Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Thin-walled, sweet, and built for the skillet. Cubanelle—the classic Italian/Cuban frying pepper—delivers zero to very mild heat (0–500 SHU) with a clean, green-apple sweetness when pale yellow-green, deepening toward orange-red at full ripeness. Its elongated, gently twisted pods cook in seconds and stay silky-tender.
Plants are vigorous yet tidy, typically 20–28 inches tall with an open, branching habit that sets heavily. Clusters of 6–8 inch tapered pods hang in waves; walls are thin to medium-thin with small seed cavities and softly wrinkled shoulders. Fruit mature from light yellow-green → orange → red, giving a long, staggered picking window.
In the kitchen, Cubanelle is made for quick frying and roasting—sear whole in olive oil until blistered, then salt and splash with vinegar or lemon. It’s superb stuffed (cheese, sausage, or rice), folded into eggs and sandwiches, or sliced for pizza and fajitas. Red-stage pods roast and peel easily for sweet strips and antipasti; pale pods are perfect for crunchy sautés and light pickles.
Selected for steady set and classic flavor, Cubanelle rewards full sun, even moisture, and balanced feeding with continuous harvests. Pick pale for maximum yield and snap, or allow to color for richer sweetness. A market favorite that brings restaurant-quality frying peppers to any backyard.
Add content in product metafield custom.planting_care_information.
How To Grow - Cubanelle (Capsicum annuum)
Site and Light
Full sun, 6 to 8 hours daily for best yield and flavor
In very hot regions, light afternoon shade helps prevent sunscald on long, thin-walled pods
Soil and Fertility
Loose, well drained loam rich in organic matter, pH 6.2 to 6.8
Work in finished compost before the season for steady, moderate nutrition
Keep nitrogen moderate during active growth so plants flower and color on time
Spacing and Support
Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, with 24 to 30 inches between rows
Provide a compact cage or low ring stake, clusters of long pods can bend laterals and cause lodging
Watering and Mulch
Maintain even moisture from flowering through harvest to avoid leathery skins and curved, wrinkled pods
Water deeply so the whole root zone is moistened, then allow the top inch to dry slightly before the next irrigation
Apply 2 to 3 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves to stabilize soil temperature and reduce evaporation
Feeding in Season
Begin light, regular feeding at first flowers with a balanced program that emphasizes potassium and calcium
Avoid heavy nitrogen once fruiting begins, excess leaf growth delays bloom and can dilute sweetness
Temperature and Season Management
Best performance with days 70 to 85°F and nights 60 to 70°F
Blossom shed is common above 95°F or when nights dip below 55°F
During heat spikes, use 30 to 40 percent shade cloth and maintain steady moisture to keep flowers and small fruit from aborting
Black mulch or warmed beds help early growth in cooler regions
Pruning, Airflow and Pollination
Lightly thin dense interior foliage to improve airflow, do not hard prune
Remove damaged leaves promptly to reduce pest harborage
Flowers are self fertile, nearby blooms like basil and alyssum invite pollinators and can improve set
Containers
Use a high quality potting mix with added perlite or bark for drainage
A 5 to 7 gallon container works well, 10 gallons improves pod length and uniformity
Check moisture frequently in hot weather and water until slight runoff, feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins
Common Issues and Integrated Pest Management
Wrinkled or curved pods often trace to uneven watering, keep moisture consistent and mulch well
Blossom end issues link to moisture swings or low calcium availability, maintain even watering and avoid heavy ammoniacal nitrogen
Aphids, thrips, mites can be discouraged by interplanting nectar sources for hoverflies and parasitic wasps, spot treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in evening hours
Sunscald on green pods during heat waves, provide brief afternoon shade and maintain a modest leaf canopy
Harvest and Postharvest
Pick at light green for classic frying quality with mild tang, or allow to color to orange-red for richer sweetness
Cut with snips and leave a short stem to protect fruiting nodes
Rest harvested pods in shade 2 to 3 days to stabilize color and sugars before refrigeration
Additional Tips — Cubanelle (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
Stage options: Harvest at light green for the classic Cuban-style frying pepper—mild, slightly tangy, and crisp—or allow pods to mature to orange-red for richer sweetness and softer texture. Both stages are prized for different uses.
Clean cuts: Use fine-tip pruners to snip pods, leaving a short stem. Annuum pedicels can tear if pulled, stressing the plant and reducing flowering.
Batch strategy: For frying and sautéing, gather large batches of uniform green pods early. For sauces, roasting, and stuffing, let pods color and collect them in one or two larger red harvests.
Shade cure: After picking, rest pods 2 to 3 days in a shaded, breezy spot. This evens color, softens skins slightly, and enhances sugars before refrigeration or roasting.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: At green stage, crisp and lightly grassy with a faint tang; at red stage, sweet and full-bodied with soft flesh and delicate fruitiness.
Nutrient notes: Fully red pods concentrate vitamin C, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds, boosting both sweetness and antioxidant activity.
Kitchen flavor control: Use green pods for frying and quick sautés where you want crispness and mild tang. Use red pods for roasting, soups, and relishes where richer sweetness is desired.
Handling
Mild and safe: Gloves not required. Wash hands before touching eyes to avoid minor irritation.
Clean transitions: Wash knives and cutting boards with hot soapy water, then a splash of vinegar to remove oils before preparing fruit or cheese.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Refrigerate unwashed in a paper-lined container with the lid slightly ajar. Green pods store 7 to 10 days; red pods are softer and best within a week.
Frying: Classic preparation—slice lengthwise, sauté in olive oil until blistered and tender. Sprinkle with salt and serve as a side.
Roasting and peeling: Broil or grill red pods until blistered, steam under a bowl, peel skins, then marinate with olive oil, garlic, and parsley for antipasto.
Pickling: Slice green pods into rings, pack in light vinegar brine with oregano and garlic. Ideal for sandwiches and salads.
Relish: Cook chopped red pods with onion, vinegar, and sugar for a tangy-sweet pepper relish.
Dehydrating: Slice into strips, dry at 115–120°F, and store whole. Grind before use for a mild sweet pepper powder.
Freezing: Slice or dice, freeze flat, then bag. Great for stir-fries, egg dishes, soups, and pasta.
Kitchen Use
Traditional uses: Cuban and Dominican cooking—frying peppers with onions, beans, and meats; stews, sofritos, and yellow rice.
Cooking: Roasted red peppers for sauces, pizzas, and sandwiches; green peppers stuffed with cheese, rice, or ground meat.
Habit and support: Plants produce long, tapered pods in heavy clusters. A low cage or stake supports branches that may sag under weight.
Sun and airflow: Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun and keep spacing generous for airflow. Light tip pinching at 8 to 10 inches encourages branching and larger yields.
Set reliability: Annuum flowers can abort in heat over 95°F or cool nights under 55°F. Shade cloth in heat waves maintains fruit set.
Nutrition balance: Moderate nitrogen for early growth, then higher potassium and calcium for fruiting, glossy skins, and strong walls.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5 to 7 gallons for good production; larger containers improve fruit length and uniformity.
Moisture: Maintain steady watering. Fluctuating soil moisture toughens skins and causes uneven ripening. Mulch stabilizes soil temperature and moisture.
Fertilizer rhythm: In containers, feed lightly every 10 to 14 days once flowering begins. In beds, side-dress with compost midseason and supplement potassium as fruits set.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Interplant with basil, dill, coriander, and sweet alyssum to attract hoverflies and parasitic wasps for pest control. Small flowers also invite bee visitation for heavier fruit set.
Row partners: Onions and scallions grow well nearby. Avoid fennel, which competes for pollinators and beneficial insects.
Seed Saving
True-to-type pods: Choose long, slightly curved pods that taper to a blunt tip, ripen from green to red, and carry mild sweetness. Avoid off-types that are blocky, overly thick-walled, or very spicy.
Isolation: Separate at least 150 feet from other C. annuum peppers for purity. In small gardens, bag several flower clusters with mesh to ensure type integrity.
Dry and store: Wash or ferment seeds free of pulp, then air-dry 7 to 10 days until crisp. Store in airtight containers with desiccant in a cool, dark place. Test germination yearly with a 10-seed trial.
Would you like me to continue with Classic Red Bell next in this same full template style?
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Blast with a firm water spray, then apply insecticidal soap or neem at 5–7 day intervals as needed. Break ant trails (they protect aphids). Plant nectar sources (alyssum, dill, yarrow) to recruit lacewings and lady beetles.
Spider mites (fine stippling, bronzing, webbing during hot/dry spells—thin Cubanelle leaves show damage quickly)
Controls: Raise humidity (mulch, dampen paths), thoroughly hose leaf undersides, rotate horticultural oil and neem. Under cover, introduce Phytoseiulus/Neoseiulus predatory mites early.
Whiteflies (adults flutter when disturbed; honeydew/sooty mold)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards at canopy height; early-morning vacuuming of leaf undersides; repeat soap/neem applications; weed sanitation along bed edges.
Thrips (silvery scarring, distorted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow sticky cards; remove spent blooms and weedy hosts; apply spinosad (outdoor label) or insecticidal soap. Avoid mowing flowering weeds near the crop during bloom.
Flea beetles (shot-holes on tender spring foliage)
Controls: Lightweight row cover until first flowers; diatomaceous earth bands at stems; trap crops (radishes). Keep borders tidy and dry.
Cutworms (seedlings cut at soil line)
Controls: 2–3" stem collars; remove plant debris; handpick at dusk in known hotspots.
Caterpillars (fruitworms/armyworms/loopers) (chewed leaves, entry holes in pods—elongated, thin-walled fruit are easy targets)
Controls: Scout daily; handpick; spray Bt kurstaki on small larvae. Manage grassy margins to reduce moth habitat.
Pepper maggot (regional) (oviposition stings; larvae tunneling in pods—light green Cubanelle is attractive)
Controls: Harvest frequently to outrun peak fly activity; promptly remove/destroy infested fruit; use baited traps per local extension timing.
Pepper weevil / fruit borers (warm regions/greenhouses) (premature fruit drop; internal tunneling)
Controls: Tight sanitation; destroy culls; frequent harvest; consult extension for pheromone trap deployment and action thresholds.
Slugs & snails (seedlings and low-hanging pods)
Controls: Iron-phosphate baits; beer traps; copper barriers; pull mulch back 2–3" from stems.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (water-soaked specks → brown lesions; defoliation, blemished pods)
Prevention: Certified/treated seed; rotate 3+ years away from Solanaceae; avoid overhead watering; sanitize stakes and tools.
Management: Remove infected foliage; copper products can protect new growth (observe labels/PHIs).
Anthracnose (ripe/colored pods) (sunken lesions with orange spore masses)
Prevention: Mulch to block soil splash; provide airflow; drip irrigation.
Management: Rogue infected fruit immediately; consider protectant fungicides during warm, wet runs.
Phytophthora blight / root rot (sudden wilt after rains; dark crown lesions; fruit collapse in saturated soils)
Prevention: Raised beds, excellent drainage; avoid low spots and over-irrigation.
Management: Pull and discard affected plants; do not replant peppers in that bed that season.
Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves, often late season/under cover)
Prevention: Airflow and moderate N.
Management: Remove worst leaves; Bacillus-based biofungicides or potassium bicarbonate can suppress.
Verticillium & Fusarium wilts (one-sided wilt/yellowing; vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae; solarize where feasible; remove plants—no in-plant cure.
Mosaic viruses (CMV/TSWV/TEV) (mottled/puckered leaves, stunting; crooked fruit)
Prevention: Control thrips/aphids; rogue symptomatic plants; sanitize hands/tools; avoid handling tobacco before field work.
Physiological & Environmental Issues
Soft walls or limp pods for frying
Cause: Irregular moisture, excess shade, or late picking after heat stress.
Fix: Keep irrigation steady; maintain sun exposure; harvest at glossy light green to pale yellow for best texture.
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black tip—visible on long pods)
Cause: Calcium delivery failure from inconsistent moisture/root stress.
Fix: Even irrigation; mulch; avoid root disturbance; balanced feeding (don’t overdo nitrogen).
Poor fruit set
Cause: Heat >95°F (35°C), cool nights <60°F (16°C), drought, excess N, low light.
Fix: Provide 30–40% shade cloth in heat waves; warm soils early with black mulch; moderate fertility; steady moisture; good airflow.
Sunscald (white/tan leathery patches on exposed sides of pale fruit)
Fix: Maintain a healthy canopy; avoid heavy defoliation; deploy temporary shade during extreme heat.
Edema / water stress (blisters or corky patches on leaves/pods)
Fix: Regularize irrigation; avoid big wet–dry swings.
Cracking/splitting (after heavy rain following drought)
Fix: Keep moisture consistent; pick promptly at the target frying/pickling stage.
Flavor dilution
Note: Overwatering and high N mute Cubanelle’s sweetness. Aim for steady, moderate fertility and irrigation.
Monitoring & Prevention — Quick Checklist
Scout weekly, focusing on undersides and newest growth.
Use drip/soaker irrigation; if overhead, water mornings only.
Space generously; only remove problem foliage to keep a protective canopy over long pods.
Mulch once soil is warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne pathogens.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes.
Sanitize tools; harvest frequently; discard diseased/infested fruit rather than composting.
Q: How hot is the Cubanelle?
Generally 0–500 Scoville Heat Units (SHU)—most pods taste sweet to very mildly warm. Heat, if present, is gentle and varies with weather and strain.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
About 60–70 days from transplant to pale yellow-green frying stage; 75–85 days to full orange-red for peak sweetness.
Q: How long does germination take?
Typically 7–21 days at 80–85°F (27–29°C) with steady, even moisture in a fine seed-starting mix.
Q: Does it need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained loam, pH 6.0–6.8. Keep the root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C); mulch after soils warm to stabilize moisture and keep fruit clean.
Q: What spacing should I use?
Plant 14–18 in (35–45 cm) apart in rows 24–30 in (60–75 cm). Upright, heavy-setting plants appreciate good airflow.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Flowers are self-pollinating. Air movement and pollinators can slightly improve set.
Q: Can I grow Cubanelle in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10 gallon pots with excellent drainage. A light stake or small cage prevents lodging when clusters are heavy.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Commonly 20–50+ long pods per plant across a long warm season, especially with regular picking.
Q: How should I harvest them?
Snip with clean pruners, leaving a short stem. Pick at yellow-green for classic frying use and higher total yield; allow some to finish red for max sugars and roasting.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Refrigerate in a breathable bag for 1–2 weeks. Ideal pan-fried/blistered, stuffed and baked, roasted and peeled for sandwiches, or quick-pickled strips. Roasted strips freeze well.
Q: Will cooking change flavor or texture?
Yes. Quick blistering and roasting concentrate sweetness and give a silky texture; thin walls cook fast, so use medium-high heat and avoid overcooking.
Q: Is it perennial?
Short-lived perennial in frost-free zones; elsewhere, grow as an annual or overwinter indoors (bright light, 60–70°F / 16–21°C) after pruning by one-third.
Q: Why are my plants flowering but not setting fruit?
Nights below 60°F (16°C) or highs above 95°F (35°C), drought stress, or excess nitrogen can reduce set. Maintain even moisture, moderate feeding, and offer 30–40% shade cloth during heat spikes.
Q: Why are pods thin or misshapen?
Irregular watering and low calcium uptake can produce thin, curled fruit. Keep irrigation steady, avoid heavy N, and maintain pH in range.
Q: Can Cubanelle cross with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum. If saving seed true to type, isolate plantings by distance or bag blossoms and hand-pollinate.
Q: Kitchen tips for Cubanelle?
Use as the quintessential sweet frying pepper: blister whole in olive oil with garlic and salt, stuff with cheese/sausage and bake, roast and peel for hoagies and pizzas, or slice raw for crisp salads and antipasti.
The ancestors of the Cubanelle, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas, where Indigenous farmers domesticated wild Capsicum annuum into many landraces adapted to place, palate, and ritual. In the circum-Caribbean and Mesoamerica, seedkeepers favored elongated, thin-walled, mild peppers for sofritos, stews, and quick charring on hot stones—types that cooked fast, perfumed broths, and softened sweet without searing heat. Seed moved by canoe and coastal trade; selection happened in kitchens as much as fields. Over generations, peppers with tapered bodies, gentle sweetness, and pliant skins became a staple profile—ancestral to what we now recognize as “frying” peppers.
When Iberian ships carried pepper seed into the currents of empire in the sixteenth century, Capsicum cycled through ports that linked Seville, Veracruz, Havana, and Santo Domingo. In Spanish Caribbean kitchens—Taíno, African, and Iberian influences braided together—mild, slender peppers found a central role in sofrito and guiso. Cooks and gardeners saved seed from pods that sliced quickly, melted into aromatics, and held sweetness in the pan. The colonial-era trade routes that shipped sugar and citrus also moved garden seed hand to hand; what mattered was behavior at the stove: a pepper that fries tender in minutes and brightens a dish without heat.
The pepper that would be called Cubanelle took shape in this world. While the name points to Cuba, its cultural geography is wider: Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, and diasporic neighborhoods from Tampa’s Ybor City to New York’s Spanish Harlem all claim the type. In these kitchens, the Cubanelle’s identity is culinary first—the frying pepper—harvested green to pale straw for brisk, grassy sweetness, or fully red for richer sugar. Its thin, flexible walls, long, lightly lobed shape, and small seed cavity make it ideal for rapid sautéing, stuffing and frying, grilling whole, or stripping into sofrito. It stands beside onions, garlic, culantro/cilantro, and tomato as a foundational note in countless pots.
By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Caribbean migrants and returnees carried Cubanelle seed into the U.S. mainland. In Florida, Cuban cigar workers and Sicilian immigrants overlapped in markets and gardens; in New York, Puerto Rican and Dominican families cultivated rooftop and back-lot plots. Green grocers learned that Cubanelle sells: it looks like a long, sweet Italian pepper but cooks even faster, its skin blistering easily and its flesh collapsing silk-smooth into eggs, fish, beans, and meats. Italian American cooks adopted it for peppers-and-eggs, sausage-and-peppers, and quick pan roasts; Jewish delis sliced it into omelets and tuna salads; Dominican and Puerto Rican bodegas kept it stacked by the box for daily sofrito runs.
The name “Cubanelle” solidified in mid-century seed catalogs as vegetable distributors standardized labels for produce buyers. But the type continued to evolve locally, as all good food crops do. Market growers in New Jersey and the Lehigh Valley saved seed from plants that set prolifically in humid summers, colored quickly, and resisted sunscald on exposed shoulders. Florida growers selected for longer, smoother pods that packed tightly; Northeastern gardeners pressed for cool-night set and early size for short seasons. Cuban, Dominican, and Puerto Rican gardeners—on islands and in diaspora—favored lines that behaved predictably in sofrito: thin skins that disappear in the pan, no chewy peel, steady flavor.
Culturally, Cubanelle is a bridge ingredient. It carries the Indigenous inheritance of mild, quick-cooking peppers; the African and Iberian techniques of long-simmered aromatics; and the American habit of skillet speed. It threads through ropa vieja and arroz con pollo, bacalao guisado and habichuelas guisadas, then swings across the street to Italian frying pans, Polish lecsó-like stews, and Greek piperies. In diners from Miami to the Bronx, it reads as everyday comfort: pale-green strips blistered with onions, a splash of vinegar, a plate of eggs or a roll of sausage close by.
Color in Cubanelle is both cue and culture. Pale green/straw signals snap and grassy sweetness for raw salads and quick fries. Blushing to red deepens sugars for stuffing, roasting, and slow braises. Seed savers lean into both: saving from plants that size early light-green pods for the fry pan, and from plants that finish a true, even red for late-summer roasts. Over seasons, local lines emerge: in coastal heat, selections with sunfast shoulders and open canopies for airflow; in cooler valleys, lines that set through 50s°F nights and reach red before frost—varietal evolution guided by the hands and tastes of the communities who cook with it.
In markets, heaps of Cubanelle telegraph intent: tonight there will be sizzle in the pan, perfume in the house, and no heat to scare off children or elders. In community gardens, it’s a teaching pepper: why thin walls fry faster; how zero to very-low SHU peppers expand the chile family; how saving seed from the first perfect frying pods makes a line that fits your climate, your skillet, your weeknight rhythm. Chefs prize it because it behaves: it blisters without weeping water, accepts char and vinegar, and folds into eggs and stews without stringiness.
To grow Cubanelle is to keep a living archive. Each harvest carries Indigenous domestication forward, honors Caribbean kitchens that made frying peppers quotidian, and recognizes the diasporic creativity that spread the type across North American tables. Save seed from the plants that feed your sofrito best—those whose skins vanish in oil, whose sweetness lingers in the pan—so the pepper keeps answering the same practical, generous question it has answered for centuries: What can we make, quickly and well, for everyone at the table?
Saving seeds from Cubanelle Peppers (Capsicum annuum):
1. Selecting Plants for Seed Saving:
Choose healthy plants with vigorous growth and abundant peppers.
Avoid plants showing signs of disease or poor growth.
2. Harvesting Seeds:
Timing: Allow the peppers to mature fully on the plant until they change color and become slightly wrinkled.
Collection: Harvest the ripe peppers and cut them open to remove the seeds.
3. Cleaning Seeds:
Separation: Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pepper flesh.
Inspection: Ensure seeds are clean and free from mold or pests.
4. Drying Seeds:
Place the seeds on a paper towel or screen in a well-ventilated, dry area. Allow them to dry completely for one to two weeks.
5. Storing Seeds:
Containers: Store seeds in labeled paper envelopes or airtight containers.
Storage Conditions: Keep in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Viability: Use seeds within two to three years for best results.
6. Testing Seed Viability:
Test by placing seeds on a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in a warm place and check for germination.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving:
Isolation: Maintain distance between different pepper varieties to prevent cross-pollination.
Pollinators: Encourage pollinators for better seed production.
Record Keeping: Keep detailed records of the process.
Uses and Benefits:
Cubanelle Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is known for its sweet, mild flavor and thin walls. It is often used in salads, stir-fries, and stuffed dishes.
Peppers provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supporting overall health. Cubanelle Peppers are versatile in culinary applications, adding a mild, sweet flavor to dishes.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance Of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Sweet - Cubanelle
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Thin-walled, sweet, and built for the skillet. Cubanelle—the classic Italian/Cuban frying pepper—delivers zero to very mild heat (0–500 SHU) with a clean, green-apple sweetness when pale yellow-green, deepening toward orange-red at full ripeness. Its elongated, gently twisted pods cook in seconds and stay silky-tender.
Plants are vigorous yet tidy, typically 20–28 inches tall with an open, branching habit that sets heavily. Clusters of 6–8 inch tapered pods hang in waves; walls are thin to medium-thin with small seed cavities and softly wrinkled shoulders. Fruit mature from light yellow-green → orange → red, giving a long, staggered picking window.
In the kitchen, Cubanelle is made for quick frying and roasting—sear whole in olive oil until blistered, then salt and splash with vinegar or lemon. It’s superb stuffed (cheese, sausage, or rice), folded into eggs and sandwiches, or sliced for pizza and fajitas. Red-stage pods roast and peel easily for sweet strips and antipasti; pale pods are perfect for crunchy sautés and light pickles.
Selected for steady set and classic flavor, Cubanelle rewards full sun, even moisture, and balanced feeding with continuous harvests. Pick pale for maximum yield and snap, or allow to color for richer sweetness. A market favorite that brings restaurant-quality frying peppers to any backyard.
Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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D.F.
Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
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D.F.
Wow, what a pretty blue these seeds are. i can't wait to plant them and watch them grow. I will update you on how many germinate. The seeds look healthy.
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D.F.
Seeds look great 👍 and i haven't had a chance to plant any of them yet, but I will update you when I put them in a seed tray and see how many germinate.
