture. In cool snaps, a light row cover helps protect set and color
Pruning, Airflow and Pollination
Lightly thin dense interior foliage to improve airflow. Do not hard prune
Remove damaged or diseased leaves promptly
Flowers are self fertile. Interplant with small flowering herbs like basil and alyssum to invite pollinators and improve set
Containers
Use a high quality potting mix with added perlite or bark for drainage and air space
Container size of 5 to 7 gallons works well. Ten gallons improves pod size and uniformity
Check moisture often in hot weather and water until slight runoff. Feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Color fade or bronzing on lilac pods during extreme heat. Provide light afternoon shade to preserve color and texture
Blossom end problems often trace to uneven moisture or low calcium availability. Keep watering consistent and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen
Aphids, thrips, mites can be discouraged by nearby blooms that attract hoverflies and parasitic wasps. Spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours
Sunscald on exposed fruit at canopy edges. Maintain foliage cover and provide temporary shade during heat spikes
Harvest and Postharvest
Pick at the lilac stage for crisp texture and attractive raw uses, or wait for full red for peak sweetness and thicker walls
Cut with snips and leave a short stem to protect fruiting nodes
Rest harvested pods in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration
Additional Tips - Lilac Bell Pepper (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Pick at glossy lilac-purple for crisp texture and mild flavor with subtle floral notes, or allow pods to ripen fully to red for maximum sweetness and thicker walls. Green-to-lilac intermediate stages have grassy brightness and extra crunch.
Clean cuts: Snip pods with fine-tip pruners to keep a short stem attached. Pulling can damage pedicels, stressing the plant and reducing future bloom.
Batch strategy: For market baskets or rainbow dishes, plan one or two concentrated lilac harvests for visual appeal. For steady kitchen use, harvest continuously as pods shift from green to lilac to red.
Shade cure: Rest harvested pods in a shaded, airy space 2 to 4 days to stabilize pigments and sugars before refrigeration or processing.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: At lilac stage, mild and slightly fruity with hints of earthiness. At red stage, pods develop honeyed sweetness and fuller bell pepper aroma.
Nutrient notes: Purple pigment is rich in anthocyanins, potent antioxidants. As pods transition to red, vitamin C and carotenoids increase significantly, boosting sweetness and nutritional value.
Kitchen color control: Purple skin can dull during cooking, so use lilac pods raw to showcase color. For cooked dishes, use red stage for stable sweetness and vibrant flavor.
Handling
Mild and safe: Gloves not needed. Wash hands before touching eyes to prevent mild irritation from oils.
Clean transitions: Hot soapy wash followed by vinegar splash removes oils and aroma from knives and boards before moving to fruit or cheese.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Store unwashed in a paper-lined container in the refrigerator. Lilac pods hold 7 to 10 days, while red pods, though sweeter, soften faster and should be used within a week.
Roasting: For deepest flavor, roast at full red stage. Lilac skins darken under heat and lose brightness but retain mild sweetness.
Pickling: Preserve sliced lilac or red pods in vinegar brine with onion and garlic. Lilac may shift to olive tone in brine, though flavor stays bright.
Dehydrating: Slice into rings and dry at 115 to 120°F. Purple pigments darken, but dried flakes or powders add gentle sweetness and earthy undertones.
Freezing: Dice or slice, freeze flat on a tray, then bag. Excellent for stir-fries, fajitas, and soups.
Kitchen Use
Everyday uses: Raw lilac slices in salads, wraps, slaws, and crudités to display unique color.
Cooking: Stuff with grains or cheese, roast red pods for soups and sauces, use diced in stir-fries and frittatas.
Habit and support: Compact plants with blocky fruits. Use a low cage or short stakes to support branches under heavy sets.
Sun and airflow: 6 to 8 hours of sun strengthens anthocyanin expression in purple skins. Provide spacing to allow quick drying and airflow.
Temperature: High heat (>95°F) may fade lilac pigmentation to brownish. Cooler steady conditions maintain clean purple. Protect during extreme heat with 30 to 40 percent shade cloth.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5 to 7 gallons for consistent yield; 10+ gallons encourages thicker walls and larger pods.
Moisture: Keep soil evenly moist with deep, regular watering. Wide dry-to-soak swings toughen skins, reduce sweetness, and stress pigment development. Mulch to stabilize soil temperature.
Fertilizer rhythm: Balanced nutrition early, shifting to potassium and calcium at fruit set to boost wall strength and avoid blossom-end rot.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Basil, coriander, dill, and sweet alyssum attract hoverflies and parasitic wasps that control aphids and thrips. Small blooms also invite bees for heavier fruit set.
Soil partners: Onions and scallions fit neatly at row edges. Avoid fennel, which competes for beneficial insects.
Seed Saving
True-to-type selection: Select pods with blocky, uniform shape, clean lilac at intermediate maturity, and full red sweetness at final ripeness. Avoid off-type pointed or elongated pods.
Isolation: Separate from other C. annuum peppers by 150 feet minimum or bag blossoms for purity.
Dry and store: Wash or ferment seeds free of pulp, then air-dry 7 to 10 days until crisp. Bottle with desiccant and store in a cool, dark place. Test germination annually to monitor viability.
Common Pests & Problems — Sweet ‘Lilac’ Bell (Capsicum annuum)
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Knock colonies back with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap or neem at 5–7 day intervals. Disrupt ant trails (they protect aphids). Plant nectar strips (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to support lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing during hot/dry spells)
Controls: Raise humidity (mulch, dampen paths), hose leaf undersides, rotate horticultural oil and neem. In tunnels/greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites early.
Whiteflies (adults flutter when disturbed; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem; weed sanitation around beds.
Thrips (silvery scarring, twisted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow sticky cards; remove spent blooms and weedy hosts; apply spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds nearby during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on young leaves)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth bands at stems; trap crops (radish). Keep borders tidy.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; clear plant debris; handpick at dusk in known hotspots.
Caterpillars (fruitworms/armyworms/loopers) (chewed leaves, entry holes in pods)
Controls: Scout daily; handpick; apply Bt kurstaki to small larvae. Manage grassy margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (oviposition stings, larvae inside pods)
Controls: Time harvests to beat peak fly activity; promptly remove and destroy infested fruit; deploy baited traps per local extension timing.
Pepper weevil / fruit borers (warm regions) (premature fruit drop; internal tunneling)
Controls: Tight sanitation; frequent harvest; destroy culls; consult extension for pheromone trap deployment.
Slugs & snails (seedlings and low fruit)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits; beer traps; copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown lesions; defoliation)
Prevention: Certified/treated seed; rotate 3+ years away from Solanaceae; avoid overhead irrigation; sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected foliage; copper products can protect new growth (follow labels/intervals).
Anthracnose (ripe pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses—watch lilac → cream → red ripening fruit)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; generous spacing; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit immediately; consider protectant fungicides in warm, wet stretches.
Phytophthora blight / root rot (sudden wilt, dark crown lesions, fruit collapse in wet soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage; avoid low spots and over-irrigation.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; do not replant peppers in that bed that season.
Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves, often late season)
Prevention: Airflow; avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress spread.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no curative treatment.
Color instability (anthocyanins) (lilac/purple skins can shift to olive or brown when cooked or sun-stressed)
Note: Normal pigment chemistry, not disease.
Fix: For plate color, serve raw or add near end of cooking; provide light afternoon shade during extreme heat.
Sunscald (white/tan leathery patches on exposed light-colored fruit)
Fix: Maintain a leafy canopy; avoid heavy defoliation; use 30–40% shade cloth in heat waves.
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end)
Cause: Calcium delivery failure from irregular moisture/root stress.
Fix: Keep moisture even; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (skip heavy N).
Poor fruit set
Cause: High heat >95°F (35°C), nights <60°F (16°C), drought, excess N, low light.
Fix: Light afternoon shade during heat spikes; steady irrigation; moderate fertility; good airflow.
Edema / water stress (blisters/corky patches on leaves/pods)
Fix: Regularize irrigation; avoid abrupt wet–dry cycles.
Cracking/splitting (after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; harvest promptly as color advances.
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering and high N mute sweetness; steady, moderate fertility and irrigation improve sugars and crunch.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, focusing on leaf undersides and newest growth.
Prefer drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space plants well; remove only problem foliage to keep a protective canopy over light-colored fruit.
Mulch once soils warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased/infested fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is Lilac Bell?
Heatless—0 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Bred for sweet flavor and its distinctive lilac-to-purple skin.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Generally 65–80 days from transplant to glossy lilac/purple stage; allow 75–90 days for full internal red maturity (highest sugars and vitamin C).
Q: How long does germination take?
Typically 7–21 days at 80–85°F (27–29°C) with evenly moist, fine seed-starting mix. Cooler media slow and reduce germination.
Q: Does it need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained loam, pH 6.0–6.8. Keep the root zone warm (70–85°F / 21–29°C) and avoid waterlogging. Mulch after soils warm to stabilize moisture.
Q: What spacing should I use?
Set plants 16–18 in (40–45 cm) apart in rows 24–30 in (60–75 cm) to promote airflow and reduce disease on dense canopies.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Air movement and pollinators can modestly improve fruit set.
Q: Can I grow Lilac Bell in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10 gallon pots with excellent drainage; a small cage or stake supports clusters.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 8–20 bells per plant across the season with regular harvests and balanced feeding.
Q: How should I harvest them?
Cut with clean pruners, leaving a short stem. Pick at glossy lilac for crisp texture and mild sweetness, or allow to blush and finish red for maximum sugars.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate in a breathable bag for 1–2 weeks. Use lilac-stage bells raw for color contrast; let pods turn red before roasting/peeling for marinated strips. Dice and freeze for soups and sautés.
Q: Will cooking change the color?
Yes. Anthocyanin-rich skins often mute to olive with heat. For vivid presentation, serve raw or add near the end of cooking; for deepest roasted flavor, allow fruit to finish red first.
Q: Is it perennial?
Short-lived perennial in frost-free zones; elsewhere, grow as an annual or overwinter pruned plants indoors (bright light, 60–70°F / 16–21°C).
Q: Why aren’t fruits turning lilac/purple?
Color development depends on light and temperature. Ensure full sun, avoid overly lush nitrogen that shades fruit, and allow time—cool nights often deepen pigmentation.
Q: Why is my plant flowering but not setting fruit?
Night temps below 60°F (16°C), highs above 95°F (35°C), drought, or excess nitrogen can reduce set. Keep moisture steady, feed moderately, and use light shade during heat waves.
Q: Can Lilac Bell cross with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum. If saving seed true to type, separate varieties or bag blossoms and hand-pollinate.
Q: Kitchen tips for Lilac Bell?
Leverage the raw lilac stage for salads, crudités, and fresh salsas; use the red stage for roasting, stuffing, and marinated strips—thick walls peel cleanly after a quick char.
The ancestors of Lilac Bell, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas, where Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica and the Caribbean domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into a mosaic of landraces for food, healing, ceremony, and trade. In milpas and kitchen gardens, seed was saved from plants that offered thicker flesh for roasting on comals, mild flavor for stuffing with maize and beans, and reliable visual cues of ripeness. Seed traveled by canoe and footpath, adapting to highland terraces and coastal soils; the bell’s broad shoulders and gentle sweetness are the living inheritance of those centuries of Indigenous selection.
When Iberian ships ferried pepper seed across the Atlantic in the sixteenth century, Capsicum entered fire-forward cuisines around the Mediterranean and the Balkans—cultures fluent in roasting, stuffing, and preserving. Market gardeners stabilized thick-walled, mild annuum forms that would blister, peel, and hold shape in jars and clay pots. Cooks folded them into peperonata, escalivada, ajvar, lecsó, and piperade, reinforcing selection for 3–4 lobes, smooth shoulders, and dependable sweetness at full color. The bell pepper we recognize today is thus a continuation of Indigenous domestication, refined by Old World technique and then carried back to North America by migrant seedkeepers who adapted it to cooler nights and shorter seasons.
“Lilac” marks a later, intentional turn toward pigment—rooted in curiosity and the craft of selection. While classic bells express carotenoids (reds, yellows, oranges) prized for sweetness and canning, lilac/purple bells display anthocyanins laid down in the skin where light and cool temperatures meet. Early seedkeepers noticed violet blushes on otherwise green fruit; over years, they saved seed from plants with richer, more uniform lavender skins, good sunfastness on exposed shoulders, and the ability to mature internally to red beneath the lilac shell. By the late twentieth century, small independent seed companies helped stabilize and share these lines, and “Lilac Bell” became the gardener’s shorthand for a sweet bell that begins in pastel lavender and finishes red.
Culturally, Lilac Bell sits at the crossroads of ornament and utility. Market growers learned that a single basket of lilac fruit could stop customers in their tracks—an immediate conversation starter that moved the entire display. Community gardens and school plots embraced it as a living lesson in plant pigments: anthocyanins tint the skin at the “green” stage, but heat (in the pan) turns that lilac to olive as the pigments break down; inside, carotenoid-rich flesh continues toward red as the fruit approaches physiological ripeness. Garden educators use Lilac Bell to connect the dots—Indigenous domestication (why bells are thick and mild), Mediterranean refinement (why we roast and stuff them), and modern pigment selection (why some bells arrive lavender before turning red).
Seed saving keeps the variety honest and local. Growers select plants that color evenly without sunscald, ripen to red reliably in their climate, and retain thick, juicy walls for stuffing and roasting. In cooler valleys, seed is saved from the earliest lavender fruits that also reach red before frost; in high-sun sites, from plants whose lilac holds without bleaching. Over seasons, a place-adapted Lilac Bell emerges—just as peppers have always become local through human hands. This is culture in the literal sense: cultivation as a community act, guided by taste, timing, and the practical needs of cooks.
In kitchens, Lilac Bell teaches color-savvy cookery. Raw, it is a star: salads, slaws, mezze, and snack plates where the lavender skin shines and the 0 SHU sweetness reads cleanly. Cooked, it hands the stage to its carotenoid cousins—reds, yellows, and oranges that keep hue under heat—while Lilac contributes sweetness and aroma even as the skin’s purple softens. Canners slip lilac bells into mixed-color jars knowing the final shades will mellow; roasters pair them with yellow and red bells for flavor depth and a visual story of ripeness.
To grow Lilac Bell is to hold several histories at once: the Indigenous stewardship that made bells thick, mild, and versatile; the Old World hearths that shaped their blocky form for roasting and preserving; and the modern seed commons that chose beauty and biology together in a lavender skin. Each harvest basket of lilac-to-red fruit is a thread in that tapestry—evidence that people and peppers have been co-creating food across oceans and centuries, with seed saving as the quiet craft that keeps culture alive.
Saving seeds from Lilac Bell Peppers (Capsicum annuum):
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving:
Choose healthy plants with vigorous growth and abundant peppers.
Avoid plants showing signs of disease or poor growth.
2. Harvesting Seeds:
Timing: Allow the peppers to mature fully on the plant until they turn purple and wrinkled.
Collection: Harvest the ripe peppers and cut them open to remove the seeds.
3. Cleaning Seeds:
Separation: Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pepper flesh.
Inspection: Ensure seeds are clean and free from mold or pests.
4. Drying Seeds:
Place the seeds on a paper towel or screen in a well-ventilated, dry area. Allow them to dry completely for one to two weeks.
5. Storing Seeds:
Containers: Store seeds in labeled paper envelopes or airtight containers.
Storage Conditions: Keep in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Viability: Use seeds within two to three years for best results.
6. Testing Seed Viability:
Test by placing seeds on a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in a warm place and check for germination.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving:
Isolation: Maintain distance between different pepper varieties to prevent cross-pollination.
Pollinators: Encourage pollinators for better seed production.
Record Keeping: Keep detailed records of the process.
Uses and Benefits:
Lilac Bell Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is known for its sweet flavor and unique lilac color. It is often used in salads, stir-fries, and as a fresh snack.
Peppers provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supporting overall health. Lilac Bell Peppers are versatile in culinary applications, adding color and sweetness to dishes.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - Lilac Bell
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Pastel charm with classic crunch. Lilac Bell ripens through a unique lavender-lilac stage before maturing red—zero heat (0 SHU)—bringing garden sweetness and show-stopping color to salads and market baskets. Harvest at lilac for crisp, mild sweetness, or wait for full red to deepen the flavor.
Plants are compact and productive, typically 18–24 inches tall with a tidy, branching habit for beds or containers. Glossy foliage frames blocky, 3–4-lobed bells about 3–4 inches across, with thick, juicy walls and smooth shoulders. Fruit move from green to pale lavender (anthocyanins on sun-facing sides) and finally rich red; bicolor blushes are common and desirable.
In the kitchen, Lilac Bell shines fresh—its pastel flesh stays crisp in salads, snack trays, and slaws. It roasts and grills like any bell (the lilac exterior softens toward olive/mahogany with heat), and stuffed halves hold their shape beautifully. Dice and freeze red-stage fruit for sauces and soups; quick-pickle rings preserve the unusual color for eye-catching jars.
Selected for reliable set and ornamental appeal, Lilac Bell rewards steady moisture and full sun with long, colorful harvests. Provide balanced feeding, avoid heavy defoliation (to limit sunscald on pale skins), and harvest frequently to keep plants pushing new blossoms. A crowd-pleaser that blends flavor and flair—without the heat.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
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Wow, what a pretty blue these seeds are. i can't wait to plant them and watch them grow. I will update you on how many germinate. The seeds look healthy.
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Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.