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Tomato Seeds - Indeterminate - Amish Paste
Traditional Amish heirloom famous for thick, meaty flesh and rich flavor—ideal for sauces, canning, and fresh use.
Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers | SKU:
TM2
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Sustainability features
Details
- Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
- Seed packets printed on forestry-certified paper (FSC, SFI, Rainforest Alliance)
- Curbside-recyclable mailers; SFI-certified kraft paper
- 1% for the Planet partner — supports environmental nonprofits
- Compact, energy-efficient facility with lean, low-waste operations
1-Year Warranty
Details
- Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
- Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
Non-GMO / BE Policy
Details
We do not sell seeds that are GMO or BE.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
- Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
- Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
- Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—
seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
A cherished heirloom traced to the Amish communities of Wisconsin and Pennsylvania, the Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is one of the most respected canning and sauce tomatoes ever developed. Known for its rich, balanced flavor and meaty texture, it bridges the qualities of a Roma and a beefsteak — dense, full-bodied, and low in water content yet sweet enough for fresh slicing.
Fruits are large for a paste type, averaging 8–12 ounces, with a deep red color, pointed or slightly heart-shaped ends, and few seeds. Flesh is thick and flavorful, producing smooth sauces and hearty pastes without excessive cooking time.
Plants are indeterminate, vigorous, and long-producing, continuing to set fruit throughout the summer. Maturity occurs in about 80–85 days from transplant. The variety thrives in warm, sunny conditions and benefits from staking or trellising for best airflow and yield.
Equally prized for fresh eating, roasting, juicing, and preserving, the Amish Paste remains a staple among traditional growers and homesteaders for its reliability, taste, and heritage value.
A genuine heirloom maintained through generations of Amish seedkeepers, this tomato reflects a legacy of practical agriculture — resilient, productive, and perfectly suited for the home garden or market row.
$200 USD
$300
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Minimum Seed Count
25
Soil pH
6.0–6.5
Soil Type
Loamy
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Spacing
36 in
Row Spacing
36 in
Support
Trellis
Ideal Soil Temp
70–85°F
Seed Depth
1/4 in
Sprouts in
7-14 Day
Life Cycle
Annual
Growth Habit
Indeterminate
Frost Hardy
Tender
Scientific Name
Solanum lycopersicum
Maturity
80-89 Days
(from transplant)
Grow Location
Container, Garden Plot, Raised Bed, Vertical Gardening, Greenhouse, Community Garden
Non-GMO Safe Seed Pledge
How to Sow and Plant Tomatoes
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
1. Choosing the Right Location
Light Requirements:
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants that require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, though 8–10 hours is ideal for strong fruit set and flavor. Choose a site with full southern exposure whenever possible. Avoid shaded areas near trees, fences, or tall crops. Plants grown in partial sun may produce leggy growth and fewer fruits.
Soil Requirements:
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. The optimal pH range is 6.0–6.8, though they tolerate slightly acidic conditions. Prepare beds ahead of time by incorporating aged compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to improve structure, fertility, and microbial activity.
Avoid compacted or waterlogged soil, which restricts root growth.
Sandy soils warm faster and suit early crops; heavier soils retain moisture better in dry climates.
Rotate planting sites annually to prevent nutrient depletion and disease buildup.
Soil Preparation Tip:
Before sowing or transplanting, loosen the top 8–12 inches of soil and blend in 2–3 inches of organic compost. If needed, amend with bone meal for phosphorus and greensand or kelp meal for potassium to promote strong roots and flowering.
2. Starting Seeds Indoors
Timing:
Sow tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the final expected frost date. Adjust timing to your region so that transplants are ready to go outside once the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (16°C) and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).
Containers and Medium:
Use clean trays or small pots filled with a sterile, fine-textured seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily and harbors pathogens.
Sowing Depth:
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, cover lightly, and mist gently to settle the soil. Maintain even moisture—damp but never soggy.
Germination Conditions:
Tomato seeds germinate best at 75–85°F (24–29°C). Use a heat mat if needed. Germination typically occurs within 5–10 days, though some heirloom varieties may take up to two weeks.
Light After Germination:
Once sprouts appear, move trays to a bright, warm location or under full-spectrum grow lights. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth. Keep lights about 2–3 inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow.
3. Transplanting Seedlings
Thinning:
Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, thin weaker ones to ensure each has ample light and airflow. Handle gently by the leaves, not the stems.
Potting Up:
When seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall, transplant them into larger pots (3–4 inches wide). Bury the stems up to the first true leaves—tomatoes form new roots along buried stems, creating stronger plants.
Hardening Off:
7–10 days before transplanting outdoors, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor conditions:
Start with 1–2 hours of filtered sun the first day.
Increase exposure each day, reducing watering slightly to toughen the stems.
Avoid windy or cold days during hardening.
4. Planting Outdoors
Timing:
Transplant tomatoes after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can stunt root growth. Early planting can be improved by warming the soil with black plastic or row covers two weeks prior to transplanting.
Planting Depth:
Plant deeply—bury the stem up to the first or second set of true leaves. This encourages a robust root system. In heavy clay soil, plant slightly shallower and mound soil around the base.
Spacing:
Determinate (bush) types: 18–24 inches apart
Indeterminate (vining) types: 24–36 inches apart
Rows: Space rows 30–42 inches apart for good airflow and access.
Proper spacing reduces humidity around leaves, helping prevent fungal disease and promoting even ripening.
Watering at Planting:
Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle soil around the roots. Use lukewarm, non-chlorinated water. Avoid overhead watering—direct it at the base to minimize leaf wetness and disease spread.
5. Watering and Moisture Management
Initial Watering:
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged during germination and early growth. Light, frequent watering helps young roots establish.
Ongoing Watering:
Once established, switch to deep, infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow downward. Aim for about 1–1.5 inches of water per week, adjusting for weather and soil type. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Organic Tip:
Use rainwater whenever possible—its natural minerals and softness encourage better plant health compared to chlorinated tap water.
6. Temperature and Climate Conditions
Tomatoes favor warm conditions with daytime temperatures between 70–85°F (21–29°C) and nighttime temperatures above 55°F (13°C). Extended cold slows growth, while prolonged heat above 95°F (35°C) may reduce fruit set.
In hot climates, provide light afternoon shade using shade cloth or tall companion crops (basil, corn, or sunflowers). In cooler regions, use row covers or cloches to retain warmth during early growth. Maintain steady soil warmth for optimal root activity.
7. Fertility and Soil Feeding
Before planting, mix compost into the soil at a rate of about 1 part compost to 3 parts native soil. Tomatoes are moderate-to-heavy feeders but respond best to slow, balanced nutrition.
At planting time: mix a small handful of organic tomato fertilizer, bone meal, or worm castings into the hole.
Mid-season: side-dress with compost or dilute fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks.
Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage but few fruits.
8. Early Support and Spacing Care
Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting to avoid root disturbance later. Even determinate types benefit from light support to prevent fruit from touching the soil.
Maintain generous spacing to improve air circulation and light penetration—critical for disease prevention and even ripening.
9. Mulching and Moisture Control
After transplanting, apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or composted bark) around the base of each plant. Leave a small gap around the stem to prevent rot.
Mulch helps:
Retain soil moisture
Regulate temperature
Suppress weeds
Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves (reducing blight risk)
Refresh mulch as it decomposes throughout the season.
10. Organic Pest and Disease Prevention at Planting
Healthy soil and spacing are your best defense. Avoid synthetic chemicals—rely on prevention and natural balance.
Pests: Keep an eye out for aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or hand-picking to control populations early.
Disease Prevention:
Water at the base to avoid wet leaves.
Provide good air flow between plants.
Rotate crops yearly; avoid planting tomatoes after peppers, potatoes, or eggplants.
Use compost teas (aerated or non-aerated) as a soil drench to boost microbial health.
Companion plants like basil, marigold, garlic, and borage help deter pests naturally while enhancing pollination and flavor.Choosing the Right Location:
Light Requirements: Tomato - Yellow Pear thrives in full sun. Select a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil Requirements: Prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Although adaptable to various soil types, it grows best in loamy soil enriched with organic matter.
Planting Seeds:
Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Sowing Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in seed-starting mix. Cover lightly with soil and water gently.
Spacing: Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart when transplanting to allow adequate space for growth. Rows should be spaced about 24-36 inches apart.
Watering:
Initial Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged until the seeds germinate, which typically takes 7-14 days.
Ongoing Watering: Once established, water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Water the plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
Temperature and Climate:
Preferred Temperature: Tomato - Yellow Pear grows best in warm temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures but may require more frequent watering during extreme heat.
Fertilization:
Feeding: Incorporate organic matter such as compost into the soil before planting. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer at planting time and side-dress with compost or organic fertilizer mid-season.
Pruning and Thinning:
Thinning: Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding, which can hinder growth and reduce air circulation.
Pruning: Prune suckers (the small shoots that grow between the stem and branches) to promote larger fruit production. Stake or cage plants to support the vines and improve air circulation.
Mulching:
Mulch Application: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems to prevent rot.
Pest and Disease Management:
Common Pests: While tomatoes can attract pests such as aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies, using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control these pests if necessary.
Diseases: Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering to minimize the risk of mildew and other fungal issues. Crop rotation and proper spacing can also help reduce disease incidence.
How to Grow – Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and heat. Deep, consistent watering prevents blossom end rot, fruit cracking, and stress-induced leaf curl.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone, keeping foliage dry to reduce fungal disease pressure.
If overhead watering is necessary, do so early in the morning so leaves dry by evening.
Maintain even soil moisture—fluctuations cause irregular fruit growth. Once fruit set begins, water deeply and slightly less frequently to concentrate flavor without stressing plants.
Apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) around the base after soil warms to regulate temperature and retain moisture.
Fertilizing
Feed plants every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6 or 5-5-5) during vegetative growth.
Once flowers appear, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (3-5-7) to promote steady fruiting and minimize excessive leaf growth.
Incorporate bone meal or kelp meal at transplant to support root and flower formation.
Top-dress midseason with compost or worm castings for a slow, natural nutrient release.
Avoid overfeeding—too much nitrogen will delay ripening and reduce flavor concentration.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the soil surface weed-free to reduce pest habitats and competition for nutrients.
Once the soil warms, apply 2–3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and prevent soil-borne disease from splashing onto lower leaves.
When hand-weeding, loosen soil carefully around roots—tomatoes have shallow feeder roots that can be damaged easily.
In early spring, black plastic mulch or row cover fabric can help warm soil for faster early growth. Switch to organic mulch once summer heat increases.
Sun & Temperature Management
Amish Paste thrives in full sun (6–8+ hours daily).
Ideal daytime temperatures: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
Nighttime temperatures: 60–70°F (16–21°C)
During extreme heat above 90°F (32°C), flowers may drop. Use 30–40% shade cloth or interplant with taller crops to provide relief. Maintain open airflow to minimize humidity-related diseases.
Prune for ventilation but leave enough canopy to protect fruit from sunscald.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to allow airflow and ease of harvest.
Because Amish Paste is indeterminate, it requires staking, caging, or trellising. Use 6–8 ft stakes or strong tomato cages installed at transplant to prevent root disturbance later.
Train vines by removing lower suckers early in the season, but avoid over-pruning—Amish Paste performs best with a moderate canopy to balance fruit protection and airflow.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, parsley, onions, garlic, marigolds, carrots, and lettuce. These help repel aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies while attracting pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale), which can stunt tomato growth.
Interplant nasturtiums or dill to draw pests away from tomato foliage. Companion herbs like basil and oregano can improve growth and subtly enhance tomato flavor when planted nearby.
Container Growing
Amish Paste can be grown successfully in 15–20 gallon containers with sturdy cages or trellises.
Use a high-quality potting mix rich in compost and perlite for drainage.
Water regularly—containers dry faster than ground beds. Check moisture daily during peak heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with diluted organic liquid fertilizer or compost tea.
Shade container sides during high summer to prevent root overheating and premature blossom drop.
Season Extension
Start early with row covers or low tunnels to warm soil and protect seedlings from late frost.
At season’s end, use frost blankets or plastic covers to extend harvest until first frost.
Before frost, remove green fruits and ripen indoors at room temperature or use them for chutneys and preserves.
For longer growing seasons, prune new flowers in the final 3–4 weeks before expected frost—this helps redirect plant energy toward ripening existing fruit.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and heat. Deep, consistent watering prevents blossom end rot, fruit cracking, and stress-induced leaf curl.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone, keeping foliage dry to reduce fungal disease pressure.
If overhead watering is necessary, do so early in the morning so leaves dry by evening.
Maintain even soil moisture—fluctuations cause irregular fruit growth. Once fruit set begins, water deeply and slightly less frequently to concentrate flavor without stressing plants.
Apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost) around the base after soil warms to regulate temperature and retain moisture.
Fertilizing
Feed plants every 2–3 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6 or 5-5-5) during vegetative growth.
Once flowers appear, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (3-5-7) to promote steady fruiting and minimize excessive leaf growth.
Incorporate bone meal or kelp meal at transplant to support root and flower formation.
Top-dress midseason with compost or worm castings for a slow, natural nutrient release.
Avoid overfeeding—too much nitrogen will delay ripening and reduce flavor concentration.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep the soil surface weed-free to reduce pest habitats and competition for nutrients.
Once the soil warms, apply 2–3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and prevent soil-borne disease from splashing onto lower leaves.
When hand-weeding, loosen soil carefully around roots—tomatoes have shallow feeder roots that can be damaged easily.
In early spring, black plastic mulch or row cover fabric can help warm soil for faster early growth. Switch to organic mulch once summer heat increases.
Sun & Temperature Management
Amish Paste thrives in full sun (6–8+ hours daily).
Ideal daytime temperatures: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
Nighttime temperatures: 60–70°F (16–21°C)
During extreme heat above 90°F (32°C), flowers may drop. Use 30–40% shade cloth or interplant with taller crops to provide relief. Maintain open airflow to minimize humidity-related diseases.
Prune for ventilation but leave enough canopy to protect fruit from sunscald.
Spacing & Support
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart to allow airflow and ease of harvest.
Because Amish Paste is indeterminate, it requires staking, caging, or trellising. Use 6–8 ft stakes or strong tomato cages installed at transplant to prevent root disturbance later.
Train vines by removing lower suckers early in the season, but avoid over-pruning—Amish Paste performs best with a moderate canopy to balance fruit protection and airflow.
Companion Planting
Good Companions: Basil, parsley, onions, garlic, marigolds, carrots, and lettuce. These help repel aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies while attracting pollinators.
Avoid: Fennel and brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale), which can stunt tomato growth.
Interplant nasturtiums or dill to draw pests away from tomato foliage. Companion herbs like basil and oregano can improve growth and subtly enhance tomato flavor when planted nearby.
Container Growing
Amish Paste can be grown successfully in 15–20 gallon containers with sturdy cages or trellises.
Use a high-quality potting mix rich in compost and perlite for drainage.
Water regularly—containers dry faster than ground beds. Check moisture daily during peak heat.
Feed every 10–14 days with diluted organic liquid fertilizer or compost tea.
Shade container sides during high summer to prevent root overheating and premature blossom drop.
Season Extension
Start early with row covers or low tunnels to warm soil and protect seedlings from late frost.
At season’s end, use frost blankets or plastic covers to extend harvest until first frost.
Before frost, remove green fruits and ripen indoors at room temperature or use them for chutneys and preserves.
For longer growing seasons, prune new flowers in the final 3–4 weeks before expected frost—this helps redirect plant energy toward ripening existing fruit.
Additional Tips – Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest fruits when they are fully red and slightly soft to the touch, indicating peak ripeness and sugar content. Amish Paste tomatoes ripen gradually on indeterminate vines, allowing for multiple harvests throughout the season.
Technique:
Use pruning shears or scissors to snip fruit cleanly from the stem, leaving a short piece attached. Avoid pulling—this can tear branches or bruise fruit.
Frequency:
Check plants every 2–3 days once ripening begins. Regular picking encourages continuous fruiting and helps prevent overripe fruit from attracting pests.
Maturity Signs:
Full red color with consistent firmness and a subtle tomato aroma at the stem end. Fruit shoulders may remain slightly lighter in color; this is normal for the variety.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Sweet, balanced, and low-acid, with a meaty texture ideal for canning and sauces. Unlike Romas, Amish Paste retains juiciness and depth of flavor for both fresh eating and cooking.
Nutritional Content:
Rich in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene—a key antioxidant linked to heart and cellular health. The dense flesh provides a higher nutrient concentration per serving than water-rich slicing varieties.
Flavor Tip:
To enhance sweetness and flavor density, reduce watering slightly as fruits begin to ripen, without allowing stress or wilt.
Handling
Post-Harvest Care:
Handle fruits gently to avoid bruising. Do not stack more than two layers deep in harvest baskets.
Avoid washing until ready to eat or process—moisture shortens storage life.
Work Area Hygiene:
Sanitize knives, trays, and canning surfaces regularly with vinegar or mild bleach solution to reduce bacterial contamination during processing.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage:
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight until fully ripe. Once ripe, refrigerate only if necessary and use within 5 days.
Canning:
Amish Paste is a canner’s standard. Blanch and peel fruits before processing. Add lemon juice or citric acid per USDA guidelines to ensure safe acidity.
Freezing:
Core and quarter ripe fruits, then freeze in single layers before bagging. Excellent for sauces, soups, and slow cooking.
Drying:
Slice ¼ inch thick and dry at 120–125°F (49–52°C) until leathery but pliable. Store dried slices in airtight jars with desiccant packs.
Roasting:
Halve and roast cut-side up with olive oil, garlic, and herbs for concentrated flavor. Freeze or pack in oil for winter use.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Excellent in caprese salads, bruschetta, or fresh salsa where a mild, sweet flavor is desired.
Cooked:
Perfect for sauces, soups, stews, and pastes due to its thick texture and low water content.
Produces rich, smooth sauces with less cooking time than thinner tomatoes.
Pairings:
Pairs well with basil, oregano, rosemary, garlic, onions, and olive oil. Complements pasta, poultry, beans, and mild cheeses.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate; vines can reach 6–8 feet. Provide strong stakes, cages, or trellises.
Pruning:
Remove the lower leaves up to the first flower cluster to reduce soil splash and improve air circulation. Avoid over-pruning—Amish Paste benefits from partial canopy cover to protect fruit from sunscald.
Soil Care:
Maintain even soil moisture with deep mulch. Rotate planting sites annually to reduce soil-borne disease buildup.
Feeding:
Once flowering begins, shift from nitrogen-based feeds to potassium- and phosphorus-focused blends to improve fruiting and flavor.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 15–20 gallons with strong vertical support.
Drainage:
Essential—ensure multiple holes and use a well-draining potting mix with compost or perlite.
Watering Rhythm:
Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid alternating drought and saturation, which causes cracking and blossom end rot.
Heat Protection:
Shade container sides during the hottest months to prevent root overheating and flower drop.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, parsley, garlic, marigold, and onions deter pests and support beneficial insect populations.
Trap Crops:
Nasturtiums and radishes attract flea beetles and aphids away from tomato foliage.
Pollination:
Tomatoes are self-fertile, but bee and bumble activity improves fruit size and uniformity. Gently shake flowers in calm conditions to assist pollination.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose seed from healthy, true-to-type plants and fully ripe fruits with ideal size and shape.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds with gel into a jar with water.
Ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily until a thin film forms.
Rinse thoroughly and separate viable seeds, which sink.
Dry seeds for 7–10 days on a paper towel or mesh screen.
Storage:
Store dried seed in airtight containers with a desiccant pack in a cool, dark location.
Viability:
4–6 years under proper conditions.
Harvesting
Stage Options:
Harvest fruits when they are fully red and slightly soft to the touch, indicating peak ripeness and sugar content. Amish Paste tomatoes ripen gradually on indeterminate vines, allowing for multiple harvests throughout the season.
Technique:
Use pruning shears or scissors to snip fruit cleanly from the stem, leaving a short piece attached. Avoid pulling—this can tear branches or bruise fruit.
Frequency:
Check plants every 2–3 days once ripening begins. Regular picking encourages continuous fruiting and helps prevent overripe fruit from attracting pests.
Maturity Signs:
Full red color with consistent firmness and a subtle tomato aroma at the stem end. Fruit shoulders may remain slightly lighter in color; this is normal for the variety.
Flavor & Nutrition
Flavor Profile:
Sweet, balanced, and low-acid, with a meaty texture ideal for canning and sauces. Unlike Romas, Amish Paste retains juiciness and depth of flavor for both fresh eating and cooking.
Nutritional Content:
Rich in vitamin C, potassium, and lycopene—a key antioxidant linked to heart and cellular health. The dense flesh provides a higher nutrient concentration per serving than water-rich slicing varieties.
Flavor Tip:
To enhance sweetness and flavor density, reduce watering slightly as fruits begin to ripen, without allowing stress or wilt.
Handling
Post-Harvest Care:
Handle fruits gently to avoid bruising. Do not stack more than two layers deep in harvest baskets.
Avoid washing until ready to eat or process—moisture shortens storage life.
Work Area Hygiene:
Sanitize knives, trays, and canning surfaces regularly with vinegar or mild bleach solution to reduce bacterial contamination during processing.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Storage:
Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) out of direct sunlight until fully ripe. Once ripe, refrigerate only if necessary and use within 5 days.
Canning:
Amish Paste is a canner’s standard. Blanch and peel fruits before processing. Add lemon juice or citric acid per USDA guidelines to ensure safe acidity.
Freezing:
Core and quarter ripe fruits, then freeze in single layers before bagging. Excellent for sauces, soups, and slow cooking.
Drying:
Slice ¼ inch thick and dry at 120–125°F (49–52°C) until leathery but pliable. Store dried slices in airtight jars with desiccant packs.
Roasting:
Halve and roast cut-side up with olive oil, garlic, and herbs for concentrated flavor. Freeze or pack in oil for winter use.
Kitchen Use
Fresh:
Excellent in caprese salads, bruschetta, or fresh salsa where a mild, sweet flavor is desired.
Cooked:
Perfect for sauces, soups, stews, and pastes due to its thick texture and low water content.
Produces rich, smooth sauces with less cooking time than thinner tomatoes.
Pairings:
Pairs well with basil, oregano, rosemary, garlic, onions, and olive oil. Complements pasta, poultry, beans, and mild cheeses.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Growth Habit:
Indeterminate; vines can reach 6–8 feet. Provide strong stakes, cages, or trellises.
Pruning:
Remove the lower leaves up to the first flower cluster to reduce soil splash and improve air circulation. Avoid over-pruning—Amish Paste benefits from partial canopy cover to protect fruit from sunscald.
Soil Care:
Maintain even soil moisture with deep mulch. Rotate planting sites annually to reduce soil-borne disease buildup.
Feeding:
Once flowering begins, shift from nitrogen-based feeds to potassium- and phosphorus-focused blends to improve fruiting and flavor.
Container & Watering Tips
Container Size:
Minimum 15–20 gallons with strong vertical support.
Drainage:
Essential—ensure multiple holes and use a well-draining potting mix with compost or perlite.
Watering Rhythm:
Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid alternating drought and saturation, which causes cracking and blossom end rot.
Heat Protection:
Shade container sides during the hottest months to prevent root overheating and flower drop.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Good Companions:
Basil, parsley, garlic, marigold, and onions deter pests and support beneficial insect populations.
Trap Crops:
Nasturtiums and radishes attract flea beetles and aphids away from tomato foliage.
Pollination:
Tomatoes are self-fertile, but bee and bumble activity improves fruit size and uniformity. Gently shake flowers in calm conditions to assist pollination.
Seed Saving
Selection:
Choose seed from healthy, true-to-type plants and fully ripe fruits with ideal size and shape.
Fermentation Method:
Scoop seeds with gel into a jar with water.
Ferment for 2–3 days, stirring daily until a thin film forms.
Rinse thoroughly and separate viable seeds, which sink.
Dry seeds for 7–10 days on a paper towel or mesh screen.
Storage:
Store dried seed in airtight containers with a desiccant pack in a cool, dark location.
Viability:
4–6 years under proper conditions.
Common Pests & Problems – Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Insect Pests
Aphids
Small green, black, or brown insects that cluster on new growth and leaf undersides, sucking sap and weakening plants. They also excrete honeydew, encouraging sooty mold and attracting ants.
Organic Control: Wash plants with a strong stream of water or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies, which are natural predators. Interplant with basil, garlic, or marigolds to deter infestations.
Tomato Hornworms
Large green caterpillars capable of defoliating plants rapidly, often leaving behind large droppings.
Organic Control: Inspect plants daily and handpick hornworms. Dust foliage with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) or use spinosad during outbreaks. Encourage parasitic wasps—if you see hornworms with white cocoons on their backs, leave them in place to complete the control cycle.
Whiteflies
Tiny, white flying insects found on the undersides of leaves. They feed on sap and spread disease.
Organic Control: Use yellow sticky traps near plants and apply neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly. Strong airflow and spacing reduce their ability to settle and breed.
Spider Mites
Microscopic pests that thrive in hot, dry weather, leaving fine webbing and yellow speckling on leaves.
Organic Control: Increase humidity by misting or hosing leaves periodically. Apply neem oil or horticultural oil to break reproduction cycles. Beneficial insects like predatory mites can provide natural control.
Cutworms & Flea Beetles
Cutworms sever young stems at soil level; flea beetles chew small round holes in new leaves.
Organic Control: Protect seedlings with collars made from cardboard or plastic cups sunk into the soil. Apply diatomaceous earth or neem cake around stems. Floating row covers early in the season prevent infestation until plants mature.
Disease Issues
Early Blight & Septoria Leaf Spot
Fungal diseases that begin as dark spots on lower leaves, spreading upward and causing premature defoliation.
Organic Control: Prune for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide or a bio-fungicide containing Bacillus subtilis as a preventive measure. Rotate crops every 3–4 years.
Blossom End Rot
Not a disease but a physiological disorder caused by calcium deficiency from inconsistent watering.
Organic Control: Maintain steady soil moisture and add compost or gypsum before planting to improve calcium availability. Crushed eggshells add calcium long-term but decompose slowly, so incorporate them months ahead of planting for effect.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilt
Soilborne fungal diseases that cause lower leaves to yellow, wilt, and die back. Amish Paste is not resistant to these, so prevention is critical.
Organic Control: Rotate crops; avoid planting tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant in the same soil for 3–4 years. Add beneficial mycorrhizae and compost teas to strengthen root systems. Remove infected plants immediately and do not compost them.
Cracking & Splitting
Fruits may split after heavy rain or irregular watering.
Organic Control: Keep moisture consistent and mulch deeply to regulate soil conditions. Pick ripe fruits promptly after rainfall to prevent rot or insect damage.
Sunscald
Appears as pale or leathery patches on exposed fruit, often caused by over-pruning or heat stress.
Organic Control: Leave enough leaf canopy to shade developing fruit. If temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to prevent fruit burn.
Environmental Stresses
Heat Stress
Extended heat above 90°F (32°C) can cause flower drop and reduced pollination.
Organic Control: Provide light shade during extreme heat and maintain deep, regular watering. Mulching helps keep roots cool and stable.
Nutrient Imbalance
Too much nitrogen causes lush foliage with fewer fruits.
Organic Control: Use balanced fertilizers early, then shift to low-nitrogen, high-potassium (3-5-7) feeding once flowering starts.
Proactive Organic Measures
Rotate crops every 3–4 years and enrich soil with compost before each season.
Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to stabilize moisture and temperature.
Clean pruning shears between plants with vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.
Interplant with basil, garlic, onions, or parsley to deter pests and attract beneficial insects.
Apply aerated compost tea or seaweed extract monthly to strengthen disease resistance.
Insect Pests
Aphids
Small green, black, or brown insects that cluster on new growth and leaf undersides, sucking sap and weakening plants. They also excrete honeydew, encouraging sooty mold and attracting ants.
Organic Control: Wash plants with a strong stream of water or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies, which are natural predators. Interplant with basil, garlic, or marigolds to deter infestations.
Tomato Hornworms
Large green caterpillars capable of defoliating plants rapidly, often leaving behind large droppings.
Organic Control: Inspect plants daily and handpick hornworms. Dust foliage with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) or use spinosad during outbreaks. Encourage parasitic wasps—if you see hornworms with white cocoons on their backs, leave them in place to complete the control cycle.
Whiteflies
Tiny, white flying insects found on the undersides of leaves. They feed on sap and spread disease.
Organic Control: Use yellow sticky traps near plants and apply neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly. Strong airflow and spacing reduce their ability to settle and breed.
Spider Mites
Microscopic pests that thrive in hot, dry weather, leaving fine webbing and yellow speckling on leaves.
Organic Control: Increase humidity by misting or hosing leaves periodically. Apply neem oil or horticultural oil to break reproduction cycles. Beneficial insects like predatory mites can provide natural control.
Cutworms & Flea Beetles
Cutworms sever young stems at soil level; flea beetles chew small round holes in new leaves.
Organic Control: Protect seedlings with collars made from cardboard or plastic cups sunk into the soil. Apply diatomaceous earth or neem cake around stems. Floating row covers early in the season prevent infestation until plants mature.
Disease Issues
Early Blight & Septoria Leaf Spot
Fungal diseases that begin as dark spots on lower leaves, spreading upward and causing premature defoliation.
Organic Control: Prune for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and mulch to prevent soil splash. Apply copper fungicide or a bio-fungicide containing Bacillus subtilis as a preventive measure. Rotate crops every 3–4 years.
Blossom End Rot
Not a disease but a physiological disorder caused by calcium deficiency from inconsistent watering.
Organic Control: Maintain steady soil moisture and add compost or gypsum before planting to improve calcium availability. Crushed eggshells add calcium long-term but decompose slowly, so incorporate them months ahead of planting for effect.
Fusarium & Verticillium Wilt
Soilborne fungal diseases that cause lower leaves to yellow, wilt, and die back. Amish Paste is not resistant to these, so prevention is critical.
Organic Control: Rotate crops; avoid planting tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant in the same soil for 3–4 years. Add beneficial mycorrhizae and compost teas to strengthen root systems. Remove infected plants immediately and do not compost them.
Cracking & Splitting
Fruits may split after heavy rain or irregular watering.
Organic Control: Keep moisture consistent and mulch deeply to regulate soil conditions. Pick ripe fruits promptly after rainfall to prevent rot or insect damage.
Sunscald
Appears as pale or leathery patches on exposed fruit, often caused by over-pruning or heat stress.
Organic Control: Leave enough leaf canopy to shade developing fruit. If temperatures exceed 95°F (35°C), use 30–40% shade cloth to prevent fruit burn.
Environmental Stresses
Heat Stress
Extended heat above 90°F (32°C) can cause flower drop and reduced pollination.
Organic Control: Provide light shade during extreme heat and maintain deep, regular watering. Mulching helps keep roots cool and stable.
Nutrient Imbalance
Too much nitrogen causes lush foliage with fewer fruits.
Organic Control: Use balanced fertilizers early, then shift to low-nitrogen, high-potassium (3-5-7) feeding once flowering starts.
Proactive Organic Measures
Rotate crops every 3–4 years and enrich soil with compost before each season.
Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to stabilize moisture and temperature.
Clean pruning shears between plants with vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.
Interplant with basil, garlic, onions, or parsley to deter pests and attract beneficial insects.
Apply aerated compost tea or seaweed extract monthly to strengthen disease resistance.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
Q: What makes the Amish Paste Tomato unique?
Amish Paste is a traditional heirloom maintained by Amish growers for generations. It combines the dense, meaty flesh of a paste tomato with the sweetness and juiciness of a slicer, making it a versatile all-purpose variety for sauces, canning, and fresh use.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically mature in 80–89 days from transplant. The plants are indeterminate, continuing to flower and set fruit throughout the growing season rather than ripening all at once.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C) with consistent moisture. Cooler temperatures may slow or reduce germination rates.
Q: What kind of soil does it prefer?
Amish Paste performs best in well-drained loamy soil enriched with compost or aged manure. Ideal soil pH is 6.0–6.8. A steady supply of organic matter helps maintain moisture and nutrient balance throughout the growing season.
Q: How far apart should I space the plants?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Proper spacing improves airflow and reduces the likelihood of fungal disease.
Q: Does it need staking or cages?
Yes. Though often labeled a paste type, Amish Paste grows as a vigorous indeterminate vine and benefits from strong stakes, trellises, or cages. Supporting the plants keeps fruit clean and prevents breakage under heavy clusters.
Q: How much sunlight does it need?
Provide 6–8+ hours of full sun daily. Reduced sunlight can result in smaller fruit size and weaker flavor.
Q: How much should I water?
Maintain 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and heat. Water deeply and evenly to prevent blossom end rot and fruit cracking. Mulch heavily with straw or compost to retain soil moisture and reduce temperature swings.
Q: What type of fertilizer works best?
Feed with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6) or compost tea during early growth. Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (3-5-7) to encourage steady fruit production and flavor concentration.
Q: Can I grow Amish Paste in containers?
Yes. Use a minimum 10–15 gallon container with high-quality organic potting mix. Stake or cage early to avoid disturbing roots later. Container-grown plants need more frequent watering, especially during high heat.
Q: What are common pests and how can I control them organically?
Common pests include aphids, hornworms, whiteflies, and flea beetles. Control with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or BT spray as needed. Interplant basil, garlic, or marigolds to deter pests and encourage beneficial insects like lady beetles and lacewings.
Q: Is Amish Paste disease-resistant?
It is not resistant to Fusarium or Verticillium wilt, so crop rotation and soil hygiene are essential. However, it shows good tolerance to minor leaf diseases when properly mulched and pruned for airflow.
Q: What causes blossom end rot and how can I prevent it?
Blossom end rot results from irregular watering and temporary calcium deficiency. Keep soil moisture consistent, add compost or gypsum before planting, and avoid rapid drying and soaking cycles. Crushed eggshells can help over the long term but break down slowly.
Q: Can I save seeds from Amish Paste?
Yes. Amish Paste is open-pollinated, so saved seeds will grow true to type. Allow fruit to fully ripen, then ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days to remove the gel coating. Rinse, dry for 7–10 days, and store in an airtight container. Seeds remain viable for 4–6 years under cool, dark conditions.
Q: How should I harvest and store the fruits?
Harvest when tomatoes are fully red and firm, with a slight give to the touch. Use scissors or shears to avoid damaging stems. Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) until fully ripe; refrigeration is only recommended for overripe fruit intended for cooking or canning.
Q: Can Amish Paste be grown alongside other tomatoes?
Yes. Cross-pollination between tomato varieties is rare but possible. If saving pure seed, isolate by 25–50 feet or use blossom bags to ensure seed purity.
Q: What makes the Amish Paste Tomato unique?
Amish Paste is a traditional heirloom maintained by Amish growers for generations. It combines the dense, meaty flesh of a paste tomato with the sweetness and juiciness of a slicer, making it a versatile all-purpose variety for sauces, canning, and fresh use.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Fruits typically mature in 80–89 days from transplant. The plants are indeterminate, continuing to flower and set fruit throughout the growing season rather than ripening all at once.
Q: How long does germination take?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when kept between 75–85°F (24–29°C) with consistent moisture. Cooler temperatures may slow or reduce germination rates.
Q: What kind of soil does it prefer?
Amish Paste performs best in well-drained loamy soil enriched with compost or aged manure. Ideal soil pH is 6.0–6.8. A steady supply of organic matter helps maintain moisture and nutrient balance throughout the growing season.
Q: How far apart should I space the plants?
Space plants 24–36 inches apart in rows 36–48 inches apart. Proper spacing improves airflow and reduces the likelihood of fungal disease.
Q: Does it need staking or cages?
Yes. Though often labeled a paste type, Amish Paste grows as a vigorous indeterminate vine and benefits from strong stakes, trellises, or cages. Supporting the plants keeps fruit clean and prevents breakage under heavy clusters.
Q: How much sunlight does it need?
Provide 6–8+ hours of full sun daily. Reduced sunlight can result in smaller fruit size and weaker flavor.
Q: How much should I water?
Maintain 1–1½ inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and heat. Water deeply and evenly to prevent blossom end rot and fruit cracking. Mulch heavily with straw or compost to retain soil moisture and reduce temperature swings.
Q: What type of fertilizer works best?
Feed with a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-6) or compost tea during early growth. Once flowering begins, shift to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium blend (3-5-7) to encourage steady fruit production and flavor concentration.
Q: Can I grow Amish Paste in containers?
Yes. Use a minimum 10–15 gallon container with high-quality organic potting mix. Stake or cage early to avoid disturbing roots later. Container-grown plants need more frequent watering, especially during high heat.
Q: What are common pests and how can I control them organically?
Common pests include aphids, hornworms, whiteflies, and flea beetles. Control with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or BT spray as needed. Interplant basil, garlic, or marigolds to deter pests and encourage beneficial insects like lady beetles and lacewings.
Q: Is Amish Paste disease-resistant?
It is not resistant to Fusarium or Verticillium wilt, so crop rotation and soil hygiene are essential. However, it shows good tolerance to minor leaf diseases when properly mulched and pruned for airflow.
Q: What causes blossom end rot and how can I prevent it?
Blossom end rot results from irregular watering and temporary calcium deficiency. Keep soil moisture consistent, add compost or gypsum before planting, and avoid rapid drying and soaking cycles. Crushed eggshells can help over the long term but break down slowly.
Q: Can I save seeds from Amish Paste?
Yes. Amish Paste is open-pollinated, so saved seeds will grow true to type. Allow fruit to fully ripen, then ferment seeds in water for 2–3 days to remove the gel coating. Rinse, dry for 7–10 days, and store in an airtight container. Seeds remain viable for 4–6 years under cool, dark conditions.
Q: How should I harvest and store the fruits?
Harvest when tomatoes are fully red and firm, with a slight give to the touch. Use scissors or shears to avoid damaging stems. Store at room temperature (60–70°F / 16–21°C) until fully ripe; refrigeration is only recommended for overripe fruit intended for cooking or canning.
Q: Can Amish Paste be grown alongside other tomatoes?
Yes. Cross-pollination between tomato varieties is rare but possible. If saving pure seed, isolate by 25–50 feet or use blossom bags to ensure seed purity.
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History & Culture – Amish Paste Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
The domesticated tomato traces its origins to Andean South America, where Indigenous peoples first cultivated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Early farmers in present-day Peru and Ecuador selected for larger fruit size and improved flavor, establishing the genetic foundation for today’s cultivated tomato. Through Indigenous trade routes, the crop moved north into Mesoamerica, where it was further refined by the Maya and Nahua as part of the milpa system—a sophisticated rotation of maize, beans, and squash that supported food stability and ecological balance.
When Europeans encountered tomatoes in the 16th century, they were already a well-developed domesticate in Native agriculture. Following their introduction to Europe and later return to North America, tomatoes diversified rapidly as small farming communities and seed-saving cultures adapted them to local soils and climates.
The Amish Paste Tomato emerged within this long continuum of cultivation and seed stewardship. Brought to prominence through Amish communities in Wisconsin and Pennsylvania, the variety reflects the agricultural ethic of self-sufficiency and careful selection for quality rather than novelty. Oral histories trace its preservation to the 19th century, when Amish farmers maintained the seed for its reliable performance in home gardens and for canning.
Unlike industrial paste tomatoes bred for mechanical harvest, Amish Paste remained a hand-tended, open-pollinated line, valued for its meaty flesh, low seed count, and balanced sweetness. Its fruit size—often larger than modern Romas—and its dual-purpose use for both fresh and processed dishes made it a cornerstone of small-scale food preservation.
Today, Amish Paste continues to be grown by gardeners and small producers who prioritize flavor, texture, and authenticity over uniformity. It stands as one of the most recognizable heirloom paste tomatoes, maintaining its place in both traditional seed networks and contemporary market gardens as a dependable, field-proven cultivar.
The domesticated tomato traces its origins to Andean South America, where Indigenous peoples first cultivated wild Solanum species thousands of years ago. Early farmers in present-day Peru and Ecuador selected for larger fruit size and improved flavor, establishing the genetic foundation for today’s cultivated tomato. Through Indigenous trade routes, the crop moved north into Mesoamerica, where it was further refined by the Maya and Nahua as part of the milpa system—a sophisticated rotation of maize, beans, and squash that supported food stability and ecological balance.
When Europeans encountered tomatoes in the 16th century, they were already a well-developed domesticate in Native agriculture. Following their introduction to Europe and later return to North America, tomatoes diversified rapidly as small farming communities and seed-saving cultures adapted them to local soils and climates.
The Amish Paste Tomato emerged within this long continuum of cultivation and seed stewardship. Brought to prominence through Amish communities in Wisconsin and Pennsylvania, the variety reflects the agricultural ethic of self-sufficiency and careful selection for quality rather than novelty. Oral histories trace its preservation to the 19th century, when Amish farmers maintained the seed for its reliable performance in home gardens and for canning.
Unlike industrial paste tomatoes bred for mechanical harvest, Amish Paste remained a hand-tended, open-pollinated line, valued for its meaty flesh, low seed count, and balanced sweetness. Its fruit size—often larger than modern Romas—and its dual-purpose use for both fresh and processed dishes made it a cornerstone of small-scale food preservation.
Today, Amish Paste continues to be grown by gardeners and small producers who prioritize flavor, texture, and authenticity over uniformity. It stands as one of the most recognizable heirloom paste tomatoes, maintaining its place in both traditional seed networks and contemporary market gardens as a dependable, field-proven cultivar.
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Healthy, well-adapted plants form the foundation of a strong seed line. Select only plants that are disease-free, vigorous, and true to type. Look for traits you wish to preserve—flavor, yield, fruit size, shape, color, and resilience to local conditions.
Mark these plants early in the season with colored ties or labels. Observe them through harvest, ensuring they maintain strong growth and fruit uniformity. Avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties unless intentionally breeding for new traits, as hybrids will not breed true. Open-pollinated and heirloom tomatoes are ideal because they reproduce faithfully from one generation to the next.
When possible, save from at least six to ten plants per variety to maintain genetic diversity and avoid narrowing the gene pool.
2. Harvesting Seeds
Allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine until they develop deep color and softness. Overripe tomatoes produce the most mature, viable seeds.
Harvest carefully to avoid bruising.
Slice the fruit across its middle (not stem to blossom end) to expose the seed cavities.
Scoop out the seeds along with the gel (locular material) into a clean glass or ceramic container.
Label each container with the variety name immediately to prevent mix-ups.
3. Fermentation: Nature’s Cleaning Process
Tomato seeds are encased in a gelatinous coating that contains growth inhibitors. Fermentation naturally removes this layer while reducing seedborne pathogens in an organic, chemical-free way.
How to ferment seeds:
Add enough non-chlorinated or rainwater to the seed pulp to make it fluid.
Loosely cover the container with a breathable cloth or lid to allow airflow while keeping insects out.
Place in a warm, shaded area (70–80°F / 21–27°C).
Stir the mixture once or twice daily to encourage even fermentation.
Within 2–4 days, a thin film or mold will form on the surface—this is normal. The process is complete when most viable seeds have sunk to the bottom and the liquid no longer appears gelatinous.
Do not ferment longer than 4 days, as over-fermentation can reduce germination rates.
4. Cleaning Seeds (Organic Methods)
Once fermentation is complete:
Add fresh water, stir, and let the good seeds settle.
Carefully pour off the floating pulp, debris, and non-viable seeds.
Repeat until the water runs clear.
Strain the clean seeds through a fine mesh or cheesecloth to remove excess water.
Optional organic sanitization:
Instead of bleach, use one of the following gentle, natural alternatives:
Hydrogen peroxide rinse: Soak seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Apple cider vinegar solution: 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water for 1 minute, followed by thorough rinsing.
Chamomile tea soak: Use cooled, strong chamomile tea as a mild antifungal rinse before drying.
Each option helps reduce fungal spores while maintaining organic integrity.
5. Drying Seeds
Spread cleaned seeds in a single layer on a ceramic plate, mesh screen, or parchment paper. Avoid metal trays and paper towels, which can stick or react with the seeds.
Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area—never in direct sunlight or above 95°F (35°C). Stir daily to prevent clumping and ensure uniform drying.
Seeds are fully dry when they feel hard and brittle, breaking rather than bending under pressure. This usually takes 7–14 days depending on humidity.
If drying indoors in humid climates, a small fan or food dehydrator on the lowest setting (around 85°F / 29°C) can speed the process safely.
6. Storing Seeds
Proper storage protects your seed legacy:
Packaging: Store dry seeds in paper envelopes for short-term or airtight glass jars for long-term storage. You may add a small pouch of silica gel, baked rice, or powdered milk wrapped in paper as a natural desiccant.
Labeling: Write variety name, year saved, and any notable traits or growing conditions.
Environment: Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35–45°F (1–7°C).
Avoid frequent temperature changes or exposure to moisture. Under good storage, tomato seeds remain viable for 4–10 years, sometimes longer when kept refrigerated or frozen with humidity control.
7. Testing Seed Viability
Before planting, test seed viability to ensure quality:
Moisten a paper towel with clean, non-chlorinated water and place 10 seeds on it.
Fold and seal it inside a plastic bag or covered dish.
Keep in a warm (75–80°F / 24–27°C), dark area for 5–7 days.
Count how many have germinated.
8–10 sprouts: excellent viability
6–7 sprouts: acceptable, plant more heavily
Below 6 sprouts: refresh seed stock next season
8. Preventing Cross-Pollination
Tomatoes are self-pollinating, but pollinators like bees can occasionally cause crossing between varieties. To ensure purity:
Space varieties 10–25 feet apart if possible.
Use fine mesh blossom bags or lightweight fabric covers on selected flowers to ensure self-pollination only.
Collect seeds from multiple fruits and plants to preserve genetic diversity.
For seed-saving gardens, consider grouping similar types (like all cherries or all beefsteaks) in separate zones to minimize accidental crosses.
Isolation is especially important if you grow rare or heritage varieties that you want to keep true to their line.
9. Record Keeping and Documentation
Good records turn seed saving into a living science. Record:
Parent plant characteristics
Harvest date and location
Fermentation duration
Cleaning and drying methods
Storage conditions
Germination test results
Add personal notes on taste, disease resistance, and performance in your region. This information builds a reliable record of adaptation over time, forming the backbone of your seed stewardship work.
10. Organic Tips for Success
Never use chlorinated tap water; it can damage the natural microbial balance in fermentation.
Compost the leftover tomato pulp and skins—they enrich your soil for the next growing season.
Rotate crops yearly to prevent soilborne disease buildup.
Encourage beneficial insects such as native bees, hoverflies, and lady beetles to maintain ecological pollination balance.
Avoid synthetic fungicides or seed treatments that disrupt the natural seed microbiome.
Rejuvenate seed lots every few years by growing out and resaving fresh seed to maintain vitality.
Label immediately—unlabeled seed is lost history.
Uses and Benefits of Tomatoes
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Culinary Uses
Tomatoes are among the most useful and diverse crops a grower can raise. Their natural harmony of sweetness, tang, and savory depth makes them a foundation of cuisines across the world. Nearly every culture has found ways to preserve, cook, or celebrate the tomato, and each type offers its own best use.
General Preparation Methods
Fresh Eating: Tomatoes can be sliced, diced, or eaten whole for a refreshing burst of flavor. Their acidity balances rich or oily dishes, and their juice adds natural umami depth to plant-based meals.
Cooking: Tomatoes transform when heat is applied—their sugars caramelize, their acidity mellows, and flavors deepen. Stewed or roasted tomatoes form the base for soups, sauces, chutneys, and gravies.
Preserving: Tomatoes are among the easiest crops to preserve. They can be sun-dried, oven-dried, canned, or frozen, retaining their bright taste for winter use.
Fermentation and Pickling: Sliced green or ripe tomatoes can be fermented with salt or lacto-cultured for tangy condiments rich in beneficial microbes.
Juices and Pastes: Pureed tomatoes yield smooth juice or concentrated paste for storage, sauces, and cooking.
Uses by Type
Each category of tomato lends itself best to certain culinary or preservation uses:
Slicer Tomatoes (Large and Beefsteak types):
Best for sandwiches, burgers, and fresh salads. Their large, juicy slices hold flavor and texture well. Excellent for thick sauces or roasted preparations.
Cherry and Grape Tomatoes:
Naturally sweet and quick to mature, these are perfect for snacking, salads, roasting, and skewers. They can be dried or blistered in oil for concentrated flavor.
Paste and Plum Tomatoes (Roma types):
Contain less water and more flesh, making them ideal for cooking down into sauces, ketchups, and pastes. Their texture holds well in slow-cooked dishes.
Canning or Processing Varieties:
Balanced between juice and flesh, these tomatoes are excellent for large-batch preserving. They peel easily, making them useful for stewed tomatoes, soups, and juice.
Heirloom Tomatoes:
Valued for their distinct colors, shapes, and complex flavors. Best enjoyed fresh, in salads, or as centerpiece ingredients where their taste and appearance shine.
Green or Specialty Tomatoes:
Unripe fruits or green varieties can be fried, pickled, or used in relishes. Their firm flesh and bright acidity make them unique for savory applications.
Nutritional Benefits
Tomatoes contribute richly to a healthy diet without overstating medicinal claims. They are naturally low in calories and high in hydration, providing essential nutrients that support overall well-being:
Vitamins: High in vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin A (as beta-carotene), which support immune function, bone strength, and visual health.
Minerals: Provide potassium, manganese, and trace amounts of iron and copper.
Phytonutrients: Contain lycopene, beta-carotene, and chlorogenic acid—antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.
Dietary Fiber: Promotes digestion and balances blood sugar when eaten with other whole foods.
Cooking tomatoes increases lycopene availability, while fresh tomatoes retain higher vitamin C content, making both raw and cooked forms valuable parts of the diet.
Cultural and Practical Benefits
Tomatoes carry deep cultural significance. They connect growers and cooks through shared tradition, adaptation, and local flavor. Their ease of growth and abundance make them a cornerstone of seed sovereignty and community gardening.
Adaptability: Tomatoes thrive in containers, raised beds, and open fields, providing harvests even in limited space.
Economic and Community Value: A reliable crop for market growers and home seedkeepers alike. Fresh tomatoes, sauces, and preserved goods can all be sold or traded within local economies.
Seed Stewardship: Saving tomato seeds encourages local adaptation to soil and climate. Over time, these saved lines develop regional hardiness and flavor that reflect the land itself.
Teaching and Sharing: Tomatoes are often a beginner’s introduction to seed saving, fermentation, and seasonal cooking, bridging generations and passing on knowledge through practice.
Everyday Benefits and Kitchen Versatility
Tomatoes bring balance and brightness to nearly any dish. They pair naturally with herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and parsley; with onions, garlic, and peppers; and with proteins ranging from beans to fish and poultry.
They also serve as a base for numerous cultural staples:
Italian: Pasta sauces, bruschetta, and margherita pizzas.
Mexican: Salsas, pico de gallo, and tomato-chile stews.
Indian: Tomato curries, chutneys, and masala gravies.
Mediterranean: Tomato-cucumber salads, stewed vegetables, and roasted spreads.
American and Southern: Fried green tomatoes, tomato gravy, and canning traditions.
Their diversity of form—round, pear-shaped, oblong, ribbed, or miniature—mirrors their diversity of use. Each variety, from a sun-warmed cherry to a dense Roma, brings its own balance of sweetness, acidity, and aroma to the plate.
Environmental and Garden Benefits
Beyond the kitchen, tomatoes contribute to ecological resilience:
Pollinator Attraction: Tomato blossoms draw bumblebees and native pollinators.
Companion Planting: Pair well with basil, marigold, garlic, and carrots to deter pests and enrich nearby crops.
Soil-Building Potential: Mulching tomato beds with compost and organic matter strengthens soil structure for future plantings.
Diversity Preservation: Growing multiple tomato types maintains genetic diversity, supporting the larger ecosystem of cultivated food plants.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Tomato Plants (Solanum lycopersicum)Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
- Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
- If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
- Side-dress tomatoes with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first fruit set; a light second side-dress after heavy early harvest is optional.
- Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to help prevent blossom-end rot (a Ca/moisture issue).
- Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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