Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
A showpiece with bite. Black Olive (Capsicum annuum) is an ornamental edible distinguished by deep purple-black foliage and glossy fruit that shifts from inky violet to wine-red at maturity. Heat is lively and clean, typically 10,000 to 30,000 Scoville units, with bright peppery flavor that plays well in the kitchen.
Plants are compact and dramatic, usually 18 to 24 inches tall, with a tidy, upright habit that loads each node with blossoms and fruit. The leaves emerge green, then darken to near black in full sun, setting off clusters of small, conical pods held upright above the canopy. Pods average 1 to 2 inches, with thin to medium walls that dry quickly for flakes or powder. As they ripen, you can enjoy a full gradient on a single plant, from purple-black through mahogany to rich red.
Taste a slice and the heat arrives promptly, a quick spark that builds to medium-hot, balanced by fresh, green-herb notes that turn a little sweeter at full red. In the kitchen, mince for salsas and stir-fries, or dry for striking confetti-like flakes. The pods also shine in quick pickles and chili oils, where their color and brightness carry through.
Bred from ornamental-culinary lines of C. annuum and rooted in the species domesticated by Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica, Black Olive brings modern garden drama without sacrificing usefulness. It is a reliable, heavy-setting variety that turns containers and borders into living art while supplying plenty of flavorful heat for everyday cooking.
Starting Indoors
Timing: Start seeds 8–10 weeks before last frost.
Depth: Sow seeds 1/4 in deep in sterile seed starting mix.
Temperature: Keep medium 80–90°F for best germination.
Germination Time: 10–21 days under optimal conditions.
Light: After sprouting, provide 14–16 hours of strong light daily.
Air Temperature: Maintain 70–80°F.
Potting Up: Transplant seedlings into larger pots at the first true leaf stage.
Feeding: Apply a 1/4 strength balanced fertilizer weekly.
Soil Temperature and Transplant Timing
Do not transplant by calendar alone.
Check soil at 2–4 in depth:
• Must be at least 60–65°F for several consecutive mornings.
• Night air temperatures should stay at or above 55°F.
• Ideal root zone is 70–85°F for vigorous growth.
How to check: Insert a soil thermometer 2–4 in deep and take early morning readings for a few days, then average.
Transplanting Outdoors
Hardening Off: Reduce shock by hardening off 5–7 days before transplant.
Location: Choose a site with full sun and rich, well drained soil, pH 6.0–6.8.
Spacing: Plant 18–24 in apart in rows 24–36 in apart.
Support: Stake or small cage plants to handle heavy fruit set and keep upright clusters off the soil.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, especially during dry spells
Water deeply but infrequently to encourage strong root growth
Best method: use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water at soil level, reducing wet foliage and minimizing disease risk
If overhead watering is used, water early in the day so foliage dries before evening
Note on heat levels: less water and fertilizer can intensify heat, while excess water and fertilizer can make peppers milder
Fertilizing
Start with a balanced fertilizer every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth
Once plants flower and set fruit, switch to a low nitrogen, high potassium formula to support heavy fruiting and hotter peppers
Weeding and Mulching
Keep weeds under control, they compete for nutrients, space, and water
Use mulch, black plastic early and organic later, to
Retain soil moisture
Suppress weeds
Keep soil temperatures stable
Be careful when hand weeding, pepper roots are shallow and easily damaged, which can lead to issues such as blossom end rot
Sun and Heat Management
Grow in full sun for maximum yield, foliage color, and heat development
In extreme heat above 95°F, provide light afternoon shade to improve fruit set
Spacing and Support
Space plants 18–24 inches apart in rows 24–36 inches apart
Use stakes or small cages to support plants heavy with fruit and to keep upright clusters off the soil
Companion Planting
Good companions: tomatoes, parsley, basil, carrots, okra, beans, and cucumbers
Avoid: fennel and kohlrabi, which can stunt pepper growth
Colorful fruit and dark foliage pair attractively with green herbs and vegetables in the bed
Container Growing
Use 7–10 plus gallon pots with high quality potting mix and good drainage
Containers dry faster, check moisture daily
In midsummer, shade the sides of pots to protect roots from overheating
Additional Tips — Black Olive Pepper (Capsicum annuum)
Harvesting
• Pods can be picked at any stage, but fullest flavor and heat develop at deep red.
• Use pruners or a sharp knife and leave a short stem to prevent tearing and plant stress.
• Because fruit points upward, harvest colored pods promptly to limit sunscald.
• Pick often to keep plants flowering and setting new fruit.
Flavor & Nutrition
• Flavor shifts from crisp and peppery at purple to sweeter and richer at red.
• Fully mature red pods offer the most concentrated flavor and vitamins.
• Even moisture and moderate feeding support clean, non-bitter taste.
Handling
• Heat is moderate, but capsaicin can still irritate. Wear gloves for large batches.
• Avoid touching eyes or face and wash hands, boards, and knives after handling.
• When drying or grinding, ventilate well to avoid irritating fumes.
Storage & Preservation
• Drying: Thin to medium walls dry well. String whole pods by the stems or slice and dry in a warm, airy place out of direct sun. Grind to colorful flakes or powder once brittle.
• Freezing: Slice, tray freeze, then bag for quick use in stir-fries, eggs, and soups.
• Pickling: Small pods keep color and snap. Pack within 24 hours of harvest for best texture.
• Infusions and vinegars: Steep rings in neutral oil or vinegar for bright heat. Refrigerate oil infusions and use within a week.
Kitchen Use
• Use sparingly at first. Add minced rings to salsas, noodle bowls, tacos, and pizzas.
• Bloom briefly in oil with garlic to release aromatics for pastas and vegetables.
• Dry for confetti-like finishing flakes.
• Balance with citrus, honey, roasted tomato, soy or tamari, sesame, and fresh herbs.
• Heat control tip: remove the white pith to reduce heat. Seeds add texture more than heat.
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew or sooty mold)
Controls: Blast with water, insecticidal soap or neem oil; encourage lady beetles and lacewings.
Spider mites (fine stippling, webbing in heat or drought)
Controls: Increase humidity, hose undersides, horticultural oil or neem; release predatory mites if available.
Whiteflies (clouds when disturbed, honeydew)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards, vacuum in morning, insecticidal soap or neem.
Thrips (silvery scarring, distorted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards, remove weeds and spent blooms, spinosad or insecticidal soap.
Flea beetles (shot hole damage on young leaves)
Controls: Row cover until flowering, trap crops, diatomaceous earth around stems.
Pepper weevil or fruit borers, warmer regions (premature fruit drop, tiny entry holes)
Controls: Prompt harvest, destroy dropped fruit, tight sanitation; consult local guidance for targeted traps.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: Collars around stems, clear plant debris, handpick at dusk.
Caterpillars including loopers and hornworms (chewed leaves or fruit)
Controls: Handpick; Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki on small larvae.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot, Xanthomonas spp. (small water soaked spots that turn brown; defoliation)
Prevention: Use clean seed, avoid overhead watering, rotate 3 or more years out of Solanaceae, sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected leaves; copper sprays can protect new growth.
Anthracnose, Colletotrichum spp. (sunken, moldy fruit lesions, often on fully colored pods)
Prevention: Mulch to reduce splash, provide airflow, use drip irrigation.
Management: Remove infected fruit; consider protectant fungicides labeled for peppers.
Phytophthora blight and root rot, Phytophthora capsici (sudden wilt, dark stem lesions, fruit rot in wet soils)
Prevention: Excellent drainage, raised beds, avoid low spots and over irrigation; long rotations.
Management: Pull and discard severely affected plants; do not replant peppers in that spot the same season.
Powdery mildew, often Leveillula taurica (white powder on leaves late season)
Prevention: Airflow and spacing, avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; approved biofungicides can suppress.
Verticillium and Fusarium wilts (one sided yellowing or wilt, vascular browning)
Management: Rotate, solarize soil where feasible; remove plants since there is no in plant cure.
Mosaic viruses, CMV, PVY, TMV and others (mottled, puckered leaves; stunting, spread by aphids or thrips and by handling tobacco)
Prevention: Control vectors, rogue infected plants, avoid handling tobacco before working plants; sanitize hands and tools.
Physiological and Environmental Issues
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end on fruit)
Cause: Irregular moisture or root damage reduces calcium transport.
Fix: Keep moisture even, mulch, avoid root disturbance; steady feeding without excess nitrogen.
Poor fruit set
Cause: Heat above 95°F, nights below 55°F, low light, drought, excess nitrogen.
Fix: Provide light afternoon shade during heat waves, steady moisture, moderate fertilization.
Sunscald, common on upright fruit (white or tan patches on pods exposed to sudden full sun)
Fix: Maintain a healthy canopy, avoid heavy defoliation, harvest colored pods promptly.
Edema or water stress (blisters or corky patches)
Fix: Water on a rhythm and avoid large wet to dry swings.
Flavor and heat dilution
Note: Heavy water and high nitrogen can reduce heat and color intensity; modest stress, not wilting, concentrates capsaicin and pigments.
Monitoring and Prevention Checklist
Scout weekly and check leaf undersides and new growth.
Water at soil level with drip or soaker lines; if overhead is unavoidable, water in the morning.
Space plants and prune lightly for airflow; remove only problem leaves.
Mulch once soil is warm to stabilize moisture and block splash borne disease.
Rotate 3 or more years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, and potatoes.
Sanitize tools and harvest promptly; discard diseased fruit rather than composting if unsure.
Q: How hot is the Black Olive pepper
Hot. Typically 10,000 to 30,000 Scoville Heat Units with a clean, peppery flavor that turns a bit sweeter at full red.
Q: How long does it take to mature
About 70 to 89 days from transplant to first harvest. Pods color through purple to wine red, then red at full maturity.
Q: How long does germination take
Usually 10 to 21 days at 80 to 90°F. Cooler media slow and reduce germination.
Q: Do Black Olive peppers need special soil conditions
Yes. Use rich, well drained loam with pH 6.0 to 6.5. Keep the root zone 70 to 85°F for steady growth.
Q: What spacing do they need
Plant 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches apart to ensure airflow and support the upright branching habit.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination
No. They are self pollinating. Gentle airflow or a light shake of blossoms can improve fruit set.
Q: Can I grow Black Olive in containers
Yes. Use a 7 to 10 plus gallon container with excellent drainage. Keep soil evenly moist and shade pot sides in midsummer to prevent root stress.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce
With good care, expect 75 to 150 plus small pods per plant, depending on climate and culture.
Q: How do I harvest them
Use clean pruners and leave a short stem. Pick at any color for culinary use. Harvest promptly once colored to reduce sunscald on upright fruit.
Q: What is the best way to store or preserve these peppers
Drying: Thin to medium walls dry well for colorful flakes or powder.
Freezing: Slice and tray freeze for quick use later.
Pickling and oils: Small pods pickle nicely and infuse vinegars or neutral oils with bright heat.
Q: Will peppers lose their heat when dried or cooked
Drying retains most heat. Cooking mellows it slightly, but pods remain distinctly hot.
Q: Are Black Olive peppers perennial
Yes in frost free Zones 10 to 12. In colder regions grow as annuals or overwinter indoors. Trim by one third and keep at 60 to 70°F in bright light.
Q: Why are my plants not setting fruit
Common causes are temperatures below 55°F or above 95°F, low light, drought, or excess nitrogen. Provide steady moisture, moderate feeding, and light afternoon shade during heat waves.
Q: Can they cross pollinate with other peppers
Yes with nearby Capsicum annuum. If saving seed, isolate by distance about 300 feet or bag blossoms and hand pollinate.
Q: How do I use them in the kitchen without overpowering a dish
Mince a small amount for salsas, stir fries, eggs, and noodle bowls. Dry for finishing flakes. They pair well with garlic, citrus, soy or tamari, sesame, and roasted tomato.
Q: Are Black Olive peppers ornamental as well as edible
Absolutely. Dark foliage and upright purple to red fruit make striking container and border plants while supplying real kitchen heat.
Q: Are they safe to handle and eat
Yes, but capsaicin can irritate skin and eyes. Wear gloves when processing larger batches, work in good ventilation, and wash hands and tools after handling.
Q: Why are my peppers not as hot as expected
Heat varies with climate, watering, and fertility. Slightly leaner conditions with even moisture and modest nitrogen usually produce hotter pods.
Black Olive belongs to a lineage that begins in the Indigenous homelands of the Americas. Thousands of years ago, Native farmers in what is now Mexico and Central America domesticated Capsicum annuum, stewarding countless shapes, flavors, and heats through careful selection and seed saving. From those American roots, peppers traveled across the Atlantic with early trade. They took hold in Europe, North Africa, and Asia, where gardeners continued the work of selection in new soils and cuisines.
Modern ornamental edible peppers arose as growers noticed and favored traits beyond heat and yield. Deep purple foliage, upright fruiting, and multistage color shifts came forward where sunlight, cool nights, and anthocyanin-rich lines met attentive seedkeepers. Black Olive reflects that contemporary selection: compact, tidy plants with near-black leaves and small conical pods that ripen from purple to red. It was shaped as much for beauty on the stoop and in containers as for usefulness in the kitchen.
Culturally, plants like Black Olive bridge display and daily cooking. In home gardens and market stalls, they serve as living color during summer, then supply small hot pods for pickles, chili oils, and flakes once the show is over. The variety has become popular with urban growers for its small footprint, and with florists and market gardeners who tuck pots into displays for instant contrast beside herbs and salad greens.
To grow Black Olive today is to participate in a long, living story. It honors the Indigenous domestication of chile peppers, acknowledges centuries of exchange that carried peppers into global kitchens, and celebrates modern seed stewards who select for both beauty and flavor. One plant can light up a porch and stock a pantry, keeping that shared tradition alive in a fresh, compact form.
Goal: Maintain the distinctive ornamental identity - compact plants with dark purple foliage and blooms, clusters of small round to oval pods that ripen purple-black → deep red, medium heat for annuum, and strong anthocyanin expression - while ensuring purity within C. annuum and excellent seed vigor.
1) Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Choose exemplars: Select 8 to 12 vigorous plants with compact, well branched habit. Foliage should show uniform purple to near black pigmentation on leaves, stems, and nodes, and flowers should be purple. Fruits should be marble to olive sized, round to slightly oval, often in clusters, coloring evenly through glossy purple-black before finishing red. Prioritize plants with steady set, firm fruit, and consistent medium heat.
Cull off-types: Exclude plants with mostly green foliage or white flowers, pods that skip the dark stage or remain dull olive, elongated or pointed fruits, thin walls that cave in at maturity, weak branching, very late or uneven ripening, or harsh, bitter heat. Remove plants with virus-like mosaics, chronic sunscald, or cracking.
Maintain breadth: Save seed from multiple mother plants to preserve intensity of purple foliage and flower color, consistent clustered fruit set, round fruit shape, and heat level.
2) Harvesting Seeds
Timing: Allow fruits to progress from purple-black to full red on plant for best maturity. Hold 5 to 10 days past full red when weather allows to complete embryo development.
Collection: Clip pods with sanitized snips to avoid tearing short pedicels and brittle branches. Keep each mother plant’s fruit labeled and separate. Photograph foliage and fruit at the purple stage to document anthocyanin expression for each mother.
3) Cleaning Seeds
Separation: Split fruits with a paring knife. Scrape seeds and placenta into a labeled fine sieve or bowl.
Rinse: Rinse gently with lukewarm water, rubbing to free placental threads until water runs clear and seeds sink.
Dry rub plus winnow option: With field dry fruit, crumble seed mass over mesh and winnow chaff. Finish with a quick rinse if needed for a polished lot.
Inspection: Remove all pith. Discard flat, pale, dark specked, or otherwise discolored seeds and any with off odors.
4) Drying Seeds
Method: Spread seeds in a single layer on labeled coffee filters, paper plates, or mesh screens.
Environment: Warm 70 to 85°F, 21 to 29°C, shaded, well ventilated space. Avoid direct sun and temperatures above 95°F, 35°C.
Duration: 7 to 14 days, stirring daily until seeds are hard and free flowing. Optionally equalize moisture by sealing 24 to 48 hours with fresh silica gel before final packing.
5) Storing Seeds
Packaging: Place fully dry seeds in paper envelopes inside an airtight jar or foil pouch with silica gel.
Conditions: Cool, dark, dry. Refrigerator 35 to 45°F, 2 to 7°C, recommended for longevity.
Viability: 3 to 5 years refrigerated, 5 to 8 plus years when ultra dry and frozen. Warm sealed containers to room temperature before opening to prevent condensation.
6) Testing Seed Viability
Paper towel test: Germinate 10 to 20 seeds on a damp towel in a vented bag at 78 to 82°F, 25 to 28°C. Read at 5 to 10 days.
Targets: At least 85 percent germination for fresh annuum seed.
Priming, optional: 30 to 60 minutes in 0.5 to 1 percent H₂O₂ or mild kelp solution can improve synchronization in older seed.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving
Isolation: Black Olive is C. annuum and will cross with other annuum types, including ornamentals and culinary peppers. Use 150 to 300 ft isolation. For foundation purity of purple traits and round fruit form, bag or cage selected branches or hand pollinate.
Pollinators: Encourage beneficials generally. For bagged branches, tap or gently vibrate flowers daily during bloom for reliable set.
Record keeping: Record plant IDs, isolation method, harvest dates, degree of purple foliage and flower color, timing of purple to red transition, fruit size class, and heat level. Photograph purple stage foliage and clusters plus full red fruit from each mother.
Selection cues: Favor plants with saturated purple foliage and flowers, clusters of round fruits that reliably pass through a glossy purple-black stage before red, medium heat with clean flavor, and firm fruits that resist sunscald and shriveling at full color.
Culinary Uses, showcase anthocyanin color with jalapeño-class utility
Fresh rings & dice (signature): Slice purple-black pods into thin rings for tacos, tostadas, ceviche, grain bowls, and charcuterie. The dark stage reads lightly fruity with medium heat and creates striking contrast on the plate.
Pickled “ink” rings: Quick-pickle purple-black slices with garlic, dill, mustard seed, and black peppercorns. The brine gradually shifts rings toward garnet while keeping dramatic jar appeal—ideal for deli sandwiches, pizza, and salad bars.
Roasted & peeled: Char whole pods over open flame or under a broiler until blistered; steam 10 minutes, peel where the skin slips, and slice. Fold into calabacitas (corn–squash–pepper), bean salads, omelets, and quesadillas for mellowed smoke and sweetness.
Salsa morada: Roast Black Olive with purple onion and tomatillo; crush on a molcajete for a mauve-tinged salsa with medium burn. Finish with lime and cilantro.
Chipotle-style powder: Smoke fully red pods low and slow, then dehydrate and grind to a ruby-brown chipotle powder. Expect berry-tinged, gently smoky aromatics suited to rubs and stews.
Chili oil & crisp: Gently bloom minced pods with garlic/shallot in hot oil; strain for clear oil or fold solids back for a crunchy topping for noodles, greens, and grilled squash.
Heat control tips: Most heat resides in the white placenta; scrape for gentler use. Add toward the end of cooking to preserve fresh fruit notes; seeds add texture more than heat.
Preservation and Pantry Value
Rapid dehydration: Thin–medium walls dry well for multi-hued flakes (purple-to-red tones) and powders. Store airtight and dark to protect color.
Fermentation: Produces bright, pourable hot sauces—use a portion of pods at red maturity to stabilize color; purple-stage fruit contributes subtle berry notes.
Freezer convenience: Freeze sliced rings or roasted strips flat; use from frozen in sautés, stews, and egg dishes.
Pickling longevity: Properly acidified rings maintain snap and color interest for months under refrigeration.
Flavor Benefits beyond heat
Classic jalapeño-like profile with a hint of dark fruit at the purple stage; sweetens as pods fully red.
Delivers visual drama and medium, clean heat in small amounts—useful for premium-looking jar goods and composed plates.
Garden and Ornamental Benefits
Compact plants with purple-tinged foliage and blossoms; clusters of roundish pods ripen green → purple-black → red.
High ornamental value for borders and containers while still supplying kitchen heat.
Productive with strong peduncles that resist drop; great for CSA bouquets and edible landscaping.
Traditional and Practical Uses (Indigenous foodways focus)
American domestication, modern pigment: While anthocyanin-rich coloration is a modern selection, Black Olive’s best uses—comal roasting, molcajete/metate grinding, smoking into chipotle, drying for powders—align with long-standing Indigenous practices that preserve chile flavor alongside maize, beans, and squash.
Maize-centered meals: Purple-stage salsas, pickles, and roasted strips accompany nixtamal staples (tortillas, tamales, pozole) and bean stews, echoing Indigenous mealways where chile is seasoning, nutrition, and story.
Community and storage: Dried flakes and brined rings extend harvest into winter, paralleling seasonal storage cycles maintained across Pueblo, Nahua, and other Indigenous communities.
Safety and Handling always
Wear gloves for batch slicing, fermenting, and smoking.
Ventilate when roasting or blooming in oil; capsaicin vapors irritate eyes and lungs.
Label jars/powders clearly (“medium heat”). Keep pickled products refrigerated once opened unless processed with a tested canning recipe.
Herbs & extras: cilantro, epazote, parsley; smoked paprika and annatto for color-forward rubs.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
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Alliance of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Hot Pepper - Black Olive
$200 USD
$300
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
A showpiece with bite. Black Olive (Capsicum annuum) is an ornamental edible distinguished by deep purple-black foliage and glossy fruit that shifts from inky violet to wine-red at maturity. Heat is lively and clean, typically 10,000 to 30,000 Scoville units, with bright peppery flavor that plays well in the kitchen.
Plants are compact and dramatic, usually 18 to 24 inches tall, with a tidy, upright habit that loads each node with blossoms and fruit. The leaves emerge green, then darken to near black in full sun, setting off clusters of small, conical pods held upright above the canopy. Pods average 1 to 2 inches, with thin to medium walls that dry quickly for flakes or powder. As they ripen, you can enjoy a full gradient on a single plant, from purple-black through mahogany to rich red.
Taste a slice and the heat arrives promptly, a quick spark that builds to medium-hot, balanced by fresh, green-herb notes that turn a little sweeter at full red. In the kitchen, mince for salsas and stir-fries, or dry for striking confetti-like flakes. The pods also shine in quick pickles and chili oils, where their color and brightness carry through.
Bred from ornamental-culinary lines of C. annuum and rooted in the species domesticated by Indigenous farmers of Mesoamerica, Black Olive brings modern garden drama without sacrificing usefulness. It is a reliable, heavy-setting variety that turns containers and borders into living art while supplying plenty of flavorful heat for everyday cooking.
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