Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Bred for cool nights and short seasons, King of the North delivers zero heat (0 SHU) bell sweetness where other varieties hesitate. Expect dependable sets and full, blocky fruit even in northern gardens, raised beds, and high tunnels.
Plants are sturdy and compact, typically 18–24 inches tall with a branching, upright habit. Foliage shelters 3–4-lobed bells averaging 3–4 inches across, with smooth shoulders and thick walls that hold up to stuffing and roasting. Fruit ripen from glossy green to deep red on a timeline friendly to shorter summers.
In the kitchen, King of the North is a true multipurpose bell: fresh for salads, stuffed (walls stay firm), and roasted or grilled for sandwiches, pizzas, and pastas. The thick flesh peels cleanly after blistering, ideal for jars of marinated peppers. Diced red bells freeze well for soups and chili when the garden is done.
Selected for northern reliability, King of the North thrives with full sun, even moisture, and moderate feeding. Space generously for airflow, mulch once soils warm, and pick green for maximum yield or let clusters color for peak sweetness. A season-extending staple for growers who want bell pepper flavor without the wait.
Add content in product metafield custom.planting_care_information.
How To Grow — King of the North (Capsicum annuum)
Sowing and Germination
Start indoors: 8 to 10 weeks before your last expected spring frost. Great for short seasons, but still needs a full indoor start.
Seed depth: 1/4 inch in a fine, sterile seed starting mix.
Warmth: Keep the medium at 80 to 85°F. Use a heat mat and humidity dome for uniform sprouting.
Germination window: 7 to 21 days. If slow, verify that the core of the mix is warm, not just the surface.
Moisture: Evenly moist, not wet. Bottom water to limit damping off.
Light for seedlings: 14 to 16 hours daily under strong lights. Keep fixtures 2 to 3 inches above the canopy.
First feeding: Begin half strength balanced fertilizer once true leaves appear. Repeat weekly until transplant.
Transplanting and Hardening Off
Pot up: At 3 to 4 true leaves, move to 3 to 4 inch pots with a fertile, well drained mix.
Harden off: 7 to 10 days before planting out. Increase sun, wind, and outdoor time gradually.
Transplant timing: After last frost and when nights hold above 55°F. Aim for soil temps at or above 65°F.
Spacing, Support and Training
In ground spacing: 18 to 24 inches between plants, 24 to 30 inches between rows.
Container size: 7 gallons is a strong minimum for full size bells in cool climates. Larger volumes improve wall thickness and uniform ripening.
Support: Compact cage or low ring stake prevents branch bend under fruit.
Training tip: Pinch the growing tip once at 8 to 10 inches tall to encourage branching and earlier, heavier set.
Light, Temperature and Season
Sun: 6 to 8 hours of direct sun each day.
Ideal temperatures: Days 70 to 85°F. Nights 60 to 70°F.
Short season edge: This variety colors more reliably in cool summers than many bells, but still protect from cold nights.
Stress thresholds: Blossom shed is common above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F.
Season helpers: Warm beds with black mulch, use low tunnels or row cover in spring and fall, and deploy 30 to 40 percent shade cloth during heat spikes.
Soil Preparation and Fertility
Soil type: Loose, fertile, well drained loam high in organic matter.
Target pH: 6.2 to 6.8.
Base nutrition: Mix 1 to 2 inches of finished compost into the top 6 to 8 inches before planting.
Fertilizer plan:
Pre-plant: Apply a balanced organic fertilizer at label rates.
At first flower and fruit set: Shift toward higher potassium and calcium to support thick walls and clean blossom ends.
Note: Avoid excess nitrogen after transplant. Too much foliage delays bloom and coloring.
Watering and Mulch
Moisture goal: Even moisture for steady growth and clean tips.
Frequency: Deeply water 1 to 2 times per week depending on heat and soil type.
Mulch: Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce swings that toughen skins.
Pollination, Pruning and Airflow
Pollination: Flowers are self fertile. Bees and small pollinators improve set and uniformity.
Pruning: Remove damaged leaves and lightly thin dense interior foliage for airflow. Do not hard prune.
Airflow: Maintain spacing and water early so leaves dry quickly.
Containers — Care and Feeding
Potting mix: High quality soilless mix with added perlite or bark for drainage and air space.
Feeding: In containers, feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins.
Watering: Container peppers dry faster, especially in wind. Check daily in hot weather and water until slight runoff.
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Cool night stall: If nights trend below 55°F, use row cover to keep heat in and maintain set.
Heat stress: Above 95°F, provide temporary shade and increase watering frequency to prevent blossom drop.
Blossom end problems: Usually linked to uneven moisture or low calcium availability. Keep watering consistent and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen.
Aphids, thrips, mites: Interplant basil, coriander, and alyssum to encourage beneficials. Spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours.
Sunscald: In bright, cool conditions, fruit can sunburn. Maintain foliage cover and add gentle afternoon shade if needed.
Harvest Guidance
When to pick:
Green stage for firm texture and classic stuffed pepper use.
Full red for peak sweetness and thick walls for roasting and slicing.
How to pick: Use snips to leave a short stem and protect fruiting nodes.
Post harvest: Rest in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration.
Seed Saving Notes
Purity: Isolate from other Capsicum annuum if you want true to type seed. Bag a few flower clusters for maximum purity in small gardens.
Selection: Choose from plants that color reliably in cool conditions, with blocky form and thick, sweet walls.
Drying: Wash or ferment seeds free of pulp, then air dry 7 to 10 days until crisp. Store cool and dark with a desiccant.
Additional Tips - King of the North (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Harvest at glossy green for crisp, mild flavor and sturdy walls for stuffing, or allow pods to mature to deep red for peak sweetness and fuller aroma. This variety colors reliably even in shorter seasons.
Clean cuts: Use fine-tip pruners to snip pods with a short stem. Annuum pedicels can tear if pulled, which stresses nodes and slows new flowering.
Batch strategy: For stuffed pepper batches and roasted strips, schedule one or two concentrated red harvests. For steady kitchen use, take a trickle of green to blushing pods so plants keep setting through cool spells.
Shade cure: After picking, rest pods in a single layer 2 to 4 days in a shaded, breezy spot. This evens color, finishes sugars, and firms skins before refrigeration or preservation.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: Green stage is crisp, lightly grassy, and balanced. Red stage is honeyed and fruity with low bitterness and thick, juicy walls.
Nutrient notes: Vitamin C and carotenoids rise as pods color from green to red, which boosts both sweetness and antioxidant value.
Kitchen sweetness control: Leave placental ribs intact when roasting for maximum sweetness and juice. For tighter texture in raw salads and salsas, deseed and remove ribs to reduce moisture bleed.
Handling
Mild and safe: Gloves are optional. Wash hands before touching eyes to avoid mild irritation from pepper oils.
Clean transitions: Wash knives and boards with hot soapy water, then a splash of vinegar to cut oils before moving to fruit or cheese.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Refrigerate unwashed in a paper-lined container with the lid slightly ajar to manage humidity. Quality holds 7 to 10 days at green. Red peppers are sweeter but slightly softer and should be used within a week.
Roasting and peeling: Broil or pan-char until blistered, steam under a bowl 10 minutes, peel, then slice for antipasto, sandwiches, fajitas, and grain bowls.
Grilling: Halve, oil lightly, grill cut side down until just tender. Finish with lemon and olive oil for salads and mezze.
Quick pickles: Slice rings or strips and brine with garlic, mustard seed, and a pinch of sugar. Red slices bring color and sweetness to sandwiches and cheese boards.
Relish and jam: Simmer fine-diced red bells with onion, vinegar, and a light syrup for a sweet spread that pairs with cheeses and grilled meats.
Dehydrating: Slice into rings or small strips and dry at 115 to 120°F. Store whole, then grind as needed for a sweet pepper sprinkle.
Freezing: Dice or slice, freeze flat on a tray, then bag. Handy for omelets, pasta, stir-fries, stews, and soups.
Kitchen Use
Everyday uses: Fresh for salads, lunch boxes, and crudités. Stuff with herbed rice, grains, or cheese. Red strips brighten hummus plates and sandwiches.
Cooking: Sheet-pan roasts with onions and sausage, red pepper bisque, shakshuka, fajitas, pasta primavera, and Mediterranean grain salads.
Flavor pairings: Basil, parsley, oregano, thyme, lemon, balsamic, olive oil, garlic, fresh cheeses, smoked paprika, chickpeas, poultry, and white fish.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Short season strength: Bred for cooler climates and shorter summers. Sets and colors in regions where standard bells can stall. Use black plastic or dark mulch to warm soil in spring.
Habit and support: Sturdy, compact plants with blocky bells. A low ring stake or compact cage keeps branches upright under heavy clusters.
Sun and airflow: Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun with spacing that lets leaves dry fast after rain. Light tip pinching at 8 to 10 inches encourages branching and heavier set.
Temperature management: Flowers set better in the 60 to 80°F range. During heat spikes above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F, use 30 to 40 percent shade cloth and keep soil evenly moist. Row cover on cool nights helps early and late in the season.
Nutrient balance: Moderate nitrogen early, then emphasize potassium and calcium at fruit set for thick walls and clean blossom-end quality. Excess nitrogen can push foliage at the expense of fruit.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 7 gallons is a good target. Larger volumes improve wall thickness, pod size, and even ripening, especially in short seasons.
Moisture: Maintain steady moisture with deep, regular watering. Wide swings from dry to wet can toughen skins, invite blossom-end issues, and mute sweetness. Mulch to stabilize soil temperature.
Fertilizer rhythm: In containers, feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins. In beds, side-dress with compost midseason and supplement potassium as clusters set.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Interplant with basil, coriander, dill, and sweet alyssum to draw hoverflies and parasitic wasps that manage aphids and thrips. Small blooms also invite bees, which can improve fruit set.
Row partners: Onions and scallions fit along edges without shading. Avoid fennel nearby since it competes for beneficial insects and space.
Seed Saving
True-to-type selection: Choose from plants with uniform blocky bells that color reliably to red in cool conditions, with thick, sweet walls and low bitterness. Avoid pointed or elongated off-types.
Isolation: Separate from other C. annuum peppers if purity matters. For small gardens, bag several flower clusters with mesh or isolate plants by distance and barriers.
Dry and store: Ferment or wash seeds clean of pulp, then air-dry 7 to 10 days until snappy. Bottle with a small desiccant and store cool and dark. Test viability annually with a simple 10 seed germination check.
Common Pests & Problems — Sweet ‘King of the North’ (Capsicum annuum)
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Knock back with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap or neem at 5–7 day intervals. Break up ant trails (they protect aphids). Grow nectar plants (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to support lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing in hot/dry spells—even in tunnels up north)
Controls: Raise humidity (mulch, dampen paths), hose undersides thoroughly, rotate horticultural oil and neem. Release Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites early under cover.
Whiteflies (adults flutter when disturbed; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem; maintain weed sanitation around beds.
Thrips (silvery scarring, buckled new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards; remove spent blooms and weedy hosts; spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on tender spring foliage—common in cool regions)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth bands at stems; radish trap crops. Keep edges tidy.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; clear plant debris; handpick at dusk where pressure exists.
Caterpillars (fruitworms/armyworms/loopers) (chewed leaves, entry holes in pods)
Controls: Scout daily; handpick; apply Bt kurstaki on small larvae. Mow tall grasses and manage margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (oviposition stings; larvae in pods)
Controls: Time harvests to beat peak fly activity; promptly remove and destroy infested fruit; deploy baited traps per local extension timing.
Pepper weevil / fruit borers (warmer areas; greenhouse risk) (premature fruit drop, internal tunneling)
Controls: Tight sanitation; frequent harvest; destroy culls; consult extension for pheromone trap deployment.
Slugs & snails (cool, moist climates—seedlings and low fruit)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits; beer traps; copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown lesions; defoliation)
Prevention: Certified/treated seed; rotate 3+ years from Solanaceae; avoid overhead irrigation; sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected foliage; copper products can protect new growth (follow labels/intervals).
Anthracnose (ripe pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; generous spacing; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit immediately; consider protectant fungicides during warm, wet stretches.
Phytophthora blight / root rot (sudden wilt after rains; dark crown lesions; fruit collapse in wet soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage; avoid low spots and overwatering.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; do not replant peppers in that bed that season.
Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves, often late season under cover)
Prevention: Airflow; avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress spread.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no curative treatment.
Cold stress & slow growth (northern springs)
Symptom: Purpling or yellowing leaves; stalled set.
Fix: Delay transplant until dawn soil ≥60–65°F (16–18°C) and nights ≥55°F (13°C); use black mulch/row cover; protect with low tunnels early.
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end)
Cause: Calcium delivery failure from irregular moisture/root stress.
Fix: Keep moisture even; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (avoid heavy N).
Poor fruit set
Cause: Nights <55–60°F (13–16°C), highs >95°F (35°C), excess N, drought, low light.
Fix: Use row cover or low tunnels to warm nights; provide 30–40% shade cloth during heat spikes; maintain steady irrigation and moderate fertility.
Sunscald (white/tan leathery patches on pods after sudden full sun)
Fix: Maintain a healthy canopy; avoid heavy defoliation; use temporary shade during heat waves.
Edema / water stress (blisters/corky patches)
Fix: Regularize irrigation; avoid abrupt wet–dry cycles—common when weather flips from cool/rainy to hot.
Cracking/splitting (after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; harvest promptly at full color.
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering and high N mute sweetness; steady, moderate fertility and irrigation improve sugars.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, including leaf undersides and newest growth.
Prefer drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space plants well; prune only problem foliage to retain a protective canopy.
Mulch after soils warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased or infested fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is King of the North?
Heatless—0 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Selected for sweetness and reliable set in cool climates.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
Generally 65–80 days from transplant to harvestable green; 75–90 days to full red in northern summers (coloring is faster in warm, settled weather).
Q: How long does germination take?
Typically 7–21 days at 80–85°F (27–29°C) with steady moisture in a fine seed-starting mix. Cooler media slow and reduce germination.
Q: Does it need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained loam, pH 6.0–6.8. Keep the root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C); raised beds and black mulch help in cool regions.
Q: What spacing should I use?
Plant 16–18 in (40–45 cm) apart in rows 24–30 in (60–75 cm). This supports airflow and sturdy branching under heavy sets.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Gentle airflow and pollinator visits can boost set.
Q: Can I grow King of the North in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10 gallon pots with excellent drainage. A light cage or stake helps carry clusters.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 8–20 bells per plant, depending on season length and harvest frequency. Picking some green encourages ongoing set.
Q: How should I harvest them?
Cut with clean pruners, leaving a short stem. Harvest green for earlier yields or wait for full red for maximum sweetness and vitamin C.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate in a breathable bag for 1–2 weeks. Roast and peel red fruit for marinated strips, dice and freeze for winter soups, or stuff and bake fresh.
Q: Will cool weather affect performance?
This variety is bred for cooler nights and shorter seasons, but red coloring still benefits from consistent warmth and sun. Use dark mulch or low tunnels early for a head start.
Q: Is it perennial?
Short-lived perennial only in frost-free zones. Elsewhere, grow as an annual or overwinter indoors (bright light, 60–70°F / 16–21°C) after pruning by one-third.
Q: Why are my plants flowering but not setting fruit?
Nights below 55–60°F (13–16°C) or highs above 95°F (35°C) can reduce set. Stabilize moisture, avoid heavy nitrogen, and provide light afternoon shade during heat spikes.
Q: Why are fruits slow to turn red?
Cool nights, dense canopies, or excess nitrogen can delay color. Thin inner leaves lightly for sun, reduce N after first set, and maintain even moisture.
Q: Can King of the North cross with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum. If saving seed true to type, isolate plantings or bag blossoms and hand-pollinate.
Q: Kitchen tips for King of the North?
Use green bells for crisp sautés, fajitas, and salads; let pods finish red for peak sweetness in roasted-pepper strips, stuffed peppers, and winter freezer packs.
The ancestors of King of the North, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas. Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica and the Caribbean domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into countless landraces through patient seedkeeping—saving from plants with thicker flesh, gentle sweetness, and dependable ripening cues. In milpas and home gardens, broad-shouldered, mild peppers were roasted on comals, stuffed with maize and beans, and dried for winter stews. Seed moved by canoe and footpath, adapting to highland terraces and coastal lowlands; the bell’s meaty walls and zero heat are living gifts of this Indigenous stewardship.
When Iberian ships ferried peppers across the Atlantic in the sixteenth century, Capsicum entered Mediterranean and Balkan kitchens devoted to roasting, stuffing, and preserving. Market gardeners stabilized blocky, thick-walled, mild forms that blistered and peeled well, while cooks folded them into peperonata, escalivada, ajvar, and lecsó. That Old World refinement—3–4 lobes, smooth shoulders, and sweetness at full color—did not replace Indigenous selection; it extended it, shaping a vegetable pepper built for ovens, jars, and market stalls.
“King of the North” arises from a later, distinctly North American chapter: the challenge of growing reliable red bells where summers are short and nights run cool. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, immigrant seedkeepers—Italian, Hungarian, Polish, Jewish, Scandinavian, French Canadian, and others—brought bell culture back to the hemisphere of its birth and rooted it in the cooler latitudes of New England, the Upper Midwest, the Maritimes, and the Great Lakes. There, selection pressure was relentless: plants had to set fruit under cool nights, color red before frost, and stay compact for field edges, backyard plots, and—later—high tunnels.
Out of that lived selection came a class of “northern” bells, with King of the North becoming the best-known name among gardeners. More descriptor than pedigree, it signals a package of traits fixed by many hands over many seasons:
Earliness & cool-night set. Flowers that pollinate and hold fruit when evenings dip into the 50s°F (10–13°C), and fruit that blushes early rather than stalling green.
Compact architecture. Short internodes and balanced branching that fit tight beds, small tunnels, and windy sites without heavy staking.
Thick, juicy walls even at smaller block size, so the pepper still stuffs, roasts, and peels like a larger bell.
Uniform lobing and smooth shoulders for easy packing and clean roasting skins.
Culturally, King of the North is part of the story of northern truck farming and home canning. In mill towns and lakeside communities, families timed “pepper day” by the first baskets of dependable red bells. Church basements and Grange halls hosted canning bees; jars of roasted reds joined tomatoes and pickles in cellar rows. For market gardeners, an early red bell meant beating the first cold front, filling CSA boxes with color when most fields still offered green. Cookbook margins and seed catalogs traded advice that became selection criteria: save seed from the first uniformly red fruits, from plants that kept setting through a cold snap, from peppers that peeled easily after a quick char.
The name also marks a geography of resilience. In maritime climates, gardeners saved seed from plants that tolerated fog and wind; along the Great Lakes, from those that ripened despite lake-effect cool; in mountain valleys, from bells that finished before sudden frost. Over time, “King of the North” became not just a variety but a seedkeeping practice: localizing a bell to one’s specific latitude, soil, and night temperatures—just as peppers have always become place-specific through human choice.
In kitchens, the pepper’s role reflects that northern context. Green stage bulked out skillet meals and summer salads; full red moved to roasting pans for sandwiches, soups, and sauces. Its moderate size stuffed efficiently with rice, barley, or cheese; its thick walls peeled cleanly after a brief broil or grill. For heat-shy households, it delivered the bell’s promise—0 SHU sweetness—without the long wait more heat-loving bells sometimes demand in cool climates.
Today, to grow King of the North is to participate in a living tradition that starts with Indigenous domestication, passes through Mediterranean roasting culture, and settles into northern seed stewardship. It is a reminder that varieties are verbs as much as nouns: they are made and remade by gardeners who select for the lives they lead—school calendars, market days, first frosts, last warm sunsets. Save seed from your earliest, best-formed red fruits, and the line will lean ever more toward your place. In that act, the “king” is not a crown but a commitment—to a pepper shaped by community, climate, and care.
Saving seeds from King of the North Peppers (Capsicum annuum):
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving:
Choose healthy plants with vigorous growth and abundant peppers.
Avoid plants showing signs of disease or poor growth.
2. Harvesting Seeds:
Timing: Allow the peppers to mature fully on the plant until they turn red and wrinkled.
Collection: Harvest the ripe peppers and cut them open to remove the seeds.
3. Cleaning Seeds:
Separation: Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pepper flesh.
Inspection: Ensure seeds are clean and free from mold or pests.
4. Drying Seeds:
Place the seeds on a paper towel or screen in a well-ventilated, dry area. Allow them to dry completely for one to two weeks.
5. Storing Seeds:
Containers: Store seeds in labeled paper envelopes or airtight containers.
Storage Conditions: Keep in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Viability: Use seeds within two to three years for best results.
6. Testing Seed Viability:
Test by placing seeds on a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in a warm place and check for germination.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving:
Isolation: Maintain distance between different pepper varieties to prevent cross-pollination.
Pollinators: Encourage pollinators for better seed production.
Record Keeping: Keep detailed records of the process.
Uses and Benefits:
King of the North Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is known for its large, sweet, red fruits. It is often used in salads, stir-fries, and as a fresh snack.
Peppers provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supporting overall health. King of the North Peppers are versatile in culinary applications, adding a sweet flavor and color to dishes.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - King of the North
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Bred for cool nights and short seasons, King of the North delivers zero heat (0 SHU) bell sweetness where other varieties hesitate. Expect dependable sets and full, blocky fruit even in northern gardens, raised beds, and high tunnels.
Plants are sturdy and compact, typically 18–24 inches tall with a branching, upright habit. Foliage shelters 3–4-lobed bells averaging 3–4 inches across, with smooth shoulders and thick walls that hold up to stuffing and roasting. Fruit ripen from glossy green to deep red on a timeline friendly to shorter summers.
In the kitchen, King of the North is a true multipurpose bell: fresh for salads, stuffed (walls stay firm), and roasted or grilled for sandwiches, pizzas, and pastas. The thick flesh peels cleanly after blistering, ideal for jars of marinated peppers. Diced red bells freeze well for soups and chili when the garden is done.
Selected for northern reliability, King of the North thrives with full sun, even moisture, and moderate feeding. Space generously for airflow, mulch once soils warm, and pick green for maximum yield or let clusters color for peak sweetness. A season-extending staple for growers who want bell pepper flavor without the wait.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
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Wow, what a pretty blue these seeds are. i can't wait to plant them and watch them grow. I will update you on how many germinate. The seeds look healthy.
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D.F.
Seeds look great 👍 and i haven't had a chance to plant any of them yet, but I will update you when I put them in a seed tray and see how many germinate.
Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
