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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Bonny Best Standard
Old-time favorite for canning with firm, uniform red fruits.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM15
1 review
Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
The Bonny Best Tomato is a classic early 20th-century heirloom known for its dependable yields, rich red color, and balanced flavor. Reaching maturity in 70–75 days, this indeterminate variety produces medium-sized, smooth, round fruits perfect for both fresh slicing and canning.
Bonny Best’s flavor is bright, full-bodied, and slightly tangy, making it a favorite among gardeners for juice, sauces, and salads. Its uniform size and firm texture allow for clean slicing and minimal waste in the kitchen.
Vines are robust and consistent producers, requiring staking or caging for best performance. Grow in full sun and loamy, well-drained soil for peak results. Introduced in the early 1900s, Bonny Best remains a reliable workhorse tomato, prized by homesteaders and commercial growers alike for over a century.
$200 USD
$300
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
30 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Stake
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Bonny Best Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting slightly during dry or heavy fruiting periods.
Water deeply and evenly to encourage strong root development and reduce cracking in this classic canning tomato.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent soil-level watering while keeping foliage dry to minimize blight.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once the soil warms to maintain steady moisture and prevent rapid evaporation.
Tip: Bonny Best’s uniform fruiting and smooth skins depend on consistent soil moisture—avoid letting the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the topsoil to build a nutrient-rich foundation.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during early vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to encourage fruiting and deepen flavor.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract monthly to strengthen fruit walls and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen causes excessive leaf growth and delays ripening.
Tip: Moderate feeding keeps plants productive and maintains Bonny Best’s reliable acidity for sauces and canning.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to reduce nutrient competition and pest habitat.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) to stabilize soil temperature, suppress weeds, and improve soil structure.
Weed gently to avoid disturbing shallow roots near the soil surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for best flavor and color development.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (>95°F / 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit scald.
Maintain wide spacing to allow airflow and reduce humidity-related fungal diseases.
Tip: Even light exposure ensures Bonny Best’s consistent red color and prevents blotchy ripening.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate slicing/canning type, Bonny Best benefits from sturdy staking, trellising, or caging.
Train vines vertically for easy harvesting and improved airflow.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and early blight risk.
Tip: Proper support prevents fruit from resting on the ground, reducing pest contact and preserving uniform ripening.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial predators: Interplant with small-flowered herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps that feed on aphids and whiteflies.
Encourage pollination: Grow flowering plants such as calendula, cosmos, or native asters nearby to support pollinator populations.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens for at least 2–3 years to break disease cycles. Avoid planting after other solanaceous crops like peppers, eggplants, or potatoes.
Soil management: Maintain organic mulch or off-season cover crops to enhance soil biodiversity and suppress pathogens.
Tip: Biodiverse plantings and rotation cycles form the foundation of evidence-based Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 20–25 gallons) with cage or trellis support.
Use high-quality organic potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for drainage and aeration.
Monitor moisture daily—container plants dry quickly under heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer to sustain consistent fruiting.
Tip: Mulching the container soil reduces evaporation and maintains the steady moisture Bonny Best needs for smooth, crack-free fruits.
Season Extension
Use row covers or tunnels early in the season to protect young plants and retain warmth.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler climates.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to redirect energy into ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Bonny Best fruits store and ripen evenly off the vine, maintaining their classic bright flavor for canning or fresh eating.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting slightly during dry or heavy fruiting periods.
Water deeply and evenly to encourage strong root development and reduce cracking in this classic canning tomato.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent soil-level watering while keeping foliage dry to minimize blight.
Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day.
Mulch 2–3 inches deep with straw, shredded leaves, or compost once the soil warms to maintain steady moisture and prevent rapid evaporation.
Tip: Bonny Best’s uniform fruiting and smooth skins depend on consistent soil moisture—avoid letting the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizing
Before planting, incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure into the topsoil to build a nutrient-rich foundation.
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) during early vegetative growth.
Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (5-10-10) to encourage fruiting and deepen flavor.
Supplement with calcium or kelp extract monthly to strengthen fruit walls and prevent blossom end rot.
Avoid overfertilization—too much nitrogen causes excessive leaf growth and delays ripening.
Tip: Moderate feeding keeps plants productive and maintains Bonny Best’s reliable acidity for sauces and canning.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep planting beds weed-free to reduce nutrient competition and pest habitat.
Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (straw, compost, or shredded leaves) to stabilize soil temperature, suppress weeds, and improve soil structure.
Weed gently to avoid disturbing shallow roots near the soil surface.
Sun & Heat Management
Provide 6–8 hours of full sunlight daily for best flavor and color development.
Ideal air temperature range: 75–90°F (24–32°C).
In extreme heat (>95°F / 35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to protect blossoms and reduce fruit scald.
Maintain wide spacing to allow airflow and reduce humidity-related fungal diseases.
Tip: Even light exposure ensures Bonny Best’s consistent red color and prevents blotchy ripening.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–30 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart.
As an indeterminate slicing/canning type, Bonny Best benefits from sturdy staking, trellising, or caging.
Train vines vertically for easy harvesting and improved airflow.
Remove lower leaves below the first flower cluster to minimize soil splash and early blight risk.
Tip: Proper support prevents fruit from resting on the ground, reducing pest contact and preserving uniform ripening.
Ecological Interplanting (Science-Based Companion Strategy)
Attract beneficial predators: Interplant with small-flowered herbs such as dill, coriander, or sweet alyssum to attract lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps that feed on aphids and whiteflies.
Encourage pollination: Grow flowering plants such as calendula, cosmos, or native asters nearby to support pollinator populations.
Crop rotation: Rotate tomatoes with legumes, grains, or leafy greens for at least 2–3 years to break disease cycles. Avoid planting after other solanaceous crops like peppers, eggplants, or potatoes.
Soil management: Maintain organic mulch or off-season cover crops to enhance soil biodiversity and suppress pathogens.
Tip: Biodiverse plantings and rotation cycles form the foundation of evidence-based Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
Container Growing
Grow in large containers (minimum 20–25 gallons) with cage or trellis support.
Use high-quality organic potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for drainage and aeration.
Monitor moisture daily—container plants dry quickly under heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with compost tea or diluted organic tomato fertilizer to sustain consistent fruiting.
Tip: Mulching the container soil reduces evaporation and maintains the steady moisture Bonny Best needs for smooth, crack-free fruits.
Season Extension
Use row covers or tunnels early in the season to protect young plants and retain warmth.
Preheat soil with black plastic mulch before transplanting in cooler climates.
As frost nears, remove new blossoms about 4 weeks before frost to redirect energy into ripening existing fruit.
Harvest nearly ripe fruits before frost—they’ll continue ripening indoors at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Tip: Bonny Best fruits store and ripen evenly off the vine, maintaining their classic bright flavor for canning or fresh eating.
Additional Tips — Bonny Best Standard Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach a uniform, vibrant red tone and the skin takes on a smooth, slightly glossy sheen. Mature fruits typically weigh 6–8 ounces, with a firm, round shape and faint ribbing at the shoulders.
Use pruning shears to detach fruits cleanly, leaving a short section of stem attached to prevent tearing. Harvest every two to three days during ripening—Bonny Best tends to set fruit continuously once established.
Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation, as water uptake can cause cracking or diluted flavor. Fruits picked just before full ripeness will continue to color evenly indoors while maintaining firmness and bright taste.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Bonny Best is a true classic—bright, balanced, and full-bodied. It embodies the quintessential “garden tomato” flavor that defined early 20th-century canning and table varieties: lively acidity paired with gentle sweetness and rich undertones.
Its meaty flesh and medium-thick skin hold up well for slicing, sandwiches, and fresh salads. In the kitchen, it excels in sauces and preserves due to its low moisture content and deep red pigment.
Roasting intensifies its tang and sweetness, producing an aromatic, old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of the early American homestead garden. Bonny Best remains a favorite among growers seeking dependable yield and traditional taste.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, ventilated space. Avoid refrigeration, which dulls its bright flavor and texture.
Arrange fruits in a single layer on padded or paper-lined trays to prevent bruising. Under ideal conditions, Bonny Best maintains excellent eating quality for 5–7 days.
For market or storage, harvest at the 80–90% color stage—firm and nearly red. Fruits will complete ripening naturally off the vine without loss of quality.
Pruning & Support:
As a productive indeterminate, Bonny Best benefits from strong staking or caging to support heavy trusses and keep fruit off the soil. Provide 6–7 ft supports and tie vines regularly with soft twine.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to minimize soil splash and disease spread. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to promote airflow and balanced fruit production.
Moderate pruning ensures good light penetration while retaining enough foliage to shade developing fruit. Over-pruning may expose fruit to sunscald.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal flavor and color development. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade preserves firmness and prevents cracking.
Water deeply and evenly once or twice per week, maintaining consistent soil moisture. Irregular watering can result in cracking or blossom-end rot.
Apply a mulch layer of straw, shredded leaves, or compost after the soil warms to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and stabilize temperature. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal to reduce foliar wetness.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from robust, healthy plants producing uniform, round red fruit with balanced flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to remove the gelatinous seed coat. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, ventilated space.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Bonny Best seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Bonny Best thrives in fertile, well-drained loam with balanced organic matter. Its open flowers attract bumblebees and other native pollinators, which improve fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with companion herbs such as basil, thyme, or marigold to attract beneficial insects and deter aphids. Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or leafy crops to restore soil nutrients and disrupt disease cycles.
Avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, which can share pathogens. Maintain 30 inches between plants for optimal airflow and sunlight exposure.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Bonny Best’s classic red flesh and bright tang make it a versatile kitchen staple. Use fresh in sandwiches, chopped salads, or pico de gallo for a burst of old-fashioned tomato flavor.
Cook into sauces or soups to appreciate its traditional canning heritage—it thickens beautifully without excessive reduction. When roasted, the balanced acidity pairs well with herbs, garlic, and olive oil.
In market or display arrangements, its uniform red color and glossy skin embody the visual ideal of the “true tomato”—a bridge between heirloom character and everyday reliability.
Harvesting:
Harvest when fruits reach a uniform, vibrant red tone and the skin takes on a smooth, slightly glossy sheen. Mature fruits typically weigh 6–8 ounces, with a firm, round shape and faint ribbing at the shoulders.
Use pruning shears to detach fruits cleanly, leaving a short section of stem attached to prevent tearing. Harvest every two to three days during ripening—Bonny Best tends to set fruit continuously once established.
Avoid harvesting immediately after rainfall or irrigation, as water uptake can cause cracking or diluted flavor. Fruits picked just before full ripeness will continue to color evenly indoors while maintaining firmness and bright taste.
Flavor & Culinary Use:
Bonny Best is a true classic—bright, balanced, and full-bodied. It embodies the quintessential “garden tomato” flavor that defined early 20th-century canning and table varieties: lively acidity paired with gentle sweetness and rich undertones.
Its meaty flesh and medium-thick skin hold up well for slicing, sandwiches, and fresh salads. In the kitchen, it excels in sauces and preserves due to its low moisture content and deep red pigment.
Roasting intensifies its tang and sweetness, producing an aromatic, old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of the early American homestead garden. Bonny Best remains a favorite among growers seeking dependable yield and traditional taste.
Handling & Storage:
Store fruits at 55–70 °F (13–21 °C) in a shaded, ventilated space. Avoid refrigeration, which dulls its bright flavor and texture.
Arrange fruits in a single layer on padded or paper-lined trays to prevent bruising. Under ideal conditions, Bonny Best maintains excellent eating quality for 5–7 days.
For market or storage, harvest at the 80–90% color stage—firm and nearly red. Fruits will complete ripening naturally off the vine without loss of quality.
Pruning & Support:
As a productive indeterminate, Bonny Best benefits from strong staking or caging to support heavy trusses and keep fruit off the soil. Provide 6–7 ft supports and tie vines regularly with soft twine.
Remove lower leaves after establishment to minimize soil splash and disease spread. Pinch suckers below the first flower cluster to promote airflow and balanced fruit production.
Moderate pruning ensures good light penetration while retaining enough foliage to shade developing fruit. Over-pruning may expose fruit to sunscald.
Sun & Water Tips:
Provide 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal flavor and color development. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade preserves firmness and prevents cracking.
Water deeply and evenly once or twice per week, maintaining consistent soil moisture. Irregular watering can result in cracking or blossom-end rot.
Apply a mulch layer of straw, shredded leaves, or compost after the soil warms to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and stabilize temperature. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal to reduce foliar wetness.
Seed Saving:
Select seeds from robust, healthy plants producing uniform, round red fruit with balanced flavor. Allow chosen fruits to ripen fully on the vine for mature seed development.
Scoop seeds and pulp into a small jar with a little water and ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily to remove the gelatinous seed coat. Rinse thoroughly, then spread seeds on a non-stick surface or mesh to dry for 7–10 days in a shaded, ventilated space.
Store fully dried seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location. Properly cured Bonny Best seeds remain viable for 4–6 years. Being open-pollinated, they will breed true if isolated by 25–50 feet from other tomato varieties.
Ecological & Pollinator Notes:
Bonny Best thrives in fertile, well-drained loam with balanced organic matter. Its open flowers attract bumblebees and other native pollinators, which improve fruit set through vibration pollination.
Interplant with companion herbs such as basil, thyme, or marigold to attract beneficial insects and deter aphids. Rotate tomato plantings every two to three years with legumes or leafy crops to restore soil nutrients and disrupt disease cycles.
Avoid planting near potatoes or peppers, which can share pathogens. Maintain 30 inches between plants for optimal airflow and sunlight exposure.
Culinary Pairings & Presentation Tips:
Bonny Best’s classic red flesh and bright tang make it a versatile kitchen staple. Use fresh in sandwiches, chopped salads, or pico de gallo for a burst of old-fashioned tomato flavor.
Cook into sauces or soups to appreciate its traditional canning heritage—it thickens beautifully without excessive reduction. When roasted, the balanced acidity pairs well with herbs, garlic, and olive oil.
In market or display arrangements, its uniform red color and glossy skin embody the visual ideal of the “true tomato”—a bridge between heirloom character and everyday reliability.
Common Pests & Problems — 'Bonny Best' Standard (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, severe foliage loss and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants in early morning and evening hours when hornworms are active. Handpick and destroy them promptly. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to keep populations in check. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the afternoon, ensuring thorough coverage of both sides of the leaves. Remove nearby weeds and volunteer nightshades that host hornworm moths.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and reduced growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days until populations decline. Encourage beneficial insects such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies through companion planting with dill, fennel, and yarrow. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that promote aphid-prone tender growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew accumulation, and black sooty mold)
Controls: Place yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during outbreaks. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for biological suppression. Prune lower leaves to improve airflow and keep nearby weeds controlled.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed foliage)
Controls: Maintain consistent watering and humidity to discourage mites. Hose off plants to remove mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until the infestation subsides. Avoid drought stress and dusty conditions that promote outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric leaf spots, lower leaf dieback, and stem lesions)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years and avoid planting near other Solanaceae. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid weather. Water at soil level and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Remove infected leaves promptly and dispose of them away from the garden.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and one-sided leaf drop)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain consistent watering and proper drainage. Remove infected plants immediately and disinfect tools thoroughly.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small grayish spots, premature leaf loss)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash and apply copper fungicide preventively during humid periods. Prune lower leaves for airflow and remove infected foliage immediately. Avoid overhead watering and crowded plantings.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken spots at fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and mulch to conserve water. Test soil for calcium levels and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, which reduces calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or sudden rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Maintain steady irrigation and mulch deeply to stabilize soil moisture. Avoid drought followed by sudden watering. Harvest ripe fruit promptly after rain to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches from excessive sun exposure)
Controls: Maintain adequate foliage cover for shading. Avoid over-pruning. Provide 20–30% shade during heatwaves to protect fruit.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and fungal symptoms.
Rotate tomato crops annually to prevent disease carryover.
Maintain mulch to conserve soil moisture and reduce soil splash.
Water deeply and evenly at soil level, avoiding wet foliage.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping upper canopy for shade.
Encourage beneficial insects through diverse companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage immediately and disinfect tools and supports.
Insects & Mites
Tomato Hornworms (large green caterpillars, severe foliage loss and fruit chewing)
Controls: Inspect plants in early morning and evening hours when hornworms are active. Handpick and destroy them promptly. Encourage parasitic wasps (Cotesia congregata) to keep populations in check. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) late in the afternoon, ensuring thorough coverage of both sides of the leaves. Remove nearby weeds and volunteer nightshades that host hornworm moths.
Aphids (leaf curling, honeydew, and reduced growth)
Controls: Use yellow sticky traps for early detection. Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap every 5–7 days until populations decline. Encourage beneficial insects such as lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies through companion planting with dill, fennel, and yarrow. Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that promote aphid-prone tender growth.
Whiteflies (leaf yellowing, honeydew accumulation, and black sooty mold)
Controls: Place yellow sticky traps near plants to capture adults. Spray neem oil or horticultural soap weekly during outbreaks. Introduce Encarsia formosa wasps for biological suppression. Prune lower leaves to improve airflow and keep nearby weeds controlled.
Spider Mites (fine webbing, stippling, and bronzed foliage)
Controls: Maintain consistent watering and humidity to discourage mites. Hose off plants to remove mites and dust. Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap weekly until the infestation subsides. Avoid drought stress and dusty conditions that promote outbreaks.
Diseases
Early Blight (Alternaria solani) (dark concentric leaf spots, lower leaf dieback, and stem lesions)
Controls: Rotate tomato crops every 2–3 years and avoid planting near other Solanaceae. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively during humid weather. Water at soil level and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. Remove infected leaves promptly and dispose of them away from the garden.
Fusarium Wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) (yellowing, wilting, and one-sided leaf drop)
Controls: Solarize soil before planting to reduce fungal spores. Grow resistant varieties when possible. Maintain consistent watering and proper drainage. Remove infected plants immediately and disinfect tools thoroughly.
Septoria Leaf Spot (Septoria lycopersici) (numerous small grayish spots, premature leaf loss)
Controls: Maintain mulch to prevent soil splash and apply copper fungicide preventively during humid periods. Prune lower leaves for airflow and remove infected foliage immediately. Avoid overhead watering and crowded plantings.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Blossom End Rot (calcium deficiency, dark sunken spots at fruit ends)
Controls: Maintain consistent soil moisture and mulch to conserve water. Test soil for calcium levels and amend with lime or gypsum if needed. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, which reduces calcium uptake.
Cracking (caused by irregular watering or sudden rainfall during ripening)
Controls: Maintain steady irrigation and mulch deeply to stabilize soil moisture. Avoid drought followed by sudden watering. Harvest ripe fruit promptly after rain to prevent splitting.
Sunscald (white or leathery patches from excessive sun exposure)
Controls: Maintain adequate foliage cover for shading. Avoid over-pruning. Provide 20–30% shade during heatwaves to protect fruit.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Inspect plants twice weekly for hornworms, aphids, and fungal symptoms.
Rotate tomato crops annually to prevent disease carryover.
Maintain mulch to conserve soil moisture and reduce soil splash.
Water deeply and evenly at soil level, avoiding wet foliage.
Prune lower leaves for airflow while keeping upper canopy for shade.
Encourage beneficial insects through diverse companion planting.
Remove diseased foliage immediately and disinfect tools and supports.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) — Bonny Best Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What type of tomato is Bonny Best?
Bonny Best is an indeterminate, open-pollinated slicing tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its uniform 6–8 oz scarlet-red fruits and classic old-fashioned balance of sweetness and tang. It’s one of the earliest standard commercial canning and slicing tomatoes of the 20th century and remains a favorite among home growers for its dependable performance, firm texture, and excellent flavor.
Q: How long does Bonny Best take to mature?
Expect 75–80 days from transplant to harvest. Fruits ripen steadily throughout the season, making it an excellent choice for both fresh eating and canning.
Q: How long does it take for Bonny Best seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C). Keep soil evenly moist until seedlings emerge.
Q: Does Bonny Best need special soil conditions?
Bonny Best thrives in fertile, well-draining loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Amend with compost or organic matter for the best flavor and production. Consistent moisture helps prevent cracking and blossom-end rot.
Q: What spacing do Bonny Best tomatoes need?
Space 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The vines are vigorous but manageable with light pruning and staking.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Bonny Best is self-pollinating. However, natural airflow and insect activity can slightly improve yields.
Q: Can I grow Bonny Best in containers?
Yes. Use a container of at least 10–15 gallons, with rich potting soil and sturdy support for the vines. Water daily during hot weather.
Q: How tall do Bonny Best plants get?
Plants typically grow 5–6 feet tall with regular staking. Moderate pruning maintains good airflow and fruit access.
Q: Why are my Bonny Best tomatoes cracking?
Cracking happens from sudden water intake after dry conditions. Maintain consistent watering and mulch around the base to regulate soil moisture.
Q: How should I harvest Bonny Best tomatoes?
Pick when the fruits are a vibrant red and slightly soft to the touch. Harvesting regularly encourages continued production.
Q: How do I store Bonny Best tomatoes after harvest?
Keep fruits at room temperature (55–70 °F / 13–21 °C) in a single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe.
Q: Are Bonny Best tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. They are prized for canning, sauces, and fresh slicing. Their firm flesh holds up well in cooking and makes excellent juice and paste.
Q: Are Bonny Best tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Bonny Best is a true heirloom, introduced in the early 1900s and cherished by generations for its reliable yields and rich, balanced flavor.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit size can result from high heat, inconsistent watering, or poor soil fertility. Regular feeding and consistent moisture promote full-size fruits.
Q: Can I save seeds from Bonny Best?
Yes. It’s open-pollinated, so saved seeds will remain true to type. Select ripe, healthy fruits, ferment seeds for 2–3 days, rinse, and dry thoroughly before storing.
Q: What type of tomato is Bonny Best?
Bonny Best is an indeterminate, open-pollinated slicing tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) known for its uniform 6–8 oz scarlet-red fruits and classic old-fashioned balance of sweetness and tang. It’s one of the earliest standard commercial canning and slicing tomatoes of the 20th century and remains a favorite among home growers for its dependable performance, firm texture, and excellent flavor.
Q: How long does Bonny Best take to mature?
Expect 75–80 days from transplant to harvest. Fruits ripen steadily throughout the season, making it an excellent choice for both fresh eating and canning.
Q: How long does it take for Bonny Best seeds to germinate?
Seeds germinate within 5–10 days at 75–90 °F (24–32 °C). Keep soil evenly moist until seedlings emerge.
Q: Does Bonny Best need special soil conditions?
Bonny Best thrives in fertile, well-draining loam with a pH of 6.0–6.8. Amend with compost or organic matter for the best flavor and production. Consistent moisture helps prevent cracking and blossom-end rot.
Q: What spacing do Bonny Best tomatoes need?
Space 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. The vines are vigorous but manageable with light pruning and staking.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Bonny Best is self-pollinating. However, natural airflow and insect activity can slightly improve yields.
Q: Can I grow Bonny Best in containers?
Yes. Use a container of at least 10–15 gallons, with rich potting soil and sturdy support for the vines. Water daily during hot weather.
Q: How tall do Bonny Best plants get?
Plants typically grow 5–6 feet tall with regular staking. Moderate pruning maintains good airflow and fruit access.
Q: Why are my Bonny Best tomatoes cracking?
Cracking happens from sudden water intake after dry conditions. Maintain consistent watering and mulch around the base to regulate soil moisture.
Q: How should I harvest Bonny Best tomatoes?
Pick when the fruits are a vibrant red and slightly soft to the touch. Harvesting regularly encourages continued production.
Q: How do I store Bonny Best tomatoes after harvest?
Keep fruits at room temperature (55–70 °F / 13–21 °C) in a single layer, stem side down. Avoid refrigeration unless overripe.
Q: Are Bonny Best tomatoes good for cooking?
Yes. They are prized for canning, sauces, and fresh slicing. Their firm flesh holds up well in cooking and makes excellent juice and paste.
Q: Are Bonny Best tomatoes heirloom?
Yes. Bonny Best is a true heirloom, introduced in the early 1900s and cherished by generations for its reliable yields and rich, balanced flavor.
Q: Why are my fruits smaller than expected?
Smaller fruit size can result from high heat, inconsistent watering, or poor soil fertility. Regular feeding and consistent moisture promote full-size fruits.
Q: Can I save seeds from Bonny Best?
Yes. It’s open-pollinated, so saved seeds will remain true to type. Select ripe, healthy fruits, ferment seeds for 2–3 days, rinse, and dry thoroughly before storing.
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History & Culture — Bonny Best Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Bonny Best Tomato is a historic American heirloom introduced in the early 1900s and once considered the standard for canning and market sales. It was developed and distributed by the Bonny Brothers Seed Company of Rochester, New York, before being adopted by the USDA and other seed firms for its uniformity, firm texture, and excellent slicing quality. Known for its medium-sized, bright red fruits, Bonny Best became a favorite among home gardeners and commercial growers alike through the 1920s and 1930s, prized for its reliability and balanced flavor.
As hybrid tomatoes began to dominate the market in the mid-20th century, Bonny Best held its ground among those who valued true, open-pollinated heirlooms. Its continued cultivation reflects both nostalgia and practicality — a nod to the era when American farmers and seed savers maintained deep personal relationships with their crops.
In today’s gardens, the Bonny Best Tomato remains a symbol of enduring quality and tradition. Each fruit represents a century of careful selection and preservation — a continuation of the long legacy that began thousands of years ago with the Indigenous seedkeepers who first brought the tomato from the wild into cultivation.
Tomatoes are one of the greatest agricultural gifts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas. Long before European contact, Indigenous farmers of western South America and Mesoamerica had already domesticated wild Solanum species, transforming them from small, sour berries into richly flavored, productive crops. Grown in raised fields and terraced gardens, tomatoes became part of a vibrant food system alongside maize, beans, and chili peppers — a living agricultural science that continues among Indigenous growers today.
When tomato seeds traveled across the Atlantic in the 1500s, they carried that legacy with them. European growers, first skeptical, gradually embraced the fruit, refining new forms in Italy, France, and Spain. Yet every variety, from the smallest cherry to the densest paste tomato, still descends from those early Indigenous selections.
The Bonny Best Tomato is a historic American heirloom introduced in the early 1900s and once considered the standard for canning and market sales. It was developed and distributed by the Bonny Brothers Seed Company of Rochester, New York, before being adopted by the USDA and other seed firms for its uniformity, firm texture, and excellent slicing quality. Known for its medium-sized, bright red fruits, Bonny Best became a favorite among home gardeners and commercial growers alike through the 1920s and 1930s, prized for its reliability and balanced flavor.
As hybrid tomatoes began to dominate the market in the mid-20th century, Bonny Best held its ground among those who valued true, open-pollinated heirlooms. Its continued cultivation reflects both nostalgia and practicality — a nod to the era when American farmers and seed savers maintained deep personal relationships with their crops.
In today’s gardens, the Bonny Best Tomato remains a symbol of enduring quality and tradition. Each fruit represents a century of careful selection and preservation — a continuation of the long legacy that began thousands of years ago with the Indigenous seedkeepers who first brought the tomato from the wild into cultivation.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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