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Tomato Seeds - Determinate - Ace 55 VF Tomato Slicing
Dependable mid-century classic with thick, crack-resistant fruits and mild, low-acid flavor—perfect for slicing and canning.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM11
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Developed in the 1950s for gardeners seeking both flavor and resilience, Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) stands as a hallmark of dependable, homegrown quality. Unlike many modern hybrids, it retains the round, uniform beauty and mild, balanced flavor that made it a mainstay of family gardens and roadside stands for decades.
Fruits average 6–8 ounces, with smooth, firm skin and a thick, meaty interior that resists cracking and bruising—perfect for slicing, canning, or shipping. The flavor is low in acidity yet full-bodied, making it ideal for those who prefer a milder tomato that still delivers the richness of a true garden variety.
Plants are determinate and vigorous, reaching about 3–4 feet in height and producing heavy, concentrated yields over several weeks. Bred with V (Verticillium) and F (Fusarium) wilt resistance, Ace 55 VF remains one of the most reliable choices for growers in humid or disease-prone climates. Fruits ripen in 75–80 days, holding well on the vine and after harvest.
A favorite among market growers, home canners, and gardeners who value uniform, blemish-free fruit, Ace 55 VF bridges the gap between heirloom flavor and practical durability.
A true American classic—sturdy, productive, and sweetly understated, embodying the spirit of mid-century seed innovation and backyard abundance.
$200 USD
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
24 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Stake
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Determinate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and temperature. Deep, steady watering encourages strong root development and prevents cracking or blossom end rot.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to direct moisture at the soil line, keeping foliage dry to reduce disease risk. If overhead watering is the only option, do it early in the morning so leaves dry before nightfall.
Avoid the feast-and-famine cycle—consistent moisture is key. During fruit set, water deeply but less frequently to keep roots healthy and flavor concentrated. A heavy layer of mulch helps maintain even soil moisture and prevents soil splash.
Fertilizing
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (e.g., 4-4-6 or 5-5-5). Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (3-5-7) or compost tea to support steady fruit development without excessive vine growth.
Incorporate bone meal or kelp meal at transplant for phosphorus and trace minerals. Top-dress with compost or worm castings midseason to renew nutrients naturally.
Avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen—it will create lush foliage but reduce yields.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep soil weed-free to reduce competition and pest pressure. Once soil has warmed, apply 2–3 inches of mulch such as straw, compost, or shredded leaves. Mulch stabilizes soil temperature, prevents weeds, and limits splash-borne disease.
When removing weeds, disturb the soil gently around roots—tomato roots spread widely and stay near the surface.
Early in the season, black plastic mulch or landscape fabric can help preheat soil and speed early growth. Later, organic mulch keeps plants cooler and conserves moisture.
Sun & Temperature Management
Ace 55 VF thrives in full sun—6–8+ hours daily.
Ideal daytime temperatures: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
Nighttime temperatures: 60–70°F (16–21°C)
This variety handles moderate heat well, but extended highs above 90°F (32°C) can cause blossom drop. Use 30–40% shade cloth or interplant with taller crops for protection during heat waves.
Maintain airflow between plants to prevent fungal issues—especially important in humid climates.
Spacing & Support
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Though compact and determinate, Ace 55 VF benefits from sturdy cages or stakes to support heavy fruit clusters and prevent lodging.
Prune lightly—remove suckers below the first flower cluster to improve airflow, but retain upper leaves to protect fruit from sunscald. Tie stems loosely with cloth or soft twine to prevent damage.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, marigolds, carrots, onions, parsley, and garlic—all deter common tomato pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, etc.), which can inhibit growth.
Interplant nasturtiums or dill to distract aphids and hornworms. Companion herbs like basil and oregano enhance tomato flavor and discourage insect pests naturally.
Container Growing
Ace 55 VF performs well in 10–15 gallon containers. Use a well-draining organic potting mix with compost for moisture retention and fertility.
Stake or cage early to prevent root disturbance later. Containers dry quickly, so check moisture daily during summer.
Feed every 10–14 days with a diluted organic liquid fertilizer or compost tea. Shade pot sides during peak heat to protect roots and prevent premature blossom drop.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cold frames to start plants early in spring and protect from cool nights.
As the season ends, cover plants with frost cloths or move containers to sheltered spots to extend harvests a few extra weeks.
For earlier ripening, remove flowers and small green fruit 3 weeks before frost—this redirects energy into ripening mature fruit.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and temperature. Deep, steady watering encourages strong root development and prevents cracking or blossom end rot.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to direct moisture at the soil line, keeping foliage dry to reduce disease risk. If overhead watering is the only option, do it early in the morning so leaves dry before nightfall.
Avoid the feast-and-famine cycle—consistent moisture is key. During fruit set, water deeply but less frequently to keep roots healthy and flavor concentrated. A heavy layer of mulch helps maintain even soil moisture and prevents soil splash.
Fertilizing
Feed every 2–3 weeks during early growth with a balanced organic fertilizer (e.g., 4-4-6 or 5-5-5). Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (3-5-7) or compost tea to support steady fruit development without excessive vine growth.
Incorporate bone meal or kelp meal at transplant for phosphorus and trace minerals. Top-dress with compost or worm castings midseason to renew nutrients naturally.
Avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen—it will create lush foliage but reduce yields.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep soil weed-free to reduce competition and pest pressure. Once soil has warmed, apply 2–3 inches of mulch such as straw, compost, or shredded leaves. Mulch stabilizes soil temperature, prevents weeds, and limits splash-borne disease.
When removing weeds, disturb the soil gently around roots—tomato roots spread widely and stay near the surface.
Early in the season, black plastic mulch or landscape fabric can help preheat soil and speed early growth. Later, organic mulch keeps plants cooler and conserves moisture.
Sun & Temperature Management
Ace 55 VF thrives in full sun—6–8+ hours daily.
Ideal daytime temperatures: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
Nighttime temperatures: 60–70°F (16–21°C)
This variety handles moderate heat well, but extended highs above 90°F (32°C) can cause blossom drop. Use 30–40% shade cloth or interplant with taller crops for protection during heat waves.
Maintain airflow between plants to prevent fungal issues—especially important in humid climates.
Spacing & Support
Plant 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Though compact and determinate, Ace 55 VF benefits from sturdy cages or stakes to support heavy fruit clusters and prevent lodging.
Prune lightly—remove suckers below the first flower cluster to improve airflow, but retain upper leaves to protect fruit from sunscald. Tie stems loosely with cloth or soft twine to prevent damage.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Basil, marigolds, carrots, onions, parsley, and garlic—all deter common tomato pests and attract pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, etc.), which can inhibit growth.
Interplant nasturtiums or dill to distract aphids and hornworms. Companion herbs like basil and oregano enhance tomato flavor and discourage insect pests naturally.
Container Growing
Ace 55 VF performs well in 10–15 gallon containers. Use a well-draining organic potting mix with compost for moisture retention and fertility.
Stake or cage early to prevent root disturbance later. Containers dry quickly, so check moisture daily during summer.
Feed every 10–14 days with a diluted organic liquid fertilizer or compost tea. Shade pot sides during peak heat to protect roots and prevent premature blossom drop.
Season Extension
Use row covers or cold frames to start plants early in spring and protect from cool nights.
As the season ends, cover plants with frost cloths or move containers to sheltered spots to extend harvests a few extra weeks.
For earlier ripening, remove flowers and small green fruit 3 weeks before frost—this redirects energy into ripening mature fruit.
Additional Tips – Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting
Stage Options: Harvest when fruits are fully red, smooth, and firm. Ace 55 VF develops a uniform color and maintains good texture on the vine, allowing for flexible picking windows.
Technique: Use pruning shears or scissors to clip fruits with a short piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting, as this can damage stems or dislodge nearby fruit clusters.
Frequency: Check plants every 2–3 days during peak ripening. Consistent harvesting encourages complete ripening of remaining fruits and reduces splitting or pest pressure.
Maturity Signs: Firm texture, full red color, and a mild tomato aroma at the stem end signal readiness. Fruits may continue to ripen off the vine if picked slightly early.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile: Mild and balanced with lower acidity than many heirlooms—excellent for canning, juicing, and fresh slicing. Flesh is thick, meaty, and low in water content, making it a dependable utility tomato.
Nutrition: High in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene, an antioxidant linked to cardiovascular and cellular health.
Flavor Tip: For richer flavor, maintain consistent moisture through ripening. Slightly drier conditions near harvest can improve sugar concentration, but avoid stressing the plant.
Handling
Post-Harvest Care: Handle fruits gently to prevent bruising or cracking. Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) and avoid refrigeration until fully ripe.
Work Area Hygiene: Clean harvest tools and trays regularly to prevent disease spread between plants.
Processing: Wash tomatoes only before use or preservation, not before storage. Damp skins invite mold growth.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage: Keep at room temperature and consume within 5–7 days for best flavor.
Freezing: Core and dice ripe tomatoes, then freeze in labeled containers or freezer bags.
Canning: Ideal for juice and sauce due to its mild flavor and firm texture. Use approved acidification methods for safe water-bath canning.
Drying: Slice ¼ inch thick and dry at 125°F (52°C) until leathery. Store in airtight jars with desiccant packets.
Kitchen Use
Fresh: Excellent for sandwiches, salads, and salsa fresca where mild flavor is desired.
Cooked: Ideal for soups, sauces, and purees where smooth consistency and low seed content are preferred.
Pairings: Complements basil, oregano, garlic, and onion. Works well with lighter dishes and low-acid recipes.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit: Determinate and compact, reaching 3–4 feet tall.
Pruning: Minimal pruning is needed. Remove only the lowest leaves touching the soil to reduce splash-borne disease.
Soil Care: Mulch to maintain moisture and prevent cracking. Avoid excessive nitrogen to ensure balanced growth and fruiting.
Fertilizing: After flowering begins, shift to fertilizers higher in potassium and phosphorus. Compost tea or seaweed extract once a month improves plant vigor.
Heat Management: During extended heat (above 90°F / 32°C), shade plants lightly to preserve fruit set and quality.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size: Minimum 10–15 gallons with strong support.
Drainage: Essential—ensure multiple drain holes and use potting mix with compost and perlite.
Watering Rhythm: Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry. Irregular watering causes cracking and blossom end rot.
Feeding: Fertilize lightly every 10–14 days with a diluted organic tomato feed.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions: Basil, parsley, onions, garlic, carrots, and marigolds. These repel common pests and improve pollination activity.
Trap Crops: Nasturtiums and radishes attract aphids and flea beetles away from tomato plants.
Pollination Tip: Though self-pollinating, bee activity improves yield and uniformity of fruit set. Gentle shaking of blossoms during flowering can assist pollination in still air conditions.
Seed Saving
Selection: Save seeds from the healthiest, disease-free plants and fully ripe fruits true to type.
Fermentation Method: Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with water and allow to ferment for 2–3 days. Stir daily until a thin film forms, then rinse and dry on a clean paper or mesh screen.
Storage: Store dried seeds in airtight containers with desiccant packs in a cool, dark place.
Viability: Typically remains high for 4–6 years when stored properly.
Harvesting
Stage Options: Harvest when fruits are fully red, smooth, and firm. Ace 55 VF develops a uniform color and maintains good texture on the vine, allowing for flexible picking windows.
Technique: Use pruning shears or scissors to clip fruits with a short piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting, as this can damage stems or dislodge nearby fruit clusters.
Frequency: Check plants every 2–3 days during peak ripening. Consistent harvesting encourages complete ripening of remaining fruits and reduces splitting or pest pressure.
Maturity Signs: Firm texture, full red color, and a mild tomato aroma at the stem end signal readiness. Fruits may continue to ripen off the vine if picked slightly early.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile: Mild and balanced with lower acidity than many heirlooms—excellent for canning, juicing, and fresh slicing. Flesh is thick, meaty, and low in water content, making it a dependable utility tomato.
Nutrition: High in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene, an antioxidant linked to cardiovascular and cellular health.
Flavor Tip: For richer flavor, maintain consistent moisture through ripening. Slightly drier conditions near harvest can improve sugar concentration, but avoid stressing the plant.
Handling
Post-Harvest Care: Handle fruits gently to prevent bruising or cracking. Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) and avoid refrigeration until fully ripe.
Work Area Hygiene: Clean harvest tools and trays regularly to prevent disease spread between plants.
Processing: Wash tomatoes only before use or preservation, not before storage. Damp skins invite mold growth.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage: Keep at room temperature and consume within 5–7 days for best flavor.
Freezing: Core and dice ripe tomatoes, then freeze in labeled containers or freezer bags.
Canning: Ideal for juice and sauce due to its mild flavor and firm texture. Use approved acidification methods for safe water-bath canning.
Drying: Slice ¼ inch thick and dry at 125°F (52°C) until leathery. Store in airtight jars with desiccant packets.
Kitchen Use
Fresh: Excellent for sandwiches, salads, and salsa fresca where mild flavor is desired.
Cooked: Ideal for soups, sauces, and purees where smooth consistency and low seed content are preferred.
Pairings: Complements basil, oregano, garlic, and onion. Works well with lighter dishes and low-acid recipes.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit: Determinate and compact, reaching 3–4 feet tall.
Pruning: Minimal pruning is needed. Remove only the lowest leaves touching the soil to reduce splash-borne disease.
Soil Care: Mulch to maintain moisture and prevent cracking. Avoid excessive nitrogen to ensure balanced growth and fruiting.
Fertilizing: After flowering begins, shift to fertilizers higher in potassium and phosphorus. Compost tea or seaweed extract once a month improves plant vigor.
Heat Management: During extended heat (above 90°F / 32°C), shade plants lightly to preserve fruit set and quality.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size: Minimum 10–15 gallons with strong support.
Drainage: Essential—ensure multiple drain holes and use potting mix with compost and perlite.
Watering Rhythm: Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry. Irregular watering causes cracking and blossom end rot.
Feeding: Fertilize lightly every 10–14 days with a diluted organic tomato feed.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions: Basil, parsley, onions, garlic, carrots, and marigolds. These repel common pests and improve pollination activity.
Trap Crops: Nasturtiums and radishes attract aphids and flea beetles away from tomato plants.
Pollination Tip: Though self-pollinating, bee activity improves yield and uniformity of fruit set. Gentle shaking of blossoms during flowering can assist pollination in still air conditions.
Seed Saving
Selection: Save seeds from the healthiest, disease-free plants and fully ripe fruits true to type.
Fermentation Method: Scoop seeds and gel into a jar with water and allow to ferment for 2–3 days. Stir daily until a thin film forms, then rinse and dry on a clean paper or mesh screen.
Storage: Store dried seeds in airtight containers with desiccant packs in a cool, dark place.
Viability: Typically remains high for 4–6 years when stored properly.
Common Pests & Problems – Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insect Pests
Aphids:
Tiny green or black insects that cluster on stems and undersides of leaves, sucking sap and weakening new growth. Their honeydew can lead to sooty mold and ant infestations.
Organic Control: Wash plants with a strong jet of water every few days or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Interplant with basil, chives, or nasturtiums to deter them, and welcome lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies which feed on aphids naturally.
Tomato Hornworms:
Large green caterpillars that can strip a plant of foliage overnight.
Organic Control: Handpick daily—an easy and effective method. Dusting leaves with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) or spinosad also provides safe organic control. Companion planting dill, marigold, or borage helps repel adults that lay eggs.
Whiteflies:
Small white insects that swarm when disturbed and feed on sap, weakening plants.
Organic Control: Hang yellow sticky traps near plants and spray leaves with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly. Strong airflow discourages them from settling.
Spider Mites:
Microscopic pests that thrive in hot, dry conditions, leaving stippled yellow leaves and fine webs.
Organic Control: Keep soil moisture steady and increase humidity by misting. A neem oil or horticultural oil spray breaks their reproductive cycle.
Cutworms & Flea Beetles:
Cutworms chew young stems at soil level; flea beetles make “shot holes” in tender leaves.
Organic Control: Use collars made from cardboard or plastic cups around seedlings for cutworms. Floating row covers early in the season protect young plants until they toughen.
Disease Issues
Blossom End Rot:
A physiological disorder caused by uneven watering or temporary calcium unavailability, not an actual disease.
Organic Prevention: Maintain consistent soil moisture and add compost or gypsum before planting for steady calcium release. Crushed eggshells are excellent long-term amendments but not a quick fix—they break down slowly over months.
Early Blight & Septoria Leaf Spot:
Fungal leaf diseases that begin as dark spots with yellow halos on lower leaves.
Organic Prevention: Prune for airflow, water at the base, and mulch to prevent soil splash. Remove infected leaves immediately. Apply copper fungicide or bio-fungicides containing Bacillus subtilis as a preventative during humid spells.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilt:
Soilborne fungi that cause lower leaves to yellow and wilt.
Organic Prevention: Ace 55 VF is resistant to both (V and F), but rotate crops every 3–4 years, and avoid planting tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants in the same soil consecutively. Add beneficial mycorrhizae to soil for improved root resilience.
Cracking & Splitting:
Occurs when fruits swell too quickly after dry periods or heavy rain.
Organic Prevention: Keep soil evenly moist and mulch heavily with straw or compost. Harvest promptly after storms.
Sunscald:
Results from over-pruning or sudden sun exposure.
Organic Prevention: Leave some leaf cover to shade ripening fruit and avoid removing too many leaves at once.
Environmental Stresses
Heat Stress:
Temperatures above 90°F (32°C) cause flower drop and poor fruit set.
Organic Prevention: Provide 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat and water deeply in early morning.
Nutrient Imbalance:
Too much nitrogen results in vigorous vines but poor fruiting.
Organic Prevention: Feed early with composted manure or balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6), then switch to a tomato-specific formula higher in phosphorus and potassium once flowering begins.
Proactive Organic Measures
Rotate crops every 3–4 years and add compost annually to build soil life.
Use deep mulch (2–3 inches of straw, leaves, or compost) to stabilize moisture and prevent disease splash.
Clean pruning tools with vinegar or hydrogen peroxide between plants to avoid spreading infection.
Interplant with basil, marigold, garlic, or parsley to deter pests and attract pollinators.
Spray compost tea or seaweed extract monthly to strengthen plant immunity and leaf vigor.
Insect Pests
Aphids:
Tiny green or black insects that cluster on stems and undersides of leaves, sucking sap and weakening new growth. Their honeydew can lead to sooty mold and ant infestations.
Organic Control: Wash plants with a strong jet of water every few days or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Interplant with basil, chives, or nasturtiums to deter them, and welcome lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies which feed on aphids naturally.
Tomato Hornworms:
Large green caterpillars that can strip a plant of foliage overnight.
Organic Control: Handpick daily—an easy and effective method. Dusting leaves with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) or spinosad also provides safe organic control. Companion planting dill, marigold, or borage helps repel adults that lay eggs.
Whiteflies:
Small white insects that swarm when disturbed and feed on sap, weakening plants.
Organic Control: Hang yellow sticky traps near plants and spray leaves with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly. Strong airflow discourages them from settling.
Spider Mites:
Microscopic pests that thrive in hot, dry conditions, leaving stippled yellow leaves and fine webs.
Organic Control: Keep soil moisture steady and increase humidity by misting. A neem oil or horticultural oil spray breaks their reproductive cycle.
Cutworms & Flea Beetles:
Cutworms chew young stems at soil level; flea beetles make “shot holes” in tender leaves.
Organic Control: Use collars made from cardboard or plastic cups around seedlings for cutworms. Floating row covers early in the season protect young plants until they toughen.
Disease Issues
Blossom End Rot:
A physiological disorder caused by uneven watering or temporary calcium unavailability, not an actual disease.
Organic Prevention: Maintain consistent soil moisture and add compost or gypsum before planting for steady calcium release. Crushed eggshells are excellent long-term amendments but not a quick fix—they break down slowly over months.
Early Blight & Septoria Leaf Spot:
Fungal leaf diseases that begin as dark spots with yellow halos on lower leaves.
Organic Prevention: Prune for airflow, water at the base, and mulch to prevent soil splash. Remove infected leaves immediately. Apply copper fungicide or bio-fungicides containing Bacillus subtilis as a preventative during humid spells.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilt:
Soilborne fungi that cause lower leaves to yellow and wilt.
Organic Prevention: Ace 55 VF is resistant to both (V and F), but rotate crops every 3–4 years, and avoid planting tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants in the same soil consecutively. Add beneficial mycorrhizae to soil for improved root resilience.
Cracking & Splitting:
Occurs when fruits swell too quickly after dry periods or heavy rain.
Organic Prevention: Keep soil evenly moist and mulch heavily with straw or compost. Harvest promptly after storms.
Sunscald:
Results from over-pruning or sudden sun exposure.
Organic Prevention: Leave some leaf cover to shade ripening fruit and avoid removing too many leaves at once.
Environmental Stresses
Heat Stress:
Temperatures above 90°F (32°C) cause flower drop and poor fruit set.
Organic Prevention: Provide 30–40% shade cloth during extreme heat and water deeply in early morning.
Nutrient Imbalance:
Too much nitrogen results in vigorous vines but poor fruiting.
Organic Prevention: Feed early with composted manure or balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6), then switch to a tomato-specific formula higher in phosphorus and potassium once flowering begins.
Proactive Organic Measures
Rotate crops every 3–4 years and add compost annually to build soil life.
Use deep mulch (2–3 inches of straw, leaves, or compost) to stabilize moisture and prevent disease splash.
Clean pruning tools with vinegar or hydrogen peroxide between plants to avoid spreading infection.
Interplant with basil, marigold, garlic, or parsley to deter pests and attract pollinators.
Spray compost tea or seaweed extract monthly to strengthen plant immunity and leaf vigor.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What makes Ace 55 VF different from other tomatoes?
Ace 55 VF was bred in the 1950s for gardeners wanting a tomato with both classic flavor and strong disease resistance. It’s a determinate variety that produces smooth, uniform red fruits with resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts (V & F). Its mild, low-acid flavor and meaty texture make it ideal for canning, juicing, and fresh slicing.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically mature in 80–89 days from transplant. Plants set a concentrated flush of tomatoes that ripen within a few weeks—ideal for batch processing and preserving.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when soil is kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C) with steady moisture. Cooler temperatures will delay sprouting.
Q: What soil conditions does Ace 55 VF prefer?
This variety thrives in well-drained loam rich in compost or aged manure, with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Good drainage is essential to prevent disease. Mix in compost or worm castings to improve structure and nutrient availability.
Q: How far apart should plants be spaced?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Though compact, the plants need airflow to reduce disease pressure and support heavy fruit clusters.
Q: Does Ace 55 VF require staking or cages?
Yes. Even though it’s a determinate (bush-type) tomato, staking or caging helps support the weight of ripening fruit and keeps them off the soil for cleaner, healthier harvests.
Q: How much sunlight does it need?
Provide 6–8+ hours of full sun daily for best yield, flavor, and uniform ripening. Shadier spots may reduce fruit production and sweetness.
Q: What are the best watering practices?
Water deeply, providing about 1–1½ inches per week. Maintain consistent moisture—avoid long dry periods followed by heavy soaking, which can cause cracking or blossom end rot. Mulch with straw or compost to keep roots cool and soil evenly moist.
Q: What kind of fertilizer works best?
Feed with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6) during early growth, then switch to low-nitrogen, high-potassium (3-5-7) once flowers appear. Compost tea, liquid kelp, or bone meal support strong fruiting and flavor development.
Q: Is Ace 55 VF good for container growing?
Yes. Choose containers 10 gallons or larger, with high-quality potting mix and good drainage. Cage or stake plants early, and check soil moisture daily during hot weather.
Q: What are common pests and how can they be controlled organically?
Watch for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), or insecticidal soap for control. Encourage ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by interplanting basil, marigold, and dill.
Q: What diseases is Ace 55 VF resistant to?
It’s resistant to Verticillium (V) and Fusarium (F) wilt. However, you should still rotate crops and maintain clean soil practices to prevent early blight or leaf spot.
Q: What causes blossom end rot and how can I prevent it?
Blossom end rot results from uneven watering or temporary calcium unavailability. Add compost, gypsum, or finely ground eggshells before planting for long-term calcium support, and keep soil evenly moist. Crushed eggshells decompose slowly—they’re best added months before planting.
Q: Can I save seeds from Ace 55 VF?
Yes. Ace 55 VF is open-pollinated. Save seeds from ripe, healthy fruit. Ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days, rinse clean, and dry thoroughly for 7–10 days. Store in a cool, dark place—seeds remain viable for 4–6 years.
Q: How should I harvest and store the fruits?
Pick when fully red and firm, using pruning shears or by gently twisting the fruit. Store at room temperature until ripe; refrigeration dulls flavor and texture. For long-term storage, blanch and freeze or can using safe preservation methods.
Q: Can I grow Ace 55 VF alongside other tomatoes?
Yes. Cross-pollination is rare in tomatoes, but if you plan to save pure seed, keep at least 25–50 feet between varieties or bag blossoms.
Q: What makes Ace 55 VF different from other tomatoes?
Ace 55 VF was bred in the 1950s for gardeners wanting a tomato with both classic flavor and strong disease resistance. It’s a determinate variety that produces smooth, uniform red fruits with resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts (V & F). Its mild, low-acid flavor and meaty texture make it ideal for canning, juicing, and fresh slicing.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically mature in 80–89 days from transplant. Plants set a concentrated flush of tomatoes that ripen within a few weeks—ideal for batch processing and preserving.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when soil is kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C) with steady moisture. Cooler temperatures will delay sprouting.
Q: What soil conditions does Ace 55 VF prefer?
This variety thrives in well-drained loam rich in compost or aged manure, with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Good drainage is essential to prevent disease. Mix in compost or worm castings to improve structure and nutrient availability.
Q: How far apart should plants be spaced?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Though compact, the plants need airflow to reduce disease pressure and support heavy fruit clusters.
Q: Does Ace 55 VF require staking or cages?
Yes. Even though it’s a determinate (bush-type) tomato, staking or caging helps support the weight of ripening fruit and keeps them off the soil for cleaner, healthier harvests.
Q: How much sunlight does it need?
Provide 6–8+ hours of full sun daily for best yield, flavor, and uniform ripening. Shadier spots may reduce fruit production and sweetness.
Q: What are the best watering practices?
Water deeply, providing about 1–1½ inches per week. Maintain consistent moisture—avoid long dry periods followed by heavy soaking, which can cause cracking or blossom end rot. Mulch with straw or compost to keep roots cool and soil evenly moist.
Q: What kind of fertilizer works best?
Feed with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6) during early growth, then switch to low-nitrogen, high-potassium (3-5-7) once flowers appear. Compost tea, liquid kelp, or bone meal support strong fruiting and flavor development.
Q: Is Ace 55 VF good for container growing?
Yes. Choose containers 10 gallons or larger, with high-quality potting mix and good drainage. Cage or stake plants early, and check soil moisture daily during hot weather.
Q: What are common pests and how can they be controlled organically?
Watch for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), or insecticidal soap for control. Encourage ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by interplanting basil, marigold, and dill.
Q: What diseases is Ace 55 VF resistant to?
It’s resistant to Verticillium (V) and Fusarium (F) wilt. However, you should still rotate crops and maintain clean soil practices to prevent early blight or leaf spot.
Q: What causes blossom end rot and how can I prevent it?
Blossom end rot results from uneven watering or temporary calcium unavailability. Add compost, gypsum, or finely ground eggshells before planting for long-term calcium support, and keep soil evenly moist. Crushed eggshells decompose slowly—they’re best added months before planting.
Q: Can I save seeds from Ace 55 VF?
Yes. Ace 55 VF is open-pollinated. Save seeds from ripe, healthy fruit. Ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days, rinse clean, and dry thoroughly for 7–10 days. Store in a cool, dark place—seeds remain viable for 4–6 years.
Q: How should I harvest and store the fruits?
Pick when fully red and firm, using pruning shears or by gently twisting the fruit. Store at room temperature until ripe; refrigeration dulls flavor and texture. For long-term storage, blanch and freeze or can using safe preservation methods.
Q: Can I grow Ace 55 VF alongside other tomatoes?
Yes. Cross-pollination is rare in tomatoes, but if you plan to save pure seed, keep at least 25–50 feet between varieties or bag blossoms.
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History & Culture – Ace 55 VF Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
The tomato’s story begins in the Andean region of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species several thousand years ago. These early farmers in what is now Peru, Ecuador, and northern Chile selected plants for fruit size, color, and reliability within diverse climates. From there, tomatoes spread north through Indigenous trade networks into Mesoamerica, where the Nahua and Maya further cultivated and named them. Within the milpa system—a rotation of maize, beans, and squash—tomatoes were an integral component, adding nutritional diversity and functioning as part of a balanced agroecological system.
By the 16th century, the tomato was already a well-established food crop in Indigenous agriculture when Europeans encountered it. Following colonization, it was carried across the Atlantic, and after centuries of cultivation and adaptation, reintroduced to North America through global trade and seed exchange.
In the United States, serious tomato breeding began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries as growers sought improved productivity and resistance to disease. By the mid-1900s, university and private breeders focused on varieties suitable for commercial production and home gardens in humid regions.
The Ace 55 Tomato was developed in California in the 1950s by plant breeder Dr. M.C. Pybas. It was created to meet the need for a tomato with thicker skin, uniform fruiting, and lower acidity, making it suitable for canning and fresh market use. The improved strain, Ace 55 VF, added resistance to Verticillium wilt (V) and Fusarium wilt (F)—two of the most destructive soil-borne fungal diseases in tomatoes.
Ace 55 VF became popular with both home gardeners and small market growers for its reliability, consistent yields, and clean fruit set. While modern hybrids later replaced many open-pollinated types in commercial production, Ace 55 VF remained a preferred choice for those who value stability, ease of growth, and predictable results under a wide range of soil and climate conditions.
Its continued use reflects a practical lineage of breeding: a variety developed during a period of agricultural transition, when disease resistance and field performance became essential to maintain productive local food systems.
The tomato’s story begins in the Andean region of South America, where Indigenous peoples first domesticated wild Solanum species several thousand years ago. These early farmers in what is now Peru, Ecuador, and northern Chile selected plants for fruit size, color, and reliability within diverse climates. From there, tomatoes spread north through Indigenous trade networks into Mesoamerica, where the Nahua and Maya further cultivated and named them. Within the milpa system—a rotation of maize, beans, and squash—tomatoes were an integral component, adding nutritional diversity and functioning as part of a balanced agroecological system.
By the 16th century, the tomato was already a well-established food crop in Indigenous agriculture when Europeans encountered it. Following colonization, it was carried across the Atlantic, and after centuries of cultivation and adaptation, reintroduced to North America through global trade and seed exchange.
In the United States, serious tomato breeding began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries as growers sought improved productivity and resistance to disease. By the mid-1900s, university and private breeders focused on varieties suitable for commercial production and home gardens in humid regions.
The Ace 55 Tomato was developed in California in the 1950s by plant breeder Dr. M.C. Pybas. It was created to meet the need for a tomato with thicker skin, uniform fruiting, and lower acidity, making it suitable for canning and fresh market use. The improved strain, Ace 55 VF, added resistance to Verticillium wilt (V) and Fusarium wilt (F)—two of the most destructive soil-borne fungal diseases in tomatoes.
Ace 55 VF became popular with both home gardeners and small market growers for its reliability, consistent yields, and clean fruit set. While modern hybrids later replaced many open-pollinated types in commercial production, Ace 55 VF remained a preferred choice for those who value stability, ease of growth, and predictable results under a wide range of soil and climate conditions.
Its continued use reflects a practical lineage of breeding: a variety developed during a period of agricultural transition, when disease resistance and field performance became essential to maintain productive local food systems.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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