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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Gold Medal Beefsteak
Giant red-and-gold marbled fruits with outstanding sweetness and visual appeal.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TS8
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Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The Gold Medal Tomato is a show-stopping indeterminate heirloom celebrated for its massive size, stunning coloration, and sweet, low-acid flavor. Maturing in about 85–90 days, this variety produces enormous 1–2 pound beefsteaks with radiant yellow skin marbled through with red and pink streaks, creating a natural tie-dye effect both inside and out.
Fruits are rich, fruity, and smooth, with a pronounced sweetness and very mild acidity that makes them perfect for fresh slicing and presentation. The texture is dense and velvety, with few seeds and minimal gel, ensuring thick, meaty slices ideal for sandwiches, salads, or caprese platters.
Plants are vigorous and long-bearing, often reaching 6–8 feet tall, requiring strong staking or cages to support heavy yields. They thrive in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil, benefiting from consistent deep watering and mulching to maintain soil moisture and prevent cracking.
First introduced by Ben Quisenberry of Ohio, a legendary seed saver known for preserving flavor-rich varieties, the Gold Medal Beefsteak Tomato remains one of the most beautiful and best-tasting heirlooms ever grown—a true garden centerpiece that delivers color, flavor, and abundance in equal measure.
$200 USD
$302
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
36 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Stake
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Gold Medal Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during extended dry periods or peak fruiting.
Water deeply and consistently to encourage a robust root system and prevent fruit cracking in these large, meaty fruits.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to supply steady moisture at soil level, keeping foliage dry to prevent fungal disease.
Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once the soil warms to conserve moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Tip: Gold Medal’s smooth skin and complex sweetness depend on consistent hydration—avoid drought cycles to prevent irregular fruit development.
Fertilizing
Before planting, work 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the topsoil to build fertility and structure.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to promote large fruit set and vibrant color.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract monthly to strengthen stems and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilizing—excess nitrogen produces lush foliage but delays ripening and weakens fruit walls.
Tip: Steady, moderate feeding ensures firm, vividly marbled fruits with rich, sweet flavor and minimal cracking.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting areas free of weeds to prevent nutrient competition and pest shelter.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds, and encourage beneficial microbial activity.
Weed gently near the base to protect shallow feeder roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sunlight—6–8 hours daily for best color and sweetness.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During intense heat (>95°F / 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce sunscald on the light-colored shoulders.
Ensure ample spacing between plants to promote airflow and reduce humidity.
Tip: Consistent sunlight enhances Gold Medal’s yellow-and-red marbling while moderate shading in high heat maintains flavor balance.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 30–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate heirloom, Gold Medal requires sturdy caging, staking, or trellising to support its large, heavy fruit clusters.
Train vines vertically for easier harvest and improved airflow.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and early blight risk.
Tip: Use soft ties or mesh slings beneath large fruits to prevent stem breakage and ensure even ripening.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Enhance beneficial predator presence: Interplant with small-flowered plants like dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps—natural enemies of aphids and whiteflies.
Promote pollinator diversity: Grow flowering species like calendula, cosmos, and native asters nearby to boost pollination and yield consistency.
Crop rotation: Avoid planting tomatoes or other nightshades (potatoes, peppers, eggplants) in the same soil for at least 2–3 years to reduce disease pressure. Rotate with legumes or cereal grains to build soil nitrogen and structure.
Soil ecology: Maintain mulch and avoid bare soil to protect beneficial nematodes and ground beetles.
Tip: Biodiversity and rotation are cornerstone principles of modern IPM—more effective than anecdotal “companion plant” claims.
Container Growing
Grow in extra-large containers (minimum 25–30 gallons) with a strong cage or trellis system.
Use a high-quality organic potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for aeration and drainage.
Monitor moisture daily—large beefsteak types require consistent watering.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or organic tomato fertilizer for sustained growth.
Tip: Mulch the container surface to reduce evaporation and promote even moisture levels for large, consistent fruit size.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to retain warmth and protect young transplants.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before planting in cooler climates.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before frost to direct plant energy toward ripening fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Gold Medal’s thick flesh and rich marbling allow for excellent off-vine ripening—store in indirect light at room temperature for best flavor.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, increasing slightly during extended dry periods or peak fruiting.
Water deeply and consistently to encourage a robust root system and prevent fruit cracking in these large, meaty fruits.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to supply steady moisture at soil level, keeping foliage dry to prevent fungal disease.
Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, compost, or shredded leaves once the soil warms to conserve moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Tip: Gold Medal’s smooth skin and complex sweetness depend on consistent hydration—avoid drought cycles to prevent irregular fruit development.
Fertilizing
Before planting, work 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the topsoil to build fertility and structure.
Feed every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent).
Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to promote large fruit set and vibrant color.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract monthly to strengthen stems and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilizing—excess nitrogen produces lush foliage but delays ripening and weakens fruit walls.
Tip: Steady, moderate feeding ensures firm, vividly marbled fruits with rich, sweet flavor and minimal cracking.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting areas free of weeds to prevent nutrient competition and pest shelter.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) to conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds, and encourage beneficial microbial activity.
Weed gently near the base to protect shallow feeder roots.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide full sunlight—6–8 hours daily for best color and sweetness.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
During intense heat (>95°F / 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce sunscald on the light-colored shoulders.
Ensure ample spacing between plants to promote airflow and reduce humidity.
Tip: Consistent sunlight enhances Gold Medal’s yellow-and-red marbling while moderate shading in high heat maintains flavor balance.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 30–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate heirloom, Gold Medal requires sturdy caging, staking, or trellising to support its large, heavy fruit clusters.
Train vines vertically for easier harvest and improved airflow.
Remove lower leaves beneath the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and early blight risk.
Tip: Use soft ties or mesh slings beneath large fruits to prevent stem breakage and ensure even ripening.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Enhance beneficial predator presence: Interplant with small-flowered plants like dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps—natural enemies of aphids and whiteflies.
Promote pollinator diversity: Grow flowering species like calendula, cosmos, and native asters nearby to boost pollination and yield consistency.
Crop rotation: Avoid planting tomatoes or other nightshades (potatoes, peppers, eggplants) in the same soil for at least 2–3 years to reduce disease pressure. Rotate with legumes or cereal grains to build soil nitrogen and structure.
Soil ecology: Maintain mulch and avoid bare soil to protect beneficial nematodes and ground beetles.
Tip: Biodiversity and rotation are cornerstone principles of modern IPM—more effective than anecdotal “companion plant” claims.
Container Growing
Grow in extra-large containers (minimum 25–30 gallons) with a strong cage or trellis system.
Use a high-quality organic potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for aeration and drainage.
Monitor moisture daily—large beefsteak types require consistent watering.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or organic tomato fertilizer for sustained growth.
Tip: Mulch the container surface to reduce evaporation and promote even moisture levels for large, consistent fruit size.
Season Extension
Use row covers or low tunnels early in the season to retain warmth and protect young transplants.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before planting in cooler climates.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms 4 weeks before frost to direct plant energy toward ripening fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe tomatoes before frost—they’ll finish ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Gold Medal’s thick flesh and rich marbling allow for excellent off-vine ripening—store in indirect light at room temperature for best flavor.
Additional Tips — Gold Medal Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reveal their characteristic marbling—golden-yellow overlaid with streaks and blushes of red radiating from the blossom end. Fully ripe fruits are smooth, slightly ribbed, and weigh between 1–2 pounds. The skin should feel taut but yield gently under pressure, signaling perfect ripeness.
Use pruning shears or scissors to harvest, leaving a short stem attached to prevent calyx tearing. Avoid twisting, as the skin is delicate and prone to bruising.
Pick every few days once ripening begins; fruits color gradually from the base upward. Harvest slightly underripe for transport, as color and flavor continue to develop off the vine. Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall, since high moisture content can lead to cracking.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Gold Medal is renowned for its luscious, sweet, and mild flavor with subtle fruit notes of peach and honey. The flesh is marbled yellow and red—dense, juicy, and nearly seedless—offering a smooth, almost tropical sweetness balanced by gentle acidity.
Ideal for fresh slicing, sandwiches, and caprese salads, this tomato’s marbled interior makes it a showpiece in every dish. When roasted or grilled, its natural sugars caramelize into a golden jam-like richness perfect for sauces or glazes.
The complexity of flavor and striking coloration make it equally suited to raw and cooked dishes—delightful in chilled soups, tarts, or with burrata and fresh basil.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Avoid refrigeration, which dulls sweetness and compromises texture.
Arrange in a single layer on padded trays or cloth-lined surfaces to prevent bruising. Gold Medal’s soft skin limits long-term storage; enjoy within 4–6 days for peak flavor.
Harvest slightly before full coloration for market or display; the fruit will finish ripening evenly indoors, developing full marbling and sweetness.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate beefsteak variety, Gold Medal requires sturdy support and consistent pruning. Provide stakes or trellises 7–8 feet tall, tying vines regularly to prevent breakage under fruit weight.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to reduce soil-borne diseases and improve airflow. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to channel energy toward fruit development.
Avoid over-pruning—retain moderate canopy coverage to shade fruit clusters and protect the skin’s marbled coloration from sunscald. Regular tie-ups keep clusters accessible and reduce stress on heavy stems.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of sunlight daily for optimal color and sugar accumulation. In very hot regions, afternoon shade helps preserve fruit firmness and hue.
Water deeply once or twice weekly, maintaining consistent soil moisture to prevent cracking or uneven ripening. Apply mulch—straw, compost, or shredded leaves—once soil has warmed to stabilize temperature and retain moisture.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water at the base, keeping foliage dry to minimize blight and other fungal diseases.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants producing richly marbled, large fruits with balanced flavor. Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days to remove the gelatinous coating. Stir daily to prevent mold. Rinse thoroughly and spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Gold Medal seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes; maintain 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Gold Medal thrives in fertile, well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. Its large blossoms attract pollinators—especially bumblebees and native bees—that ensure full fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with flowering herbs such as dill, basil, or alyssum to sustain pollinator activity and suppress pest populations. Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years with legumes or greens to renew nitrogen and prevent soil-borne disease.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which share common pests and pathogens. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing between plants for airflow and light distribution. Annual additions of compost or worm castings improve flavor depth and soil vitality.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Gold Medal’s sun-dappled marbling and honeyed sweetness make it a centerpiece in any dish or display. Slice thickly for salads or sandwiches, or use as a focal point in heirloom assortments.
Roast with olive oil and herbs for a golden-red sauce or layer raw slices with mozzarella and basil for visual and flavor harmony. Its low acidity pairs beautifully with citrus vinaigrettes, seafood, or aged cheeses.
For market displays, pair with green and purple varieties like Green Zebra and Cherokee Purple—the golden glow of Gold Medal evokes warmth, richness, and the full radiance of midsummer harvest.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reveal their characteristic marbling—golden-yellow overlaid with streaks and blushes of red radiating from the blossom end. Fully ripe fruits are smooth, slightly ribbed, and weigh between 1–2 pounds. The skin should feel taut but yield gently under pressure, signaling perfect ripeness.
Use pruning shears or scissors to harvest, leaving a short stem attached to prevent calyx tearing. Avoid twisting, as the skin is delicate and prone to bruising.
Pick every few days once ripening begins; fruits color gradually from the base upward. Harvest slightly underripe for transport, as color and flavor continue to develop off the vine. Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall, since high moisture content can lead to cracking.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Gold Medal is renowned for its luscious, sweet, and mild flavor with subtle fruit notes of peach and honey. The flesh is marbled yellow and red—dense, juicy, and nearly seedless—offering a smooth, almost tropical sweetness balanced by gentle acidity.
Ideal for fresh slicing, sandwiches, and caprese salads, this tomato’s marbled interior makes it a showpiece in every dish. When roasted or grilled, its natural sugars caramelize into a golden jam-like richness perfect for sauces or glazes.
The complexity of flavor and striking coloration make it equally suited to raw and cooked dishes—delightful in chilled soups, tarts, or with burrata and fresh basil.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70°F (13–21°C) in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Avoid refrigeration, which dulls sweetness and compromises texture.
Arrange in a single layer on padded trays or cloth-lined surfaces to prevent bruising. Gold Medal’s soft skin limits long-term storage; enjoy within 4–6 days for peak flavor.
Harvest slightly before full coloration for market or display; the fruit will finish ripening evenly indoors, developing full marbling and sweetness.
Pruning & Support:
As a vigorous indeterminate beefsteak variety, Gold Medal requires sturdy support and consistent pruning. Provide stakes or trellises 7–8 feet tall, tying vines regularly to prevent breakage under fruit weight.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to reduce soil-borne diseases and improve airflow. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to channel energy toward fruit development.
Avoid over-pruning—retain moderate canopy coverage to shade fruit clusters and protect the skin’s marbled coloration from sunscald. Regular tie-ups keep clusters accessible and reduce stress on heavy stems.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of sunlight daily for optimal color and sugar accumulation. In very hot regions, afternoon shade helps preserve fruit firmness and hue.
Water deeply once or twice weekly, maintaining consistent soil moisture to prevent cracking or uneven ripening. Apply mulch—straw, compost, or shredded leaves—once soil has warmed to stabilize temperature and retain moisture.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water at the base, keeping foliage dry to minimize blight and other fungal diseases.
Seed Saving:
Select seed from healthy, true-to-type plants producing richly marbled, large fruits with balanced flavor. Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days to remove the gelatinous coating. Stir daily to prevent mold. Rinse thoroughly and spread seeds thinly on a non-stick surface or fine mesh to dry for 7–10 days in shade with good airflow.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Gold Medal seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true unless cross-pollinated by nearby tomatoes; maintain 25–50 feet of isolation for purity.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Gold Medal thrives in fertile, well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. Its large blossoms attract pollinators—especially bumblebees and native bees—that ensure full fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with flowering herbs such as dill, basil, or alyssum to sustain pollinator activity and suppress pest populations. Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years with legumes or greens to renew nitrogen and prevent soil-borne disease.
Avoid planting near peppers or potatoes, which share common pests and pathogens. Maintain 30–36 inches of spacing between plants for airflow and light distribution. Annual additions of compost or worm castings improve flavor depth and soil vitality.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Gold Medal’s sun-dappled marbling and honeyed sweetness make it a centerpiece in any dish or display. Slice thickly for salads or sandwiches, or use as a focal point in heirloom assortments.
Roast with olive oil and herbs for a golden-red sauce or layer raw slices with mozzarella and basil for visual and flavor harmony. Its low acidity pairs beautifully with citrus vinaigrettes, seafood, or aged cheeses.
For market displays, pair with green and purple varieties like Green Zebra and Cherokee Purple—the golden glow of Gold Medal evokes warmth, richness, and the full radiance of midsummer harvest.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Gold Medal' Beefsteak (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, heavy defoliation and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants daily at dawn and dusk when hornworms are most active. Handpick and remove them immediately. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to naturally suppress populations. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the afternoon, ensuring thorough leaf coverage. Keep weeds trimmed and avoid dense vegetation near tomato beds to discourage moth activity.
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky residue, and stunted growth)
Controls: Monitor with yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days, targeting leaf undersides. Attract beneficial predators like lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by interplanting dill, fennel, and yarrow. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which promotes soft, aphid-prone foliage.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and black sooty mold)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Apply neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during infestations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for long-term biological suppression. Prune lower leaves to enhance airflow and remove surrounding weeds that serve as hosts.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed leaves)
Controls: Increase humidity around plants and maintain consistent soil moisture. Spray leaves with water to remove mites and debris. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations are reduced. Avoid drought stress and dusty environments that favor outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric spots on leaves, stem lesions, and defoliation)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years, avoiding consecutive Solanaceae plantings. Apply copper-based fungicide at first sign of infection. Water at the soil level to keep foliage dry. Prune lower leaves for airflow and remove infected debris promptly.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and one-sided leaf drop)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Grow resistant cultivars when available. Maintain proper drainage and consistent watering. Remove infected plants immediately and sanitize tools thoroughly.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small gray spots, premature leaf drop)
Controls: Maintain mulch to reduce soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively during humid weather. Prune for airflow and remove infected leaves at the first sign of spotting. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken spots on fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent moisture and mulch to stabilize hydration. Test soil for calcium and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that hinder calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or heavy rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Keep irrigation consistent and use mulch to maintain soil moisture levels. Avoid cycles of drought followed by sudden watering. Harvest fruits promptly during wet conditions to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches from excessive sunlight)
Controls: Maintain a healthy foliage canopy to protect fruits. Avoid over-pruning. Provide temporary shading with 20–30% shade cloth during intense sunlight.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and early disease symptoms.
Rotate tomato crops yearly to prevent soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch to conserve moisture and minimize soil splash.
Water deeply and directly at soil level to avoid wet foliage.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping canopy cover for fruit shading.
Encourage beneficial insects with companion planting diversity.
Remove diseased foliage immediately and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools after each use.
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, heavy defoliation and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants daily at dawn and dusk when hornworms are most active. Handpick and remove them immediately. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to naturally suppress populations. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the afternoon, ensuring thorough leaf coverage. Keep weeds trimmed and avoid dense vegetation near tomato beds to discourage moth activity.
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky residue, and stunted growth)
Controls: Monitor with yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days, targeting leaf undersides. Attract beneficial predators like lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies by interplanting dill, fennel, and yarrow. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which promotes soft, aphid-prone foliage.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew, and black sooty mold)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Apply neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during infestations. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for long-term biological suppression. Prune lower leaves to enhance airflow and remove surrounding weeds that serve as hosts.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed leaves)
Controls: Increase humidity around plants and maintain consistent soil moisture. Spray leaves with water to remove mites and debris. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until populations are reduced. Avoid drought stress and dusty environments that favor outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric spots on leaves, stem lesions, and defoliation)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years, avoiding consecutive Solanaceae plantings. Apply copper-based fungicide at first sign of infection. Water at the soil level to keep foliage dry. Prune lower leaves for airflow and remove infected debris promptly.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and one-sided leaf drop)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Grow resistant cultivars when available. Maintain proper drainage and consistent watering. Remove infected plants immediately and sanitize tools thoroughly.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small gray spots, premature leaf drop)
Controls: Maintain mulch to reduce soil splash. Apply copper fungicide preventively during humid weather. Prune for airflow and remove infected leaves at the first sign of spotting. Avoid overhead watering.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken spots on fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent moisture and mulch to stabilize hydration. Test soil for calcium and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that hinder calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or heavy rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Keep irrigation consistent and use mulch to maintain soil moisture levels. Avoid cycles of drought followed by sudden watering. Harvest fruits promptly during wet conditions to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches from excessive sunlight)
Controls: Maintain a healthy foliage canopy to protect fruits. Avoid over-pruning. Provide temporary shading with 20–30% shade cloth during intense sunlight.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and early disease symptoms.
Rotate tomato crops yearly to prevent soilborne pathogens.
Maintain mulch to conserve moisture and minimize soil splash.
Water deeply and directly at soil level to avoid wet foliage.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping canopy cover for fruit shading.
Encourage beneficial insects with companion planting diversity.
Remove diseased foliage immediately and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools after each use.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Gold Medal Beefsteak Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Gold Medal?
Gold Medal is an indeterminate, open-pollinated heirloom beefsteak tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) celebrated for its stunning appearance and extraordinary flavor. The fruit displays a radiant blend of golden-yellow and pink-red marbling, often weighing over a pound each. The flavor is rich, fruity, and sweet with very low acidity, ranking it among the finest slicing tomatoes for fresh eating.
Q: How long does Gold Medal take to mature?
Expect 80–90 days from transplant to harvest. Its fruits develop slowly but reward growers with impressive size and color contrast.
Q: How long does it take for Gold Medal seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days when maintained at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in a warm, moist seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Gold Medal need special soil conditions?
Gold Medal thrives in nutrient-rich, well-drained loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Deep, consistent watering and compost-enriched soil enhance flavor, size, and fruit color.
Q: What spacing do Gold Medal tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The large vines require heavy staking or cages to support their weighty fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Gold Medal is self-pollinating, though pollinator activity can increase yields.
Q: Can I grow Gold Medal in containers?
While possible, it’s best suited to the ground or raised beds due to its large size. If container-grown, use a 15–20 gallon pot with a sturdy trellis system.
Q: How tall do Gold Medal plants get?
Plants reach 5–7 feet in height, with heavy vines that benefit from pruning to increase airflow and sunlight penetration.
Q: Why are my Gold Medal fruits cracking or showing color streaks?
Cracking results from inconsistent watering, while color streaks are natural marbling that makes this variety so unique. Maintain even soil moisture to prevent splitting.
Q: How should I harvest Gold Medal tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits show full marbling of yellow, orange, and pink-red tones and have a slight softness to the touch.
Q: How do I store Gold Medal tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at room temperature (55–70 °F or 13–21 °C). Avoid refrigeration, as it reduces sweetness and texture.
Q: Are Gold Medal tomatoes good for cooking?
While best enjoyed fresh, Gold Medal adds vibrant color and sweetness to salads, sandwiches, and sauces. Its mild, fruity flavor complements herbs, balsamic vinegar, and cheeses beautifully.
Q: Are Gold Medal tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Gold Medal is a pre-1900s heirloom from Ohio, originally popularized by Ben Quisenberry, the seed preservationist who also helped save the Brandywine tomato. It represents one of the classic American yellow-red bicolors that shaped heirloom tomato history.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit size may result from excessive heat or drought stress. Maintain consistent watering and provide rich organic nutrition to encourage large, full-sized fruits.
Q: Can I save seeds from Gold Medal?
Yes. It’s open-pollinated and will breed true to type. Choose healthy fruits that display ideal coloration, ferment seeds for 2–3 days, rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before storage.
Q: What type of tomato is Gold Medal?
Gold Medal is an indeterminate, open-pollinated heirloom beefsteak tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) celebrated for its stunning appearance and extraordinary flavor. The fruit displays a radiant blend of golden-yellow and pink-red marbling, often weighing over a pound each. The flavor is rich, fruity, and sweet with very low acidity, ranking it among the finest slicing tomatoes for fresh eating.
Q: How long does Gold Medal take to mature?
Expect 80–90 days from transplant to harvest. Its fruits develop slowly but reward growers with impressive size and color contrast.
Q: How long does it take for Gold Medal seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days when maintained at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C) in a warm, moist seed-starting mix.
Q: Does Gold Medal need special soil conditions?
Gold Medal thrives in nutrient-rich, well-drained loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Deep, consistent watering and compost-enriched soil enhance flavor, size, and fruit color.
Q: What spacing do Gold Medal tomatoes need?
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The large vines require heavy staking or cages to support their weighty fruit clusters.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Gold Medal is self-pollinating, though pollinator activity can increase yields.
Q: Can I grow Gold Medal in containers?
While possible, it’s best suited to the ground or raised beds due to its large size. If container-grown, use a 15–20 gallon pot with a sturdy trellis system.
Q: How tall do Gold Medal plants get?
Plants reach 5–7 feet in height, with heavy vines that benefit from pruning to increase airflow and sunlight penetration.
Q: Why are my Gold Medal fruits cracking or showing color streaks?
Cracking results from inconsistent watering, while color streaks are natural marbling that makes this variety so unique. Maintain even soil moisture to prevent splitting.
Q: How should I harvest Gold Medal tomatoes?
Harvest when fruits show full marbling of yellow, orange, and pink-red tones and have a slight softness to the touch.
Q: How do I store Gold Medal tomatoes after harvest?
Keep at room temperature (55–70 °F or 13–21 °C). Avoid refrigeration, as it reduces sweetness and texture.
Q: Are Gold Medal tomatoes good for cooking?
While best enjoyed fresh, Gold Medal adds vibrant color and sweetness to salads, sandwiches, and sauces. Its mild, fruity flavor complements herbs, balsamic vinegar, and cheeses beautifully.
Q: Are Gold Medal tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Gold Medal is a pre-1900s heirloom from Ohio, originally popularized by Ben Quisenberry, the seed preservationist who also helped save the Brandywine tomato. It represents one of the classic American yellow-red bicolors that shaped heirloom tomato history.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit size may result from excessive heat or drought stress. Maintain consistent watering and provide rich organic nutrition to encourage large, full-sized fruits.
Q: Can I save seeds from Gold Medal?
Yes. It’s open-pollinated and will breed true to type. Choose healthy fruits that display ideal coloration, ferment seeds for 2–3 days, rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before storage.
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History & Culture — Gold Medal Beefsteak Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Gold Medal Tomato is an American heirloom of the 1800s, treasured for its stunning bicolor fruit — a golden-yellow base beautifully marbled with streaks of red. Large and sweet with low acidity, its flavor and appearance made it a showpiece of 19th-century gardens and exhibitions. The variety is believed to have originated in Ohio, where it earned its name after winning early agricultural fair honors for its exceptional taste and beauty.
Though cultivated in the United States, Gold Medal’s genetic and cultural heritage reaches back to Indigenous seedkeepers of the Americas who first cultivated tomatoes with varying colors, stripes, and shapes. Those early domesticated forms set the foundation for all later heirlooms, including this one, whose marbling mirrors the vibrant diversity that was once the norm in Indigenous gardens.
In today’s gardens, the Gold Medal Beefsteak Tomato shines as a tribute to continuity — a seed born of ancient domestication, refined through generations of stewardship, and cherished today for the same reasons it always has been: beauty, abundance, and flavor.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Gold Medal Tomato is an American heirloom of the 1800s, treasured for its stunning bicolor fruit — a golden-yellow base beautifully marbled with streaks of red. Large and sweet with low acidity, its flavor and appearance made it a showpiece of 19th-century gardens and exhibitions. The variety is believed to have originated in Ohio, where it earned its name after winning early agricultural fair honors for its exceptional taste and beauty.
Though cultivated in the United States, Gold Medal’s genetic and cultural heritage reaches back to Indigenous seedkeepers of the Americas who first cultivated tomatoes with varying colors, stripes, and shapes. Those early domesticated forms set the foundation for all later heirlooms, including this one, whose marbling mirrors the vibrant diversity that was once the norm in Indigenous gardens.
In today’s gardens, the Gold Medal Beefsteak Tomato shines as a tribute to continuity — a seed born of ancient domestication, refined through generations of stewardship, and cherished today for the same reasons it always has been: beauty, abundance, and flavor.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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