Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
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Description
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is a wild-type native wildflower found throughout the eastern and central United States, including the Great Lakes region, New England, the Mid-Atlantic, and much of the Midwest. This upright perennial produces masses of deep purple, daisy-like blooms with bright yellow centers, offering some of the most vibrant color of the fall season.
As a true native species, it plays an important ecological role, providing late-season nectar for monarchs, native bees, and other pollinators when few other flowers remain. The plants develop sturdy stems and naturalize well in meadows, pollinator gardens, roadsides, and restoration plantings.
This species can be more challenging to start from seed. New England Aster has naturally lower germination rates compared to many garden ornamentals and requires cold stratification for reliable sprouting. Surface sowing and steady moisture are essential to successful germination.
Once established, New England Aster is hardy, vigorous, and long-lived, delivering dependable late-season blooms and meaningful habitat value year after year.
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HOW TO GROW - NEW ENGLAND ASTER (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
New England Aster is a hardy native perennial that shines when many gardens are fading. The goal is to grow strong, upright stems early, keep airflow high to reduce mildew, then support heavy late-season bloom with steady moisture and smart pruning or pinching.
====================
SITE AND SUNLIGHT
Full sun is best, 8+ hours daily.
Light shade is tolerated, but plants often grow taller and lean more, with fewer blooms.
Choose a spot with good airflow. This is one of the best defenses against powdery mildew.
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SOIL HEALTH AND BED PREP
Ideal soil: well-drained loam with moderate organic matter.
Target soil pH: about 6.0 to 7.0.
New England Aster tolerates a range of soils, but it performs best with steady fertility, not extreme richness.
Work in compost before planting if soil is thin or compacted.
Rich, high-nitrogen soil can create very tall growth that flops and mildews more easily.
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WHEN TO PLANT
Plant in spring after hard freezes are mostly past, or plant in fall while soil is still workable.
Fall planting can be excellent because roots establish in cool weather.
If starting from seed, many growers use cold stratification or fall sowing for best germination.
====================
SEEDING AND SPACING
Direct sow (seed)
Surface sow or cover very lightly.
Keep the surface lightly moist until germination.
Thin seedlings so plants have room to branch and breathe.
Spacing
Give plants room.
A common spacing is 18 to 24 inches between plants, depending on how large you expect them to get.
Crowding increases mildew and causes weak lower stems.
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WATERING AND MOISTURE RHYTHM
Keep soil evenly moist during establishment.
Once established, New England Aster prefers regular moisture, especially during summer heat and during bud and bloom.
Aim for roughly 1 inch of water per week, more during drought or sandy soils.
Water deeply at the base. Avoid overhead watering late in the day to reduce mildew and leaf diseases.
Mulch after plants are established to stabilize moisture and reduce soil splash.
Common mistake
Letting plants dry hard in summer, then soaking. That swing can stress plants and reduce bloom quality.
====================
MULCHING AND ROOT ZONE CARE
Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Keep mulch a little back from the crown to prevent crown rot.
Mulch also reduces soil splash, which can reduce leaf spot pressure.
====================
FLOWERING AND BLOOM PERFORMANCE
This is a late-season bloomer, typically late summer through fall.
For more flowers and a bushier plant, pinch stems back in late spring to early summer.
Do not pinch too late, or you may delay flowering too much.
Deadheading can extend bloom somewhat, but many gardeners leave late flowers and seed heads for seasonal value.
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FEEDING AND MIDSEASON CARE
Early growth
Focus on steady moisture and a clean weed-free root zone.
If feeding, use compost or a balanced fertilizer lightly in spring.
Midseason
Avoid heavy nitrogen.
Too much nitrogen drives tall leafy growth that flops and mildews.
If plants are tall and lush, stop feeding and focus on airflow and consistent watering.
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PRUNING, PINCHING, AND HEIGHT CONTROL
Pinching option (recommended for many growers)
In late spring or early summer, pinch or cut stems back by 4 to 8 inches.
This encourages branching, more bloom sites, and a shorter, sturdier plant.
Staking option
In rich soil or windy sites, plants may need light staking or a support ring.
Planting in groups also helps stems support each other.
====================
PEST AND DISEASE PREVENTION
Space plants well and keep airflow open.
Water at the soil line and avoid wet foliage at night.
Remove the worst mildew leaves to slow spread, but do not strip the plant bare.
Keep weeds down to reduce aster leafhopper habitat and stress.
Clean up plant debris at season end to reduce overwintering disease.
====================
END OF SEASON CARE
After hard frost, you can cut stems back to a few inches, or leave them standing for winter structure and cut back in late winter.
Divide clumps every few years if plants get crowded or bloom declines.
Division also helps rejuvenate older clumps and improves airflow.
ADDITIONAL TIPS - NEW ENGLAND ASTER (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
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BLOOM TIMING (GET IT RIGHT)
This is a late-season powerhouse, typically blooming from late summer into fall.
For the heaviest bloom, keep plants growing steadily through summer so they have energy when bud set begins.
Quick field checks
Buds form at stem tips and branch tips as days shorten.
Bloom is best in full sun, and stems stay sturdier in open, airy sites.
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PINCHING AND HEIGHT CONTROL (THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FLOPPY AND STRONG)
If you want shorter, bushier plants with more flowers, pinch or cut stems back in late spring to early summer.
A simple rule
Cut back by about 4 to 8 inches once or twice early in the season.
Stop cutting back by mid-summer so plants have time to set buds for fall bloom.
If you skip pinching
Expect taller plants, especially in rich soil, and be ready to stake if needed.
====================
STAKING AND SUPPORT (WHEN IT IS WORTH IT)
In rich soil, windy sites, or partial shade, New England Aster can get tall and lean.
Support options
Grow in clumps so stems support each other.
Use a light stake or a grow-through ring early, before plants get top-heavy.
Do not tie tightly. Allow some movement so stems strengthen naturally.
====================
WATERING RHYTHM (KEEP IT BLOOMING IN FALL)
Deep water, then let the top inch dry slightly. Repeat.
During bud set and bloom, consistent moisture matters more than in spring.
Avoid extremes.
Dry-to-flood cycles can reduce bloom quality and stress plants.
Water at the base in the morning.
Wet leaves at night invites mildew.
Heat wave adjustment
During extreme heat, water a bit more often, but still deeply. Mulch helps keep roots cooler.
====================
MULCH AND ROOT ZONE CARE (KEEP IT CLEAN)
Mulch 2 to 3 inches to hold moisture, suppress weeds, and reduce soil splash onto leaves.
Keep mulch slightly away from the crown to prevent crown rot.
A clean root zone also helps reduce leafhopper habitat and stress.
====================
DISEASE PREVENTION (KEEP THE CANOPY WORKING)
Powdery mildew is common on asters, especially in humid weather.
The goal is not perfection, it is keeping leaves functional through bloom season.
What helps
Full sun and spacing for airflow.
Thin crowded stems if the clump gets dense.
Water at the soil line, not overhead.
Remove only the worst infected leaves, do not strip the plant bare.
After season cleanup
Remove fallen leaves and cut back infected stems.
Cleaning up reduces disease carryover into next year.
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PEST WATCH LIST (WHAT TO CHECK WEEKLY)
APHIDS
Check tender new growth and stem tips early.
Strong water spray or insecticidal soap works best when infestations are small.
ASTER LEAFHOPPER
Watch for washed-out leaves and stunting.
Keep weeds down and remove suspicious plants early if you see aster yellows symptoms.
SPIDER MITES
Watch for stippling and bronzing in hot, dry spells.
Rinse leaf undersides and keep plants from severe drought stress.
JAPANESE BEETLES
If present in your area, hand-pick early in the morning and reduce damage before it escalates.
====================
FLOWER MANAGEMENT (EXTEND THE SHOW)
Deadheading can keep plants looking cleaner and can encourage continued flowering on side branches.
If you want reseeding
Leave some flower heads to mature at the end of the season.
If you want tidy beds
Shear off spent blooms and cut stems back after bloom finishes.
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DIVIDING AND LONG-TERM HEALTH (KEEP CLUMPS STRONG)
Divide every few years if the clump gets crowded, the center thins, or flowering declines.
Best times to divide
Early spring as shoots emerge, or early fall after peak bloom.
Division improves airflow, reduces disease pressure, and refreshes vigor.
Actions: Rinse foliage and flowers, use insecticidal soap or neem at dusk. Remove badly damaged blooms.
SPIDER MITES
Signs: Fine webbing, stippled leaves that bronze in hot, dry weather, leaf drop during severe infestations.
Prevention: Reduce drought stress, limit dust, avoid overcrowding, maintain even moisture early in the season.
Actions: Hose off undersides, insecticidal soap or neem, repeat every few days until controlled.
JAPANESE BEETLES
Signs: Chewed leaves and ragged edges, beetles feeding on foliage and sometimes flowers.
Prevention: Hand-pick early in the morning, avoid attracting them by keeping nearby plants monitored, maintain plant vigor.
Actions: Hand-pick into soapy water, use row cover on smaller plantings when beetles are heavy (remove for bloom access). Treat heavy outbreaks with approved controls applied at dusk.
====================
DISEASES
POWDERY MILDEW
Signs: White powdery patches on leaves, yellowing and decline, usually later in the season.
Prevention: Full sun, good airflow, avoid overhead watering, thin crowded stems.
Actions: Remove worst leaves, spray potassium bicarbonate, sulfur, or neem early when symptoms begin, repeat as directed.
RUST
Signs: Yellow spots on upper leaf surface, orange-brown pustules on leaf undersides, leaves may drop early.
Prevention: Space plants for airflow, water at soil line, avoid wet foliage at night, remove infected plant debris.
Actions: Remove infected leaves early, apply approved protectants if spreading is rapid, clean up thoroughly at season end.
LEAF SPOT (various fungi)
Signs: Dark spots that expand, yellow halos, leaf browning and drop in prolonged wet weather.
Prevention: Water at the base, avoid splashing soil onto leaves, keep mulch to reduce splash, provide spacing.
Actions: Remove affected leaves, improve airflow, use copper or other approved protectants early if needed.
BOTRYTIS (GRAY MOLD)
Signs: Gray fuzzy mold on flowers or stems, especially in cool, damp weather or crowded growth.
Actions: Remove infected plants promptly and discard (do not compost). There is no cure once infected.
====================
PHYSIOLOGICAL AND GROWING ISSUES
FLOPPING OR LEANING STEMS
Signs: Tall plants fall over, especially after rain or in shade.
Causes: Too much shade, overly rich soil, excess nitrogen, crowded stems.
Fix: Grow in full sun, avoid heavy nitrogen feeding, thin stems, use light staking if needed.
POOR BLOOMING
Signs: Lots of foliage, few flowers, late or weak flowering.
Causes: Too much shade, too much nitrogen, drought stress during bud set, cutting back too late.
Fix: Full sun, steady moisture during bud set, avoid high nitrogen late season. If you pinch or cut back, do it early in the season only.
LEGGINESS
Signs: Bare lower stems, top-heavy growth.
Causes: Crowding, shade, no early season pinching.
Fix: Space plants well, pinch stems back early (late spring to early summer) for bushier growth.
====================
GENERAL PREVENTION CHECKLIST
Plant in full sun with spacing for airflow.
Water at the soil line and avoid wet foliage at night.
Keep weeds down to reduce leafhopper pressure.
Avoid heavy nitrogen feeding, especially later in the season.
Remove infected leaves and spent blooms promptly.
Clean up plant debris at season end to reduce overwintering disease.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) - New England Aster
Q: What is New England Aster?
A: New England Aster is a hardy native perennial wildflower, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae, known for its vivid late-season blooms, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers, and its value as a fall pollinator plant.
Q: Is New England Aster native to the United States?
A: Yes. Symphyotrichum novae-angliae is native to much of the eastern and central United States and is a classic species of meadows, fields, and open woodland edges.
Q: Is New England Aster perennial?
A: Yes. It is a true perennial that returns each year from the root system and can form larger clumps over time.
Q: When does New England Aster bloom?
A: It is a late bloomer, typically flowering from late summer into fall, often peaking when many other flowers are fading.
Q: What color are the flowers?
A: Most New England Aster plants bloom in purple to violet shades with golden yellow centers, though some natural variation can occur.
Q: How tall does New England Aster get?
A: Many plants reach about 3–6 feet tall, depending on soil fertility, moisture, and sunlight. In rich soil it often grows taller and may need support.
Q: Does New England Aster attract pollinators?
A: Yes. It is one of the most important late-season nectar sources for bees and butterflies, and it is especially valuable for supporting pollinators heading into fall.
Q: Does New England Aster spread?
A: It can expand slowly by clumping and may also reseed. In the right conditions it can naturalize, but it is typically easy to manage by thinning or dividing.
Q: Does New England Aster need full sun?
A: Full sun is best for sturdy stems and maximum flowering. It can handle light shade, but may grow taller and lean more.
Q: Is New England Aster deer resistant?
A: It is often considered deer resistant because of its fuzzy foliage, but browsing can still happen when deer pressure is high.
Q: How do I start New England Aster from seed?
A: Seeds can be sown on the surface or barely covered. Many growers get better germination with a cold stratification period, or by fall sowing outdoors for natural winter chilling.
Q: Can I grow New England Aster in containers?
A: Yes, but it is a large perennial. Use a deep container with excellent drainage, keep moisture consistent, and expect the plant to perform best when eventually planted in the ground.
Q: Why do asters sometimes get white coating on leaves?
A: That is usually powdery mildew, which is common on asters in humid conditions or when plants are crowded. Good airflow, full sun, and avoiding overhead watering help reduce it.
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USES AND BENEFITS - NEW ENGLAND ASTER (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
New England Aster earns its space when the season is turning. It brings a wall of late-summer to fall color, feeds pollinators when many flowers are finished, and fills borders and meadows with tall, upright structure that looks intentional even in wild plantings.
====================
PRIMARY USES
LATE-SEASON POLLINATOR POWERHOUSE
One of the strongest nectar and pollen sources of the fall season.
Supports bees and butterflies during a critical window when floral resources are fading.
Ideal for pollinator gardens, habitat strips, and seasonal succession planting.
BORDER AND BACKDROP PERENNIAL
Tall stems and dense blooms make it a perfect back-of-bed plant.
Adds height, structure, and a bold color hit when many summer flowers are declining.
Works well in large drifts for a dramatic fall show.
MEADOW, PRAIRIE-EDGE, AND NATURALIZED PLANTINGS
Fits naturally into meadow mixes and open landscape edges.
Can form larger clumps over time and hold space well against other perennials.
Excellent for restoration-style gardens and low-input plantings.
====================
GARDEN PERFORMANCE BENEFITS
LATE BLOOM BENEFIT
Extends the garden season into fall with heavy flowering.
Pairs well with grasses and other fall performers for a finished, end-of-season look.
Even after bloom, stems and seed heads can add seasonal texture if left standing.
TOUGHNESS BENEFIT
Handles heat and humidity better than many fall flowers when grown in full sun with airflow.
Perennial roots return reliably each year, building a stronger clump over time.
====================
HOUSEHOLD AND LANDSCAPE BENEFITS
SEASONAL COLOR WHEN YOU NEED IT MOST
Delivers bold fall color for landscapes, community gardens, and home beds without needing replanting every year.
Perfect for extending curb appeal after summer flowers fade.
LOW-INPUT RETURN
Once established, it performs with basic care: sun, spacing, and steady moisture during dry spells.
Division every few years keeps clumps vigorous and prevents crowding.
WILDLIFE VALUE
Flowers feed pollinators late in the year.
Seed heads can provide seasonal interest and occasional bird use, especially if left into winter.
====================
WAYS TO ENJOY (DETAILED IDEAS)
POLLINATOR BORDER BACKBONE
Plant in the back row of sunny beds and let shorter flowers fill the front.
Mix with other late bloomers so something is always flowering from summer into frost.
MEADOW DRIFTS
Plant in groups or drifts for a natural, high-impact look.
Let clumps expand, then divide and spread to grow the planting over time.
FALL COLOR WALL
Use a longer row along fences, property edges, or garden borders to create a strong autumn backdrop.
Cut back or pinch early in the season to keep it a bit shorter and fuller.
CUT FLOWERS
Harvest stems when many buds are open but some are still tight.
Strip lower leaves, place in clean water, and refresh water regularly for longer vase life.
WINTER STRUCTURE
Leave some stems standing after frost for texture and seasonal interest.
Cut back in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.
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COLOR PAIRINGS
BEST PAIRINGS
Ornamental grasses for movement and contrast.
Golden fall flowers for a classic purple-and-gold look.
White late-season flowers for a clean, high-contrast border.
====================
WHO THIS FLOWER IS PERFECT FOR
Gardeners who want strong fall color without replanting every year.
Growers building pollinator habitat and late-season nectar sources.
People who like tall, dramatic border plants and meadow-style drifts.
Anyone trying to extend their garden’s bloom season into fall.
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Alliance of Native Seedkeepers
Aster Seeds - Symphyotrichum novae-angliae - New England
$200 USD
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is a wild-type native wildflower found throughout the eastern and central United States, including the Great Lakes region, New England, the Mid-Atlantic, and much of the Midwest. This upright perennial produces masses of deep purple, daisy-like blooms with bright yellow centers, offering some of the most vibrant color of the fall season.
As a true native species, it plays an important ecological role, providing late-season nectar for monarchs, native bees, and other pollinators when few other flowers remain. The plants develop sturdy stems and naturalize well in meadows, pollinator gardens, roadsides, and restoration plantings.
This species can be more challenging to start from seed. New England Aster has naturally lower germination rates compared to many garden ornamentals and requires cold stratification for reliable sprouting. Surface sowing and steady moisture are essential to successful germination.
Once established, New England Aster is hardy, vigorous, and long-lived, delivering dependable late-season blooms and meaningful habitat value year after year.
