Seeds: When properly stored, planted, and cared for, we guarantee reasonable germination and true-to-type growth for one year from purchase.
Non-seed products: Free from defects in materials and workmanship for 30 days from shipment.
Excludes factors outside our control (extreme weather, pests, gardener error). If something’s off, contact us—we’ll make it right with a replacement, repair, or refund.
USDA “bioengineered (BE)” foods are those with detectable genetic material that was modified using in vitro recombinant DNA (rDNA) techniques, in ways
not obtainable through conventional breeding or found in nature. The USDA’s National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard uses “bioengineered” as the nationwide labeling term.
Detectable modified genetic material in the final food
Created via in vitro rDNA techniques (e.g., gene transfer)
Modifications not achievable through conventional breeding or nature
—seeds / pkt
( ~ g )
Description
Clean, bright heat with classic Japanese character. Yatsufusa, the traditional togarashi pepper, brings a focused warmth and a citrusy, peppercorn-like snap that wakes up noodles, grilled meats, tempura salts, and rice bowls. Dried and ground, it becomes the backbone of house-made shichimi and ichimi togarashi, adding color and lift without burying other flavors.
The plants are tidy and productive, typically 18 to 24 inches tall with an upright, well-branched habit that loads each node with clusters of slim, tapered pods. Glossy green foliage frames the fruit beautifully, and the upright pods point skyward for easy harvest. Pods average 2 to 3 inches, thin walled and smooth, maturing from bright green to lacquer red. Those thin walls dry quickly for pristine flakes and powder, and the compact habit makes Yatsufusa a natural for containers and tight garden rows.
Bite into a ripe pod and you’ll get a quick, clean rise of heat riding over fresh chili aroma with hints of citrus and toasted seed. In the kitchen, a few rings sharpen stir fries and yakitori; whole pods infuse oils and vinegars; and dried pods grind into a vivid, brick-red seasoning perfect for spice blends, furikake, ramen toppings, and chili salts. The flavor stays lively whether fresh, dried, or lightly toasted.
Rooted in centuries of Japanese cooking and market spice craft, Yatsufusa is a true culinary heirloom of the togarashi tradition—compact, prolific, and purpose-built for drying into fragrant flakes and powder. Grow it for dependable harvests and the authentic taste that turns everyday dishes into signature favorites.
Timing: Start seeds 8–10 weeks before last frost (cool/short seasons: lean to 10 weeks).
Depth: Sow ¼" (6 mm) deep in sterile seed-starting mix; firm lightly and mist.
Temperature (germination): Medium 80–88°F (27–31°C); annuum germinates well in this band. Use heat mat + thermostat.
Germination Time: 7–14 days typical; allow up to 21 days for stragglers.
Moisture & air: Even moisture; vent domes daily. Avoid waterlogging.
Light (post-sprout): 14–16 hrs/day strong light; keep fixtures 2–4" above canopy.
Air temperature (post-sprout): Days 70–80°F (21–27°C); nights 62–70°F (17–21°C).
Potting Up: First true leaf → 2–3" cells; then 4" pots before transplant. Slightly deeper set each step to stabilize.
Feeding: Begin ¼-strength balanced fertilizer weekly once true leaves expand; step to ½-strength after pot-up if growth pales.
Airflow/conditioning: Gentle fan builds sturdy stems and lowers disease pressure.
Soil Temperature & Transplant Timing
Plant out by soil temp, not date. Check 2–4" deep at dawn for 3–5 days:
Minimum 60–65°F (16–18°C) soil; night air ≥55°F (13°C).
Ideal root zone 70–85°F (21–29°C) for fast establishment.
How to check: Soil thermometer at planting depth; average several mornings.
Transplanting Outdoors
Hardening Off: 5–7 days. Start in bright shade, add an hour of sun per day.
Site: Full sun; well-drained, moderately rich soil, pH 6.0–6.8. Yatsufusa colors and dries best with good airflow.
Bed Prep: Mix in 1–2" (2.5–5 cm) compost and a balanced organic fertilizer; avoid excess N (leafy, slow to color).
Spacing: 14–18" (35–45 cm) between plants; 24–30" (60–75 cm) between rows. Slender plants, but many pods—give room for airflow and harvest access.
Support: Usually self-supporting; a light stake or twine line helps in windy sites and when pods load up.
Mulch: Apply after soil warms to stabilize moisture and suppress weeds; black plastic/woven fabric accelerates earliness.
Watering: Consistent but not heavy—~1" (25 mm)/week. Slightly drier late season aids drying on the plant (avoid severe stress).
Season Extension: Floating row cover early (remove at bloom) speeds growth; reflective mulch improves color in cool summers.
Variety-Specific Notes (Yatsufusa)
Purpose-grown for drying: Thin walls, uniform pods, and upright habit suit strings and quick dehydration. Harvest when fully red for best flavor.
Crop time: 65–85 days from transplant to first red pods, then continuous flushes.
Sun & airflow: Prioritize airflow to prevent fungal spots on dense clusters; avoid overhead irrigation late day.
Troubleshooting
Weak set or small pods: Too much nitrogen or low light—reduce N, increase light, ensure full sun.
Tip burn or pale leaves: Consider Ca/Mg supplement and steady moisture.
Uneven ripening in cool spells: Use black mulch and prune a few inner leaves to improve light/air around clusters.
Post-rain splitting near harvest: Resume even watering earlier in season; pick just-ripe pods ahead of storms and finish drying under cover.
How to Grow — Yatsufusa (Japanese Togarashi) (Capsicum annuum)
Seed Starting & Transplant Timing
Start indoors 6–10 weeks before last frost—annuum germinates readily but still benefits from warm media.
Germination: 78–85°F (25–29°C) on a heat mat speeds emergence (7–14 days typical). Cooler media slows and staggers sprout.
Lighting: 14–16 hours/day under LED/T5 lights; maintain 2–4" clearance and a small fan for sturdy stems.
First feed & pot-up: Begin ¼-strength balanced fertilizer at first true leaves; pot up to 3–4" containers when roots fill cells.
Harden off 5–7 days.
Transplant window: After nights are >55°F (13°C) and soil >60°F (16°C). Yatsufusa is more forgiving of cool snaps than chinense, but warm roots still accelerate production.
Soil Preparation
Target pH: 6.2–6.8 in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
Amendments: Mix in 2–3" compost and a light organic base charge (e.g., 4-4-4). Avoid heavy, fresh manures (excess N delays flowering).
Bed warm-up: Black mulch or landscape fabric helps early vigor and keeps clusters off damp soil.
Watering
Provide 1–1½ inches of water per week, especially during dry spells.
Water deeply but infrequently to encourage strong root growth.
Best method: Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water at soil level, reducing wet foliage and minimizing disease risk.
If overhead watering is used, water early in the day so foliage dries before evening.
Note on heat levels: Less water and fertilizer often intensify heat, while excess water/fertilizer can make peppers milder.
Fertilizing
Start with a balanced fertilizer every 2–3 weeks during vegetative growth.
Once plants flower and set fruit, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula to support heavy fruiting and brighter flavor.
For long, uniform pods, avoid late surges of nitrogen that cause leafy growth and thin walls.
Weeding & Mulching
Keep weeds controlled—they steal moisture/nutrients from shallow pepper roots.
Mulch (black plastic early, organic later) to:
Retain soil moisture
Suppress weeds
Stabilize soil temperatures
Hand-weed with care—root disturbance can reduce set and increase BER risk.
Sun & Heat Management
Full sun (6–8+ hrs) maximizes yield and clean heat.
When highs exceed 95°F (35°C), provide light afternoon shade to maintain flower viability; steady moisture prevents blossom drop.
Spacing & Support
Space 18–24" apart in rows 24–36" apart.
Yatsufusa forms upright clusters; a low ring stake or small cage keeps heavily loaded branches from lodging, improves airflow, and promotes even coloring.
Companion Planting
Good companions: Tomatoes, parsley, basil, carrots, okra, beans, cucumbers.
Avoid: Fennel and kohlrabi, which can stunt growth.
Add alyssum, dill, coriander to attract hoverflies and parasitoids; these reduce aphids/thrips and aid pollination for tight cluster sets.
Container Growing
Use 5–7+ gallon pots (10 gal for maximum clusters) with a high-quality, free-draining mix.
Containers dry faster—check daily.
Shade pot sides in midsummer to prevent root overheating; fabric pots help keep roots aerated and productive.
Pruning & Training
Minimal pruning—tip-pinch once early to increase branching for more clusters. Later, remove only interior congestion to keep airflow high. Avoid heavy cuts mid-season.
Season Extension
Low tunnels or row cover accelerate early growth; remove or vent during bloom to allow pollinators. In shoulder seasons, light frost cloth preserves late flushes.
Harvest & Seed Saving
Expect first harvest 65–80 days from transplant (green stage) and 80–95 days to full red.
Cut, don’t pull—dense clusters tear easily if yanked.
For seed, select fully red, straight, typical pods from vigorous plants. Dry seeds 7–10 days; store cool/dry. Isolate from other annuum cayennes for truest Yatsufusa form and heat.
Stage options: Harvest at glossy green for brighter, grassy heat or allow pods to turn fire-engine red for traditional togarashi spice with fuller sweetness.
Clean cuts: Use fine-tip pruners to snip clusters, leaving short stems—annuum pedicels can tear if yanked, reducing future flowering.
Batch strategy: For drying strings and shichimi blends, schedule one or two uniform red harvests late season; for stir-fries and tempura, keep a steady trickle of young green pods earlier.
Shade cure: After picking red pods, air-cure 2–4 days in a single layer out of direct sun to finish sugars and stabilize color before dehydration.
Flavor & Nutrition
Profile: Snappy, clean heat with herbal, peppery brightness when green; sweeter, chili-raisin undertones when red and dried.
Nutrient notes: Red fruit concentrate vitamin C, carotenoids, and phenolics that contribute to color and antioxidant value.
Kitchen heat control: De-rib and seed for gentler heat; to keep sharp bite for ramen oils, leave the placenta intact.
Handling
Moderate but assertive: Wear light gloves when slicing lots of pods or making chili oil—capsaicin residues can still sting eyes and lips.
Clean transitions: Rinse boards/knives in hot soapy water, then a splash of vinegar to cut oils before switching to delicate items like fish or fruit.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh hold: Refrigerate unwashed in a paper-lined container; moisture control keeps skins taut for a week+ at peak.
Traditional drying (ichimi togarashi):
Thread whole red pods on cotton string and hang in a shaded, breezy area; or
Dehydrate at 115–120°F (46–49°C) to retain color and aroma; grind just before use for maximum fragrance.
Chili oil: Gently warm crushed dried Yatsufusa in neutral oil (off heat ~250°F / 120°C), steep, then strain and refrigerate; use within a week for best quality.
Freezing: For quick weeknight use, slice and freeze portions flat; excellent for stir-fries and noodles.
Kitchen Use
Classic Japanese uses: Shichimi togarashi for udon/soba; ichimi for ramen and donburi; togarashi-salt for yakitori and tempura dusting.
Modern crossovers: Chili-citrus gremolata for seafood; togarashi-maple butter for roasted squash; chili-garlic oil for gyoza.
Flavor pairings: Citrus (yuzu, lemon), sesame, soy, miso, ginger, nori, and grilled meats amplify its clean heat.
Growing & Pruning Tips
Compact, cluster-heavy habit: Train with a low ring stake or small cage; clusters can weigh down lateral branches.
Sun & airflow: Provide 6–8 hours of sun and maintain spacing; light tip-pinching early can increase branching for more clusters.
Set reliability: Annuum sets well, but extremes >95°F (35°C) or nights <55°F (13°C) drop blossoms—add 30–40% shade cloth during heat spikes.
Containers & Watering
Container size: 5–7+ gallons works well; larger pots give longer, more uniform pods.
Moisture: Keep even moisture—erratic cycles toughen skins and reduce sweetness. Mulch to stabilize root zone temps.
Companion Planting & Pollinators
Beneficials: Interplant with basil, coriander, and alyssum to draw hoverflies and parasitic wasps that help manage aphids and thrips. Flowers also encourage bee visitation for heavier set.
Seed Saving
True-to-type pods: Select from uniform clusters with typical slim, straight pods.
Isolation: Separate from other annuum chiles (esp. cayennes) if you want to preserve the classic Yatsufusa heat/shape; or bag flower clusters to ensure purity.
Dry & store: Air-dry seeds 7–10 days; bottle with a desiccant in a cool, dark place.
Q: How hot is Yatsufusa togarashi?
Generally 30,000–50,000 SHU. Clean, quick heat suited to drying and powder.
Q: How long does it take to mature?
About 70–95 days from transplant. Pods ripen from green to bright red.
Q: How long does germination take?
7–14 days at 75–85°F. Warmer soils speed emergence.
Q: Does it need special soil conditions?
Well-drained, fertile soil, pH 6.2–6.8. Keep consistent moisture but avoid soggy roots.
Q: What spacing should I use?
14–18 inches between plants, 24–30 inches between rows. Plants are compact but prolific.
Q: Do I need more than one plant for pollination?
No. Self-pollinating, though airflow helps set in humid conditions.
Q: Can I grow Yatsufusa in containers?
Yes. A 5–7 gallon pot works well. Provide full sun and steady feeding.
Q: How many peppers per plant?
Often 50–150 slender pods since fruits set in upright clusters.
Q: How do I harvest safely?
Snip clusters when pods turn fully red. Gloves are helpful if skin is sensitive.
Q: Best ways to store or preserve?
Dry whole strings under cover, then grind for togarashi powder, or use in shichimi blends. Freezing works for fresh use.
Q: Does drying change the heat or flavor?
Drying concentrates both, giving a clean, bright heat that suits noodle toppings and soups.
Q: Is it perennial?
Usually grown as an annual. Can be overwintered indoors in warm bright conditions.
Q: Why are my pods not pointing upward?
Insufficient light or heavy nitrogen can cause drooping. Provide full sun and moderate feeding.
Q: Can it cross with other peppers?
Yes within C. annuum. Isolate plants if you plan to save seed.
Q: How do I use it without overwhelming a dish?
Use a pinch of dried flakes or a few thin slices. Add at the end for aroma or early for integrated heat.
Q: Is it ornamental?
Very. Upright clusters of scarlet pods create a firework effect in beds and pots.
Q: Is it safe to handle and eat?
Yes. Use gloves if sensitive, and wash hands after handling.
Q: Why are the pods thin or small?
Crowding or nutrient stress. Thin plants for light penetration and feed lightly with a balanced fertilizer.
The ancestors of Yatsufusa, like all chiles, first took root in the Americas, where Indigenous peoples cultivated and revered them as food, medicine, and cultural symbol. When Portuguese traders carried peppers across the oceans in the sixteenth century, they reached Japan in an age of transformation, when new crops and ideas were being woven into the fabric of local life. There, Japanese farmers and cooks adapted the chile to their own landscapes and tastes, selecting for varieties that thrived in temperate climates and fit harmoniously into traditional cuisine. Among these, a slim, upward-pointing type known as Yatsufusa emerged, destined to become the classic togarashi pepper.
In early Japanese kitchens, Yatsufusa was dried and ground into powders that seasoned noodles, soups, and pickled vegetables. Its heat was moderate but insistent, cutting through the richness of broths and the sweetness of miso. Herbalists and healers also employed the pepper, believing it could stimulate circulation and fortify the body against cold. Farmers selected pods that grew in clusters pointing skyward, a trait that symbolized vigor and abundance. Over time, this shape became a visual hallmark of the pepper, its form as distinctive as its role in Japanese foodways.
The pepper’s integration into culture was not only culinary but also linguistic. Togarashi became the Japanese word for chile itself, and Yatsufusa was often the type that defined it. Families strung the peppers to dry under eaves, creating scarlet garlands that were both practical and decorative. Over generations, the pepper became an ingredient in shichimi togarashi, the seven-spice blend that remains a staple of Japanese cuisine, combining chile with sesame, citrus peel, and seaweed. In this blend, Yatsufusa contributed both heat and color, binding old and new elements into a flavor profile uniquely Japanese.
In the modern era, Yatsufusa peppers continued to be cultivated widely, both for home use and for commercial spice production. Their adaptability allowed them to grow from Hokkaido to Kyushu, making them a true national pepper. As global chili enthusiasm expanded, Yatsufusa gained recognition as an early example of how a crop born in the Americas could be transformed by another culture into something distinctly its own. Its upright clusters became iconic, appearing in illustrations and seed catalogs as a symbol of Japanese chile culture.
Today, Yatsufusa is grown not only in Japan but also by gardeners worldwide who appreciate its historical significance and culinary versatility. Its pods are slender, bright, and fiery enough to make their presence felt without overwhelming a dish. It remains central to shichimi blends, noodle toppings, and tsukemono pickles, and its dried powder is a common sight on tables across Japan. For growers, the pepper is a link to both Indigenous American origins and centuries of Japanese adaptation.
To cultivate Yatsufusa is to honor a double heritage — the Indigenous peoples of the Americas who first domesticated chiles, and the Japanese farmers and cooks who reshaped them into togarashi. It is a living emblem of cultural exchange, proof that a plant can cross oceans and centuries yet remain true to its power to flavor, heal, and inspire.
Goal: Preserve the upright, clustered fruiting habit, slender hot pods (typically drying to red for shichimi/togarashi blends), and the cultivar’s compact, productive plant form—while keeping the line pure within C. annuum.
1) Selecting Plants for Seed Saving
Choose exemplars: Select 6–12 vigorous, disease-free plants that show the distinct upright clusters (often 5–7+ pods per node), uniform slender pods, and a tidy, well-branched canopy. Flavor should be clean, with bright heat and minimal bitterness when fully red.
Cull off-types: Exclude plants with lax/pendant fruiting habit, overly curved or thick pods, poor set, or off flavors. Remove any with virus-like mosaics or chronic sunscald/cracking.
Maintain diversity: Save seed from multiple mother plants to retain the true cluster trait and avoid narrowing.
2) Harvesting Seeds
Timing: For best seed maturity, allow pods to ripen fully red on the plant; if weather allows, hold clusters 7–10 days past full color.
Collection: Cut entire ripe clusters with snips to avoid snapping brittle nodes. Select dry, vivid red pods with firm walls and no blemishes. Keep lots labeled by plant.
3) Cleaning Seeds
Separation: Slit pods lengthwise; tap/scrape seeds and placenta into a labeled bowl or sieve.
Rinse: Gently rinse with lukewarm water to remove remaining placenta.
Optional dry-rub method (annuum-friendly): For very dry pods, crumble the seed mass over a fine mesh and winnow chaff with a light fan; finish with a brief water rinse if needed.
Inspection: Remove pith fragments; discard shriveled or discolored seeds.
4) Drying Seeds
Method: Spread seeds in a single layer on labeled coffee filters or mesh screens.
Environment: Warm, well-ventilated, shaded area at 70–85°F (21–29°C); avoid direct sun and high heat (>95°F / 35°C).
Duration: 7–14 days, stirring daily until seeds are hard and free-flowing.
5) Storing Seeds
Packaging: Place fully dry seeds in paper envelopes inside an airtight jar/foil pouch with silica gel.
Conditions: Cool, dark, dry storage—refrigerator 35–45°F (2–7°C) extends life.
Viability: Typically 3–5 years refrigerated; 5–8+ years if ultra-dry and frozen. Always let containers warm sealed before opening to avoid condensation uptake.
6) Testing Seed Viability
Paper towel test: Germinate 10–20 seeds on a damp towel in a vented bag at 78–82°F (25–28°C) (slightly lower temp is fine for annuum); read at 5–10 days.
Targets: ≥85% is common for fresh annuum seed. Older lots may benefit from a 30–60 min soak in 0.5–1% H₂O₂ prior to testing.
Tips for Successful Seed Saving
Isolation: Yatsufusa is C. annuum and can cross with other annuum types (jalapeño, serrano, cayenne, sweets). Use 150–300 ft (45–90 m) isolation from other annuum varieties. For commercial-grade purity, bag/cage select clusters or hand-pollinate.
Pollinators & set: Encourage pollinators generally; for bagged clusters, tap/vibrate daily during bloom. The erect habit benefits from gentle shaking to move pollen within clusters.
Record keeping: Note plant IDs, isolation method, harvest dates, cluster size (pods/cluster), pod length/diameter, earliness, and any off-types. Photos of clusters help document the true Yatsufusa look.
Drying use synergy: Because Yatsufusa is often dried for spice, consider saving seed from pods destined for drying—the driest, fully red pods typically have the most mature seed.
Culinary Uses, traditional spice chile for blends and broths
Shichimi togarashi (signature): Dry pods, remove stems/seeds (reserve some seeds if extra heat desired), and grind with sesame seed, dried citrus peel (yuzu/orange), nori/aonori, ginger, and sanshō. Sprinkle on noodles, grilled fish, yakitori, tempura, and rice.
Tsukemono & quick pickles: Use fresh or dried pods in cucumber/daikon pickles; slice thin or pierce whole pods to perfume brine with steady, medium heat.
Broths & hot pots: Drop whole dried pods into miso soups, nabe, and clear broths to infuse warmth; remove before serving for delicate balance.
Stir-fries & noodle finishes: Slice or crumble dried pod into yakisoba, fried rice, or vegetable stir-fries; bloom briefly in oil with garlic/ginger/scallion.
Infused oils & vinegars: Steep crushed pods in sesame or neutral oil for chili oil; or in rice vinegar for a clean table splash.
Powder & flakes: Grind to fine powder for dusting grilled meats or roasted vegetables. Start at ⅛ tsp per serving.
Heat control tips: Heat is clean and medium-hot; adjust by pod count. Bloom gently—overheating can scorch and turn bitter.
Preservation and Pantry Value
Made for drying: Thin, slender pods dry rapidly whole or slit lengthwise; ideal for strings and pantry bundles.
Powder longevity: Store whole pods and grind fresh to preserve citrus-bright aroma; keep airtight and dark with a desiccant.
Freezer fallback: Freeze whole red pods; crumble from frozen into soups or sautés.
Ferments (optional): Dried-then-rehydrated Yatsufusa can join chili pastes; flavor stays clean without smoke.
Flavor Benefits beyond heat
Straight, clean annuum spice that supports—not dominates—aromatics like citrus peel, sesame, and sanshō.
Reliable “clarity pepper” for blends; adds color and sparkle without fruit heaviness.
Garden and Ornamental Benefits
Upright plants with many slender pods ripening green → glossy red.
Uniform size favors even drying and consistent powder.
Productive in rows or containers; easy to string-dry for kitchen décor and convenience.
Traditional and Practical Uses (Indigenous Americas context & Japanese adoption)
American domesticate, Japanese craft: Though iconic in Japan, Capsicum annuum is an Indigenous American crop. After its arrival in East Asia, regional kitchens developed techniques—air-drying, roasting, grinding—that parallel Indigenous American practices (comal toasting, sun-drying, metate grinding) in purpose: making flavor portable and storable.
Citrus-pepper synergy: The classic marriage of chile with dried citrus/sanshō in togarashi mirrors Indigenous American pairings of chile with herbs and seeds (e.g., epazote, pumpkin seed) to build layered condiments for maize-centered meals.
Cross-table compatibility: Yatsufusa powders season rice and noodles as readily as nixtamal staples (tortillas, tamales, pozole) in fusion and diaspora cooking—honoring chile’s American origins across global cuisines.
Safety and Handling always
Gloves recommended for stringing and grinding; avoid inhaling dust.
Ventilate when blooming in oil. Clearly label powders (“medium–hot”).
Use sterilized jars for shelf-stable chili oils; refrigerate after opening if not acidified.
Suggested Pairings
Japanese pantry: soy, miso, mirin, rice vinegar, sesame, nori/aonori, sanshō.
Protein & starch: tofu, chicken, fish, soba, udon, ramen, rice.
Indigenous staples crosswalk: dust over beans, roasted squash, and fresh tortillas for a clean heat accent.
Shipped from U.S.A.
Our seeds are grown and sourced from the US. They're then packed and shipped from Colerain NC.
Triple tested
We regularly test the quality and germination rate of our seeds. We're so confident that our seeds are backed by a 1 year warranty!
Soil Readiness
for Pepper Plants (Capsicum spp.)
Where to get a soil test
Best option: your state’s Cooperative Extension soil testing lab.
Tip: Arid/alkaline regions (e.g., AZ, NM, UT, parts of CA) often use Olsen (bicarbonate) for phosphorus.
Interprets P by extractant; assumes ppm. Results are approximate.
Enter at least one value above, then Calculate.
Summary
Recommended Amendments (per 100 sq ft)
How to Use
Mix P & K sources into top 3–6″ a week or two before planting.
If pH is low, apply lime 3–4 weeks pre-plant (or fall/winter).
Side-dress peppers with ~0.1 lb N / 100 sq ft at first bloom & fruit set.
Add 1–2″ finished compost yearly to build organic matter.
Container mix? Use a peat/coco-based mix with compost and slow-release organic fertilizer; pH is usually already correct.
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Alliance of Native Seedkeepers
Pepper Seeds - Hot - Yatsufusa (Japanese Togarashi)
$200 USD
$600
Unit price /
Unavailable
Description
Clean, bright heat with classic Japanese character. Yatsufusa, the traditional togarashi pepper, brings a focused warmth and a citrusy, peppercorn-like snap that wakes up noodles, grilled meats, tempura salts, and rice bowls. Dried and ground, it becomes the backbone of house-made shichimi and ichimi togarashi, adding color and lift without burying other flavors.
The plants are tidy and productive, typically 18 to 24 inches tall with an upright, well-branched habit that loads each node with clusters of slim, tapered pods. Glossy green foliage frames the fruit beautifully, and the upright pods point skyward for easy harvest. Pods average 2 to 3 inches, thin walled and smooth, maturing from bright green to lacquer red. Those thin walls dry quickly for pristine flakes and powder, and the compact habit makes Yatsufusa a natural for containers and tight garden rows.
Bite into a ripe pod and you’ll get a quick, clean rise of heat riding over fresh chili aroma with hints of citrus and toasted seed. In the kitchen, a few rings sharpen stir fries and yakitori; whole pods infuse oils and vinegars; and dried pods grind into a vivid, brick-red seasoning perfect for spice blends, furikake, ramen toppings, and chili salts. The flavor stays lively whether fresh, dried, or lightly toasted.
Rooted in centuries of Japanese cooking and market spice craft, Yatsufusa is a true culinary heirloom of the togarashi tradition—compact, prolific, and purpose-built for drying into fragrant flakes and powder. Grow it for dependable harvests and the authentic taste that turns everyday dishes into signature favorites.
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D.F.
Seeds look great and gorgeous colors. These glass gem seeds look healthy and a great value for the price. I will update you when I plant them on how many germinate.
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D.F.
Wow, what a pretty blue these seeds are. i can't wait to plant them and watch them grow. I will update you on how many germinate. The seeds look healthy.
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D.F.
Seeds look great 👍 and i haven't had a chance to plant any of them yet, but I will update you when I put them in a seed tray and see how many germinate.
