Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
A feast for the eyes and the pan. Fish Pepper is a historic Capsicum annuum with variegated leaves, striped pods, and a bright, sea-friendly flavor that made it a favorite in Chesapeake seafood kitchens. Heat ranges from mild to medium-hot depending on maturity, with a clean, peppery snap that lifts creamy dishes and vinegars without overwhelming them.
Plants are compact and striking, usually 2 to 3 feet tall with mottled green-and-cream foliage. Every flush of blossoms gives way to short, tapered pods about 2 to 3 inches long that change color in painterly stages: pale green and cream, then striped and mottled, then orange, and finally red. Walls are medium-thin, which makes the pods quick to cook and ideal for drying into flakes with handsome speckling.
In the kitchen, fish peppers are famous for what they do at different stages. Pick immature pale pods for white sauces and chowders where color matters, or use ripe red pods for spicier relishes, pickles, and pepper oils. The flavor is bright and herbal with a light fruit note, perfect for seafood, crab cakes, oysters, and quick sautés. Dried flakes are beautiful in finishing salts and rubs, while fresh rings bring gentle fire to slaws and tacos.
The variety carries deep cultural roots. Fish pepper arose in African American and Afro-Indigenous foodways of the mid-Atlantic in the 1800s, especially in Black oyster houses and catering kitchens of Baltimore and Philadelphia. Seed was stewarded within those communities, then preserved through family seedkeepers and later shared with collectors, keeping the story alive for modern gardeners. To grow Fish Pepper is to honor that lineage and to bring a piece of Chesapeake culinary history to your garden.
Timing: Start seeds 8–10 weeks before last frost.
Depth: Sow seeds ¼" deep in sterile seed-starting mix.
Temperature: Keep medium 80–90°F (27–32°C) for best germination.
Germination Time: 10–21 days under optimal conditions.
Light: After sprouting, provide 14–16 hours of strong light daily.
Air Temperature: Maintain 70–80°F (21–27°C).
Potting Up: Transplant seedlings into larger pots at the first true leaf stage.
Feeding: Apply a ¼-strength balanced fertilizer weekly.
Soil Temperature & Transplant Timing
Do not transplant by calendar alone.
Check soil at 2–4" depth:
Must be at least 60–65°F (16–18°C) for several consecutive mornings.
Night air temperatures should stay at or above 55°F (13°C).
Ideal root-zone is 70–85°F (21–29°C) for vigorous growth.
How to check: insert a soil thermometer 2–4" deep, take early morning readings for a few days, then average.
Transplanting Outdoors
Hardening Off: Reduce shock by hardening off 5–7 days before transplant.
Location: Choose a site with full sun and rich, well-drained soil, pH 6.0–6.8.
Spacing: Plant 18–24" apart in rows 24–36" apart.
Support: Stake or cage plants to handle heavy fruit set.
Watering:
Provide 1 to 1½ inches of water per week, especially during dry spells.
Water deeply but infrequently to encourage strong roots.
Best method: use drip or soaker hoses at soil level to keep foliage dry and reduce disease risk.
If overhead watering is used, water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Heat note: slightly lean watering and fertilizer can raise perceived heat, while excess water and nitrogen can make peppers milder.
Fertilizing:
Feed a balanced fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks during vegetative growth.
Once plants flower and set fruit, switch to a low-nitrogen, higher-potassium formula to support heavy fruiting and brighter flavor.
Weeding and Mulching:
Keep weeds under control since they compete for nutrients, space, and water.
Use mulch, black plastic early and organic later, to:
retain soil moisture
suppress weeds
keep soil temperatures stable
Be careful when hand-weeding. Pepper roots are shallow and easily damaged, which can lead to blossom end rot.
Sun and Heat Management:
Grow in full sun for yield and heat development.
In extreme heat above 95°F provide light afternoon shade to improve fruit set.
Note for Fish Pepper: variegated foliage has less chlorophyll. Avoid severe stress and keep moisture steady to prevent sunscald.
Spacing and Support:
Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches apart.
Use stakes or small cages to support plants that are heavy with fruit.
Companion Planting:
Good companions: tomatoes, parsley, basil, carrots, okra, beans, cucumbers, marigolds.
Avoid: fennel and kohlrabi, which can stunt pepper growth.
Striped pods and variegated leaves pair nicely with green herbs in mixed beds.
Container Growing:
Use 7 to 10 gallon pots with high-quality potting mix and good drainage.
Containers dry faster, so check moisture daily in hot weather.
In midsummer, shade the pot sides to protect roots from overheating.
Additional Tips — Fish Pepper
Harvesting:
Pods can be picked at any stage. Pale cream and green striped pods give a milder bite that is perfect for white sauces. Heat and sweetness increase as fruit turns orange, then red. Use pruners to cut peppers and leave a short stem to avoid tearing branches, which protects the plant’s variegated growth.
Flavor and Nutrition:
Fish Pepper delivers bright, slightly sweet heat with a hint of green-herb flavor when underripe and a fuller, fruitier tone when red. Harvesting fully mature pods brings the best balance of sweetness and heat along with peak vitamin content.
Handling:
Gloves are optional for most people, but capsaicin oils can still irritate skin and eyes. Wash hands, cutting boards, and knives after processing. Take care when pruning or harvesting because the foliage is thin and variegated.
Storage and Preservation:
Drying: Thin walls dry well on screens or dehydrators. Grind into colorful flakes or powder.
Freezing: Freeze whole or sliced pods on a tray, then pack into bags for long keeping.
Pickling: Striped immature pods make striking jars and stay nicely crisp.
Vinegars and sauces: Excellent for pepper vinegar, seafood-friendly hot sauces, and chowder bases.
Kitchen Use:
Use mild striped pods for cream sauces, chowders, crab cakes, fried fish, and aioli. Riper orange and red pods brighten salsas, relishes, chili oils, and seafood stews. For balance, pair with lemon, garlic, parsley, and celery seed. Add in small amounts and taste as you go.
Garden Care Notes:
Variegated leaves have less chlorophyll, so keep moisture steady and avoid severe nitrogen stress. Light afternoon shade in extreme heat helps prevent sunscald on both foliage and pods. Mulch to keep soil cool and consistent.
Insects & Mites
Aphids (leaf curling, sticky honeydew or sooty mold)
Controls: Blast with water, insecticidal soap or neem oil; encourage lady beetles and lacewings.
Spider mites (fine stippling, webbing in heat or drought)
Controls: Increase humidity, hose undersides, horticultural oil or neem; release predatory mites if available.
Whiteflies (clouds when disturbed; honeydew)
Controls: Yellow sticky cards, vacuum in morning, insecticidal soap or neem.
Thrips (silvery scarring, distorted new growth; virus vectors)
Controls: Blue or yellow cards, remove weeds and spent blooms, spinosad or insecticidal soap.
Flea beetles (shot-hole damage on young leaves)
Controls: Row cover until flowering, trap crops, diatomaceous earth around stems.
Pepper weevil or fruit borers (warmer regions; premature fruit drop)
Controls: Prompt harvest, destroy dropped fruit, tight sanitation; consult local guidance for targeted traps.
Cutworms (seedlings severed at soil line)
Controls: Collars around stems, clear plant debris, handpick at dusk.
Caterpillars (chewed leaves or fruit)
Controls: Handpick; Bacillus thuringiensis, Bt, on small larvae.
Note for Fish Pepper: Variegated foliage has less chlorophyll and can stress more easily in heat or drought. Keep moisture steady and avoid harsh midday defoliation.
Diseases
Bacterial leaf spot (small water-soaked spots that turn brown; defoliation)
Prevention: Clean seed, avoid overhead watering, rotate 3+ years away from Solanaceae, sanitize tools.
Management: Remove infected leaves; copper sprays can protect new growth.
Anthracnose (sunken, moldy fruit lesions, often on ripe pods)
Prevention: Mulch to reduce splash, provide airflow, use drip irrigation.
Management: Remove infected fruit; use protectant fungicides labeled for peppers.
Phytophthora blight or root rot (sudden wilt, dark stem lesions, fruit rot in wet soils)
Prevention: Excellent drainage, raised beds, avoid low spots and over-irrigation; long rotations.
Management: Pull and discard severely affected plants; do not replant peppers in that spot the same season.
Powdery mildew (white powder on leaves late season)
Prevention: Airflow and spacing, avoid excess nitrogen.
Management: Remove worst leaves; approved biofungicides can suppress.
Verticillium or Fusarium wilts (one-sided yellowing or wilt, vascular browning)
Management: Rotate out of Solanaceae, solarize soil where feasible; remove plants. No in-plant cure.
Mosaic viruses (mottled, puckered leaves; stunting, often aphid or thrips vectored)
Prevention: Control vectors, rogue infected plants, do not handle tobacco before work, sanitize hands and tools.
Physiological & Environmental Issues, not infectious
Blossom end rot (dry, sunken black end on fruit)
Cause: Irregular moisture or root damage leads to calcium transport failure.
Fix: Keep moisture even, mulch, avoid root disturbance, steady feeding without excess nitrogen.
Poor fruit set
Cause: Heat above 95 F, nights below 55 F, low light, drought, excess nitrogen.
Fix: Provide light afternoon shade in heat waves, steady moisture, moderate fertilization.
Sunscald (white or tan patches on fruit after sudden full sun)
Fix: Maintain a healthy canopy; avoid heavy leaf removal. Variegated leaves can make plants more prone to scald, so keep soil moisture consistent.
Edema or water stress (blisters or corky patches)
Fix: Water on a rhythm; avoid big wet to dry swings.
Flavor or heat dilution
Note: Heavy water and high nitrogen can reduce heat. Modest stress, not wilting, concentrates capsaicin.
Monitoring & Prevention, quick checklist
Scout weekly and check the undersides of leaves and new growth.
Water at soil level with drip or soaker; if overhead is unavoidable, water in the morning.
Space plants and prune lightly for airflow; remove only problem leaves.
Mulch once soil is warm to stabilize moisture and block splash-borne disease.
Rotate 3+ years away from peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, and potatoes.
Sanitize tools and harvest promptly; discard diseased fruit. Do not compost if unsure.
Q: How hot is the Fish Pepper?
Typically mild to medium-hot, about 5,000–30,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Pale, unripe pods are milder; fully red pods are hotter.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
About 75–90 days from transplant to first ripe red pods. You can harvest pale striped pods earlier for traditional white sauces.
Q: How long does germination take?
Usually 10–21 days at 80–90°F (27–32°C). Cooler media slow and reduce germination.
Q: Do Fish Peppers need special soil conditions?
Rich, well-drained soil with pH 6.0–6.8 is ideal. Keep the root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C) for best growth.
Q: What spacing do Fish Peppers need?
Plant 18–24" apart in rows 24–36" apart to encourage airflow and steady yields.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Fish Pepper is self-pollinating, though good airflow or gently tapping blossoms can improve fruit set.
Q: Can I grow Fish Peppers in containers?
Yes. Use 7–10+ gallon pots with excellent drainage. Check moisture daily in hot weather.
Q: How many peppers will one plant produce?
Compact plants are prolific—expect dozens of pods per plant with steady harvesting.
Q: How do I harvest them safely?
Use pruners to cut pods with a short stem attached. Gloves are recommended when processing larger quantities.
Q: What’s the best way to store or preserve Fish Peppers?
Drying: Medium-thin walls dry well for speckled flakes or powder.
Pickling: Great at any stage; pale pods keep brines light.
Freezing: Freeze whole or sliced for later use.
Q: Will peppers lose their heat when dried or cooked?
Drying preserves most heat. Cooking softens the bite slightly; fully red pods remain noticeably hotter than pale pods.
Q: Are Fish Peppers perennial?
Yes in frost-free zones (10–12). Elsewhere grow as annuals or overwinter indoors in bright light at 60–70°F (16–21°C).
Q: Why aren’t my plants setting fruit?
Common causes are temps above 95°F (35°C) or nights below 55°F (13°C), low light, drought, or excess nitrogen. Provide light afternoon shade during heat waves and keep moisture even.
Q: Can Fish Peppers cross-pollinate with other peppers?
Yes, with nearby Capsicum annuum types (jalapeño, bell, cayenne, etc.). If saving seed, isolate by distance or bag blossoms.
Q: How do I use Fish Peppers in the kitchen without overpowering a dish?
Use pale pods for chowders, cream sauces, and seafood where color matters; use red pods for spicier relishes, pickles, oils, and flakes.
Q: Are Fish Peppers ornamental as well as edible?
Absolutely. Variegated leaves and striped pods make striking container or bed plants.
Q: Why are some leaves or shoots not variegated?
Occasional green “reversion” can happen. Prune out solid-green shoots to preserve the variegated habit.
Q: Any special care for variegated foliage?
Variegated leaves have less chlorophyll and can sunscald more easily—maintain steady moisture and give light afternoon shade in extreme heat.
Fish Pepper tells a story that begins with Indigenous domestication and continues through African American foodways along the Chesapeake. The species, Capsicum annuum, was first shaped by Indigenous peoples of Mesoamerica, especially in what is now central-eastern Mexico. Through trade, river routes, and coastal exchange, peppers traveled into the Caribbean and the Atlantic seaboard, where communities adapted them to local kitchens and climates.
In the 1800s, Black oyster houses and catering kitchens in Baltimore and Philadelphia refined a distinct line for seafood cookery. Cooks valued pale, striped pods that flavored chowders and cream sauces without staining them, then used the fully red pods when a hotter accent was wanted. Gardeners saved seed from plants that combined bright flavor with reliable yields, and they favored the striking leaves, variegated in green and cream, that made the plants ornamental as well as useful.
This pepper moved hand to hand through Afro-American and Afro-Indigenous networks, from backyard plots to church suppers and street markets. Families selected for traits that fit Chesapeake foodways, including crab and oyster dishes, vinegars, and pepper sauces. As commercial catalogs overlooked it, community seedkeepers preserved the line, proving that everyday culinary needs can guide long-term selection just as surely as formal breeding programs.
Today, Fish Pepper remains true to that heritage. Pods begin in cream and green stripes, turn orange, then ripen red as heat increases. Growing it honors the Indigenous origins of the species, the African American creativity that shaped this regional heirloom, and the seedkeeping traditions that kept it alive for modern gardens and tables.
Goal: Maintain the distinctive heirloom fish pepper identity, medium heat with pronounced flavor, 2 to 3.5 inch tapered pods showing striped and mottled variegation that ripen cream and green → orange → red, plus highly variegated foliage, while ensuring purity within C. annuum and excellent seed vigor.
1) Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Choose exemplars: Select 8 to 12 vigorous, disease-free plants with strong variegation in leaves and stems, including creamy white sectors and speckling on foliage. Fruits should be uniform jalapeño to small cayenne-like taper with visible striping or mottling at the immature stage and maintain patterning through color change. Prioritize plants with steady set, upright architecture, and consistent medium heat with aromatic flavor.
Cull off-types: Exclude plants with little to no foliar variegation, solid green foliage, pods lacking striping at the green stage, thin overly long stringy fruits, very thin walls, weak branching, very late or uneven ripening, or harsh, bitter heat. Remove plants with virus-like mosaics, chronic sunscald, or cracking.
Maintain breadth: Save seed from multiple mother plants to preserve both foliar variegation and fruit striping, since pattern intensity can segregate. Capture a range of well expressed, stable patterns.
2) Harvesting Seeds
Timing: For seed, include pods that have fully colored to red when possible, or at least fully orange with clear striping history recorded. Holding 5 to 10 days past color improves embryo completion. Also photograph representative immature striped pods from each mother to document pattern.
Collection: Clip pods with sanitized pruners. Select fully colored, sound fruit from each chosen plant and keep each mother plant’s lot labeled and separate. Tag plants whose foliage variegation is strongest so seed identity remains tied to that trait.
3) Cleaning Seeds
Separation: Slit pods lengthwise; scrape seeds and placenta into a labeled fine sieve or bowl.
Rinse: Rinse gently with lukewarm water, rubbing to remove placental threads until water runs clear and seeds settle.
Dry-rub plus winnow option: With field-dry pods, crumble seed mass over mesh and winnow chaff. Finish with a light rinse if needed.
Inspection: Remove pith. Discard flat, pale, or discolored seeds and any with off odors.
4) Drying Seeds
Method: Spread seeds in a single layer on labeled coffee filters, paper plates, or mesh screens.
Environment: Warm 70 to 85°F, 21 to 29°C, shaded, well ventilated area. Avoid direct sun and temperatures above 95°F, 35°C.
Duration: 7 to 14 days, stirring daily until seeds are hard and freely flowing. Optionally finish with 24 to 48 hours sealed over fresh silica gel to equalize moisture.
5) Storing Seeds
Packaging: Place fully dry seeds in paper envelopes inside an airtight jar or foil pouch with silica gel.
Conditions: Cool, dark, dry. Refrigerator 35 to 45°F, 2 to 7°C, recommended for longevity.
Viability: 3 to 5 years refrigerated, 5 to 8 plus years when ultra dry and frozen. Warm sealed containers to room temperature before opening to prevent condensation.
6) Testing Seed Viability
Paper towel test: Germinate 10 to 20 seeds on a damp towel in a vented bag at 78 to 82°F, 25 to 28°C. Read at 5 to 10 days.
Targets: At least 85 percent germination for fresh annuum seed.
Priming, optional: 30 to 60 minutes in 0.5 to 1 percent H₂O₂ or a mild kelp solution can synchronize older seed.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving
Isolation: Fish Pepper is C. annuum and crosses readily with other annuum types. Use 150 to 300 ft isolation. For foundation purity of variegation and striping, bag or cage selected branches or hand pollinate.
Pollinators: Encourage beneficials generally. For bagged branches, tap or gently vibrate flowers daily during bloom to ensure set.
Record keeping: Record plant IDs, isolation method, harvest dates, foliage variegation intensity, fruit striping consistency, heat level, and any off-types. Photograph immature striped pods and fully colored pods from each mother next to a ruler.
Selection cues: Prioritize plants with strong foliar variegation and pods that show bold cream and green striping at the immature stage, progressing cleanly through orange to red. Retain plants with medium, pleasant heat and good wall thickness for size.
Culinary Uses, Chesapeake heritage pepper with creamy seafood affinity
Cream sauces & chowders (signature): Mince fresh fish peppers (green or red stage) and fold into cream or butter sauces for oysters, crab, and fish—historic to African American and Black catering kitchens in the Chesapeake.
Pickled rings: Slice multicolored pods into tangy vinegar brines; jars brighten fish fries, hushpuppies, and sandwiches.
Hot sauces: Ferment red-stage pods with garlic and onion; blend into a tangy sauce for seafood boils and fried catfish.
Salsas & relishes: Mince into tomato- or corn-based relishes; spoon over fried fish, beans, or grilled vegetables.
Roasted strips: Char whole pods, steam, peel, and dice for cornbread mix-ins or succotash-style dishes.
Powder & flakes: Dehydrate red pods; grind into powder for crab spice blends, chowder bases, or collard greens.
Heat control tips: Medium-hot; scrape placenta for gentler heat. Add late to preserve fresh, grassy notes.
Preservation and Pantry Value
Pickling anchor: Striking variegated pods pickle beautifully; color and flavor hold for months.
Dehydration: Thin walls dry quickly into powders/flakes with ornamental speckling.
Fermentation: Produces bright, pourable sauces that balance seafood sweetness.
Freezer fallback: Freeze deseeded strips; use in chowders and sautés directly from frozen.
Flavor Benefits beyond heat
Distinct grassy-herbal annuum heat with clean bite; complements cream, butter, and seafood.
Adds Chesapeake authenticity to modern kitchens.
Garden and Ornamental Benefits
Variegated foliage and striped pods in cream, green, orange, and red; stunning edible ornamental.
Compact plants yield heavily for pickling, powder, and sauce production.
Perfect for market gardens—eye-catching and functional.
Traditional and Practical Uses (Indigenous & African diasporic focus)
African American heirloom: Fish Pepper is tied to Black seedkeeping and Chesapeake foodways of the 19th century, especially in African American catering families who seasoned seafood dishes with it.
Indigenous culinary resonances: Dishes pairing fish, maize, and chile echo Indigenous American foodways where chile, corn, and protein from rivers/sea are central. Fish Pepper sits at a cultural meeting point of Indigenous staples and African diasporic cooking traditions.
Communal identity: Its ornamental beauty and culinary role highlight peppers as more than food—they are culture, heritage, and resilience.
Safety and Handling always
Gloves advised for chopping and fermenting.
Ventilate when roasting.
Label jars/powders clearly (“medium–hot”).
Suggested Pairings
Seafood focus: crab, oysters, fish, shrimp.
Savory: onion, garlic, celery, parsley, thyme.
Starches: cornbread, rice, potatoes, hominy.
Bright: vinegar, lemon, tomato.
Herbs & extras: dill, bay, mustard seed for pickles; Old Bay–style spice blends.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
Payment & Security
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Alliance of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Hot Pepper - Fish Pepper
$200 USD
$350
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
A feast for the eyes and the pan. Fish Pepper is a historic Capsicum annuum with variegated leaves, striped pods, and a bright, sea-friendly flavor that made it a favorite in Chesapeake seafood kitchens. Heat ranges from mild to medium-hot depending on maturity, with a clean, peppery snap that lifts creamy dishes and vinegars without overwhelming them.
Plants are compact and striking, usually 2 to 3 feet tall with mottled green-and-cream foliage. Every flush of blossoms gives way to short, tapered pods about 2 to 3 inches long that change color in painterly stages: pale green and cream, then striped and mottled, then orange, and finally red. Walls are medium-thin, which makes the pods quick to cook and ideal for drying into flakes with handsome speckling.
In the kitchen, fish peppers are famous for what they do at different stages. Pick immature pale pods for white sauces and chowders where color matters, or use ripe red pods for spicier relishes, pickles, and pepper oils. The flavor is bright and herbal with a light fruit note, perfect for seafood, crab cakes, oysters, and quick sautés. Dried flakes are beautiful in finishing salts and rubs, while fresh rings bring gentle fire to slaws and tacos.
The variety carries deep cultural roots. Fish pepper arose in African American and Afro-Indigenous foodways of the mid-Atlantic in the 1800s, especially in Black oyster houses and catering kitchens of Baltimore and Philadelphia. Seed was stewarded within those communities, then preserved through family seedkeepers and later shared with collectors, keeping the story alive for modern gardeners. To grow Fish Pepper is to honor that lineage and to bring a piece of Chesapeake culinary history to your garden.
The taste is great and the tomato is yellow in color 1-2 lb tomatoes.
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Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
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Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
